1611TRL064
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ELAINE NG [email protected] MENTION the South of France, and cities such as Nice, Marseille and Cannes would most likely come to mind. For the intrepid traveller, these cities would often be labelled “too touristy” or “been there, done that … many times over”. But who could resist the beach towns that are synonymous with summer vacations — the towns that Parisians flock to once the mercu- ry moves up. The next time you find yourself heading south, factor in extra time to explore the small quaint towns that add arty and cul- tural flavours to the Côte d’Azur. Within the French Riviera and Southern Alps, about a 45-minute drive from Nice, Vence is a hilly town that was once home to writ- ers D H Lawrence and André Gide. A must-see is Vence’s biggest tourist attraction, the Chapelle du Rosaire, which is regarded as the complete and final masterpiece of the renowned artist Henri Matisse. Matisse is said to have designed the chapel as a gift of thanks to the Dominican nuns who cared for him during the last days of his life. Sit- uated near the north of the vieille ville (old town), the white chapel ex- udes a humble exterior that belies its stature. Indeed, it took my trav- el companions and me some re- lentless searching before we found the chapel sitting uphill along Av- enue Henri Matisse. To soak in more of the mod- ern art atmosphere, head over to nearby Saint Paul de Vence, a me- dieval-like village that is home to only about 400 residents, best dis- covered en pied (on foot). Strolling around the ramparts with fellow day-trippers makes one feel guilty at destroying the tran- quillity of the slumber-town. But the modern artists’ studios and shops selling exquisitely-packaged olive oil, crafts and souvenirs that exude a certain chi-chi-ness shout- ing for tourists’ attention eased my guilt as I got trigger-happy. The walk around the ramparts offers magnificent views of the tiered stone houses that line the varying contours of the hills. If you manage to get onto higher ground, be sure to capture your panoramic postcard shots spanning from the Alps to the sea. For more historical heritage, don’t miss taking a shot of the ceme- tery by the Porte de Nice. At the Cimetière, you will find the tomb of artist Marc Chagall, who died in 1985. Another must-see is the Fon- dation Maeght — home to a per- manent collection of paintings and sculptures unique in Europe, from the works of Giacometti, Miro, Braque, to Chagall and more. A word of advice for those com- ing here during the summer months: Temperatures could real- ly soar. I was caught in the middle of the heat wave and the tempera- ture reached 41°Celsius at one point. Despite the heat, I just had to sit under the plane trees of one of the most famous sand-pitches in the world, sipping my au lait at the Café de la Place around the Place de Gaulle, watching clueless as the folk of St Paul engage in France’s famous game of pétanque, a form of lawn bowling. Here, you take your own sweet time to explore and to experience the unique mix of traditional and modern art, architecture and cul- ture. After all, as the local folk say: “In Saint-Paul de Vence, time is your best guide.” Visit quaint towns which draw visitors with their arty flavours and medieval setting 64 T ODAY • Thursday • November 16, 2006 plus traveller GETTING TO SAINT-PAUL DE VENCE: By air – Nearest airport is Nice Côte d’Azur Airport. Take a taxi from there, or bus number 400 (takes one hour, eight departures during week- days and four on weekends) By train – Nearest station is Cagnes sur Mer Then take bus No 400 (Cagnes sur Mer to Saint-Paul takes about 15 minutes) By bus from Nice bus station – Take bus number 400 (bus departs every 30 to 45 min- utes). ELAINE NG SOUTHERN CHARM: St Paul de Vence (top), the town’s narrow lanes and art shops (above left) and the chapel designed by the artist Henri Matisse. Cote d’Azur’s small delights
Transcript of 1611TRL064
EELLAAIINNEE NNGG [email protected]
MENTION the South of France,and cities such as Nice, Marseilleand Cannes would most likely cometo mind. For the intrepid traveller,these cities would often be labelled“too touristy” or “been there, donethat … many times over”.
But who could resist the beachtowns that are synonymous withsummer vacations — the towns thatParisians flock to once the mercu-ry moves up. The next time youfind yourself heading south, factorin extra time to explore the smallquaint towns that add arty and cul-tural flavours to the Côte d’Azur.
Within the French Riviera andSouthern Alps, about a 45-minutedrive from Nice, Vence is a hillytown that was once home to writ-ers D H Lawrence and André Gide.A must-see is Vence’s biggest touristattraction, the Chapelle du Rosaire,which is regarded as the completeand final masterpiece of therenowned artist Henri Matisse.
Matisse is said to have designedthe chapel as a gift of thanks to theDominican nuns who cared for himduring the last days of his life. Sit-uated near the north of the vieilleville (old town), the white chapel ex-udes a humble exterior that beliesits stature. Indeed, it took my trav-el companions and me some re-lentless searching before we foundthe chapel sitting uphill along Av-enue Henri Matisse.
To soak in more of the mod-ern art atmosphere, head over tonearby Saint Paul de Vence, a me-dieval-like village that is home toonly about 400 residents, best dis-covered en pied (on foot).
Strolling around the rampartswith fellow day-trippers makes onefeel guilty at destroying the tran-quillity of the slumber-town. Butthe modern artists’ studios andshops selling exquisitely-packagedolive oil, crafts and souvenirs thatexude a certain chi-chi-ness shout-ing for tourists’ attention eased myguilt as I got trigger-happy.
The walk around the rampartsoffers magnificent views of thetiered stone houses that line thevarying contours of the hills. If youmanage to get onto higher ground,be sure to capture your panoramicpostcard shots spanning from theAlps to the sea.
For more historical heritage,don’t miss taking a shot of the ceme-tery by the Porte de Nice. At theCimetière, you will find the tomb of
artist Marc Chagall, who died in1985.
Another must-see is the Fon-dation Maeght — home to a per-manent collection of paintings andsculptures unique in Europe, fromthe works of Giacometti, Miro,Braque, to Chagall and more.
A word of advice for those com-ing here during the summermonths: Temperatures could real-ly soar. I was caught in the middleof the heat wave and the tempera-ture reached 41°Celsius at onepoint.
Despite the heat, I just had tosit under the plane trees of one ofthe most famous sand-pitches inthe world, sipping my au lait at theCafé de la Place around the Placede Gaulle, watching clueless as thefolk of St Paul engage in France’sfamous game of pétanque, a form oflawn bowling.
Here, you take your own sweet
time to explore and to experiencethe unique mix of traditional andmodern art, architecture and cul-ture.
After all, as the local folk say:“In Saint-Paul de Vence, time isyour best guide.”
Visit quaint townswhich draw visitorswith their arty flavoursand medieval setting
6644 TODAY • Thursday • November 16, 2006
plus traveller
GGEETTTTIINNGG TTOO SSAAIINNTT--PPAAUULL DDEE VVEENNCCEE::BByy aaiirr – Nearest airport is NiceCôte d’Azur Airport. Take a taxi from there, or busnumber 400 (takes one hour,eight departures during week-days and four on weekends)BByy ttrraaiinn – Nearest station isCagnes sur MerThen take bus No 400 (Cagnessur Mer to Saint-Paul takesabout 15 minutes) BByy bbuuss from Nice bus station –Take bus number 400 (busdeparts every 30 to 45 min-utes).
ELAINE NG
SSOOUUTTHHEERRNN CCHHAARRMM:: SStt PPaauull ddee VVeennccee ((ttoopp)),, tthhee ttoowwnn’’ss nnaarrrrooww llaanneess aanndd aarrtt sshhooppss((aabboovvee lleefftt)) aanndd tthhee cchhaappeell ddeessiiggnneedd bbyy tthhee aarrttiisstt HHeennrrii MMaattiissssee..
Cote d’Azur’s small delights
