Machine Embroidery ThreadsPage 1

Thread Sizes

Mostmachineembroideryand sewingthreads arenumberedfrom size100 to 12,with alarger number indicating a smaller threadsize. Sewing threads used for garmentconstruction are usually size 50, whileembroidery designs are almost alwaysdigitized for size 40 thread. This means thatthe stitches in most embroidery designs arespaced so size 40 thread fills the designadequately without gaps or overlappingthreads.

When test-stitching reveals a design withstitches so tightly packed it feels stiff,stitching with a finer size 50 or 60 thread isone way to soften the design. On the otherhand, larger thread (size 30) can be used toincrease coverage in a motif. For example, awhite snowman stitched on black fabricmay appear gray because the fabric isvisible between threads; switching to alarger thread results in a more complete filland whiter appearance.

Threads larger than size 30 are not suitablefor most embroidery designs, unless thedesign size is increased to accommodatethe larger size, or the digitizer specificallyrecommends it.

Fiber Content

Machine embroidery threads are widelyavailable in rayon, polyester and cottonfibers. In deciding which to use, considercost and availability as well as the end useand care requirements of the project.

Rayon

Rayon was developed as an alternative tonatural silk. Rayon threads have the softsheen of silk and are available in anincredible range of colors, usually in size 40or 30. Because rayon is made from cellulose,it accepts dyes readily for color brilliance;unfortunately, it is also subject to fadingwith exposure to light or frequentlaundering. Choose rayon for projectswhere elegant appearance is the aim andgentle care is appropriate. Rayon thread isalso a good choice for machineembroidered quilting motifs.

Polyester

Polyester fibers are strong and durable.Their color range is similar to rayon threads,and they are easily substituted for rayon.Colorfastness and durability make polyesteran excellent choice for children's garmentsor other items that will be worn hardand/or washed often.

Cotton

Cotton machine embroidery thread is idealfor reproducing the appearance of handembroidery stitched with stranded floss.Cotton machine embroidery threads areusually size 50, but the thread's slightlyfuzzy finish compensates for its smaller size.Choose cotton threads for householdlinens, heirloom and cross stitch motifs, orany design where a matte finish isdesirable.

Combining and Substituting

Embroidery designs are usuallyaccompanied by lists of the hues thedigitizer envisioned for the designs. Theseare guidelines, not requirements, and it isperfectly acceptable to use different colorsto suit your taste or the needs of aparticular project.

17.110

With all the threads available for machine embroidery, how do you know which one tochoose? Consider the thread's size and fiber content as well as color, and for variety andfun, investigate specialty threads from metallic to glow-in-the-dark.

Machine Embroidery Threads

Page 2

Many color change lists are keyed to a specific threadbrand, with color numbers or brand-specific colornames for each step in the design. If you want toduplicate the original design appearance and have thesame thread brand, choose the exact threads specifiedby the digitizer. Using the specified colors can providean education in shading and combining colors.

As your embroidery thread collection grows, you maycombine thread brands or types within a single designto achieve subtle shading or an ideal color match.Because polyester and rayon threads have similarcharacteristics, they can be used interchangeably.

Thread charts from various manufacturers that providesmall swatches of each color are useful when selectingalternate threads. Charts with printed color samples arenot as reliable as those with actual thread samples.Printed charts are usually free while charts withswatches must be purchased, but the difference isworth the cost.

In browsing embroidery Web sites, you'll findconversion charts that list equivalent colors in severalthread brands. These can provide a starting point forcolor substitutions, but be aware that the charts varywidely in quality. Do not hesitate to make your ownchoices if a listed match seems inappropriate.

Computer software can be purchased to keep track ofyour threads, and to provide color-matching optionsacross brand name boundaries. Software also can beprogrammed to select threads already available in yourstash, or used to produce a shopping.

Specialty Threads

Variegated

In addition to solid-color embroidery threads, there arevariegated and multi-color versions in rayon, polyesterand cotton. These threads change to a different colorvalue or completely different hue every few inches.Stitching with variegated threads usually creates astriped fill or blocks of different colors along a row ofsatin stitches.

Other multi-hued threads are twisted from two differentcolor strands; for example, light brown with dark brownor black twisted with white. These threads stitch into aheathery, blended fill. They are wonderful for addingdimension and texture to large areas stitched with a

single thread. One variety, twisted from a solid-colorstrand and a variegated strand, produces satin stitcheswith a blended appearance rather than the stripes ofcolor produced by a variegated strand alone.

Metallic

Metallic thread is a category that encompassesiridescent and flat threads as well as yarns and corefilaments wrapped with metallic fiber. Different brandsand constructions create a variety of finishedappearances that flow through the machine'stensioning and thread delivery apparatus differently.For best results, experiment with different metallicthreads and always stitch a sample with the thread,fabric, stabilizer and needle you will use in the project.Embroidery, topstitching and metallic needles can beused, with the latter often yielding the best stitching.Try lowering the tension setting and reducing themachine speed so the metallic thread stretches less as itfollows the thread path to the fabric. Using a verticalspool pin reduces the twist added to the thread forbetter results on some machines.

Miscellaneous fibers

Special yarns for machine embroidery, combining wooland acrylic or other fibers, are used to stitch soft, fuzzymotifs. Because the yarn is thicker than size 40embroidery thread, it requires specially digitized motifsor designs that have been altered to allow room for theyarn. Try using the yarn for some design areas andregular embroidery threads for accents or details. Afterembroidering, the yarn can be combed with a wirebrush or toothbrush to create a furry finish for teddybears and similar motifs.

Other specialty threads for embroidery include glow-in-the-dark and solar-reactive threads. Glow-in-the-darkthreads absorb light energy and glow when the lightsare off, while solar-reactive threads change color indirect sunlight. Both thread types may appear white orvery pale in ordinary lighting; for a design with appealunder any lighting conditions, use color-changingthreads only in selected design areas. Some changeablethreads are thicker than size 40 embroidery thread, sobe sure to stitch a sample. Follow manufacturer's careinstructions to prolong the special characteristics ofnovelty threads.

17.110

11/06