132 Hannover CL.ii + Pheon Decals. Finished! - Work in Prog

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1:32 Hannover CL.II + Pheon Decals. Finished!Started by Viking , Jul 28 2013 07:09 PM

HannoverHannover Wingnut WingsWingnut Wings PheonPheon 1;321;32

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#1

Very Obsessed Member

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Viking

Posted 28 July 2013 - 07:09 PM

I've finally reduced the number of builds on my workbench to a sensible level, so feel justified in making a start on this,the Hannover CL.II from Wingnut Wings. Review is here of The KitAnd here of the Pheon Decals Getting it all together, this is where we start;

I'm looking forward to this!. A start was made by removing the fuselage halves and then all the interior components inthe order they are needed. Everything is prepared by removing moulding lugs and and scraping any slight seams, andthen storing all the components in zip lock bags according to the numbered stage of the assembly instructions. These are then primed with Halfords grey primer from a rattle can, and the wooden parts sprayed with Tamiya XF-57Buff. When the buff is dry a coat ofJohnsons Kleer is brushed on top of it ready for the oil paints that will create thegrain effect.

1:32 Hannover CL.II + Pheon Decals. Finished! - Work in Progress - Aircraft - Britmodeller.com 1/6/2014

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Stage 1 Cockpit;

Stage 2 & 3 Cockpit (continued)

Stage 4 Fuselage;



And getting ahead of myself I prepared some of the 'halved' engine parts so that they are ready to have the seamssanded down later. There is a choice of 3 props, given that I can usually mess one up I chose the Niendorf andGermania ones, and can use the one that comes out best. Stage 6 Argus As.III Engine.

Thats all for now, thanks for looking, John

#2

Obsessed Member

crobinsonh

Posted 29 July 2013 - 07:45 AM

Lovely start and very nice photography




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#3


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1,612 posts

Viking

Posted 30 July 2013 - 09:40 AM

Short update.The wooden parts have all now been 'grained' with oil piants. I use Griffin Alkyd quick drying oils as they only takeabout 6 hours to dry as opposed to the weeks that other tube oil paints can take.Putting a blob of Indian red, Raw Sienna, and Burnt Sienna on an ex-pringles lid I vary the mix as I go along, to getdifferent tonal values to each component.The grain is applied with a 1/4" wide brush, then a small piece of sponge dragged across, and some delicate reworkwith the brush. The Real Hannover's interior was coloured with a dark stained varnish. After applying my version I went over theframework with some Citadel 'Ushabi Bone' to lighten it in preparation for some lighter grain colour to go on. This isjust to provide some contrast and highlight the detail.

Other interior components with either the wood treatment, or Citadel 'Catachel Green'.




The engine parts have been prepared with a coat of Humbrol gloss black, ready for various shades of Alcladaluminium.Here was my first error. When doing the initial photos above, I noticed I had used the cylinder halves with pushrodsmoulded on. Fortunately it had not long been glued and I was able to separate the cylinders and use the optional partwithout pushrods on it. I will use wire to make my own as it looks so much more realistic. They are bit out of sequencefor painting now, as i have had to let the glue set on them.There are various pipes, the pilots seat back, ammo tank, oil tank, crankcase, rudder pedal boxes, the correctedcylinders, and inlet manifold.

Thanks for looking,



John

#4


Product Reviewer

1,612 posts

Viking


Interior is now done, I went over the framework with raw sienna, the contrast looks good but may nor be strictlyaccurate if on the real thing the whole area was dark varnished all over. However, I like the detail showing up like this.The few ancilary parts have been added to the fuselage sides also.

All the interior major sub assemblies are done. Bulkheads, radio set, Recce Camera etc.




Dry fitted together;



And dry fitted into the fusegae halves to check the fit and get a sense of how it is all going to look.



On with the engine next! John

#5

Neddy Seagoon AGG

Gold Member

3,358 posts

Jon Kunac-Tabinor


OH yes!!! just ordered the same model - to build with Pheon decals for their stand at telford- so you have my FULLattention, lol Which option are you doing from the sheet? Jonners - hoping I can do the kit full justice- which you are.

#6


Product Reviewer

1,612 posts

Viking


Hi Jonners, I'm not sure which one I am going to choose from the Pheon sheet yet, there are at least 5 I want! I'll firm up mydecision soon.One thing I forgot to mention for when you build yours. The instructions have an error (shock horror!). The etched lapbelts are misnumbered, swap them around. P11 & P12 are shown as going in the front for the pilot. They have littlecircles on the top end. If you look at part A41, the rear bulkhead for the observer, there are little spigots for the circlesto fit over. So put P1 & P4 in the front on bulkhead A40, and P11 & P12 on A41. I'm sure that is correct. I'd already locked the front ones on with a dot of cyano, wondering why they had little cirles on the end. It's not seriousso I left them alone, but check yours out and see if I am correct! Cheers John

#7

Established Member

gishuk

Posted 01 August 2013 - 09:36 PM

Great work so far on what looks to be an awesome kit. Ive got one to build myself at some point once I finish my LVG.






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What scheme are you going to do? Im planning on the full fuselage lozenge myself, looks great but will be alot of work.

#8


Product Reviewer

1,612 posts

Viking


gishuk, on 01 Aug 2013 - 3:36 PM, said:

What scheme are you going to do? Im planning on the full fuselage lozenge myself, looks great but will be alot of work.

I've finally decided on this one, Schlasta 16, Linselles, May 1918.

I like the full all over lozenge and the contrast with the yellow markings.It's a close run thing though, I am also very, very tempted by these two. There is a small chance I may change mymind!

Anyway good progress made as I had this week off work . After making a blunder by using the wrong set of cylinderhalves with the pushrods moulded on, I managed to separate it and glue on the 'plain' cylinder half so that I couldmake my own pushrods. With this done I aslo wired up the magnetos and spark plugs before adding various ancillaryitems to the engine.




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Other side.

Completed;

The props were masked with laminations in 2 different styles.



And sprayed with red-brown.

Then overpainted with a dark blend of griffin alkyd tube oil paints to make the laminations much more subtle, anddecalled. A coat of Johnsons klear finishes it off. Niendorf (top) Germania (bottom). I'll use the Germania and put theNiendorf in the spares box.

All set into 1 fuselage half;



The other fuselage half is now applied and the whole lot is zipped up.



I'm going to let the seam settle for a few days before doing any more, as I find that if you clean it up and start painting,a 'ghost' of the seam will start to show. Thanks for looking, John PS here's an Eduard 1/48 Hannover I made some years ago. One of their earlist kits with handpainted fuselagelozenge.

#9

Established Member

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ForestFan


Looking great, must treat myself to a wingnut wings kit one day....!FF

#10

Obsessed Member

JOAN






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Woow. !!!! speechless ! masterwork here. the complete "big show" of material rendering.Many thanks for sharing this amazing build.olivier

#11

Neddy Seagoon AGG

Gold Member

3,358 posts

Jon Kunac-Tabinor


Hi John - wow this is looking splendid. Mine arrived on Wednesday - so have been drooling over it since ( and trying toavoid drooling of the Fokker DVIIF that came with it...) I think I know which scheme I'll do from Rowan's sheet now too.... Whats your plan for the lozenge colours paint wise? from what I understand these were mixed to roughly match theprinted lozenge. Cheers Jonners

#12


Product Reviewer

1,612 posts

Viking

Posted 17 August 2013 - 11:58 AM

Sensible man Jonners, getting hold of one of these and a D.VIIF! Drool inducing kits indeed. Progress slowed a bit as I had to go back to work, but is at least steady. I've concentrated on the flying surfaces whileleaving the fuselage join to settle. Speaking of which, this fuselage was one of the easiest of Wingnuts that I havedone. It was still tight with all that detail in, but was fairly easy to persuade it to close up.I have a query that I wonder if anyoone can help with. The hand holds in the upper wing centre section do not go allthe way through.

Can this be right? I've never seen any like this on real aircraft before, but am loathe to say Wingnuts got it wrong. I'velooked a plans & photos but can't say one way or the other if the should be 'open'. I've left them 'as is' for the momentbut they can easily be opened up if that is how they should be. I drille & pinned the ailerons with brass wire to strengthen them. It's not strictly necessary but is a good idea if you aregoing to handle the model. Note that for the photo I have paired the wrong aileron with the wing, the aileron bracket





should be on the underside. Just testing to see who is paying attention!

Wings were painted ready to receive the lozenge decals. You must do this in order to give the decals something to biteinto and settle on. Don't be tempted to think that you can just apply the lozenge to the bare plastic, it won't work.I use a pale blue on the underside and a dark green on top, as close to one of the lozenge colours as is reasonable.Should there be any tears or problems when the lozenge is on, the colour of the base coat will hide any blemishes.

The lozenge is very easy to do, there are only 2 pieces per surface, and include the rib tapes.



I do them 1 piece at a time and let it dry before doing the next;

You need to work out if your Hannover has tail struts or not, and drill your own sockets for them according to theWingnuts instructions. Pheon provide a usefull table of serial ranges & production batches, which helped me work outthet my option 132??/17 was from the second production batch and thus I should use all the 'early' options in the kit,including tail struts and ailerons.



And then lozenged;

Lots of other bits have been cut out, cleaned & prepped. (Note - there is a typo on the wingnuts instructions, the insidewheel covers are shown as D8 when they should be D6, 'coz thats what they are on the sprue. D8 are the inspectioncovers under the engine.).

I keep struts labelled up in ziplock bags untill needed. Mixing them up can lead to disatser.



Now Jonners was asking how I am going to tackle the handpainted lozenge areas on the fuselage and upper wingcentre section. I've decided to do it with masks and airbrush, as I did with my 1/48 Hannover a few years back. In reallife the Hannovers fuselage & upper wing centre section was handpainted (or possibly masked & sprayed) toapproximate the lozenge fabric areas. A dark glaze was the applied over it, giving a finsh that could vary from aircraftto aircraft.However I am infomed that Aviattic are working on a set of decals for this purpose, which will be worth keeping an eyeon. I am going to use Tamiya acrylics mixed as closely as I can to match the 'swatches' helpfully provided on the Wingnutsdecal sheet;

But I'm not going to be too pedantic about it, as when done the whole lot will be blended together with a 'glaze' coat ofPrussian blue as noted by Richard Alexander on the Wingnuts instructions. This gave a fuselage described at the timeas 'Blue', 'Black' , and 'Dark green'. Take your pick! As it happens Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow is a good match the first colour 'm' that I need for the upper surface, so asession with the airbrush brings me to the start point of what is going to be an intense job!



http://www.aviattic.co.uk/aviattic.co.uk/Welcome.html

The U/C legs are not glued in yet, just push fitted. I assembled & glued it up for painting, with the exception of gluing itto the fuselage. This way I can paint it whilst still removing it to paint the lozenge under the fuselage. Thnaks for looking, John

#13

Heracleum Mantegazziani!

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avro683


Well done John, I've bookmarked this for when I get round to starting mine. I think the toy bear they've included is alovely touch.

#14


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Viking


Started doing the handpainted lozenge. Looking at photos and Wingnuts instructions, whilst being freehand it doeshave a certain amount of regularity to it. So I made a set of interlocking plasticard templates to use as to cut outmasking tape, and made some masks.

I'll just make more as I need them. All parts masked up. I worked along the fuselage placing masks side by side and above and below, removing the onesI didn't want to hopefully replace them as I do more colours, and they should meet up,





Rizzo likes this

The green mixed up to as close to the decals as I can, and sprayed.

Next up is to apply more masks on the green, and spray the next colour, and so on.Its tedious rather than difficult! Cheers John

#15

Completely ObsessedMember

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woody37


You're raving mad John, but looking forwards to more

Stunning stuff so far

#16 general melchett





He's not the Messiah..He'sjust a very naughty boy

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Lovely work John, these early machines really were works of art. Wonderful detailing and paintwork as usual. Reallymust have a go at one at some point...........looks fun.

#17

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Sean1968


Great stuff

#18

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youngtiger1


Viking, totally awesome. I have the same kit so I'll be following with the rest of the build.

#19


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Viking


Thank you chaps, I hope that some of the pointers I may be able to give will be of use to anyone following down thisparticular path. One thing while I remember it, the lozenge decals for the ailerons are shaped for the wider 'later' versions, having alittle extra out at the tips. Of course I found this out when sliding the decal off the paper, on to the 'early' ailerons. Youmay want to trim them before wetting.On the same subject, the main lozenge decals have all the rib tapes and edging strips printed on them. The ribs lineup beautifully, but I found that the decals are just that bit too wide in chord and I lost some of the edging tapes on theleading & trailing edges. Anyway, back on to current work. This feels a bit like a swan, in that progress might appear to be slow and stately, butbeneath I am paddling away furiously.It's that 'handpainted' lozenge. Mask, spray, mask, spray, etc.and cut out more and more masks along the way. I mixed all my colours, matching as close as I could to the colours on the 'swatches' as mentioned above.






I've used Tamiya acrylics thinned with isopropanol, mixed and stored in empty but cleaned out jars with the topssprayed to show what is in them. The XF-60 is used neat, no need to mix this one as it matches nicely anyway. What I am trying to reproduce here is the freehand application of semi regular shapes with some completely irregularones, as this is how it appears to have been done in the Hannover factory. (It was not a neat and regular pattern asseen of the printed fabric areas, phew!. So having done the buff and light greeen, apply more masks and do the dark blue;

then apply more masks and do the mauve;

Then apply more masks and do the dark green;



By now I was losing sight of what was going on underneath all that tape!So now, the fun part - the big reveal!

And, yes, it's not just the fusleage and centre section that need doing, all the struts do as well. And a key moment, how does it look against the decalled wings and tail?



woody37 likes this

I'm happy with that. There has been one or two fuzzy edges where the tape lifted, but I can correct those. It won't lookas stark as this when finished, as it will need a coat of 'dark varnish' as was done on the full size. This should tone it alldown and blend it together to give that 'darkblue/dark green/black/take your pick' fuselage colour. What next? I've got turn the fuselage and centre section over and start again with paler lozenge colours. There goes another 5days!

Thanks for looking, John



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#20

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gishuk


Looks fantastic. Ill have to use your method for painting the fuselage when I come to build mine, doesnt look as trickyas I thought it might be.

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132 Hannover CL.ii + Pheon Decals. Finished! - Work in Prog

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