National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar

Summer Internship Report

at

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd. Faridabad

A summer Internship Report for Partial fulfilment of the Requirement for the award of Degree in

Bachelor of Fashion Technology-Apparel Production

By-

Satyam Singh

Shrey Vij

Department of Fashion Technology

Batch 2008-2012

ACKNOWLDGEMENT

We would like to thank Ms. Ameesha Mehta, Course Coordinator, UG-Technology, and

our faculty mentor Mr. Pawan Godiawala, Department of Fashion Technology for their

guidance and motivation throughout the duration of this internship.

This work is not a sole endeavour but rather an integrated effort of many individuals

directed towards the same goal. We feel very much proud at underlining the

magnanimous qualities of Mr. Raman Bhutani, Assistant Production Manager, Shahi

Exports, Faridabad for showing affection, enthusing zeal, germinating interest and

inspiring hard work.

We would like to extend my gratitude to Mr. Sunil Jasso, GM Production, Mr.Pardeep

Singh, IE Manager, Mr. Ankur Joshi, Cutting Manager and all the employees of Shahi

Exports for showing great concern & interest in our work and guided us throughout the

internship. They have been a constant source of inspiration to us throughout the duration

of the internship, constantly monitoring the work at close quarters and throwing light on

minute technicalities. It would be appropriate to say that this work would not have seen

the light of the day, but for their painstaking and unstinted cooperation.

Satyam Singh

Shrey Vij

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SECTION- A

Company Overview

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INTRODUCTION

SHAHI Exports Pvt. Ltd. is engaged in the manufacture and export of readymade garments in

the International market. It is one of the largest export houses in India. The company started its

operations in the form of a small fabrication unit with the help of 25 machines.

The company has grown from leaps to bounds from a simple fabrication unit to present turnover

of Rs. 2200 crore, around 55000 employees and spread over 27 locations. It has manufacturing

units in six different states of India viz. Delhi, Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka

and Andhra Pradesh. The group is into manufacturing of a wide range of Men’s and Ladies wear

and also home products.

SHAHI group has all the modern units equipped with state-of-the-art technology giving the best

to its buyers.

Its manufacturing facilities includes Assembly line machines, Prima Vision system print/fabric

development, Meyer fusing press, Barudan and Tajima, Multi head computerized embroidery

machine, in house washing plant, automatic cutting machines (F.K. Systems).

SHAHI has a well-equipped sampling division where latest patterns/designs/styles of high stan-

dards are developed with the assistance of experienced designers.

It has a training center for tailors at Faridabad and Bangalore each to train and develop them into

vital human resource for efficient operations.

As regards to quality, SHAHI has been ranked one of the best in Asia by J.C.Penny, the world-

renowned departmental stores.

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COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Shahi Exports Private Limited

Established: 1974

Owner: Mrs. Sarla Ahuja

Managing Director: Mr. Harish Ahuja

Address: Industrial Plot-1, Sector 28 Faridabad, Haryana

Work Force: More than 30,000

Capacity: Over 2 million high quality garments per month

Retail House: At Last & Co. , New York

Fabric Processing: Sarla Fabrics, Ghaziabad

Annual Turnover: INR 2200 crore (Group Turnover)

COMPANY MISSION:

Exploring new dimensions of excellence. A path, where there was none. A new horizon beyond

yesterday. Excellence beyond today, touching tomorrow. It’s a world of relentless quest for

quality. Its mindset, the action, and partners of Shahi are ever reaching further, never resting on

achievements. Yes! Milestone never takes one there; it is the road that we create to reach

excellence. Ever evolving excellence. Shahi believes that its main strength is its people. The

larger investments made in the manufacturing units will give the desired results only if backed

by a committed human effort. The result will directly give us a sense of pride for being a part of

Shahi family.

CORPORATE VALUES

Guiding principles illuminate the path that leads to their destination. SHAHI emphasizes on

some guiding principles, which are indicative of the values it believes in and would like to

continue in the organization. These are the building blocks of the organizational culture. The

company believes in:

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High level of honesty and a sense of responsibility.

Two-way communication channel for all purposes of communication.

In sharing the fruit of growth, prosperity with its partners i.e. the employees.

In giving each individual room to contribute and grow.

The company firmly believes that team spirit is the hallmark of success.

KEY STRENGTHS

Shahi Exports Private Limited (Shahi) is one of the largest vertically integrated garment manufacturer and exporter in India.

India’s second largest apparel exporter by value of exports.

Shahi is one of the most successful professionally managed companies in India.

India’s largest exporter by installed capacity.

Well qualified trained and committed professionals with a shared vision.

Highly qualified Design team, Product development skills and a Design Studio.

High degree of adoption of advanced manufacturing technology MIS and IT systems.

All factories and offices are electronically linked to facilitate all time access to informa-tion

Focus on quality and a proven track record :

Short shipment: 0.50%

On time delivery: 98%

Quality claims: Nil.

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PRODUCT PROFILE:

The following are based and operated in NCR

1. LSD – Ladies Speciality Division

2. LBAD – Ladies branded Apparel Division

3. LFD – Ladies Fashion Division (basically caters to Wal-Mart)

4. HFD – Home Furnishing Division

MAJOR BUYERS

Tommy Hilfigher Armani Hugo Boss Liz Claiborn Abercrombie & Fitch (A &

F) J.C. Penny Kohls

Gap Target Wal-mart Calvin Klein Espirit Hennes & Mauritz (H &

M) Nautica

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COMPANY HEIRARCHY

(Fig 1)

Departments

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MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

A merchandiser is an interface between the buyer and the supplier who has to ensure the quality of

production and timely delivery. Merchandising is a process through which products are planned,

developed, executed and presented to the buyers. It includes directing and overseeing the

development of product line from start to finish.

ROLE OF THE DEPARTMENT

To look for the appropriate market

To get the samples made according to the buyer’s specification

To estimate and quote the cost of the garment to the buyer and negotiate with them

Getting orders

Constant interaction with the buyer for the approval

To get the fabric and trims in-house for bulk production

Co-ordinating with the PPC and production

OBJECTIVE OF MERCHANDISER

To create market

Understanding buyers’ requirements

Sourcing of materials, fabrics

Select the range

Creating the product

Taking buyers approvals

Negotiation with buyer

Procuring the orders

Materializing the order

Execution the order

Coordination between production and production planning department

Dispatching the shipment

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After shipment dispatching merchandiser is also responsible for buyer claims, profit and

subsequent orders. If buyer has any problem in quality of the product then it is the

responsibility of the merchandiser to resolve the problem with the buyer.

(Fig 1.1)

HIERARCHY

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Fig(1.2)

118

PROFIT CENTER HEAD, MARKETING

DIVISIONAL MARKETING MANAGER

MARKETING MANAGER

SENIOR MERCHANT

MERCHANT

JUNIOR MERCHANT

CO-ORDINATOR

PROCESS OF MERCHANDISING:

The first stage of merchandising is when buyer sends either spec, sketch or any garment

pieces and asks for sample with costing or only costing using different fabrics. The specs

sent by the buyer are also called Tech Packs.

The merchandiser gets the approval of all things like fabric, trims, label, costing etc. and

either buyer gives the approval or gives the vendors’ name.

-The allocation chart and FTP directory is received by the merchant from the buyer online.

-The fabric CAD is also received from the buyer which has all the details of the pantone

shade and the repeat size.

-The prints are developed from their own mill, SFL (Sarla Fabric Limited) or are

subcontracted.

-A CD is developed which has the color picture of the fabric. This is sent to the fabric

department for development.

-Sample piece is developed.

Next, costing is done on the basis of the spec, sketch and garment which are sent by the

buyer for making the sample. Merchandiser does the average costing/consumption of the

garment. The quotation is sent to the buyer/buying house and the approval is awaited. One

thing is to be noted that while giving the consumption, the cut-able width of the fabric to be

received (either mill made-developed in India or imported fabric) has to be considered

while costing. Also the marker utilization depends on the style, which may affect the

consumption greatly. The fabric characteristic also matters vis-à-vis nap etc.

The merchandiser monitors the design from sampling to production and then final dispatch.

They are a link between the buyer and the company. All correspondence that the buyer

wants to do regarding his style will be done through the merchandiser. Merchandiser

monitors the total sampling from development to the time the production sample is made

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and goods go into actual production.

They also see that the fabric is developed on time and send it for approval to the buyer and

subsequently if all samples are made on time, send them to the buyer for approval too.

They are also in constant touch with production to know the status of their styles.

Merchandising activities include:

1. To get order : Buyer directly communicates with the merchandiser in order to place the order.

Fixed buyers are allotted to merchandisers and the communication is between the buyer an that

particular merchant.

2. Costing: Costing of the garment in bulk is calculated on the basis of quality of material and

their requirement in the garment. It is one of the most important activities of the merchandiser.

To arrive at a perfect price to be quoted to the buyer, following points are taken into

consideration:

Costing is done considering these aspects of the cost.

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FIXED COST

1. Factory Cost - It is the fixed cost incurred for running the factory. It is different for

different floor.

2. Standard Sewing Cost

Direct Labour: Operators Salary

Indirect Material: Lubrication Oil, Needles , Cleaning Material

Indirect Labour: Staff & Maintenance Salary

Indirect Expenses: Power, Depreciation Of The Machinery

The standard sewing cost per operator per hour defined by Shahi for its Faridabad unit is

Rs 62.83

VARIABLE COST

1. YY (Yields/yards) – It is average consumption of the fabric. It is decided by preparing a

mini-marker which includes wastage of fabric due to laying, cutting, fabric defect, end cut-

ting loss, marker loss and the buffer that is maintained to avoid shortage in future.

2. Trims Cost – They are procured from local market as well as imported as per buyer’s re-

quirements.

Calculation of cost of fabric per garment

Calculation of cost of trims and threads

Cut-make cost

Poly bag cost

Cost of carton box

Calculation of consumption of fabric (yields per yard) and threads to

produce one garment

3. Sampling: Merchandiser is involved in coordinating with the sampling department. Based on

the mutual agreement between the merchant and the buyer, sampling department is involved in

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making samples. In every step of samples, buyer sends back comments along with the tech

pack.

4. Order confirmation: After the approval of all the samples, the order is confirmed by the

buyer. Merchandiser receives the PO sheet. Merchandising department communicates with

planning and production departments and decides for the possible PCD (production cut date)

for the required quantity. Then he fixes up the PCD and delivery date with the buyer.

5. Preparing the time and action plan: This is prepared by the merchant stating that all the

different activities associated with the order should be complete by the stipulated dates. It is

like making sub goals to accomplish the ultimate goal which is shipping of the order on the

pre- decided date.

6. Preparing the bill of material: This enlists all the different materials required for making the

garment.

7. Execution: Merchandising department communicates with the buyer QA during the

production. He gets the approval of the quality or any changes in the garment.

8. Shipment of goods: According to delivery date the goods are shipped on time.

Documentation department is informed about the delivery date, the quantity etc. In case of any

delay, goods are sent through air on the company’s cost.

For each order, the merchant has to prepare a file containing all the details and relevant documents

which is passed on to the subsequent stages in the production process for reference purposes.

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DOCUMENTATION IN MERCHANDISING

File prepared by merchant has following details:

Style Specification: contains a brief description of the style.

Style # : as mentioned by the buyer

Movex item # : Item number of the style by Movex

Buyer: Name of the buyer

PCD: Production cut date for the style

Merchant: Name of the merchant handling the style

The file contains the following:

Purchase order for the style

Garment techpack

Relevant communication with the buyer regarding proto, fit and pre production samples. All the comments from the buyer for various samples are included.

Thread consumption report

Fabric Test Report

Fabric and trim cards: Contains swatches of the fabric and trims to be used

Mini marker with costing average

FOLDER SUMMARY

It consists of the general details like brand name, buyer’s name, size range and the drawing of the

garment.

1. Color / Trim Page: It consists of the details like description, size of the trims like button

size, material of which it is made of, no. of holes that it should have.

2. Fabric Page: It consists of the details of the fabric like the count of the yarn, construction

(EPI, PPI) and color specifications. It also states the value addition finishes and

embellishments.

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3. Packing And Labeling Details: It consists of the details like type of packing, hanger type,

polybag type, clips type of labeling.

4. Label Placement: It describes with figures where the label, hang tag, spare button is to be

attached.

5. Correct Balance : Basic and important tips for correct fit

6. How to Measure: It shows how to measure the important dimensions of the garment.

7. Technical Sketch: It is a 2-D representation of the garment showing all the stitch lines,

panes, trims etc. symbolically.

8. Development Photos: It consists of the photos of the garment.

9. Specification Sheet: It consists of all the dimensions with tolerances and increments for

bigger sizes.

10. Bill Passing Reports: This is the report used in fabric receiving. It states details like type,

quantity, receipt no, item details, amount. It also has goods receipt note attached. It contains

fabric code, width, color, quantity, rate, value etc.

11. Feedback: The feedback comes in the form of comments and photographs of the garment

on the dummy with its errors highlighted like puckering and pinching.

12. Costing Sheet: Contains details like cost of fabric, trims, washing, embroidery, sampling,

testing, freight, duty, insurance etc.

13. Style Track Sheet: It is used to track the status of the order. It consists of details like style

no., merchant’s name, floor on which it is allocated, name of the floor manager.

14. Initial Marker Planning Sheet: It consists of fabric width, total pieces, pieces placed,

efficiency and length.

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15. Approval Form : Approvals can be for fabric, trims, slight errors which are acceptable to

the buyer

Workflow of the Merchandising Department

Fig(1.3)

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Buyer’s enquiry / Tech-pack

Costing

Style finalization

Purchase Order received

Fit approval process 1st fit

Fabric/Material approval 2nd fit

Fabric/Material order Pre production sample

Fabric/Material follow-up Size set

Fabric/Material in-house Production

Follow-up

Regular tracking and updating buyer

Order shipping

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

Sampling department is the most vital department of the organization. It is the department that de-

velops the samples thus enabling the Product Development. This department prepares samples on

the basis of the requirements of the buyer. The sampling department here caters to the need of all

the other units of Shahi as it was centralized.

Sampling was self sufficient as it had its own stitching. washing, trimming, spotting, and ironing

etc dedicated for the construction of samples only. The fabric and trims are sourced from the in

house warehouse depending upon the availability. The fabric which is sourced for the sampling

purpose is called yardage and is 25-30mts in length.

SAMPLING PROCESS :

The process of sampling goes through a series of sampling stages each of them are explained

below:

1. PROTO SAMPLE: It is the reflection of the first techpack received from the buyer. The

sample is sent to the buyer for the design approval. Proto sample is made in the base size. Styling

is important. The comments and second tech pack is sent back referring changes in the sample.

2. FIT SAMPLE: The comments are received regarding the shape, size and fullness. The sample

is checked for fit on body forms. It is made in exact fabric, though print maybe different,

since the drape and fit are to be checked.

3. SECOND FIT SAMPLE: It is similar to the first fit sample made with a few changes according

to comments received from the buyer. Again a third or fourth fit sample may be required to be

made. After approval of fit sample, order is confirmed along with all the specifications.

4. PRE-PRODUCTION/SEALER SAMPLE: This sample is known as the bible of production. It

is done for the base size of any one color and actual fabric and actual trims are used.

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5. SIZE-SET SAMPLE: The sample is made in actual fabric and trims in all sizes and is sent to

the buyer for approval.

6. GPT SAMPLE: These samples are made for garment testing for seam-slippage, tearing

strength, button pulling etc. it is the garment pack sample.

7. TOP (TOP OF PRODUCTION) SAMPLE: It is the best sample from first of bulk production.

8. SALESMAN SAMPLE: It is made for the buyer to find out the opinion of the store owners

whether the style would sell in the market or not, and the demand of that product.

WORKFLOW OF THE SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

Fig(1.4)

127Alteration (if any)

B/A, Riveting

Thread Trimming

Merchandiser orders for fabric Requisition

Patterns are made as per the PO

Raw material is issued on PO

Cutting

Embroidery (if any)

Sewing

Bar-tacking, B/H

Washing

MACHINERY DETAILS

The sampling department has 9 lines with different machines. For details refer (Appendix 1.1 and

Appendix 1.2)

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Ironing

Initial Checking

Spotting

Final Checking (according to PO)

Packing

Measurement Checking

Erudition:

The average FOB is $8-$10 .

The most complex stage is getting the approval from the buyer on fabric, shades, print and fit.

Since the lead time is less, therefore any delay at any stage can delay the entire order.

The operators in the sampling department are very experienced and highly skilled. They are explained the construction of any new sample by the pattern master and the supervisor.

IT plays a crucial role in the merchandising department. All information regarding the order status are fed into the ERP. This facilitates smooth flow in the department.

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ORDER ANALYSIS DEPARTMENT

The Order Analysis Department (OAD) acts as the bridge between the merchandising and the

production functions of the unit. This department gives technical support to the production team.

They do a complete analysis of the style from all possible perspectives. A research or analysis

plays an important role before manufacturing any product. The role of this department starts when

the all the fit and sealer samples for the style have been approved and the order is ready for bulk

production.

OAD receives two complete files containing all the details and documents from the concerned

merchant. Once the files are received by the department, they are checked for the following details:

Purchase Order (PO) – contains order quantity, colour and size ratio, destination,

delivery date etc

Product Style Details (PSD) – contains details about the fabric (count,

construction, colour), thread, labels, accessories, buttons, fusing etc.

Final mini marker (for interlinings as well if applicable)

Tech Pack (updated) – containing garment measurements with all the fit

comments by the buyer.

Sealed sample (buyer approved)

Embroidery design – with the placement and type of thread to be used

Swatches of fabric, fusing, threads etc

Operational breakdown of the style

Thread consumption report

Base patterns

Washing, ironing and packing instructions

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The department checks if all the documents are present in the files and are complete. Once this is

established, one file is sent to the Industrial Engineering Department and the other is kept in OAD

and worked upon.

FUNCTIONS

The following functions are carried out by the Order Analysis Department:

All the base patterns and the sealer sample are checked and the measurements are matched

with the specifications given by the buyer. It is also checked whether all the latest

comments related to the fit of the garment have been incorporated and the necessary

alterations are made to the patterns with the involvement of the merchant.

Size set patterns are developed according to the final corrected patterns. Size set samples

(two per size) are checked by OAD for measurements and construction.

OAD analyzes the fabric and what it demands while being used in manufacturing. The

impact of dyeing, processing and finishing on the fabric is considered, its shrinkage along

warp and weft is determined. Also it is determined if any special test should be done on the

fabric.

Complete analysis of the trims is carried out. Their compatibility with each other and more

importantly with the fabric is checked through tests.

A thorough study of seams and stitches of the sample is done. This helps in maintaining the

quality of the garment and in reduction of unwanted operations.

OAD determines the spreading and cutting details like mode of spreading, grain on which

patterns are to be cut etc

All the stitching details like the different stitches and seams to be used, SPI to be used are

determined.

Based on the size set development, all the critical quality points and instructions to the

operator and checkers are determined.

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Style Analysis Report

OAD prepares a report called the Style Analysis Report based on the studies carried out by them.

This is a 3-4 page report containing all the details which would be required by the subsequent

departments in a concise form so that they can be retrieved quickly and easily by anyone. This

report consists of details about the fabric, trims, spreading and cutting instructions, construction

details such as stitches and seams along with all seam diagrams, washing, ironing and packing

instructions and critical instructions to the sewing operators and quality checkers.

(Sample report attached in the appendix (Report 1)

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COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN DEPARTMENT

This department is centralized for all the NCR units of Shahi. Based on the nature of work, this

department is divided into four sections:

SECTIONS

Embroidery section: It makes the punch cards according to the design of embroidery. This

punch card is fed into a floppy which is inserted into the embroidery machine for it to un-

derstand the design.

In the remaining three sections, the software being used is OPTITEX

Pattern making section : Making the patterns using specification sheets and then checking

their fit on virtual dummies.

Grading section: Generally medium size patterns are developed and they are graded up to

the required number of sizes up and down.

Marker making section : Markers are made keeping in mind the following factors:

Mode of spreading

Width of the fabric available

Matching if required

Shrinkage along warp and weft

Size ratio required

The marker made is first taken out on the printer (miniature version markers). The

full size markers are printed through on the plotter. The computer aided design

department is also responsible for making mini for merchandiser for estimating the

costing average.

The usual marker efficiency achieved is 75%-85%

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Machinery details

Number of computer systems = 12

One digitizing screen for transferring manually made patterns into the system

One digital printing machine for printing prints on fabric for sampling purposes

Workforce

20 pattern masters

4 graders

2 digitizers

10 marker makers

6 staff members

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WORK PROCESS FLOW OF CAD

(Fig: 1.5)

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Receive spec sheets from merchant

Make pattern

Digitize pattern

Pattern correction

Pattern grading

Cut ratio planning

Output marker to plotter Output mini marker to printer

Send to cutting dept. for cutting Send to merchandiser for costing

Marker planning according to the cut ratio plan

Output to graphic plotter

Patterns sent to merchant for sampling

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL DEPARTMENT

This department has two parts: production planning and production control.

PRODUCTION PLANNING

The production planning department at Shahi Exports, Faridabad is a centralized planning

department for all the units in the NCR. So, primarily the planning of the following six units takes

place here:

Faridabad

Faridabad 2

Sarai

Okhla

A-5

E-10

The number of lines and number of machines per line in each of the six units are as follows:

(Table 1.1)

Unit Number of lines Machines/Line

Faridabad

LSD& HFD (all H&M and

Target orders executed here

only)

21 40

Faridabad 2 (LFD) 22 40

Sarai 9 33

Okhla 12 40

A-5 8 45

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The planning is done for all the lines of all the above units. While planning, they consider a

planned efficiency slab for the purpose of estimating output. This efficiency slab is based on the

order quantity and is as follows:

Style wise order quantity Efficiency to be considered:

(Table 1.2)

Style wise order quantity Efficiency to be considered

1500-3000 30%

3001-10000 40%

10001-20000 51%

20001-30000 58%

30001-50000 63%

More than 50000 65%

Based on this, they book the capacity for fulfilling the upcoming orders on time. The roles and responsibilities of the production planning people include:

Analyzing the available capacity and communicating to the merchandiser whether it will be

possible to complete a particular order on the delivery date quoted by the buyer.

To ensure that the lines are continuously fed and in case of sliding of orders, the orders

must be reshuffled so that the lines are never idle. In short, they are responsible for opti-

mum utilization of the available capacity.

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PRODUCTION CONTROL

For the purpose of production control, there are five teams in this department segregated buyer

wise. These people are responsible for the execution of order in the unit. The roles and

responsibilities of production control people are:

To supervise smooth execution of the order in the unit.

Organizing a pre-production meeting prior to production to discuss critical issues.

Complete fabric follow up with merchant and the fabric store.

Complete accessory follow up with merchant and sub store.

Supervising the entire production process to ensure timely execution of the order.

WORKING OF PPC-

A style sheet is received which has a style no., pictures, order quantity, and ex factory. This

is received by the product development department.

Next, unit is allocated i.e. it is determined in which factory unit, the particular style is going

to be made on basis of the order quantity. Also, the ex factory dates are decided.

A final chart is prepared and the PD team then divides the order quantity to the production

team.

A style number is decided upon. This number is used by the merchant to communicate with

buyer.

Production team specifies the item number and then the production structure is developed.

Final sample received from the buyer and PDS is updated.

Next, production team and the merchandiser prepares details about the item. i.e. trims,

thread etc.

Through movex, any item can be checked by the other department but cannot be altered.

Industrial engineering specifies the costing through the run through time. Thus the total

cost is achieved.

After the cost sheet is signed, ordering is done.

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The PCD (Planned Cut Date) is decided and 40% of all the materials should be enclosed by this

date. If the order quantity is less than 5000 pcs, the 100% of the materials should be enclosed.

7- 10 days before the planned cut date, 2 samples and 2 files are received sealed from the buyer.

Production File (It has details about the marker, tech pack, color of thread, trims, hanger,

specification sheets etc.) is given to the OAD (Order analysis department). The OAD checks the

patterns and other techniques. If it is approved, the garment is sealed and sent to the I.E.D.

DOCUMENTS MAINTAINED-

Daily production reports

Production File

Internal Movex reports

Conversion costs for units

Planned vs. HO reports

Production Variance Reports (PVR)

Erudition:

Proper feeding in the lines must be done

Follow up of the processes is very important

Regular flow of materials in a line must be maintained

No line must stay idle

Urgent orders can be given priority over others

All the raw material must arrive on time to meet the delivery dates

FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT

Sourcing of the fabric is the responsibility of this department. They source fabric for sampling as

well, except for Target and Walmart which have a separate sampling sourcing division. Unlike in

other industries, this department is segregated according to the areas from which the fabric is

purchased rather than being segregated buyer wise.

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DIVISIONS

CENTRAL SOURCING DIVISION: It is responsible for sourcing of greige fabric like

cambric, voile, poplin etc.

PROCESSING DIVISION: It is responsible for getting the greige fabric processed. It

works in coordination with the central sourcing division.

SALEM DIVISION: It is responsible for sourcing of yarn dyed fabrics. The checking of

yarn dyed fabrics is done at Salem only by an office of Shahi set up there before it is dis -

patched.

IMPORTS AND MILL MADE DIVISION: It is responsible for sourcing of imported

and mill made fabric (from Surat). Only finished fabric is imported. 90% of the fabric im-

ported is from China and 5% each from Korea and Pakistan. About 20-25% of the total fab-

ric is imported and for 60-70% of outhouse production, imported fabric is used. Outhouse

production facilities are available at Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. Fabrics that are imported

include:

Stretch fabrics

Linen and its blends

Silk and its blends

Bottom weight fabrics

Cotton, poly-spandex

Fine quality polyester etc.

Shahi has its own fabric dyeing and processing unit in Ghaziabad by the name of Sarla Fabric

Limited (earlier known by the name of Palm Prints). It is a vertically integrated unit with facilities

of weaving, dyeing, printing and finishing.

Approximately 40000 meter fabric is procured from here. However there are certain constraints:

Limited capacity.

Limitation on the colors and prints that Sarla Fabrics can do.

Fabrics like georgette etc. cannot be processed here as they do not have jet dyeing ma-

chines.

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Sometimes, greige fabric is purchased and then it is processed at Sarla Fabrics.

Shahi is renowned for making all shipments on time. One of the significant reasons for this is that

it has its own fabric unit where it can prioritize its work according to the need. Most of the

exporters face this problem of receiving the fabric late and hence facing delayed shipments.

(Fig 1.6)

Other sources

Automatic and power looms

Salem

Coimbatore

Erode

Mill made fabric

Vardhman

Arvind

Nahar

Shyam Tex

Ashima

SUPPLIERS

The main markets for fabric supply for Shahi are Delhi, Panipat, Amritsar, Salem, Mumbai.

Some of the fabric suppliers of Shahi ( for both sampling & Production) are:

141

Muthu Corp, Erode

Picanova fabrics pvt ltd, Mumbai

New Diamond Woollen mills, Amritsar

Mafatlal Industries Ltd, Nadia

Ramkumar Mills Pvt Ltd, Bangalore

Netflex India Pvt Ltd, Mumbai

Priyanka Fabrics, Salem

Bhuvana Fabrics, Erode

Vincord Textiles, Delhi

Vijai Fabric Connection, Erode

L.K Woollen & Silk Mills, Amritsar

A.P Khanna & Sons Pvt Ltd, New Delhi

Himgiri Textiles, Faridabad

Rajindra Handloom Pvt Ltd, Panipat

Shiv Shakti Furnishing Pvt Ltd

KCS Fabrics Pvt Ltd (handloom, jacquard upholstery & curtains)

Maurya’s, Delhi

Parkash textile Mills, New Delhi

Charu Enterprises, New Delhi

R.G Jindal & sons pvt Ltd.

The thread suppliers are:

Coats

Vardhaman

Pashupati

Oswal

Shahi has an in-house testing lab for measuring GSM, color fastness, rubbing fastness, Dimensional Stability, stretchability and testing others properties of fabrics

For labdips, strikeoffs and other approvals, fabrics are sent to testing laboratories like:

142

MTL

ITS-International Testing service

PROCESS FLOW FOR ORDERING OF FABRIC

(Fig 1.7)

Before placing an order, the sourcing department analyses all the vendors and selects the best one.

All the fabric purchases need an approval from the Managing Director before placing of the

order.

(Fig 1.8)

143

Development

- Buyer specifies fabric quality and specifications

- Requirements of designers

Quality selected

Approval of quality

(count, construction, look, hand feel) through lab dips, strike offs and desk looms

Fabric ordered

Take quotation and delivery from all vendors

Check past records for quality of vendors in case of similar prices

being offered

Price negotiations with selected vendor

Approval from MD

Order placed

LEAD TIMES

Based on the lead times for procurement of fabrics, it is decided whether it is feasible to complete

the order on time or not.

(Fig 1.9)

Greige fabric: If it is of regular quality like 60’s cambric or voile, it can directly be picked

from the market otherwise the average lead time in India is 40-45 days.

Processing of fabric: It takes around 10-20 days. So after purchase of greige fabric and its

processing, fabric is in house after about 50 days.

Yarn dyed fabrics: Yarn dyed fabrics have a lead time of about 30-40 days.

Mill made fabrics: Lead times are from 35-60 days.

Imported fabrics: If greige fabric is available then it takes 10-15 days (for processing) + 20

days (for clearances shipping etc.) and if greige fabric is unavailable, it takes 30-35 days +

20 days.

PURCHASE & LOGISTICS DEPARTMENT

The Purchase & Logistics Department is responsible for the sourcing of all the accessories

required by the company. This ranges from trims that go into the making of a garment to items

required for the general functioning of the unit.

144

Merchant places order to fabric sourcing

Production cut date (PCD) asked

According to PCD (on PCD, 40% fabric should be in house) and lead times, feasibility is decided

Divisions

Purchase : responsible for sourcing of the following accessories from domestic markets:

– Cartons

– Carton tapes

– Stationary

– Chemicals

– Fusing

– Elastics

– Thread

– Labels (domestic)

– Other daily requirement items

Logistics : responsible for the sourcing of the following:

– Buttons (both domestic and imported)

– Laces

– Tapes

– Sequins, beads etc from local markets

– Polybags

– All imported trims (hangers, labels, zippers etc)

145

WORKFLOW OF THE PURCHASE AND LOGISTICS

DEPARTMENT:

(Fig 1.10)

PROCESS :

All the requirements related to production department are taken into consideration. These

requirements are forwarded to the Purchase & Logistics department through MOVEX.

With the help of MOVEX it comes to know the requirements of the production department

and the order is placed accordingly.

The codes are generated against each order in MOVEX and according to these codes

requirements are generated.

Purchase & Logistics department checks the quantity of accessories in its previous record

to see if there is any balance. It then orders the remaining quantity.

The items are received by the Accessories Store.

146

Requirements sent by merchandiser

Requisition sent by the system

Items counter sourced, options submitted with prices

Items are approved by the merchandiser or by the buyer

Once the order is confirmed, options are chosen

buyerSourcing

buyerQuality, price and lead time play an important role in sourcing

buyer

The discounts received on the purchase are

Cash discounts

Bulk discounts

NON FABRIC STORE

Accessory Store of Shahi is centralized, for all fabrication units.

They have their main accessory store at the Faridabad Unit, from where accessories are

issued to all other units (substores).

Purchasing of Accessories is also centralized.

The accessory store is sometimes referred as Non-Fabric Store because it does not only

store accessories, but also various requirements like stationary, machines, spare parts,

grains, sugar, etc.

Basic procedure for receipt of goods at the accessories store is as follows:

(Fig 1.11)

147

Marketing prepares BOM (Bill of Materials) when order is finalized

The entries are fed in Movex

These entries are reflected in purchase

Sourcing is done on the basis of costing given by marketing

According to the delivery date material is sought (Average lead time is 45 day before PCD i.e. planned cut date)

Accessories are received at central accessory store.

PCT

Likewise, when need of other items arises, it is communicated to the purchase department which

places the order and the goods are then received at the non fabric store.

The central accessories store (non fabric store) has direct contact only with the sampling

department otherwise individual departments contact the sub-stores only and are not allowed any

direct contact with the central store.

Any of the accessories which fails to pass the quality checking is returned to the supplier. Also in

case excess trims are accessories are left over after their requirement is fulfilled, they are disposed

to suppliers or are sold at discounted prices.

148

PROCESS FLOW OF AT THE NON FABRIC STORE

(Fig 1.12)

149

Requirement of material arises

PCT

Challan issued

PCT

Supplier invoice received with the goods (bill +PO)

Random checking (visual) at gate by physical receiver and security

Checking of trims by quality checkers (Checked according to specification. Min 5% checked, 10%,

15%......100%)

System entry done in movex

Observations of quality checking maintained in material receipt cum

inspection report

Accessories stored in particular bin (location so that they are easy to track)

Material issued to substore

PCT

TESTING LABORATORY DEPARTMENT

Shahi has an in house testing laboratory where the following equipments are available for the

testing to be carried out:

Paramount Digi strength

Purpose: Finding the tensile strength of fabric. Also it is used for testing seam strength and

seam slippage.

Suitable for: Wovens only (Minimum sample size = 6” X 4”)

Capacity: 250 kg

UBIQUE Bursting strength tester

Purpose: Finding the tensile strength of fabric

Suitable for: Knits only

Capacity: 250 kg

FB push-pull scale

Purpose: It is a pull strength tester for determining the pulling strength of trims attached to

the garment

Suitable for: Trims like buttons, hooks, loops, snaps etc. Different types of grippers are

available for different purposes.

For example: The buttons must be able to withstand the recommended strength of pull for

about 10 seconds which is 15 pounds for garments meant for adults and 17 pounds for kids

wear.

Paramount tearing strength tester (as per ASTM D1424)

Purpose: It is used for determining the strength a fabric can withstand before tearing after

an initial cut has been introduced

Paramount Crockmeter

Purpose: It is used for determining the rubbing fastness of fabric.

150

Process: Bleached white fabric is mounted on the machine which is rubbed against the

darkest area of fabric for about ten cycles and the staining on the white fabric is measure

with the help of grayscale.

Digital Balance

Purpose: It is used to measure small amount of weights with precision for eg: yarn count,

gsm etc. It has a sensitivity of 0.0001g.

GSM sample cutter – Paramount

Purpose: It is used to cut a fabric sample with a fixed diameter i.e. 11.56 cm which is used

for measuring the gsm of the fabric. The sample cut (represents 0.01 metre square) is

weighed on the digital balance and the reading observed is multiplied by 100 to get the gsm

of the fabric.

Projection balance

Purpose: It is for finding the fibre content of the fabric. Different fibers have a particular

structure by which they can be identified.

PHAN pH meter

Purpose: It is used to find the pH of the fabric. Acceptable range of pH is 5-8. However the

acceptable range varies from buyer to buyer.

Process: 250 ml of water is boiled and 10 g sample is put in it. Boiling is further continued

for 10 minutes. The water is cooled to room temperature and sample is removed. pH meter

is dipped in this water and pH button is pressed. It then displays the pH. Wet processing is

redone in case pH is not within the prescribed range.

Hotplate

Purpose: It is for heating purposes.

IFB front loading washing machine

Purpose: It is for determining the response to washing for garments or fabrics. It helps in

testing the dimensional stability (shrinkage, extension).

151

Process: Washing cycles are introduced for garments for 45 minutes as per wash care

instructions and after that the sample is viewed for physical changes of color, size and

appearance. Multifiber cloth is attached to determine color fastness.

Paramount Launderometer

Purpose: It is used for washcare development. It is a stronger machine and is five times

more effective as compared to the IFB washing machine which is milder.

Paramount Digilight

Purpose: It is used for testing the light fastness property of the fabric/garment.

Hot air oven

Purpose: It is used for drying or calculating moisture regain etc

Lexus steam line steam iron

Purpose: It is used for pressing the fabrics swatches when calculating shrinkage.

A TRF form is to be filled and the sample is to be sent for testing to the lab. Fiber content,

GSM, Color fastness etc can be teated in-house only.

152

FABRIC STORE AND INSPECTION DEPARTMENT

Fabric store at Shahi, Faridabad is a centralized store for all units in the NCR.

When the fabric is sourced and brought to the company, they are stored in the factory’s

fabric storage area and it is the responsibility of fabric stores department.

From here, the fabric is taken for inspection and then stored in specific locations from

where it is issued for cutting.

The fabric is stored lot-wise.

Rolls of fabric that are of similar shade are kept together.

After the fabric sourcing department places order for fabric, the production fabric is

received by the fabric stores.

When the goods come in, supplier invoice is received. It has the following details: -

1. PO number

2. Number of rolls, color, length, width

3. Dispatch quantity

The goods are then offloaded and stored in receiving location.

The fabrics are then sent for inspection after which they are stored in separate racks

according to whether the fabric is accepted or rejected.

The rejected fabric is returned back to the supplier.

The accepted fabric is also stored in specific locations.

They are allotted a bin number and are stored accordingly so that they can be easily located

whenever required.

Also a bin card is maintained which has details of the fabric received, where it has been

issued, how much is issued and how much is left with the store.

After receiving, the fabric inspection is carried out. The fabric is checked 100% barring the

following situations in case of which it is checked only 10%:

1. If it is from some buyer nominated vendor.

2. If it is imported.

3. If it is from SFL. In this case, only 10% of fabric is checked because the fabric is

checked at Sarla Fabrics before it is dispatched.

153

DOCUMENTATION DONE DURING RECEIVING

ICR – Incoming Receiving

GRN – Goods Reeceiving Number

Bin no. – Place of storage like racks

Bin Card – It tells us about the detail of the fabric received, to whom which has been

issued, how much is issued and how much is left with the store.

Once the fabric is received, the quality department inspect the fabric for defects.

The fabric is checked 100% barring the following situations in case of which it is checked only

10%.

1. If it is from some buyer nominated vendor.

2. If it is imported.

3. If it comes from SFL.

(The fabric procured from SFL is checked 100% before it is dispatched.

On reaching Shahi, only 10% of it is checked.)

Erudition:

Fabric Inspection is very crucial.

Proper Lot separation must be done.

Center to selvedge is a major constraint for cutting.

The operators who do shade sorting undergo a hue eye-test.

WORKFLOW OF THE FABRIC STORE AND INSPECTION DEPARTMENT(Fig 1.13)

154

155

No

Yes

Fabric in-house in store

Uploaded in system by floor incharge

Goods Received Note provided by store incharge

Physical and technical counter check by goods received note

Report to DMM/Fabric sourcing department

Test by lab

Is fabric imported/mill made?

100% lotting 100% lotting

100% audit of each lots

10% random audit of each lot

Report consolidation

Report to DMM

Report accepted?

Uploaded in system

Report to fabric store

Uploaded in system

Return fabric to party

Ready to cut

Rejected

AcceptedYes

No

End

Start

YesNo

Report to fabric store

If acceptable

FABRIC INSPECTION

For the purpose of inspection of fabric, four point system is followed which allots different points

for different lengths of defects. The defects are marked by different stickers as shown in the

following table:

Table 1.3

Points Defect Sticker

1 0 to 3” Green

2 3 to 6” Yellow

3 6 to 9” Blue

4 9” to above (Full Width) Arrow sticker

Total points per 100 square yard are calculated. Different types of fabrics have different passing

points. They are as follows:

1 Grey fabric – 20 points/100 m

2 Powerloom fabric – 44 points/100 m

3 Imported/millmade fabric – 25 points/100 m

MACHINERIES:

The inspection is carried out manually as well as by machines. They have the following machines

for inspection:

12 tables to check the fabric manually with the provision of 4 tube-lights horizontal to the

table

2 automatic machines (RAMSONS) which had a provision of light at the base of surface

and on the top.

156

WORKFORCE

13 checkers

13 assistants

13 helpers

4 staff member

COMMON FABRIC DEFECTS WHICH OCCURRED IN THE FABRICS:-

Centre selvedge

Length wise color variation

Haziness

Patchiness

Stains

Color fly

Crease marks

Fold marks

Weaving defects

o Double pick

o Double end

o Broken end

o Missing end

o Slubs

o Thin place

o Thick place

o Neps

Chalk marks

Holes

Patta

157

Fabric Audit Procedure

Non denim

1. Receive the fabric from fabric store.

2. Compare the fabric with original/buyer approved swatch for design, shade etc.

3. Audit 10% Fabric in case of imported/millmade fabrics and 100% otherwise.

4. 4 points system is followed for marking of defects, which is as follows:

5. Colored stickers are used for defects of different points:

6. Mention the face & back of audited fabric with stickers on one swatch which is to be

attached to be given to cutting.

7. Prepare the shade band of printed & solid fabric.

8. Swatches of shade wise lots of every fabric that is being audited is shown to concerned

authorities.

9. If both fabric audit & lab audit reports are ok fabric will be issued to cutting.

Denim

1. 50 X 50 cm. Swatches are received by Q.A.D. through fabric store.

2. Marking is done by fabric store person with the help of templates.

3. After this marking, 10% to 15% swatches are cross checked for correct marking.

4. These swatches are sent for over locking & after that to washing dept.

5. On receiving swatches (which had been cross-checked for correct marking) is done with

the help of shrinkage scale.

6. After this, ironing shrinkage is also considered for the above mentioned swatches.

7. Acceptable shrinkage value are from 0/0 to –3/-3% (warp/weft)

8. No positive shrinkage value is acceptable in both warp/weft.

9. Swatches, which do not have shrinkage value between 0/0 to –3/-3 is sent for re-washing.

10. Re-washed swatches are again marked & rest of procedure as mentioned above is followed.

11. Finally those swatches which do not have shrinkage between 0/0 to –3/-3 even after re-

washing are rejected & reports carrying these roll numbers (rejected swatches) are

forwarded to concerned authorities.

158

FABRIC QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION REPORT

It is the inspection report of the fabric when it is received in Shahi.

It consists of supplier name, fabric code, meterage received, meterage inspected,

construction etc. it has the following details:

1) Bale no.

2) Meterage in stickers.

3) Actual meterage

4) Actual width (min, max)

5) E.P.I

6) P.P.I

7) Penalty points in Weaving faults

8) Penalty points in dyeing and printing faults

9) Penalty points in weft bars/ shade defects

10) Penalty points in stubs/stains/holes.

With this information it is decided whether the fabric it to be accepted or rejected, or if some

compensation is to be taken.

159

FABRIC A UDIT SOP

Received fabric from store with p.o no and grn no.

Cut 1 meter fabric from each lot/color for lab testing.

Cut 6” pieces across the width and fabric shading checked side to side and end to end.

Fabric checked as per 4 point system basis:

Points system:-

0” to 3” ------------------- 1 point – green sticker

3” to 6” ------------------- 2 point – yellow sticker

6” to 9” ------------------- 3 point – blue sticker

9” to above ---------- 4 point – arrow sticker any hole

-------------- 4 point – arrow sticker

Pass point per 100 meter:-

For greige fabric --------------------------- 20 point

For power loom fabric ----------------- 44 point

For mill made fabric --------------------- 25 point

Make the audit report and issue to cutting if audit and lab report are pass

Keep fabric swatches for reference.

Lot no. 100 shows rejection and red sticker put on reject fabric.

White sticker put on pass fabric and item no, roll qty,

Width, lot/shade no, roll no are marked on each sticker.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

160

The cutting department at SHAHI , Faridabad is a centralized cutting department for

all the units in the NCR.

Automating spreading and cutting facilities are available here.

After the confirmation of the order, merchant send two reference files containing all

details of the order to the order analysis department.

The OAD department, after studying the styles and making the style analysis report,

hands over one file to IED and other to cutting for production.

The Cutting floor of SHAHI Exports is one of the largest in India.

The Cutting floor is in the lower basement and includes the following departments:

The Fabric Store

Central Accessory Store

The Spreading & Cutting Area

The Fusing Area

The Bundling and Ticketing Area

The Computer Embroidery Department

Thread Cutting Area (for Embroidery)

Total Area: 16878sq ft.

161

WORKFLOW OF THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

(Fig 1.14)

162

Sample cutting

Fabric receiving from stores

Recording of fabric as per lot/shrinkage/width

File, sample received from OAD

Cutting approval

Cut order issue

Receiving of marker

Layering

Cutting (CAM/manual)

Checking

Numbering

Pass

Bundling

Quality audit

Dispatch to stitching unit

Embroidery (if required)

Fusing (if required)

Re-cutting (if required)

Technical Specifications (Appendix 1.3)

Machine Details (Appendix 1.4)

Workforce Details (Appendix 1.5)

Infrastructure Details (Appendix 1.6)

Marker making

The markers for the purpose of cutting are made by the CAD department. This marker is made

keeping in view the costing average quoted by the merchant to the buyer. In case patterns have

been made manually, the patterns are digitized to transfer them to the system and then a marker is

made.

In case of CAM cutting, marker is sent to the cutting floor in floppy and in case of manual cutting, actual

size marker is obtained through the plotter available. The specifications of the plotter available are:

Machine Model Make Number

Wind Jet Plotter Windjet/ Plo/ 180 Algotex 1

SPREADING

163

The spreading of the fabric was being done manually as well as using an automatic

spreader.

Brown paper was laid and taped before spreading for all fabrics in both types of spreading.

This was to protect the fabric from rough spots on the table surface. It also enabled the

spread to be moved as required (due to low friction) and also it prevented the lower plies

from distortion by straight knife while cutting.

Only one operator could carry out the spreading using the automatic spreader whereas three

operators were involved in manual spreading.

In manual spreading, one operator pulled the fabric from roll and the two others took this

fabric to the required length (of spread). On reaching the required length, they aligned the

edges and placed a weight on it. Both these operators return back and while balancing the

fabric and the third operator balance the fabric near the roll and in the end he cuts the fabric

with scissors or end cutter.

In automatic spreading, the spreader fixed the ply of fabric with the help of movable

catcher. Laying then started with the spreader smoothening the layer with the help of a stick

as he traveled on the traveler attached to the machine. The end cutter cut the fabric and

fixed end catcher caught the ends of the ply at the other end

During the spreading process, a layer chart was maintained which kept a track of meterage

consumed and end bits left. The spreading process is followed by placement of the marker

on the top ply.

To secure the marker on the lay, it was torn at different places and a tape was put there.

ERUDITION: Quality considerations for spreading

There were check points for inspection of spreading quality for the QCs where they check

spreading defects such as leaning, uneven tension, and misalignment of plies, bowing,

skewness, & fabric defects.

Fabric where stripe or check matching has to be done is done along the lines of the thread

which are tied exactly perpendicular to the table length.

For napped fabrics like corduroy, twill weave, denim, velvet, some prints & plaid, the

spreaders were instructed to take extra care while spreading and were spread manually.

164

In case of fabric defects, the fabrics were sent marked with stickers in colors contrasting to

the fabric color. If the defect was minor it was ignored. However in case of major defect

they remove the flaw.

In case shade variation within the roll, part with the varied shade was removed.

In case of narrow width fabrics, if the defect was within the roll, they aligned the selvedges

of one side while the other end across the width was left as it was. For too many inconsis-

tencies, the QC in charge was informed & according to the severity of the problem, CAD

marker of the shorter width was ordered.

CUTTING

Before the starting of the cutting process the marker setting was done.

The cutting of fabric was done manually as well as by machine (Computer Aided Manufac-

turing.

Manual cutting was done with a straight knife for all fabrics. For smaller parts like collars,

pockets, collar bands etc. blocks were cut which were then recut using a band knife. Two

cutters were involved in cutting a lay.

There was helper alongside who collected the waste bits of fabric in a bin in order to

prevent the floor from getting dirty and to create enough free movable space for the cutting

knife.

The cut parts were shifted & tied by a helper. The tied parts then collected in a polybag ,

and then they were sent for ticketing. These were later dispatched to the production floor

upstairs through a lift specially meant for carrying cut parts.

Drill machine is also used if marking like pocket marking on front is required.

In case of CAM cutting, since there is no marker on the cut parts, marking of parts prior to

cutting becomes essential to have a reference after cutting. Each part on the CAD marker

was torn off neatly from the centre to accommodate pasting of small stickers which had

info such as:

Job order Style Number No. Of plies Lot number Size Layer number

165

Emb number No. Of parts

2 air channels on the bottom side of the table surface along on the bottom side of the table

surface along with 112 air nozzles per square meter.

Five blow motors per table, each supplying air to a particular zone of the table

ERUDITION: Quality considerations for cutting

The QC compared the hard pattern to marker paper to ensure the accuracy of the marker. The

tolerance for this was nil.

The cut parts from top ply & the bottom ply were matched in order to see whether they had

been cut properly. The bottom ply sometimes got distorted due to constrained movement of the

knife. In such cases the plies were later cut with hand shears.

There was also a check for ragged or uneven cutting. The QC instructed the cutter to correct it

there & then.

The notch location was supposed to be checked by placing patterns over top ply. The tolerance

for this was +/- 1/8 of inch.

166

(Table 1.4)

Lot Size or Quality Being Audited1.5 A.Q.L.

Inspect Accept

Less than 151 8 0

151 – 280 8 0

281 – 500 32 1

501 – 1200 32 1

1201 – 3200 50 2

3201 – 10000 80 3

10001 – 35000 125 5

35001 – 150000 200 7

150001 – 500000 315 10

500001 and Above 500 14

DOCUMENTS USED

Requisition Slip: This was issued by the cutting Dept to the fabric stores specifying the

quantity of fabric they required for the Dept. It specified info such as:

Quantity in pieces

Ratio required

PO/Style.

Cutting Order : This document contained information about cutting order for a particular

style. It has information about item number, country, style number, delivery date, size,

color, and order quantity and fabric width.

167

CUTTING AUDIT PROCEDURE

Auditing procedure in cutting starts from the stage when the sample is given by production for

auditing.

Sample Audit

Following are the documents required for the sample audit.

Pattern

Original sample

Spec sheet

Style analysis

Lab test report of fabric

Fabric audit report

Patterns are checked as per the spec sheet and style analysis. Fabric audit report & lab test report

are analysed to foresee the problems that can come in any of the garment manufacturing process.

Cutting is checked as per the patterns. Pattern of all the sizes is checked to counter any errors in

grading.

Online auditing

When the layer is being layed fabric is inspected for any possible fabric defect that can af -

fect the appearance of the garment. Lab test report & fabric audit report is checked.

Parts of fabric with major defects are removed

While spreading check that there are no creases.

Check that layer length is 2 cms more than marker length

Check that fabric cuttable width is ½” more than marker width and lay height is as requires

layer height, width of layer & the marker width.

Marker is checked for missing part, direction of part, marker width as per the fabric width

& any other possible discrepancy.

Cutting quality is checked for the following defects.

168

o Measurements

o Miscut

o Check plies

o Check matching

o Rugged edges

o Weaving defects

o Selvedges

o Notches

Final auditing

First step in final auditing is to verify the bundle & the layer chart details compati -

bility.

Layer numbering is cross-checked & po, style is confirmed.

Cutting quality audit is done with the help of patterns, specs & original sample.

Checking of fabric flaws.

SYSTEMS FOLLOWED IN CUTTING

Marker checking before cutting.

Part changing of fabric flaw pieces during numbering.

Checking of cutting by production after numbering for bundling.

Cross- checking of weight variation by auditors.

Putting of main sticker on the layer before cutting.

Send product file to units along with first cutting.

Sending of fabric audit & lab test report to unit.

Sending of shade band to units.

BUNDLING AND TICKETING

169

Ticketing is done with the help of ticketing guns.

Tickets carry information regarding the lot no, layer no, ply no etc.

Ticketing is done manually.

Every bundle has a tag which contains the entire description of the garment.

In case of fabric when the ticket can not be stuck to the parts, extra space is left in the

pattern for ticketing purposes.

In case of cut parts going for embroidery or re-cutting, which require excessive hand-

ling, ticketing is done in with ink in empty area of the block.

The color of the sticker is according to the fabric shrinkage %, which is as follows:

(Table 1.5)

Shrinkage Percentage Sticker Color

0.5 White

1.0 Yellow

1.5 Blue

2.0 Pink

2.5 Green

3.0 Orange

3.5 Grey

4.0 Red

After ticketing is complete, cut parts go through an audit and finally are tied into

bundles of 20 pieces each

170

FUSING:

MACHINE DETAILS:

No. of Machines : 2

Make : Fiblon, Hashima

Voltage: 449 V, 3P 50/60 Hz

E/Power: 15 KwH

Pressure: 1-5 kg/cm³

FUSING USED:

Thick

KF- 36

KF- 79

KF- 546

KF-246

Light

FX-1008

NX-100 and FX-100 are available in different colors – black, charcoal, white and off white.

171

FLOW PROCESS FOR FUSING

(Fig 1.15)

172

Style Information as Production File

Mock Preparation of Fusing Sample

Mock Washing of Fusing Sample

Make Internal Test Report

Internal Test OK

Production Starts

Check Machine Parameters

If Correct

Continue Production

Audit Fused Parts

Is Audit Pass?

Issue to Dispatch

Reset Machine

Call Maintenance

Inform QA Executive

Inform All Concerned

100% Checking of Lot Again

Parts Replacement for Rejects

Yes

No

Yes

No

COMPUTERIZED EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT

The computer embroidery department is centralized. Shahi has largest embroidery facility in ASIA.

The manual embroidery is mainly outsourced.

The merchandiser takes the art work from the buyer

Pieces to be embroidered are first cut and ticketed and then they come for embroidery.

The cut pieces bear the lot number, size and serial number of that style so that after

embroidery it can be rearranged to avoid shade variation problems in the garment.

In case the panel to be embroidered is too small to fit into the frame, strips of fabric are

stitched around it to make it fit into the frame. This is done before the pieces are sent to

the CED.

The design is punched into a floppy by the CAD department which is the loaded on the

computerized embroidery machine. This is done using the WINGS software.

Stitching as well as embroidery threads are used which come from reputed

manufacturers like Vardhman and Coats.

For different types of patterns and different sizes of cut pieces, different sizes of frames

are used

Rough fabric is attached with the main fabric and some buffer is taken to save fabric

and to avoid puckering due to looseness.

173

COSTING-

It is done on the basis of the number of stitches. (approx 1Re per 1000 stitches)

For small logos the costing is done frame wise.

STITCHES-

E Stitch

Zig Zag

Lockstitch

Satin

Chain

Cross

Run

Depending on the style the stitches are done.

174

WORKFLOW OF THE EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT:

(Fig 1.16)

175

Machine room planning of machines

Design analysis

Bulk cutting receiving

Received embroidery swatch/ thread shade card & placement

Receiving trims and cutting

Sample making and OAD approval

Layer numbering

Parts sewing and patch cutting (if required)

Machine room loading

Framing

Machine running

Inline checking

MACHINERY DETAILS

176

Sorting

Thread cutting

Checking and alteration

Bundling

Quality audit Recheck

Dispatch

Pass

Fail

Make Model No. of m/c

machines

No. of heads Area

Barudan BENSH-YN18 20 20 30x60 cm2

Barudan BENSH-YN18 6 18 40x80 cm2

Multi head machine specifications

Number of needles per head = 9 (Therefore it can process 9 colors)

Distance b/w heads: 30 cm

Speed of machine = 750 rpm (average), 900 rpm (maximum)

Capacity: 5200 million stitches/ month

Stitches/hour: 20000-25000

Software used: WINGS

Some of the features of the machinery are listed below:

Top thread sensors Split pressure foot for easy threading Individual thread clamping system to hold thread in place to prevent pull outs Automatic thread/needle break detector Under head light Automatic colour change Automatic thread trimmer Built – in 3.5” disk drive Automatic speed control ensure optimum stitch quantity

Miscellaneous

Frames are used for holding the garment from all sides firmly so as to prevent the fabric

from going down with the needle or accumulating into folds. They are of different sizes and

shapes. They may be:

-Circular or

-Rectangular

Maximum Dimensions of design frame: 59cm x 25cm

Minimum dimensions of design frame: 7cm x 7cm

177

Bobbin used: IIGM, a franchisee of Barudan

Thread: Polyester trilobal, sometimes rayon, spun polyester (Vardhman, Madura Coats)

Backing: This is a non-woven layer to support the fabric so that it is able to bear the stress of em-

broidery.

Water soluble: It dissolves while ironing and steaming

Paper foam: It dissolves in a single wash.

Needles used: DBK X 5

Manufacturer: Groz Beckert, Bissel, Schmitz

Size: 8, 9 - for voile, cotton and poplin fabric

Size: 11- for corduroy fabric

Size: 14, 16- for denims

Sequence sizes: 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 7mm, 9mm. Most production feasible are 4mm and 5mm.

One advantage of the machine is its individual head controlling. If embroidery has left at some place then the embroidery program at a particular head can be rewound and executed until it reaches the state of other head. Then embroidery is recommended for all the heads together at the end of the embroidery the panels are passed through needle detector, as there is a high risk of needle breakage in embroidery machines.

WORKFORCE

One operator and framer each for one machine

1 supervisor for every 6 machines

EMBROIDERY AUDIT PROCEDURE

178

Online auditing

Following cross checks are performed by the quality auditor on the machines in computerized

embroidery.

-Cross-checking of blunt needle on the framing table

-Presence of embroidery design on the framing table.

-Cross-checking of the framing needle distance on the framing table.

-Cross-checking of the starting point of embroidery on machine for the conformance of the

placement correctness.

-Visual inspection of pieces on the machine for the detection & rectification of alteration thread

shade.

-Checking of the final pieces.

Final auditing

At this stage auditor inspects the units not only for all the defects, which were audited in online

audit, but also cross checks.

-Embroidery thread shades with approved shade card.

-Audit 10% of production pieces with reference to the approved swatch for the design &

placement.

-Audit of the pass pieces of the checkers for analyzing percentage of defects passed by the

checkers.

-Auditing of the numbering in the layer for any discrepancy. Fortnightly, audit of thread cutting in

embroidery is checked. At this stage auditor checks for numbering on the embroidery panels also.

179

Lot Size or Quality Being Audited1.5 A.Q.L.

Inspect Accept

Less than 151 8 0

151 – 280 8 0

281 – 500 32 1

501 – 1200 32 1

1201 – 3200 50 2

3201 – 10000 80 3

10001 – 35000 125 5

35001 – 150000 200 7

150001 – 500000 315 10

500001 and Above 500 14

DOCUMENTS MAINTAINED

Production charts that detail about time, style and the stitches.

Broken needle Report

WINGS software

It gives

Average thread Stitches Y/Y Physical check

180

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

Industrial engineering department is considered the backbone of any garment factory. It plays a

vital role in production of the garment. It involves all other production departments and is

responsible for monitoring performance of the same. It gives technical solutions to the

problems faced during the garment production. It is responsible for improving productivity and

efficiency of different departments

The Industrial Engineering Department, has been divided into two levels according to the functions performed. First is the PDS department which deals with product development stage. The other one is Floor I.E. which is concerned with production stage of the garment.

Functions of the PDS department are:

Calculating SAM from tech-pack

Calculating SAM from the sample

Preparing an operation bulletin by using oracle

PDS updating in ERP software

Making layout according to the OB

Suggesting changes to make the production of the garment easier

i.e. performing R&D

Deciding machines and manpower

Suggesting attachments and folders

Making Pitch diagrams

Functions of the Floor I.E. department are:

Planning review

Arrangement of folders and attachments

Arrangement of machine and manpower a/c to the style i.e. line setting and line balancing

Calculating manpower, efficiency

Setting production targets by helping the PPC Department

181

Carrying out regular time studies to check whether the planned SAM is being achieved or not.

Undertaking Motion studies & method

Monitoring production & providing solutions

Checking the hourly production

The formulae used in calculation are:

Productivity (per operator) Output / No. of operators used

Efficiency (SAM * Production / No. of operators used*480)*10

ERUDITION:

Line Balancing is very crucial to attain on time delivery.

WIP management is very important.

Folders and attachments must be used to increase efficiency

SAM calculation at PDS stage is crucial as it directly affects the costing.

DEPARTMENT WORKFLOW (Fig 1.17):

182

Revised O.B. prepared

Requirement of the machines & attachments is provided to maintenance department 5

days before loading

Line setting according to layoutLoading

Additional operations added

Merchandiser gives samples

Total SAM for costing purpose

Order approval

Sample arrives again to make O.B. & changes recommended

Target production is projected for next 5 days @ 12.5%, 25%, 35%, 45%, 55%

efficiencies respectively

3 days after loading the line, time study is performed

As per the time study, line balancing is done again

Method study is done simultaneously Critical operations are sorted out

183

SEWING DEPARTMENT

Sewing department can be termed as the heart and soul of any garment manufacturing unit. This

department is responsible for the conversion of cut panels into actual garments.

Shahi Exports, Faridabad has a floor set up comprising of 21 lines of around 40 machines

each.

The whole floor is divided into two sub floors, namely; floor A and floor B. The production

capacity of the floors is 2,50,000 units of garment per month.

When a new style comes over; the various information like operation breakdown, sewing details,

critical operations etc is put up on the display board. A sample of the garment is also put up in

front of the sewing line for any type of reference.

Line is set as per line layout plan.

Operations are assigned to the operators according to their skill set.

Required SPI, thread tension and needle no. is set by supervisors and mechanic as per

requirement.

Line in charge & supervisor give the direction to the operators about their respective jobs.

In line checkers and QC’s ensure that the quality coming out of each operation is as per the

quality specification.

Industrial Engineer do the study of operators and their respective operations again. If any

change is needed in the layout and working method for maintaining the quality and

production, immediate action is taken.

184

WORK FLOW OF THE SEWNG DEPARTMENT(Fig 1.18)

185

186

Pre Production Meeting

Size Set Approval

Pilot Run

Bulk Cutting

Lot Bundling in 20 Pieces

Production & QA Meeting

Operation Breakdown

Line Setting

Line Layout

Line Feeding

QUALITY ASSURANCE FOLLOWED ON THE STITCHING FLOOR

The bundles of 20 garment pieces each comes from the cutting department along with the

pattern, product file, product sample and fit sample.

Patterns are checked by a roaming QC ,QA or production technician

3 inline checkers (at each critical operation)

1 final checkers (checks for basic measurements, stitching faults, balancing problems-

100% checking)

Lots are made

Sent for auditing(2.5 AQL system followed by the auditor)

If defects found, sent back for 100% checking and alteration

187

Manual Operation

Sewing Process Machine Operation

Ironing Operation

Checking Process

Inline Checking 100%

Audit as per AQL 2.5

Finishing

Auditing

Final Checking 100%

(Table 1.6)

MEASUREMENT AUDIT AQL 2.5

LOT SIZE SAMPLE SIZE PASS FAIL

1 COLOR 20 1 2

2 COLOR 32 2 3

3 COLOR 50 3 4

4 COLOR 80 5 6

5 COLOR 80 5 6

>5 COLOR 125 7 8

Workforce Details (Appendix 1.7)

Machine details (Appendix 1.8)

188

DOCUMENTATION DONE DURING STITCHING

BROKEN NEEDLE MAINTENANCE RECORD

Replacement of broken needles is done by the feeder only. If any needle gets broken during the

sewing process and the tip of needle is not found, the garment is taken away from the line for

careful metal detection and the broken needle is submitted to maintenance department where one

person is specifically employed to maintain this record.

NEEDLE DISPOSAL LOG

It is used to keep the record of the no. of needle broken by a particular operator, on a particular

machine. The signature of the operator is taken against any such entry.

The idea of returning the deformed needle to get a new one from maintenance is really helpful in

ensuring the needle is not left in any of the garments. If the broken part is not detected by the

needle detector as well, that piece is discarded.

Date Time Order

No.

Operator Needle Found

(broken)

Reject ND/F ND/R Sign

Found : all needle parts are found and registered.

Rejected : all needle parts not found, product rejected.

ND/F : product checked by needle detector, all parts found and registered.

ND/R : product checked by needle detector, all parts not found, product discarded

189

MACHINE MAINTENANCE RECORD

Machine Maintenance card is put up on each and every machine. The machines are maintained

properly on weekly and monthly basis. An immediate corrective action is taken by maintenance

department in case of any type of breakdown. Every machine is cleaned and checked by the

operators before starting the work on machine.

On an average, each line has:

40 machines

8 tables

41 operators

10 helpers

2 supervisors

1 line charge

4 inline checkers

1 line QC

STYLE WISE SAM UTILIZED PER FLOOR

This report tells us the total SAM utilized per line, per style. It utilizes the following format.

Date: __/__/__ FLOOR:

S. NO. STYLE OUTPUT M/C SAM M/N SAM TOT SAM

1.

2.

3.

TOTAL

190

LINE FEED FORM

The feeder of the line maintains a regular record of the no. of pieces loaded per hour. It also

includes the batch no, size and grand total per day.This gives an idea of the no. of pieces of a

particular style fed per hour in a line. If we compare it with the hourly output of the line we can get

WIP of that line per hour or per day. It also helps us in identifying bottlenecks based on the

comparison of no. of pieces as input and that as of output.

PRODUCTION REPORT

This report tells us the no. of pieces from cutting, input pieces in the line, output from the line and

dispatched pieces.

Line

No.

Styl

e

No.

Order

Qty

Cutting Input Output Line

WIP

Dispatch

18 8899 6786 Today Cumm Today Cumm Today Cumm 967 Today Cumm

234 400 56 450 65 312 100 213

INLINE CHECK POINT REPORT

The format given to the inline quality checkers consisted of defects like stain, pencil mark, color

variation, wrong stitch, damage, bowing, weaving, puckering, wrong sized panels, improper

tension, run off, imbalance, joint out, center out, uneven stitch etc. To report any other defect

appropriate space is provided.

191

OPERATOR RECRUITMENT

Operator And Helper Recruitment Procedure

Operator Sewing Test

Operator and Helper Skill Test

Marks Allotment System

Format

Operator Sewing Test Standards

a. High Skill Operator: Should have knowledge of all the machines and should be

working @ 85% efficiency.

b. Senior Operator: Should know at least 2 machines and can perform four operations

@ 85% efficiency.

c. Operator: Should know 1 machine and can perform @ 75% efficiency.

SECTION CATEOGARY GRADE OPERATION

SEWING TAILORS A Attach collar and neck band

Should know all sewing machines and each operation should be done at

85% efficiency

Attach and top stitch sleeve

placket

Collar attach

Collar finish

Top stitch armhole

Kansai front placket attach

Pocket attach

Bottom hem

Feed of arm

192

SEWING TAILORS B Top stitch side seam

Should know at least 2 machines and 4 operations of each @ 85%

efficiency

Top stitch pocket flap

Back yoke attach

Join front and back

Side seam over lock

Hem sleeve

Hem left and right front

placket

Attach label on 4 sides

Run collar/cuff stitch

SEWING TAILORS C Top stitch yoke and back

Should know at least 1 machine and all operations of that machine @ 85%

efficiency

Top stitch shoulder

Hem pocket

Hem cuff

Make pleats

SEWING TAILORS D Attach loop label to body

Should know 1 machine and 1 operation @ 75% efficiency Make loops

Make pleats on sleeves

Bottom stay stitch

All parts stay stitch

193

Incentive Scheme

Incentives are an important part of any labor based organization. It helps boost the morale of

operators and gives them a reason to work. A fair incentive scheme can work wonders for the

organization.

In the following manner incentive was calculated:

The planned and actual efficiency for each style and each line is compared and the incentive

earned per line is calculated as per below:

For Actual Eff > Planned Eff

Up to 5% 20% of the gross saving

5%-10% 25% of the gross saving

10%-15% 30% of the gross saving

Above 15% 35% of the gross saving

Appropriate parameter is selected from the table and incentive amount is calculated using the

following formula:

194

(Rate of Incentive) x (Actual Runtime) x (Manpower Used)

WASHING DEPARTMENT

Shahi's washing department is capable of imparting different finishes such as: hard/caustic

wash, enzyme wash, acid wash, stone wash, bleaching, and softener wash.

The washing machines used are equipped for garment dyeing as well as normal washing. Thus

garment dyeing is also done when required. Dip-dyeing, tie-and-dye is also done here.

An Intranet challan is issued to the washing department by the dispatch department while

sending the pieces for washing.

The washing department issues a hand written challan upon returning the goods after washing.

The recipes for washing and dyeing etc are developed by the testing lab during the testing of the

fabric and then handed to the washing department.

The capacity of the washing department is 1800 kg/day.

RECIPES OF MOST COMMONLY USED WASHING TECHNIQUES:

Normal Wash:

Wetting, 20-20 mins, 40-45 C

Hydro

Tumble dry, 40-45 mins, 60 –70C

195

Enzyme Wash:

Desizing, 20mins, 50C, Desizing agent – 2.5% OWF

Rinse (2 cycles)

Maintain pH (4.5 – 5.5) by acetic acid

Enzyme wash, 30mins, 55-60 C, enzyme – 3.5% OWF

Bleach using hypo (if required to strip the color)

Rinse (2 cycles)

Neutralize with hypo crystal (sodium thio-sulphate) – 1% OWF, 10mins

Rinse (2 cycles)

Softener (silicon 0.7% + cationic 1.0%), 5mins running, 15 mins dip, 45-50 C

Hydro

196

Tumble dry, 60-70 C, 40-45mins

Softener, silicones, enzymes, anti-satin agents, neutralizers, lubricating agents, de-aerating agents,

water softener etc are other chemicals used in washing.

TYPES OF WASHING:

PERC or Dry Cleaning (DC) :

Every product is not subjected to PERC or DC process. Only those products which have stubborn

stains like that of oil and rust undergo this process. Mostly white or light coloured products that are

more vulnerable to staining are dry –cleaned. PERC gives them whiteness as well as shiny

appearance also.

Stone Wash:

This wash uses volcanic rock or pumice stones added during the washing of products to act as an

abradant. A more or less uniform and prominent fading is seen in this wash. The degree of fading

depends upon the product to stone ratio, washing time, size of stones and load of product. Rotary

type of drum is used for about 1-2 hrs. Generally, 1-2 kgs. of stones is used for 1kg of product. It is

usually carried out with enzyme wash.

Acid Wash:

Acid wash is done in a large rotating wooden cylinder filled with thermacol balls that are coated

with solution of HYPO, Zinc and Calcium. These balls rub against the fabric to give it an overall

grainy which is characteristic of denim. Size of ball depends upon the degree of required effect &

type of fabric (for e.g. for knit small size of ball is used while for denim large ones are added.) For

a mixed designer effect, different sizes of balls are used together. The process takes about 10-

15mins and is done at 35-40 oC. This process is also known by names like Moon Wash, Blat Wash,

and Ice Wash.

197

Spray Wash:

This wash is used to fade put the color randomly in from the garment which is hung over vertical

Penequins or pneumatic brushing robo balloons. Spray gun is used to spray KMnO4 to make out

the required design. KMnO4 oxidizes the dye from the applied area hence fading of color takes

place.

Hand Sanding (Scrapping):

It is done with the help of an abrader which scrap of the surface indigo dye from the fabric. This

process is used to create the different sharp line faded effects on the denim products using a mould.

The mould made according to design is put inside he product oh an inflated penequin (horizontal

or vertical). This raises the fabric surface such that it takes the shape engraved in the mould, which

can now be precisely rubbed with aluminum oxide paper manually. During this the fiber loss of

upper surface takes place and hence the required worn out design is created.

Grinder

Grinder is an innovative technique to give the denim a very prominent worn n torn out look by

carefully cutting away either the warp as the weft threads as per the need of the design.

Machinery Details (Appendix 1.9)

Capacity: 2000 kg/day

Shifts : 2 shifts /day

Types of Washes: Hard/Caustic wash, Enzyme wash, Acid wash, Stone wash, Bleaching Softener

washes etc.

198

An internal challan is issued by the dispatch department to the washing department when garments

are sent for washing. Garments after wash are returned along with a hand written challan.

WASHING WORK FLOW

Fig 1.19

QUALITY ASSURANCE

199

Enzyme Wash

Desizing

Detergent Wash

Bleaching

Neutralization

Softening

100% inspection of the washed garments takes place. Once the garments have been dried, they are

checked on the following aspects:

Color

Hand/feel

Measurements (to determine shrinkage)

Stains, etc

Since some variation in the shades is inevitable due to batch processing of garments, the garments

are separated into 3-4 shade lots during the inspection process according to recurring shade. If a

garment has a drastic change in shade, or shrinkage is outside expected range, it is not accepted

and may be reprocessed if possible.

200

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

The finishing floor at Shahi has been divided into five sections: floors A, B, C and D and HFD

(Home Furnishing Department finishing). These floors were almost similar in layout.

Capacity: 1200 pcs/day/floor

Shift : 8 hours

Manpower Status (Appendix 1.10)

Details per Floor (Appendix 1.11)

201

WORKFLOW OF THE FINISHING DEPARTMENT (Fig 1.20)

202

Kaj / Button marking (manually)

Receive goods from sewing

Bartacking

Button hole stitching

Washing

Button attaching

Thread Cutting

Thread suctioning

Ironing

Initial Checking

Alteration (if any)

Quality Audit

Measurement check (10%)

Final checking

Re-pressing

Shade matching

Folding and putting in poly bags

Tagging

Dispatching to packing section

PROCESSES

Size Sorting

Button and buttonhole position in a ladies top can be same for different sizes or different for

different sizes. So, if the button and buttonhole position is different for different sizes, then it is

necessary that the lot should be sorted as per the specified sizes. At this stage the bundles are done

away with and all the garments of a particular style are made into a single lot which may or may

not be sorted size wise. There are separate sorting tables for this purpose.

Buttonhole Marking

After the size sorting has been done, the garment pieces are brought to the Kaj marking tables. The

kaj marking is done with a white colored pencil using a cardboard template. A template has been

stuck near the edges of the marking tables with the help of a cello tape. This template helps in

marking the button hole position. Templates may be different for different sizes.

Buttonholing

The pieces on which kaj marking has been made are put in a plastic basket and brought in the

buttonholing section and buttonholes are made at the marked kaja position. An hourly production

record is maintained for each of these operators and to check the production and backlog.

Button Position Marking

Garment pieces are sent for button position marking after the buttonholing. There are separate

tables allocated for this purpose. The button position-marking worker picks up a garment and

aligns the two front plackets. The worker then places the shirt on the table and lifts the kaj placket

and taking kajs made as reference points, marks the position for button attaching. The position of

button is marked with the help of a white pencil.

Button Attaching

203

The button position has been marked and now the button are attached. Pieces from the button

position marking tables are brought to button attaching section and separated as per the kind of

button attaching stitch to be made. These separated pieces are sent to the respective machines.

Button attaching stitch is of two types namely lockstitch and chain stitch. Each of these stitches

could be further of two types namely cross and straight button stitch. The kind of stitch to be

provided is specified by the buyer.

An hourly production check is kept for the button-attaching operators. As soon as a particular P.O.

is received for button attaching, the machines are allocated for the purpose taking into

consideration the type of stitch required.

Thread Cutting

Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to

cut and trim the loose and uncut threads. As soon as button is attached the garments pieces are

brought to tables meant for the purpose of thread cutting.

Thread Suction

Loose thread hampers the presentation of the final packed garments. Hence, to remove these loose

threads the garments are fed into the thread suction machine. To operate this machine one person

holds the garment in the suction area and the loose cut threads are sucked in.

Ironing

Garments are sent for initial ironing after thread cutting. Seam ironing takes place.

Rough Checking

This section plays a very crucial role in ensuring the quality of end garment. Each quality checker

is provided stickers for marking defects, thread clippers etc. Each checker is instructed to check the

garments thoroughly, mark the defects with arrow stickers and also to cut the uncut threads if

found. Every checker puts the pass piece in the plastic basket below the inspection table. It is the

responsibility of the quality checker to take the defective pieces for correction and after correction

put it in the pass pieces basket. The defects found at this stage could be broadly of the following

types

204

a) Stitching defects

b) Stains

c) Weaving defects

d) Button/buttonholing defects

Checker puts his allotted number on each of the garment piece passed by him. Each checker is

monitored for performance. Every time a defective piece is found at a later stage, it is traced back

to the checker who passed it. This checker is then shown his mistake and taught the correct method

so that this is not repeated again. . All these checkers are given regular on-the-job training.

Finishing in charge or supervisors teach checkers the correct method of garment checking.

Alterations and Stain Removal

As soon as the quality checkers comes across a defect, he brings the defective piece to the

operators meant for the purpose of trouble shooting.

An hourly and daily record of the number of pieces altered is maintained. This helps in keeping a

track on the quality of garments being sent to finishing by the production floor. 20-30% is

normally the alteration and stain removal rate. In case of defects like button/buttonhole and

embroidery the pieces are taken back to the respective department.

The stain removal section has facility to remove the following type of stains: oil, yellow, black and

paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust, tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains.

Final Checking

In this section the overall look of the garment is seen. For the purpose of removal of stains detected

during this stage, each table is provided with a spot washing stain removal gun. Also, each table is

provided with thread clipper to cut the uncut threads. All the defective pieces are sent for alteration

and necessary corrections.

205

Final Ironing

The ironing supervisors analyze the style as per the critical instructions given in the OAD folder.

Based on the ironing instructions, instructions are given to the ironing operators about the correct

way of ironing the garments of a particular style. The hanging trolleys from where the garments

were retrieved for ironing and placed after ironing are ergonomically designed, keeping in mind

the ironing operator’s movement.

Tagging and Packing

The passed pieces are brought to the tagging and packing section on the hanging wheeled trolleys.

It is the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the tagging operators with the

appropriate price and brand ticket or tags. As soon as a new style arrives in the tagging section, the

packing supervisor places the necessary tags in the racks provided for this purpose. The tagging

operator is instructed as to where and how the tag has to be placed. The most important thing to be

kept in mind while placing the tag is to match the size mentioned on the main label and the size on

tag or ticket.

Quality Audit

A quality audit is done after the garment is finished. This is one of the most important steps. AQL

of 4 is followed.

206

AUDIT PROCEDURES

Pre Final Audit

After the garment is ironed and checked by the production checkers the lot is then offered to the

auditor for prefinal audit. Auditor picks up random units from the given lot as per AQL sample lot

size. If it is with in the acceptable limits of AQL then the lot is sent for packing and if the defected

pieces exceed the acceptable limit then the lot is sent for rework along with the defect

classification.

Visual audit chart

Table

Lot size Sample size 2.5 Accept0-280 13 0

281-500 20 1501-1200 32 21201-3200 50 33201-10000 80 510001-35000 125 735001-150000 200 10150001-500000 315 14

>500001 500 21

Fit audit

Fit audit is done at the finishing audit stage. In this audit auditor has to measure pieces of each size

of an order. The measurement going beyond the tolerance limit is then highlighted and corrective

action is taken on the same. (Refer format 13 of annexure)

Measurement audit chart

Lot size Sample size Pass Fail1 color 20 1 22 colors 32 2 33 colors 50 3 44 colors 80 5 65 colors 80 5 6

207

>5 colors 125 7 8

Packing audit

Packing audit is done based on the following chart:

Lot size Sample size Pass Fail3-15 3 0 116-25 5 0 126-50 8 0 151-90 13 0 191-150 20 0 1151-280 32 0 1281-500 50 0 1501-1200 80 0 1

>1201 125 0 1

SYSTEM FOLLOWED IN FINISHING

Audit at various stages of ironing, finishing, kaj-button, packing.

For new style initial pieces are studied in all respects along with product file.

All critical points are mentioned on QAD auditing table related to running style.

Feedback/communication to production on regular basis regarding problems in style.

Audit of packing quality.

FINAL AUDIT PROCEDURE

Final statistical audit is performed on a given number of randomly selected boxes from an

identifiable lot.

In final audit auditor selects number of boxes from identifiable lot to inspect. This selection

is based on the square root of the total lot offered for the inspection.

208

Auditor checks for accessories in a garment with the help of product file of that specified

style i.e. hang tag, main lable, wash care lable, button, hanger, sizers, polybag etc.

Auditor also checks carton marking, weight, dimensions, ratio & packing instruction.

All the final audits are done on AQL 4.0 if auditor finds the lot size with in the acceptable

limits of AQL then the complete lot is passed, otherwise in case of defect more than the

acceptable limits, the lot is sent for rework

Erudition:

Finishing is one of the most important departments where the final appearance of the

garment is achieved.

Loose threads are deterrent to business

It is better to remove as many unwanted threads at the sewing stage as possible

Proper carton packing needs to be done for avoiding problems in shipping

209

PACKAGING AND DISPATCH DEPARTMENT

As Shahi Faridabad is the corporate office, it plans and controls all the shipments of it styles in

NCR as well as its Bangalore and Hyderabad branches. The goods from Delhi – NCR Region are

sent from the Mumbai and Kolkata Port and of Bangalore Branch are sent from Chennai port.

PACKAGING

Packaging is the most crucial department product. The packaging has to be very good as it attracts

the customer. Thus the presentation to the customer is very crucial. Also the packaging department

is in a separate area so that there is no common access to it. The records maintained by this

department are essential as the loss of even one piece can cause a major problem.

Records of pieces received from various units which are issued to packaging include the following.

Fabric codes

Swatch codes

Delivery schedules

Records of number of pieces received from finishing department along with their style

number, ratio etc.

Records of pieces shipped along with date, quantity, ratio, mode of shipment, style no, PO

etc.

Each of the carton shipped is labeled with the following information printed on each:

Carton no. Buyer’s logo Company name Style no. Customer code PO No. Measurement of the carton Address of the buyer Date of Delivery

210

Weight Size ratio chart Country of origin

Every country has a different type of sticker. Thus stickers are put on the cartons depending on to

which country the order is going to. Packages containing the first sample, salesman sample, fabric

swatches etc are dispatched to buyers almost every alternate day.

DISPATCH

The responsibility of this department is to monitor the inflow and the outflow of the material to

and from the company. It does the work of receiving and issuing of the material.

Some of the records maintained by this department on the on line system are:

Checklist

Finishing pending

Records

Dispatch receipt

Dispatch issue

Documents which need to be carried by the driver of vehicle carrying company’s goods are:

Form – 31: It is required while crossing state borders. It carries driver’s name, description of

goods, quantity, issuing company’s name and date.

Challan: It carries the PO number, style number and number of pieces.

Stickers Put on the Cartons

Information regarding the carton are printed on a sticker which is then stuck on the carton so that it

can be identified. The information on the stickers was mentioned earlier.

211

DOCUMENTATION

Documentation department of Shahi is centralized for all the units in Delhi and NCR. This

department is divided in two parts namely export and import. The entire data relating to this

department is stored and backed up in a computer system. This department arranges document for

shipping the order on the date of shipment.

This department helps in custom clearance from the custom office following the rules made by

ministries of commerce and finance respectively.

Documents required for the shipment/export:

212

Shipping Bill

Custom Clearance

Certificate of

Origin of Goods

Marine Institute

Certificate of FOB

Invoice, duly

signed

Test Certificate of

Goods

Air Way Bill, if by

Air

Packing List

Purchase Order

Certificate

IEC Certificate

Letter of Credit

GR Form

AR4Form

213

Since Shahi is basically an export oriented unit, its responsibility grows manifold. Sometimes on

buyers’ demand company has to import fabric or trims.

Documents required for import:

Bill of Landing

Bill of Entry

Duty Exemption Certificate, if goods are duty free

Invoice, duly signed

Packing List, duly signed

IGM Certificate, if by air

Import License

Certificate of Origin of Goods

Marine Insurance Certificate, if FOB

Custom Clearance Certificate

Importer Declaration, duly signed

Letter of Credit

Goods Test Certificate

HUMAN RESOURCE

PERSONNEL

The Personnel department is centralized for all the units in Delhi and NCR. This department is

responsible for recruitment, training and deciding the organizational HR policies. It also takes care

of wages and salaries of all the employees.

The main functions of Personnel department are:

Manpower Planning

Recruitment

Induction

Training

Discipline

Sourcing

Salary

Administration

Motivation

Welfare Activities

Company gives the salary to its employees as follows:

Basic Salary + HRA + Annual Increment (announced every April) + ESI (employee state

insurance) + Conveyance Allowances + LTA + PF etc.

Crèche Facility

Shahi, looking at the need of its’ large women workforce has started crèche facility for their small

children. Crèche takes care of children’s food, learning and health.

Medicine Box

In Shahi Faridabad there are various medical boxes (first aid boxes), which are placed at different

locations in the unit, it is very useful as there are various small accidents happening in the industry

every now and then. These boxes are properly maintained and if some medicine is utilized it is

quickly replaced. A person who is responsible and whose work station is near the medical box is

made the incharge of the box, and the key to the box always lies with that person, he/she is

responsible to inform the concerned authorities if some medicine is used fully or expired. That

persons name, phone no and photograph is put on the medical box so that in the case of emergency

he/she could be immediately contacted.

List of the medicines in the box

1. Soframycin

2. Burnol

3. Moov

4. Disposable gloves

5. Eye wash cup

6. Gentamycin eye drops

7. Band-aid

8. Tape roll

9. Bandage

10. Cotton

11. Amrutanjan

12. Forceps

13. Scissors

14. Kidney tray

15. Savlon

TRAINING

Shahi has a very well designed training and recruitment programme designed by KSA

Technopak. Shahi believes in the policy of training their operators in house.

The training programme is for 15-25 days. After the completion the worker is sent to shop

floor in a line especially for trainees or newly trained operators. A full line of 21 machines is

dedicated for training in the sewing department

RECRUITMENT

For recruitment of the operators Shahi takes four tests (3 dexterity tests and 1 vision test). The

tests are:

Dexterity Test:

a. In this test the skill and concentration of the operator is tested. The test happens on a

pencil board. There are 96 pencils in four lines i.e. 24 in each line. The board is divided

into two sections. The applicant has to take out the pencils from the first section and

has to put them into second. The time limit for this test is 2.15 minutes.

b. Another dexterity test is also taken on the same board. Here the applicant has to take

the pencil out, turn it upside down and put it in another hole. The time limit for this

activity is 2.5 minutes.

c. The next test is ball test. A tray is divided into two sections along a small barrel. 25

marbles are placed on one section of the tray. The candidate needs to pick up the ball

one by one from a section, put it in the barrel top, catch it at the bottom and put it in

another section of tray. The time limit for this test is 2.0 minutes.

Vision Test:

This test is also called maze test. It comprise of two parts having 10 lines each. The ap -

plicant has to trace the numbered lines from one end of the maze to the other. The al -

lowed time for one part is 2.0 minutes.

If an applicant does 8 lines out of 10 successfully, he is selected.

217

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

TRAINING

After the applicant is selected, he or she undergoes an operator training programme that is for

15-25 days. It varies from person to person.

Training Process

a. On the first day the trainee is told about the sewing machine and its parts. Next

5-6 days are for paper exercise.

b. There are six paper exercises that the trainee has to do. These exercises are

mainly to help the trainees develop machine control and handling.

c. For the consecutive 3 days trainees undergo 19 fabric exercises.

d. These exercises involved 9 SNLS, 6 DNLS and 4 O/L machines. It aimed at

giving the trainee better control over fabric and operations like back tack and

bar tack.

e. After these exercises the operators are asked to stitch one complete shirt. Then

they are asked to sit on any machine according to task they can perform. They

are observed by the training supervisor. The time taken by the operators is

noted down

f. A form is filled for each of the operator, which tells about the operator’s skill

in different operations he or she can perform.

g. A graph (no. of days vs. different operations) is plotted for each operator and a

file is prepared which includes the detail of different exercises he has

performed, his skills in various operations and his performance evaluation

details etc.

h. The operator is then sent to the sewing floor in a line, specially designed for

new comers. The supervisor and the line in charge keenly observe the

performance of the operator.

i. The operator remains in this line for 30-45 days and then is made to sit in the

production line for the operations he can perform.

218

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

COMPLIANCES

There is a separate team which looked after the compliances requirement of various buyers,

they informed the buyer about the various practices, policies of the company and its

infrastructure. They used to supply buyer with relevant compliances related documents like

fire drill record, broken needle maintenance record, policy of child labor etc. They coordinated

with buyer on any query regarding the compliance fulfillment.

Certain rules of some buyers that compliance has to deal with and fulfill:

H&M HENNES & MAU RITZ AB Code of Conduct

It states its rules and compliances of H&M HENNES & MAURITZ AB, which includes

219

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

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SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

- 220

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SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

- 221

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SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

- 222

KOHL’S Safety

Requirements

for Men’s,

Women’s, &

Children’s

Wear

This brand has

some general rules

like

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

- 223

1) Fastener applications

2) General wearing apparel

flammability

3) Attachment strength

4) Nickel ( metal hardware should not

have any trace of nickel)

5) No sharp points or edges.

6) Zipper safety

224

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

This brand has defined rules for the entire above like, metal claw top/bottom stop zippers are not

allowed in garments were the claw is exposed.

LI & FUNG Factory Evaluation Guide Book

It includes LI & FUNG compliances like social compliances, technical compliances, country of origin

compliances, machine list, factory photo list, broken needle policy, broken needle record, sharp tools

control record etc.

225

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

ENTERPRISE RESOURCE PLANNING

The enterprise resource planning software used in Shahi Exports Private Limited is Movex. Earlier

Shahi used oracle based ERP software system to update and circulate the information. Now seeing the

increasing demand for quick management of information and data Shahi updated itself with the JAVA

based application MOVEX.

APPLICATION OF MOVEX

Resource and material planning: combines traditional resource planning solution for scope ,

terminology and theoretical benefits with innovative organizational solutions.

Product data management: stores and reuses information needed by various administrative

processes in manufacturing and distribution companies.

Project management: improves the project management in terms of dates, plan and different

other industries.

Financial control: handles all aspects of the controlling requirements so that one can analyze,

plan and display detailed management views of key business processes.

Manufacturing: combines flexibility and deep functionality with an ability to support a wide

range of different manufacturing environments and strategies.

Maintenance: provides an advanced maintenance application with extensive functionality

designed to support wide ranging business needs.

Financial management: is a flexible, internet enabled system that handles all aspects of

financial management and enables you to utilize the crucial information that drives today’s

business decisions.

BENEFITS OF MOVEX

It manages machines and financial assets for current and future business efficiencies.

Movex ERP contains a number of powerful tools for managing enterprise resources such as

human skill, machinery and equipment, financial status etc. It includes dynamic solution for

integrating global multi unit organizations using different currencies, languages, business

principles and legal aspects.

226

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Movex is seamlessly integrated with Movex Customer Relationship Management and Movex

Supply Chain Planning & Execution and thereby provides the ability to boost revenues through

increased timely sales and an efficient supply chain. In addition Movex provides an online way

of controlling financial situations which is a must in the economy prevailing.

Movex provides with a foundation to efficiently manage and control internal resources and

finances, thus allowing focusing on maximizing revenues and customer satisfaction. For

instance Movex Maintenance manages machinery and equipment assets to ensure that proactive

maintenance is carried out, which minimizes downtime cost and low product quality.

Another application, Financial Controlling and Management, enables to plan and follow up on

financial resources to support future business growth or change. Product Data Management

enables to share valuable information about products in processes such as sales, manufacturing

and planning.

INFRASTRUCTURE & PLANT LAY OUT

Shahi has 4 floors including the basement area.

There is an electronic lift (of OTIS) for mobility purpose.

227

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

The floors are categorized as :

-1 for basement

0 for ground floor

1 for 1st floor

While exit from the lift at basement first comes-

Sampling department

Then CAD

OAD

Cutting, Spreading, fusing & Computer Embroidery Department

Fabric & Accessory stores

At ground floor level comes-

Main reception & Lobby

Merchandising department (I)

Fabric, Accessory purchase department & Industrial Engineering department

Finishing & packing department.

Crèche

Finishing floor is categorized as Floor A, B, C & D.

Outside there is the Testing lab, ATM of citi bank.

At 1st floor comes-

Design cell

Showroom

Merchandising department (II)

Reception ( for telephone operators)

Personnel department, accounts, EDI, transport & all administration units

Canteen

Waiting rooms

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SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

At the top most floor is the production unit- Floor F1 & F2.From entry through the main gate, first

comes a temple maintained by Shahi, then, comes the parking areas for employees. There is a good

pollution free environment maintained at Shahi with lush green lawns, fountains etc maintained by the

Horticulture department.

Ladies & gents toilet are provided at every floor.

LAYOUT

FLOOR DEPARTMENT

BASEMENT

Sampling Department(Pattern Making,

Cutting, Stitching,Embroidery &Finishing),Sampling Fabric Store,

Sampling Accessories Store,Cad & Cam Department,

Quality Department,Multi Head Embroidery Machine,

Production Cutting & Spreading Machines,Fusing Machines, Stitching Department,Production Fabric Store & Trim Store.

GROUND FLOOR

Merchandising DepartmentHome Furnishing Showroom,

Design Room,Fabric Department,Trims Department,

Purchase Department,Planning Department,

Production Finishing & Packaging,Washing Department,

Dyeing Unit, Laboratory,Workers Canteen,

MOVEX Study Center,Conference Room.

1st FLOOR accounts department, billing department,design room,

documentation department,employees canteen.

HR department,IT department,

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SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

merchandising department,Owner’s room,

R&D department, call center,conference rooms,

showroom,

230

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Fig 1.21

231

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Fig 1.22

232

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

LAYOUT OF SECOND FLOOR(Fig 1.23):

233

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

LAYOUT OF THE CUTTING SECTION

Fig 1.24

234

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

235

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

LAYOUT OF THE FABRIC STORE AND INSPECTION SECTION (Fig 1.25)

LAYOUT OF FINISHING SECTION (Fig. 1.26):

236

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Fig. 1.27

237

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

SWOT ANALYSIS

Strength

Vertical Integration

Specialized units

Quality adherence

Introduction of ERP

Efficient planning Department

Weakness

Centralized cutting

Technological Advancement

Centralized Merchandising

Inefficient use of ERP

Opportunity

Infrastructure

Flexible Manufacturing

H R Department

Threat

International Competition

1. STRENGTH :

VERTICAL INTEGRATION: Shahi Export House Company started its operation way back in

1973. Earlier established in Delhi ( Okhla), now in Faridabad, Shahi stands vertically integrated

as one of the largest manufacturer/exporters in India offering ready-to-wear garments for ladies,

men and children. It

consists of units including the areas of Noida, Ranjitnagar, Gaziabad and in Bangalore. Though

all the units are in different areas of Delhi & surrounding areas, there is a smooth flow of work

between all the units. In total there are 18 integrated state-of-the art garment production centers

of Shahi. It has its own integrated unit of fabric mills, processing units, printing & dyeing,

embroidery, wash & finishes.

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

In the case of fabric capability Shahi has:

Integrated fabric base for both wovens and knits.

Both facilities equipped with German and Swiss state of the art processing Machines

which ensures a high level quality output

Sourcing office in China providing access to diverse fabric bases in the Far East

Sourcing relationship with all leading mills in India like Arvind, Morarjee, Ashima,

Vardhman and several independents in auto-loom sector.

Sarla Fabrics (Earlier called as Palmprint Textiles), the fabric process house is one of India’s

foremost wet processing plant. All kinds of woven fabrics like poplin, twill, canvas, gauge,

corduroy, chiffon, moss crepe, Rayon, Georgettes, Nets, Velvets, Cambric, satin, Bosky, lycra

etc are processed to international standards.

Prints like reactive, vat colour discharge on reactive grounds & pigments apart from some

special printing techniques like burnt out effects on polyester-cotton blends are achieved here. In

all, the unit produces about 90,000 mtrs of processed fabric per day.

This puts Shahi at the top compared to the other export house. It cuts down the lead-time &

prices.

Consistency: when a company is vertically integrated there is a lot of consistency in the

fabric. As from the yarn stage to the weaving stage medium remains one. Therefore there

is no involvement from outside. It eliminates the mediators, excluding the provisions of

wastages, transportation costs etc.

Lead times: when every procedure is done under one roof, it abolishes the time required

to transport the material from one place to another.

Reduced transportation cost: transporting a product from one place to another consumes

time & money. For any value added service like washes, sequins a company send the

fabric or garment to other locations but this is not a case with Shahi every thing is done in

house thus reducing transportation cost.

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Specialized units: Shahi has divided the Faridabad & Bangalore as woven & knits unit

respectively. By making the units specialized it has help the company in achieving better &

faster production. As the same work is repeated again, it helps staff to understand faster & better

which has lead to efficient utilization of resources & quality shipments.

QUALITY ADHERENCE: Shahi relates itself with quality. Quality department places checks

at all the required areas in all the production departments like, fabric department, cutting

department, sewing department, finishing & packaging department. Other than this Q.A’s are

also allotted for each specific brand within the organization. The Q.A department also takes

active part in the sampling as it is the base on which order comes.

Focus on quality and a proven track record

↔ Short shipment : 0.50%

↔ On time delivery : 98%

↔ Quality claims: Nil.

INTRODUCTION OF ERP – M3

The whole computerization system helps keep all the departments in link with each other. The

software used is used for almost every function & process-

Sampling

Costing

Order capturing (job order details, fabric, trims requirements)

Production (Cutting, stitching, finishing, packing, consignment delivery)

Shipment (boxes, box no., place)

Buyer’s PO entry (Invoicing & Billing)

Accounts/Finance (interlinking of bills, vouchers, payments, salary management, various

allowances)

Time Management (leave records, calculation of bonus, reimbursement amount etc)

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

The top management people can keep track of the status of production just by a single click. All

departments can keep in touch with each other and can know the status of orders.

Without this whole computerization system it would had been difficult for various departments

to interlink with each other.

EFFECIENT PLANNING DEPARTMENT - the planning department of the company has a

very good team of members which very carefully studies each garment. After the complete

analytical study of each garment the team makes different combinations of folders & attachments

in such a manner that it helps in faster & efficient production that too with minimal wastage of

time.

2. WEAKNESS

CENTRALIZED CUTTING : there is a centralized cutting in the head unit. Cutting for Delhi

NCR production units is done at the head unit. At times priority is given more to some orders

than that to the others. So, the cutting of the other orders is put to halt. At times when the

production units are short of cut pieces they have to wait for the cutting department to work on

their order, in turn wasting the time and delay in the production.

TECHNOLOGY: machines that are being used in the organization in the sewing department

even in the cutting department automatic spreader and cutting machines are very old and need

updation. Investment in the machinery is less.

TIME CONSUMPTION IN THE FINISHING DEPARTMENT

(SAMPLING) :

The sampling in Shahi has to go within 3 days of receiving the tech pack. The pattern making,

cutting & stitching is done within 2 days but the finishing department takes more than 1 day to

finish a garment. This at times becomes a messy situation. As the sampling department is too big

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

the finishing department & the workers are less compared thus a merchant has to always be

present when his/her garment is in finishing department. This affects the efficiency of the

company.

CENTRALISED MERCAHNDISING:

The production units are lacking of merchants to follow an order, all the work is handled and

taken care by the merchants in the Faridabad unit. At times it becomes too messy to track one

order as the merchant is sitting in Faridabad and giving instructions at Bangalore. This creates

confusion as the merchant in Faridabad is not aware of what is going in Bangalore. This

eventually increases the lead time as everything has to be sent to Faridabad merchants for

approval and then sent back. As the lot approval has to be sent to Faridabad after the approval it

is again sent to the production unit, this activity is very time consuming. Even the P.O. is made

by the merchant in Faridabad so if there is some shortage of fabric it has to be informed in

Faridabad after which again a P.O is raised after which only the fabric is generated.

INEFFICIENT USE OF ERP:

The merchants & DMMs are not using the ERP system MOVEX efficiently. The system is

capable of doing lots of things which can reduce the lead time and increase efficiency of an

order, but this is not done. The system is used just to generate the P.O which is a part of the ERP.

The merchandisers have not taken any classes for the same, they are working on hit & trial

method or learnt something from their seniors.

3. OPPORTUNITY

1) Developing excellent infrastructure on design to capture business from Domestic Importer &

China.

Active involvement of design with buyer’s design department.

CAD facilities to make new prints & yarn dye patterns.

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Digital printing to print directly from CAD

2) Worldwide sourcing of Fabric.

Product Development & Price Competitiveness on Imported Piece Goods.

3) Manufacturing more complicated garments

Focus on high fashion garments

More embellished & sequin work

Attract more European buyers

4) The HR department is efficient enough, it makes an effort to motivate its employees by

celebrating different festivals & days. It makes the working environment very comfortable &

light in such tremendous pressure. They also organize for training of its employees in different

fields as- self defense, fabrics etc. still the HR Department gives a lot of freedom to the workers

due to which the older operators sometimes neglect their work due to which it becomes difficult

for the production managers to handle them.

4. THREATS

1) International competition

China, which is the largest exporter, has substantially increased its market share. Countries

like Bangladesh and turkey are very cost effective. China excels in the industry because of

cheap labor, efficient management, higher productivity, government policies, strong research

and development and industrial base.

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

SECTION- B

PROJECT

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Project 1 : Reducing fabric wastage in the cutting Department

Cutting Department

Objective:

To reduce fabric wastage by implementing 100 percent width segregation. Make different markers for each width received.

Problems:

Although the width inspection was done 100 percent for the rolls but if in the middle of the roll the width changed further segregation was not been done.

Markers were being made only if the width varied by 2 inches which caused lot of fabric wastage.

Full use of the fabric widths to decrease the actual average was not being made.

End-cutters are not being used which causes the plies to be of varying lengths. This causes fabric wastage.

The actual average being calculated was a representation of all the widths therefore the profit or loss because of the width variation being received could not be tracked.

The slip on the rolls had the fabric width information and not the cuttable width.

At some places in layer charts roll numbers are not been mentioned.

When a roll is left over and is being used again the new metrage does not match with the left over metrage so we do not have any record of the difference.

The name of the left over roll should be updated in such a way so that it can be easily rec-ognized when being reused.

The calculation for the lay metrage, the difference and the balance is done manually by the operators who are finding difficulty in doing calculations.

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Suggestions:

100 percent width segregation.

Different markers for each width.

End cutters to be used which would reduce fabric wastage and also save time.

We have suggested a system of modifying the roll number if it is being reused. For eg. if the roll is of 200 meters and there is width variation in that roll so when its spread for the first time u upgrade the roll no as 75A and when its spread for the second time it is up-graded as 75B and so on.

It thus providing calculators would not only provide errors but will also save lot of time.

These suggestions were implemented in two styles.

M-409M-537

Methodology:

1)Measuring the width of each lay being spread.

2)Checking the lay length being written in lay slip is correct.

3)Developing a format for recording the following data:

Roll no

Roll metrage

Lay metrage

End bits

Left over

Difference

System Average

Actual average

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Can cut

Actual cut

Difference

Total cut

Variance

Summarizing the actual average width

Findings:

Item no: M-409

Order quantity: 36032

Fabric type: Nylon mesh

Fiber content: 100 percent polyester

Cost per meter: 135

System average: 0.98

Widths Received: 52”, 54”, 56”, 57”.

 Summary

WIDTHNO. OF ROLLS

LAY METERAGE QUANTITY

SYSTEM YY

ACTUAL YY VARIANCE%

             52 3 263.69 258 0.98 1.02 4.0854 28 2454.95 2425 0.98 1.01 3.0656 251 31267.98 32594 0.98 0.96 -2.0457 2.5 270.75 300 0.98 0.90 0 Total 284.5 34257.37 35577 0.98 0.96 -2.04

Width 52”

System YY: 0.98

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Actual YY: 1.02

Difference: 0.98-1.02 = -0.04

Total meters: -0.04*258=- 10.32 meters

Total Amount: -10.32*95.85= Rs-989

Width 54”

System YY: 0.98

Actual YY: 1.01

Difference: 0.98-1.01 =- 0.03

Total meters: -0.03*2425 =- 72.75 meters

Total Amount: -72.75*95.85 = Rs- 6973

Width 56”

System YY: 0.98

Actual YY: 0.96

Difference: 0.98-0.96 = 0.02

Total meters: 0.02*32594 = 651.88 Meters

Total Amount: 651.88*95.85 = Rs62482

Width 57”

System YY: 0.98

Actual YY: 0.90

Difference: 0.98-0.90 = 0.08

Total meters: 0.08*300 = 24 meters

Total Amount: 24*95.85 = Rs2300

Total savings for width 52”, 54”, 56”, 57”.

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

= 62482-989-6973+2300

Total savings = Rs. 56820

Findings:

Item no: M-537

Order quantity: 33325

Fabric type:

Fiber content:

Cost per meter: 84.6

System average: 1.85

Widths Received: 54”, 56”, 56.25”, 56.5”,57”.

 

SummaryWIDTH NO. OF ROLLS LAY METERAGE QUANTITY SYSTEM YY ACTUAL YY VARIANCE%

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

             54 1 6190.89 3499 1.85 1.77 -4.8656 294.5 38253.05 20475 1.85 1.87 1.0856.25 50 6190.89 3499 1.85 1.77 -3.7856.5 70 9209.29 5252 1.85 1.75 -5.457 11 1051.64 600 1.85 1.75 -5.4 Total 426.5 60895.763 33325 1.85 1.83 -1.08

Width 54”

System YY: 1.85

Actual YY: 1.78

Difference: 1.85-1.78 = 0.07

Total meters: 0.08*78=- 6.24 meters

Total Amount: 6.24*84.6=Rs 527

Width 56”

System YY: 1.85

Actual YY: 1.87

Difference: 1.85-1.87 = -0.02

Total meters: -0.02*20475=-409 meters

Total Amount: -409*84.6=Rs-34601.

Width 56.25”

System YY: 1.85

Actual YY: 1.77

Difference: 1.85-1.77 = 0.08

Total meters: 0.08*3499= 279.92 meters

Total Amount: 279.92*84.6=Rs 23681

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Width 56.5”

System YY: 1.85

Actual YY: 1.75

Difference: 1.85-1.75 = 0.10

Total meters: 0.10*5252= 525.2 meters

Total Amount: 525.2*84.6=Rs 44431

Width 57”

System YY: 1.85

Actual YY: 1.75

Difference: 1.85-1.75 = 0.10

Total meters: 0.10*600= 60 meters

Total Amount: 60*84.6=Rs 5076

Total Savings: = (527+23681+44431+5076)-(34601) = Rs. 39114

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Project 2 - In-house Audit in Cutting Section

Methodology

The workflow of the cutting section was observed over a period of 15 days. The actions

of the operators and managers, as well as the working conditions were noted. Previous reports

and records of the cutting department were studied. It was only then that these observations

and suggestions could be made.

Observations

Absence of floor level cutting plan:

Presently for daily cutting of approximately 20,000 - 25,000 pieces, no formal planning is

available with cutting section and whole process is running with verbal planning.

Table-wise Cutting Plan:

1. Day to day table wise working is not through planning, but as per situation & decided

on the spot i.e. man-dependent.

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

2. Based on monthly sewing plan received from central planning, cutting is performed but no document is available for day’s table-wise cutting plan.

3. Based on the requirement of stitching, cutting masters are informed about the pieces

to be cut for the day.

In the absence of floor level planning, masters start layering and cutting, wherever they find

vacant cutting table. Instances have been noted, wherein due to lack of planning, wastage of

man-hour and capacity were observed. This happens as teams of three are grouped in an

informal way. After every layering teams have to revert to the master for what to do next.

Need for supervisory control in layering for wastage reduction:

It was observed that there is absence of cross checking for the layer length actually laid by

layer man while layering, so that any mistake can be corrected at early stage. For laying

fabric layers, the concerned cutting master notes the layer length and other detail over the

layer chart. The layer man lays the fabric as per the length mentioned in the layer chart and

no supervisor/master checks the length, width and no of layers while layering.

Need for proper accountability - Unit-wise cutting control after clear table

authorization and capacity allocation :

For better control and fixing accountability of masters, it is required to have unit-wise

division of cutting capacity (Tables) and masters. Planning & control responsibilities of

cutting & cutting tables should also be divided unit wise.

Need for de-centralization of CAD:

Presently, CAD is responsible for preparation of costing, fabric, final and production markers.

Production/Cutting markers are prepared on the information provided by Cutting Section(i.e.

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Cutting master). The CAD prepares the Marker without confirming whether the

cutting master's requirement would lead to wastage or saving. This type of uncertainity can be

avoided by:

o Decentralization of CAD by shifting preparation of Production/Cutting marker

section under Cutting Section.

o Benchmark for Production Marker (Under Cutting Section) can be set based

on the average of the final marker prepared by CAD.

This system would be helpful in fixing the responsibility/accountability of deviations in

actual fabric average vis-a-vis average initially recommended for fabric procurement.

Need for more Auto End Cutter machines - Avoiding Avoidable Daily Fabric

Wastage (500 m per day ):

It has been observed that while cutting the fabric by pulling it by hand or by scissors, on an

average 4-6 cm of fabric is wasted per layer. If calculated for 20,000 pieces daily cutting

with 2 piece marker, i.e for 10,000 layers, daily avoidable wastage of fabric comes to a

whooping 500 m. (approx. 13,000 m in a month or 1,56,000 m in a year)

The reduction in wastage of 4-6cm can be achieved by installing Fabric End Cutters at each

table, which are currently installed only on Fusing cutting tables.

Improper storage of end pieces - Wastage of man hours/productivity:

Storage of various sized end pieces is improperly done. Most of the time, cutting

personnel are observed to be searching the end pieces bale, whenever required.

Proper storage of stock & its availability in system will enable proper planning.

With the result, fresh fabric would be issued only after the efficient utililization of end pieces.

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Loss of Production Hours Due to Poor Maintenance:

As confirmed by Cutting Section, due to poor maintenance, most of the time, CAM,

Spreader and Fusing machines are on break-down. Out of 30 days, CAM is normally on

break-down for 10 days also the machine can not be used for more than 8 hours. Each

month CAM cuts around 10,000 pieces only and rest of the cutting is done by manual

cutting machine. Cutting capacity can be increased by properly repairing CAM and replacing

damaged parts.

There is a problem of spares for Hand Cutting machines.

Loss of man-hour:

The embroidery thread cutting section lies in between the numbering section and small

bundling section. So there is wastage of man hours to shift pieces from one place to another.

For material (cut pcs & cutting wastages) transfer on floor, movable light weight trolleys and

roller dustbins can be used as these are easy to handle. Dragging pieces in polythene on floor

and easy to handle heavy trolleys for trash & kattran are also used.

There is lot of movement in bundling section for ticketing and small bundle making.

Suggestions

Cutting & layer chart preparation – These two activities should be under one person.

Cutting section is in need of mechanization (two way spreading machine) and computerization.

Need for computerization of layer chart layer wise.

Need for fabric inspection data with fabric layering

This will ensure setting of standard number of plies for particular type of fabric and

its compliance. Actual fabric width, marker width and any mismatch will be revealed.

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Section C

Appendix

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

APPENDIX-1

(Machine and workforce details)

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Appendix 1.1 : MACHINERY DETAILS(SAMPLING)

Operation Machine type Total number

Pattern making Tables 4

Cutting Tables 11

Sewing Lockstitch machines 172

Sewing Feed off the arm 2

Sewing Kansai 1

Sewing Kansai designing 1

Sewing Pickstitch 1

Sewing Flatlock 3

Sewing DNLS 1

Sewing Chainstitch machines 1 single needle + 1 double needle

Sewing Overlock machines 11

Sewing Picotting 1

Sewing Blind stitch 1

Sewing Snap button 2

Sewing Fagotting 2

Sewing Embroidery 21

Sewing Baby overlock 1

Sewing Keyhole machine 1

Sewing Bartack machine 1

Sewing Buttonhole machine 2

Sewing Button attaching machine 2

Sewing Zig zag embroidery 1

Sewing Fusing machine 1

Sewing Riveting 1

Sewing Blanket stitching 1

Handwork Table 4

Finishing Ironing table 6

Finishing Thread trimming table 1

Quality Checking Tables 6

Packing Table 1

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Appendix 1.2 : LINE-WISE MACHINERY DETAILS(SAMPLING)

Line Machinery

Line 1

1 Chainstitch button attach + 2 Lockstitch button attach

+ 1 Bartack + 1 Normal buttonhole + 1 Riveting

+ 1 Eyelet buttonhole + 2 SNLS (alterations)

+ 1 Snap button attach

Line 2 19 SNLS + 2 5-T O/L

Line 3 18 SNLS + 1 5-T O/L + 1 SNCS + 1 DNLS

Line 4 19 SNLS + 1 5-T O/L

Line 5 14 SNLS + 1 5-T O/L + 1 Flatlock + 1 6-T Picoting

Line 6 14 SNLS + 1 5-T O/L + 1 DNCS + 1 SNCS + 1 2-T O/L

Line 7 15 SNLS + 2 Smocking + 1 5-T O/L

Line 8 14 SNLS + 1 5-T O/L

Pattern Making

Line A – 8 table

Line B – 7 table

1 Transfer table (White pattern paper to brown pattern paper)

Dimensions: 72” X 48” X 41”

Cutting

8 Sample table + 1 Mock table

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Dimensions: 94.5” X 49” X 37”

Hand work 4 table

Embroidery 23 Hand embroidery + 1 Blind hemming + 1 DNLS

Thread

trimming1 table

Quality

checking6 table

Finishing 6 Ironing table + 1 Spot cleaning table

Packing 1 table

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Appendix 1.3 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS(CUTTING DPT.)

DRILLER

Current – 1.3 amp

Volts – 220

Cycle – 50 per second

Motor Phase – I

STRAIGHT KNIFE

Blade - 8” long & 1.25” wide

Current – 4.2 amp

Volts – 220

Cycle – 50 per second

RPM – 2850 (Strokes per minute)

Motor Phase – I

CAM CUTTER

Actual cutting area 2m/2m

Actual suction area 2.1m/2.1m

Actual vacuum strength 150 milibar (maximum)

Single bristle diameter 1.3 mm

Bristle length 40 mm

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

No. Of bristle in one replaceable unit 17 * 17=289

Area of bristle unit that can be replaced 51.3 mm X 50.64 mm

Maximum layer width after compression 7.5 cm

Cutting speed 0 – 40 m/min

Blade sharpening frequency 2.5 – 3 m (of cutting)

Blade Single edge

Drilling Yes

Hot drill Yes

Hot notch No

Bristle conveyor movement while cutting Yes

Bristle conveyor speed 19 m /min

3 phase power unit 380 volt , 50 hz

Current with a full load 62.5 A

Current of maximum load 35 A

Installed power (including suction fans) 25 kw

Pneumatic feed 150 l min at 8 bar

Cooling unit 540 l min at 8 bar

In board computer 4 MB RAM, 66 MHz

Hard disk memory 850 MB

Working temperature 10 - 30°

RS 232 online connection with cad system Yes

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Optional network connection Yes

Maximum speed of unloading conveyor 48 m/ min

Notch depth 2 – 6 mm

AUTOMATIC SPREADER

Length of the spreading table 40 m

Width of the spreading table 72”

Height of the spreading table 36”

Table top type Smooth, card board type

Number of clamps 14

2 air channels on the bottom side of the table surface along on the bottom side of the table

surface along with 112 air nozzles per square meter.

Five blow motors per table, each supplying air to a particular zone of the table.

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

S.NO MACHINE MODEL MAKE NO

1. Fusing machine HP-450 MS Hashima 1

2 Cam machine TP3002, FTR 200/200 F.K.Systema (Tukatech) 1

3 Straight Knife Machine 620 X, 2YK119-5 Blue Streak II (Eastman) 12

4 Spreading table Locally made -- 18

5 Spreading Machine Automatic CO SX F.K.Arna, TukaTech 2

6 Recutting table Locally made -- 2

7 Band Knife Machine 11636, STV Wastema International 1

8 Fusing Machine (Flat

Continuous)

HP 1000 ED Hashima 1

9 Die Cutting MF 9.5 Ngaishing 1

10 End cutters - - 2

11 Driller - Eastman 1

12 Sticker Gun - - 30

Appendix 1.4: MACHINERY DETAILS(CUTTING DPT)

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Appendix 1.5: WORKFORCE OF THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

Cutting manager 1

Cutting senior executive 1

Industrial engineer 3

Cutting junior executive 3

Quality controller 4

Computer operator 2

Cutting incharge 1

Cutting masters 1

Supervisors 7

Cutters 10

Fusing cutters 2

Helpers 10

CAM operators 2

Pattern sampling incharge 1

Pattern sampling master 1

Sampling manual cutter 2

Fusing incharge 1

Re-cutting incharge 2

Fabric 10

Layerman 33

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Re-cutting 15

Dispatch 10

Numbering in-charge 1

Numbering 35

Fusing 39

Bundling 11

Marker & sticker 5

Sampling helper 2

Peon 2

Feeder 2

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Appendix 1.6: INFRASTRUCTURE DETAILS OF THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

Table No. Details

1,2 Width: 64”

Length: 462”

Height: 34”

3,4,5 Width: 60”

Length: 714”

Height: 34”

6 Width: 59”

Length: 836”

Height: 34”

7,8,9 Width: 59”

Length: 187”

Height: 34”

10,11 Width: 62”

Length: 418”

Height: 34”

14 Width: 54”

Length: 242”

Height: 34”

15,16 Width: 72.5”

Length: 1562”

Height: 34”

17,18 Width: 72.5”

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Extendable width (28” on both sides( i.e. 56”))

Length: 1232”

Height: 34”

19 Width: 62”

Length: 418”

Height: 34”

Re-cutting tables (12,13) Width: 62”

Length: 836”

Height: 34”

HFD Cutting Tables

(4 tables)

Width: 72.5”

Length: 1562”

Height: 34”

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Appendix 1.7 WORKFORCE(SEWING DPT)

S. NO. WORK TYPE PRESENT

1 Manager 2

2 Executive 4

3 Operator 882

4 Hand Operator 252

5 Inline Checker 63

6 Final Checker 42

7 SPI Checker 2

8 QC 21

9 Dispatcher 16

10 Production Writer (IE) 11

11 Computer Operator 4

12 Junior Engineer 4

13 Supervisor 21

14 Line In charge 21

15 Floor In charge 4

16 Writer 2

17 Feeder 21

18 Needle Stock 2

19 Mechanic 3

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

20 Electrician 2

21 Medical 1

TOTAL 1380

Appendix 1.8 MACHINE DETAILS(SEWING FLOOR)

S.

NO.

TYPE OF MACHINE MAKE MODEL NO. QUANTITY

1. Snls Brother Db2b101cm 72

2. Snls (ubt) Brother Db2b201ebten 16

3. Snls Brother Db2b736cn 72

4. Snls (edge cutter) Brother Db2b777eccn 2

5. Snls (with thread trim) Brother Sl73740330md602 96

6. Snls (with thread trim) Brother Sl737md602f401 3

7. Snls (needle feed) Brother Sn-7210-3 23

8. Snls Juki Ddn5530ncn 214

9. Snls Juki Ddn5550-3ubt 119

10. Snls Juki Ddn5550-ubtemc3 8

11. Snls Juki Dlm5200cm 54

12. Snls Juki Dln5410ubtem 32

13. Snls Siruba L818f-m1 53

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

14. Sncs Juki Mh481 5

15. Dnls Brother Lt2-b842scm ¼” 1

16. Dnls Brother Lt2-b845-3scm 1

17. Dnls Juki Lh3168sf 3

18. Dnls Juki Lh3128cm- ¼” 5

19. Dnls Juki Lh3168cm- ¼” 26

20. Dnls Juki Lh3168ubtem- ¼” 22

21. Bartack Brother Ke51430c-01-s 2

22. Bartack Brother Lk1850 1

23. Bartack Brother Lk3b430bd 2

24. Bartack Brother Ke-430c-01 1

25. Bartack Juki Lk1900mc590sn 2

26. Bartack Juki Lk1900 hs 1

27. Button hole Amf reece S 100mech 1

28. Button hole Brother Lh4-b814-2 6

29. Button hole Juki Lvh780cm 4

30. Button hole Juki Lvh781ucm 7

31. Button hole Juki Lbh 781 6

32. Button attach (chain stitch) Brother Cv3-b916cm 1

33. Button attach (lock stitch) Juki Lk1903ass/301/10 3

34. Button attach (lock stitch) Juki Lk1903mcsm 2

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

35. Button attach Brother Be-438c 1

36. Button attach (chain stitch) Juki Mb372cm 5

37. Overlock Brother Ma4b551cm 2

38. Overlock Juki Mo3616cm 21

39. Overlock Juki Mo3916cn 16

40. Overlock Juki Mo6716s-de4-40h 4

41. Overlock (4 thd) Pegasus M3652-13 2

42. Overlock (5 thd) Pegasus M732-38-3x4 1

43. Overlock (6 thd) Pegasus M732-355 18

44. Overlock Siruba 757f-516m 28

45. Overlock (5 thd, ls) Siruba 757f-516m2-35 13

46. Snap button attach Gold stitch 55 9

47. Snap button attach Hang gang Zn-90 3

48. Snap button attach Zzihi No model 2

49. Shank button attach Juki Mb 372 3

50. DNCS Juki Mh380- ¼” cm 5

51. Bone pocket machine Darkapp adler 1970-991005-100 2

52. Blind stitch Juki Cv641cm 5

53. FOA Juki Ms1190cm- ¼” 1

54. FOA Juki Ms1261cm- ¼” 13

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

55. FOA Juki Ms1261vocm- ¼” 4

56. Pin tucking Kansai Dfb1412ptv 1

57. Smocking Kansai 1404cm ¼” ¾” 1

58. Smocking Kansai 1412pqcm ¼” 17

59. Smocking Kansai Dfb1012pssm 4

60. Digital puller Muyngjin Mp1116b 8

61. Digital puller Muyngjin Mp1116ss 10

62. Collar turning Ngaishing Ns45 1

63. Collar heat notcher Ngaishing Ns91clrtur 2

64. Collar contour trimmer Ngaishing Ns92 2

65. Pocket creasing Ngaishing Ns84pktcrs 1

66. Cuff blocking Ngaishing Ns85cufblc 2

67. Flat lock Revo Rs-900

68. Flat lock Siruba C007h/w812-356/crl/csa 2

69. Flat lock Union special U-s-flatlock 1

70. Embroidery Paff Emb 7

71. Sleeve attaching Paff 337g-734/02-2 1

72. Sewing lifting trolley Ramsons Sewlifttrolley 1

73. Zig zag cs picoting Siruba Z008-248q 2

74. Fagotting Singer 72w19 2

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

75. Zig zag Sunstar Dpk-3 10

76. Hook & eye Ykk Gn5 2

77. Snap button attach Ngaishing Ns45 1

78. Automatic shank b/a w/wrap Ascolite Mms mark 10 3

Appendix 1.9: Washing Department Machinery Details

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

S.no Machine Type Make Capacity Qty

1 Drying thumbler Ramsons 100kg 5

2 Sampling washing machine Stalwart 10kg 1

3 Washing machine Ramsons 110kg 2

4 Sampling washing machine Fabcare 12kg 2

5 Hydro extractor Fabcare 15kg 1

6 Sampling washing machine Ramsons 15kg 2

7 Sampling washing machine Stalwart 15kg 1

8 Drying thumbler Steafab 15kg 1

9 Hydro extractor 15kg 1

10 Washing machine Ramsons 200kg 5

11 Hydro extractor Fabcare 25kg 2

12 Drying thumbler ( local ) not in use 25kg 1

13 Drying thumbler Ramsons 25kg 1

14 Drying thumbler ( electrical ) Steafab 25kg 1

15 Hydro extractor Steafab 25kg 1

16 Washing machine Steafab 25kg 1

17 Drying thumbler Fabcare 50kg 2

18 Drycleaning machines Steafab 50kg 2

19 Drying thumbler Fabcare 60kg 1

20 Washing machine Ramsons 60kg 1

21 Washing machine Steafab 60kg 2

22 Cracle washing machine (local ) Wooden 1

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

23 Steam conical cylinder with press (local ) 1

24 Steamer 1

Appendix 1.10: Manpower Status of Finishing Floor

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

FLOOR MANPOWER

A 105

B 102

C 105

D 105

Appendix 1.11: Infrastructure Details of Finishing Floor

PURPOSENO. OF M/C,

TABLE USEDEQUIPMENT USED MANPOWER/TABLE

Thread cutting 5 Thread cutter/clipper 4

Initial

checking10 Stickers 2

Ironing 15 Steam iron, flat bed, bucks 1

Shade

matching1 2

Alteration 13Sewing machine, thread

clipper1

Measurement 1 Measuring tape 2

Spotting 2 Spotting gun, chemicals 2

Final checking 4 Stickers 2

Packaging 3 Packaging material, 2

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

polythene bags

Qc 1 2

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

APPENDIX-2

(ANNEXURES)

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

COMPANY

  MACHINE DETAILS (Sampling floor machinery excluded)

Year of Estd. 1974 SEWING M/C

Make Qty. Make Qty. Make No.of M/C

Make Qty. Make Qty.

Annual Turnover (Rs.crore)

2200 crore

SNLS Ordinary

Juki 214 Brother 70 Sunstar 51 Siruba 53    

Proprietory/Partner./Pvt. Ltd.

Pvt. Lytd.

SNLS With UBT

Juki 135 Brother 115 Sunstar 4 Siruba 147    

Export/Doms/Both./100%EOU

100% EOU

DNLS Ordinary

Juki 35 Brother 3 Sunstar 14        

In house /Fabrication/Both

Both ZIGZAG Sunstar 36                

No. of units 32 SNCS Juki 4                

Total Workforce

55000 DNCS Juki 3                

    Feed Off the Arm

Juki 22 Siruba 66            

Organisation Pattern

  Single Needle edge cutter

Juki 54 Brother 1 Siruba 3        

Owner Ms. Sarla Ahuja

D/N UBT Juki 22                

Vice President

3 Picotting Kansai 25                

Senior Executives

6 O/L(total) Juki 42 Pegasus 16            

Junior Executives

6 5TH. O/L                    

Production 1 Flat Lock Siruba 6                

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

manager    Collar

turning machine

Ngaishing 2                

    Cuff turning machine

Ngaishing 2                

CUTTING Dept.

  Bartack Juki 1 Brother 4            

Production Manager

1 Button sew C/S L/S

Juki 9              

Cam operator

2 Button hole Juki 11 Brother 6 Siruba 10        

Cutting Master/Asst.

3 Welt pocket m/c

Durkopp Adlerq

2                

Workers / Helpers

61.00 Blindstitch Juki 4                

Cutting excutive

1 CUTTING M/C

Make Qty. FINISHING M/C

Qty.   No.of M/C

  Qty.   Qty.

    STRAIGHT KNIFE

Bluestreak/2Yk119-5

12 Ironing table

63            

SEWING Dept.

  BAND KNIFE

Wastema International/11636 STV

1 STAIN REMOVING GUN

20            

Production manager

3 Driller Eastman 1 STAIN REMOVING W/S

1            

Floor incharge

4 DIE CUTTING

Ngaishing/MF 9.5

1 WASHING M/C

  Fabcare 3 Ramson 8 Stefab

3

Line incharge 21 Spreading machine

F.K.Arna/Automatic CO SX

2 HYDRO EXTRACTOR

  Fabcare 3 Stefab 2    

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Operators 882 CAM F.K. Systema/TP3002

1 TUMBLE DRYER

  Ramson 6 Fabcare 3 Stefab

2

Supervisor 21 Fusing machine(Flat contiuons)

Hashima/HP100ED

1 DRY CLEANING

  Stefab 2        

Inline checker

63

   

Finising Dept  

Production manager

1

Operators 472

Helpers 85

QA 5

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

SPREADING DEPARTMENT 

Style M543Fabric Width 39.5" Solid/YarnDyed/Print  

Fabric DetailLining fabricFabric Poplin

Fibre Content 100% cotton Nap

One Way

Manual Spreading Yes Splicing ? No Model n/a Make n/aNo.of Weights Used

1

Spreading M/c Type n/aLay Length

6.21mFabric Package Type

BaleHow Old

n/a Use of pins no

Spreading Mode NOW/FOWTable Width

64"Table top type

plyTable Lth

18m Table Ht 3ft

No.of Clamp Used 0 Lights per table 34Use of papers between layers

noHeight of light from cutting table

2.5 m

Lay No. 1 Lay Ht 2" No. of Fab Layers 100 MarkerType Paper / Fabric / CAD / On lineTime Duration in min.

10m 47s 8m 33s 8m 16s 9m 49s 8m 20s 9 m 25s12m 21s

14m 19s 13m 12s8m 48s

No. of Layers 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10Total fabric handled*

62.1 67.1 67.3 63.6 63.6 65.1 64.1 63.6 65.1 63.4

Spreading operators 3 3 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 3* (No. of layers x Lay length)+ End bits Lay No. 1 Lay Ht 2" No. of Fab Layers 100 MarkerType Paper / Fabric / CAD / On lineTime Duration in min.

10m 32s 8m 43s 8m 29 s 8m 11s 12m 27s 12m 50s9m 31s

8m 19s 8m 57s8m 10s

No. of Layers 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10Total fabric handled*

63.5 66.1 64.3 65.2 64 63.6 65.6 63.1 65.1 64.3

Spreading operators 3 3 3 3 2 2 3 3 3 3Operator Name Age Sex Education Height How long working in the deptt. Salaried/Hourly wageNagendra 35 M 10th pass 5'7" 4 salariedVishwanath 33 M 4th pass 5'11" 4 salaried

Akhilesh 40 M 8th pass 5'5" 12 salaried

SPREADING DEPARTMENT

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Style M398 Fabric Width 50" Solid/YarnDyed/PrintFabric Detail

Shell fabricFabric Polyester Fibre Content 100% polyester   Nap One way

Manual Spreading

Yes Machine Spreading No Splicing ? No Table Lth 18m Table Width 64"

Spreading M/c Type

n/a Make n/a Model n/a How Old n/a Table Ht 3ft

Spreading Mode

NOW/FOW Lay Length 6.21m Fabric Package Type Roll  Table top type

ply

No.of Clamp Used

0 No.of Weights Used 1 Use of pins no Use of papers between layers     no

Lights per table

34 Height of light from cutting table 2.5 m

Lay No. 1Lay Ht

2" No. of Fab Layers 100 MarkerType Paper / Fabric / CAD / On line

Time Duration in min.

15m 40s16m 15s

15m 40s 14m 39s 14m 20s15m 15s

17m 3s16m 19s

14m 13s 14m 48s

No. of Layers

10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10

Total fabric handled*

62.5 63.2 65.4 62.1 3.1 64.8 65.1 62.9 63.6 64.1

Spreading operators

3 3 3 3 2 3 2 3 3 3

* (No. of layers x Lay length)+ End bits

Lay No. 1Lay Ht

2" No. of Fab Layers 100 MarkerType Paper / Fabric / CAD / On line

Time Duration in min.

15m 43s18m 43s

14m 59s 16m 12s 15m 27s 14m 6s 16m 9s 17m 2s 15m 3s 14m 16s

No. of Layers

10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10

Total fabric handled*

65 66.1 67.2 65.2 65.1 63.1 62.1 63.6 65.6 63.1

Spreading operators

3 3 3 3 2 2 3 3 3 3

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Name Age Sex Education Height How long working in the deptt. Salaried/Hourly wageAnupam 56 M 7th pass 5'9" 14 salariedShailesh 23 M 9th pass 5'8" 3 salariedMahesh 40 M 8th pass 5'5" 7 salaried

SPREADING DEPARTMENT

Style M514 Fabric Width 60" Solid/YarnDyed/Print  Fabric Detail

Shell fabric

Fabric cotton Fibre Content100% cotton

Nap One way

Manual Spreading Yes Machine Spreading ? No Splicing ? No Use of pins no

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Spreading Mode NOW/FOW Lay Length 5.02m Fabric Package Type Roll Table Ht 3ft

No.of Clamp Used 6 No.of Weights Used 1Table Lth

18mUse of papers between layers

    no

Height of light from cutting table

2.5 mTable Width

  64" Table top type ply

Lay No. 1 Lay Ht 2"No. of Fab Layers

100 MarkerType Paper / Fabric / CAD / On line

Time Duration in min.

31m 44s 30m 25s 31m 44s31m 12s

29m 23s

30m 55s 31m 43s31m 29s

30m 23s

29m 28s

No. of Layers 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10Total fabric handled*

52.4 51.6 53.6 55.3 51.4 51.1 52.5 53.1 53.8 54.2

Spreading operators

4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4

Lay No. 1 Lay Ht 2"No. of Fab Layers

100 MarkerType Paper / Fabric / CAD / On line

Time Duration in min.

30m 32s 33m 45s 32m 14s32m 32s

33m 13s

30m 35s 31m 54s31 m 19s

31m 12s

32m 8s

No. of Layers 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10Total fabric handled*

51.8 53.5 53.1 54.2 53.8 52.4 53.6 54.9 53.6 55.2

Spreading operators

4 4 4 4 4 3 3 4 4 4

Name Age Sex Education Height How long working in the deptt. Salaried/Hourly wageSunil 37 M 10th pass 5'10" 20 salariedGiriraj 39 M 8th pass 5'9" 17 salariedHarinder 32 M 7th pass 5'8" 13 salariedRaj 29 M 8th pass 5'9" 12 salaried

CUTTING DEPARTMENT       

STYLE H - 980 FABRIC WIDTH 46"FABRIC 100% Cotton FABRIC CODE S983 RedSOLID/YARN DYED/PRINT Solid FABRIC DETAIL Symmetric Solid CottonFABRIC CONTENT Cotton NAP Either WayMARKER MODE NEW MARKER LENGTH 6 meters MARKER WAY NEW TOTAL PIECES / LAY 400 pcs.

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

SIZES IN ONE MARKER M (1)- L(1)-X L(1)- XXL(1)NO. OF PIECES IN MARKER 4TOTAL NO. OF PATTERN PARTS IN A MARKER 120NO. OF PATTERNS PER GARMENT 30TYPE OF CUTTING CNC MAKE F.K.Systema (Tukatech)

CUTTING M/C TYPEStraight Knife (block cutting) MODEL TP3002, FTR 200/200

Band Knife (recutting) BLADE TYPE Single Edge

TABLE WIDTH (CUTTABLE) 2 metresTABLE LENGTH (CUTTABLE)

2 metres

FREQUENCY OF BLADE SHARPENING WHILE CUTTING 2.5-3 metres of cuttingWORKING CONDITIONSLIGHTS PER SQ.MT. N/AFANS PER SQ. MT. No fan over the table (to prevent the movement of marker while cutting)MARKER TYPE Fed into the machine through a floppyLAY HEIGHT (max) 7.5 cm NO. OF FABRIC LAYERS 92CUTTING START TIME 11:10a.m. CUTTING END TIME 11:50a.m.TIME DURATION 40 mins CUTTING MASTERS N/ANO. OF PATTERNS CUT 120 NO. OF NOTCHES 92

Operation : Side seam overlock

            Element Breakdown             M/c Details : 3 Thread overlock

Sheet No. 16

Pick and position piece

Overlock one side

RepositionOverlock other side

Discard piece

   

Make/Model   Siruba/KX10

Style M506 With/Without UBT  

Fabric          

Garment Ladies top   Foreign Elements    

  (Raglan)                                   Description

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

NOTES S.NO T R T R T R T R T R T R T R   R T  

  1 10.64   10.25   7.69   9.39   1.23           A   14.3 Thread breakage

  2 9.12   10.80   8.87   11.04   2.23           B      

  3 9.25   9.29   8.54   11.25   1.67           C      

  4 9.14   8.97   7.48   9.51   1.54           D      

  5 8.32   10.08   8.34   10.62   1.46           E      

  6 8.61   9.15   7.42   10.16   1.83           F      

  7 10.73   9.22   10.87   11.01   1.98           G      

  8 9.43   10.99   9.32   9.18   1.59           H      

  9 10.55   9.17   8.75   9.99   1.32           I      

  10 10.62   10.04   7.70   10.14   2.34           J      

                                K      

                                L      

                                M      

SUMMARY  

TOTAL 'T'   96.41 97.96 84.98 102.29 17.19        Seam Diagram      

AVG T   9.64 9.80 8.50 10.23 1.72            

RATING   0.65 0.65 0.65 0.65 0.65                

Normal T   6.27 6.37 5.52 6.65 1.12         Attachment Used    

P F & D   0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15            

Standard T   7.21 7.32 6.35 7.65 1.28                  M/c Delay*   0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07         Total op. time SAM

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

S.A. TIME   7.71 7.84 6.80 8.18 1.37         30.52 0.51

SNLS=9% DNLS=14% O/L 3T=7% 4T=9% 5T=11%

APPENDIX VII – CAD EVALUATION FORMAT

SECTION A

QUESTIONNARE

SEGMENT – I (ORGANIZATION)

i. Which Cad system is being used in your organization?OPTITEX VERSION 10.0

ii. When was the CAD system being implemented in your organization?Before 5 years (12 – 13 YRS)

iii. How many times has the organization upgraded the CAD software or installed / changed to a new one ? ALMOST EVERY YEAR

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

SEGMENT – II (PURPOSE)

i. Is CAD easier than traditional methods?(a) User’s point of view YES

(b) Your point of view YES

ii. For what purpose/s is the CAD system being used? (Can be more than one) FOR PATTERN MAKING FOR DIGITIZING THE PATTERNS PROVIDED BY BUYER’S MARKER PLANNING ALTERATIONS IN PATTERNS GRADING

iii. Does CAD result in greater productivity, is it more lucrative?(a) If yes, then how?

1. TIME SAVED2. QUALITY OF PATTERNS3. ALMOST 85% EFFECIENCY

SEGMENT – III (GENERAL)

i. Do you feel that CAD is affordable?YES ($5000 = RS. 180000 PER KEY)

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

ii. Are traditional skills required to work on CAD?

Please Comment

YES TOOLS ARE THERE TO HELP OUT

iii. Are experienced pattern makers (who manually developed patterns and markers) easily accepting the extensive use of CAD / CAM?SOMETIMES

iv. Is the combination of an individual readily available who is an expert in CAD / CAM and pattern making?NO, SOMETIMES

SEGMENT- IV (TRAINING)

i. Was any training imparted to the operator when the new soft-ware was installed?YES

If yes, then for how many days?

7-15 DAYS

ii. Are you satisfied with the training given?YES

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iii. Do you think that training is only required when a new software is installed or do you recommend an in-house training otherwise as-well?ONLY WHEN SOFTWARE IS INSTALLED

iv. Do you think that the person working on CAD / CAM should be well versed in Pattern and Marker development or should he have fair knowledge about textile and styling as-well?YES

SEGMENT – V (PEOPLE INVOLVED)

i. How many people are working in the pattern development and marker making department?Please specify, (approx.)

CAD USERS- 18

MANUAL PATTERN MASTERS – 12

ii. Has the number changed (increased / decreased) with the usage of CAD?CANT SAY

iii. What is the age of person working on CAD?30 – 35 YRS

iv. Does he have any prior work experience on CAD?

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

YES IF YES, THEN HOW MANY YEARS?

3-4 YRS

Section B

The following factors have been identified to have an influence on adoption of CAD / CAM.

(Kindly select the most appropriate option)

Factors influencing adoption of IT Strongly positive

Moderately positive

Indifferent Moderately negative

Strongly negative

Can’t say

High Price

Reduces dependence on people

Failed installation in other organization

Collaborative working between various employees, supplier and buyer is easier

Ability of supplier to train the users in our organization

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Saves fabric

The supplier does not have an office in the location where my organization is situated

Improves first pass quality product

Reduces throughput time for product assemble

Requirement of constant training

Ready availability of literate professionals

Constant up gradation of system required

Others please specify----------- -

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Section C

This sheet will help you decide which system is best for your pattern development department and organization. ( Even if you have one. )

Note: Simple instructions to fill in the form.

Mention the various CAD / CAM systems you are aware of in (*) columns In the row below, mention how each of these systems came your knowledge, whether through your institute, buyer’s, pattern maker, the respective

company, fairs and exhibitions or some journals etc. Mention the CAD system under the evaluating points of 1-7.evaluate by giving score of 1-7 where 1 stands for best and 7 for the least. Same number maybe given for more than one company if the features are felt to be the same. The company scoring the minimum score as per your

requirements should be your choice for buying the CAD system. In the last column, kindly mention the basis of your evaluating criteria. For ex., if you have give 1 to a particular system and 3 to the other, kindly mention

who / why you made the decision.

Criteria TUKA TECH

PAD OPTITEX LECTRA GERBER ASTOR(RED TREE)

How you found out about them

Pattern maker

industry Respective company

institute Industry Agency/journals

Communications-digitizers and file import

2 2 1 3 1 3

Piece geometry identifications(points, lines, notches, orientations lines, piece rotation line for marker making)

3 3 2 2 2 2

Pattern design functions- 2 4 1 3 1 2

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measurement capabilities

Pattern design functions-darts, pleats, trace, cut, combine, shrink, stretch, flip, rotate patterns.

4 2 1 3 2 3

Pattern design functions- seam allowance definition, corners, corner insert

3 2 1 2 1 2

Removing and adding of patterns from present files, printing and redo and undo functions & keyboard and mouse hot keys- shortcut keys

1 2 2 2 1 3

Pattern grading functions 2 3 2 3 2 2

Maker making functions 1 3 1 2 1 2

Automatic marker making functions

2 3 1 2 2

Software platforms 3 3 2 4 2

Outputs and consumables availability

2 2 2 2 1

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Manuals 4 3 1 3 3

Communications access with respect internet compatibility

2 2 3 2 2 2

Warranty and after sales service

3 3 1 3 3 3

CAM and CAS interface 2 3 2 3 1 2

Customizing features 2 2 2 3 1 2

Cost implications 2 3 1 3 1 2

Interface capabilities with other design software

2 2 1 3 1 3

Plotting facility 3 1 1 1 1 2

TOTAL

45 48 28 49 29 46

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Any remarks: OPTITEX COMES OUT TO BE THE BEST CAD SOFTWARE CLOSELY FOLLOWED BY GERBER

Section D

Analyzing usage of various functions in the CAD / CAM systems.

Note: Kindly tick mark in the relevant column and pen down any remark / comment related to the point in the last column.

S.No. Criteria Always Sometimes/

Occasionally

Rarely Never Additional Comment

1. Digitization

2. On screen pattern construction

3. Notches option

4. Dart manipulation

5. Grading tools

6. Size correspondence

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

7. Specification sheet development

8. Piece assembly

9. Variant tools

10. Marker planning

11. Plotting

12. Piece rotation

13. Measurement capabilities

14. Pattern Design functions- Darts, pleats, trace, cut, combine, shrink, stretch, flip, Rotate pattern.

15. Removing and adding

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

patterns

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Section E

Technical specifications

Note: Simple instructions to fill in the form.

Mention the various CAD / CAM systems you are aware of in (*) columns Mention the CAD system under the evaluating points of 1-7, evaluate by giving score of 1-7 where 1 stands for simplest and 7 for the complicated. Then compare the following system on the basis of the criteria mentioned with respect to the manual pattern making methods also (Mention the rating in

the appropriate column.) If a particular facility is not available in manual pattern making / CAD, mention NIL. In the remarks column, kindly mention the basis of your evaluating criteria (If possible). For ex., if you have given 1 to a particular system and 3 to manual

pattern development, kindly mention why you made the decision.

Criteria OPTITEX GERBER LECTRA Manual Pattern Making Remarks

Communications-digitizers and file import

1 1 4

Pattern design functions-measurement capabilities

1 1 3

Pattern design functions-darts, pleats, trace, cut, combine, shrink, stretch, flip and rotate patterns.

1 2 3

Pattern design functions- seam allowance definition, corners, corner insert

1 2 4

Removing and adding of patterns from present files, printing and redo and undo functions & keyboard and mouse hot keys- shortcut keys /

2 1 2

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Pattern alterations

Pattern grading functions

2 1 2

Changes in Maker plans 1 2 3

Automatic marker making functions 1 1 2

Software platforms 2 1 3

Outputs and consumables availability

2 1 2

Manuals / Books 1 2 2

Communications access with respect internet compatibility

3 1 2

Warranty and after sales service 1 1 1

CAM 2 1 2

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Customizing features 2 2 2

Cost implications 1

2 3

Interface capabilities with other design software

1 3 3

Plotting facility 1 3 2

Marker Planning Options (Piece rotation, Ply and edges, direction of pieces, quantity of pieces and piece adjustment command, marker efficiency, fabric width, etc.)

2 1 2

TOTAL

28 29 45

Any remarks: OPTITEX IS A SOFTWARE WHICH ADAPTS TO THE ENVIRONMET VERY EASILY AND IT IS VERY USER FRIENDLY THEREBY INCREASING THE PRODUCTIVITY OF THE USERS WHICH LEADS TO HIGHLY EFFICIENT PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT.

Section 2 - Administration and Security  Name of the software

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Ref.Administration and security Assessments

Your W/F ScoreTotal (your W/F * Score )

3.1 Ease of use 4 4 16

3.2 Tabular selection 3 3 9

3.3 Password 4 4 16

3.4 Individuals and group settings 4 4 16

3.5 Audit trial 3 3 9

3.6 Customisation 4 3 12

3.7 Your Data      

3.8 Your Data      

3.9 Your Data      

3.1 Your Data      

Section 3 Total 22 21 78

Effeciency = C/(A*4)*100 88.63

Section 3 - Reports   Name of the software

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Ref. Reports and statistical output Your W/F ScoreTotal (your W/F * Score )

4.1 Ease to access to reports 4 4 16

4.2 Data export capability 4 4 16

4.3 Customisable reports 4 4 16

4.4 Format of reports (graphical/text) 3 3 9

4.6 Your Data   Re  

4.7 Your Data      

4.8 Your Data      

Section 4 Total 1515

57

Effeciency = C/(A*4)*100 95%

Section 4 - Web Based Software   Name of the software

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Ref. Web based Assessments Your W/F ScoreTotal (your W/F * Score )

5.1 Purchase of rent      

5.2 Data ownership 4 4 16

5.3 Functionality 3 3 9

5.4 Response Speed 4 3 12

5.5 Company stability 4 3 12

5.6 Cost analysis      

5.7 Internet access 4 4 16

5.8 Customisation 4 3 12

5.9 Spare      

5.10 Spare      

5.11 Spare      

5.12 Spare      

Section 5 Total 23 20 77

Effeciency = C/(A*4)*100 83.69

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Section 5 - Vendor and Vendor Support

  Name of the software

Ref.Vendor assessment and support provision

Your W/F ScoreTotal (your W/F * Score )

6.1 Stability 3 3 96.2 Professionalism 3 3 96.3 Service level agreement 3 4 126.4 Provision of customisation 4 4 166.5 Upgrade path 4 3 126.6 Customer base      6.7 Support for add-ons      6.8 Your Data      6.9 Your Data      6.11 Your Data      

Section 6 Total 1717

58

Effeciency = C/(A*4)*100 85.29

Section 6 - Software and other Costs   Name of the software

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Ref.Cost of the software and associated costs

Your W/F ScoreTotal (your W/F * Score )

7.1 Cost of software 4 3 127.2 Cost of hardware 4 3 127.3 Potential future cost 1 2 27.4 Implementation cost 3 3 97.5 Training cost 2 3 67.6 Cost of customisation 4 3 127.7 Spare      7.8 Spare      7.9 Spare      7.10 Spare      

Section 7 Total 18 17 53

Effeciency = C/(A*4)*100 73.61

Final Scores

Section Description Effeciencies

1 Overall Software Requirements 86.41

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2 Administration and Security 88.63

3 Reports 95

4 Web Based Software 83.69

5 Vendor and Vendor Support 85.29

6 Software and Associated Costs 73.61

7 FINAL EFFECIENCY AVERAGE OF ALL THE ABOVE

85.43833333

 

Time N' Action Calendar for Solids and Prints in Regular Qualities.

Time N' Action Calendar for YD Fabrics.

Time N' Action Calendar for Longer Lead Time and Speciality Fabrics.

 30 Days Development Cycle 45 Days Development Cycle 60 Days Development Cycle

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

Thresholds Timeline NO OF DAYS Timeline NO OF DAYS Timeline NO OF DAYS

In Store 11/1/2011   11/1/2011   11/1/2011  

EX FCTY 9/9/201153 days prior to I/S

9/9/2011 53 days prior to I/S 9/9/2011 53 days prior to I/S

Bulk PCD 8/5/201135 days prior to Ex fcty

8/5/201135 days prior to Ex fcty

7/31/201140 days prior to Ex fcty

Bulk Fabric Flow Start (In House)

7/31/2011

40 days post the order Confirmation Date

7/31/201150 days post the order Confirmation Date

7/26/201160 days post the order Confirmation Date

Pre-Production Samples Due 7/26/201110 Days prior to PCD

7/26/201110 Days prior to PCD

7/21/2011 10 Days prior to PCD

GPT Closure 7/31/20115 Days prior to PCD

7/31/20115 Days prior to PCD

7/26/2011 5 Days prior to PCD

FOB Due 7/21/201110 Days prior to Bulk Flow Start (In House)

7/21/201110 Days prior to Bulk Flow Start (In House)

7/11/201115 Days prior to Bulk Flow Start (In House)

Size Set Approval Due 7/21/201115 Days prior to PCD

7/21/201115 Days prior to PCD

7/16/2011 15 Days prior to PCD

TRIM(S) ORDER DATE 7/6/201130 Days prior to PCD

7/6/201130 Days prior to PCD

7/1/2011 30 Days prior to PCD

Formal FPT & Internal GPT Closure

6/28/20117 Days post order confirmation

6/18/20117 Days post order confirmation

6/3/20117 Days post order confirmation

COLORWISE B/UP TO MILLS

6/22/20111 Day post order confirmation

6/12/20111 Day post order confirmation

5/28/20111 Day post order confirmation

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD

ORDER CONFIRMATION/FABRIC ORDER DATE

6/21/201145 Days prior to PCD

6/11/201155 Days prior to PCD

5/27/2011 65 Days prior to PCD

Labdips/strike offs/DESKLOOM comments (Round 2)

6/22/20113 days (transit) 4 days Buyer's approval

6/8/20113 days (transit) 4 days Buyer's approval

5/24/20113 days (transit) 4 days Buyer's approval

Labdips/strike offs/DESKLOOM Submission (Round 2)

6/15/20117 Days from comments recvd

6/1/201114 Days from comments recvd

5/17/201114 Days from comments recvd

Labdips/strike offs/DESKLOOM comments(Round 1)

6/8/20113 days (transit) 4 days Buyer's approval

5/18/20113 days (transit) 4 days Buyer's approval

5/3/20113 days (transit) 4 days Buyer's approval

Labdips/strike offs/DESKLOOM Submission (Round 1)

6/1/201110 Days from 1st TP recvd

5/11/201114 Days from 1st TP recvd

4/26/201114 Days from 1st TP recvd

LABDIP/STRIKE OFF/DESKLOOM DEVELOPMENT

5/22/2011Same day as 1st TP recvd

4/27/2011Same day as 1st TP recvd

4/12/2011Same day as 1st TP recvd

TRIM APPROVAL/CLOSURE

6/20/20111 Day prior to the order confirmation

6/10/20111 Day prior to the order confirmation

5/26/20111 Day prior to the order confirmation

TRIMS Submission 6/5/201114 Days from 1st TP Received

5/18/201121 Days from 1st TP Received

5/3/201121 Days from 1st TP Received

TRIM DEVELOPMENT 5/22/2011Same day as 1st TP recvd

4/27/2011Same day as 1st TP recvd

4/12/2011Same day as 1st TP recvd

FIT APPROVAL/Production Tech Pack

7/6/201130 Days prior to PCD

7/6/201130 Days prior to PCD

7/1/2011 30 Days prior to PCD

SAMPLE STAGE 2 (APPROVALS/COMMENTS)

6/28/20113 days (transit) 7 days Buyer's approval

6/4/20113 days (transit) 7 days Buyer's approval

6/13/20113 days (transit) 7 days Buyer's approval

SAMPLE STAGE 2 (SUBMISSION)

6/18/201110 days from rect of comments on 1st Fit Sample

5/25/201110 days from rect of comments on 1st Fit Sample

6/3/201121 days from rect of comments on 1st Fit Sample

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SAMPLE STAGE 2 (TP ROUTING)

6/8/2011   5/14/2011   5/13/2011  

SAMPLE STAGE 1 (APPROVALS/COMMENTS)

6/8/20113 days (transit) 7 days Buyer's approval

5/14/20113 days (transit) 7 days Buyer's approval

5/13/20113 days (transit) 7 days Buyer's approval

SAMPLE STAGE 1 (SUBMISSION)

5/29/20117 days from rect of TP

5/4/20117 days from rect of TP

5/3/201121 days from rect of TP

SAMPLE STAGE 1 (TP ROUTING)

5/22/201130 Days prior to the order confirmation

4/27/201145 Days prior to the order confirmation

4/12/201145 Days prior to the order confirmation

FABRIC APPROVAL 6/19/20111 Wk from Submission

5/25/20111 Wk from Submission

5/2/20111 Wk from Submission

FABRIC QUALITY SUBMISSION TO BUYER (AFTER DOING INTERNAL FPT)

6/12/201121 Days from inspiration swatch rect

5/18/201121 Days from inspiration swatch rect

4/25/201128 Days from inspiration swatch rect

FABRIC INSPIRATION RECVD FOR DEVELOPMENT FROM BUYER

5/22/201130 Days prior to the order confirmation

4/27/201145 Days prior to the order confirmation

3/28/201160 Days prior to the order confirmation

SHAH I EXPORTS PVT. LTD., FARIDABAD