15 Specialized Cutting Equipments
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Transcript of 15 Specialized Cutting Equipments
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8/13/2019 15 Specialized Cutting Equipments
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LESSON 15: SPECIALIZED CUTTING EQUIPMENTS & TRANSFERRING
MARKS
Objectives:
Cutting machines and their operations
Recent development in equipments and techniques
Many types of specialized cutting machines are designed for specific operations and
specific products. An example is a strip cutter, which may cut or cut and roll strips or
bindings from knit tubular yardage, cut bias strips from wovens, or cut strips from vinyls or
other fabrics. There are also strip cutters that measure and cut lengths of materials such as
ribbons, tape, elastic, and strapping. The cutting device on a strip cutter may be as simple
as a rotating blade that cuts as the product is forced against it.
TRANSFERRING MARKS
Marks and notches are transferred from markers to the perimeter or internal surfaces
of garment parts to facilitate the sewing operation. Operators depend on marks for
alignment, placement of parts, special treatment during the assembly process. When usingoperator-controlled cutting equipment, it is the cutter's responsibility to transfer the marks
accurately to the cut garment parts. Computer-controlled cutters mark garment parts during
the cutting process.
Marks should not damage or discolor the visible parts of a garment. This is especially
true with internal marks, but edge marks if incorrectly done can also cause seam damage.
Marks must be accurately placed and readily visible for sewing operators until the specific
sewing operation requiring the mark is completed.
(i) Edge marks are made in a variety of ways, but a vertical straight knife or a hot notcher
is commonly used. A small lateral cut into the lay with a straight knife is best suited to firm,
smooth materials that do not ravel easily. This method of marking requires a perfectly
vertical lay with no sloping, otherwise some pieces will be marked too deep, while others
will not be marked at all.
(ii) A hot notcher is a hand-held device with a vertical electrical element that scorches
fabric at the point of contact. Temperature and notch depth are adjustable for the fabric. A
hot notcher is a good choice for edge marks on natural fiber and knit fabrics as it makes
clearly visible marks that do not disappear. When used properly, it does not cut, pucker, or
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