1 2 FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER Need to Know Dos and Don’ts · a range of veg and non-veg guises....
5
2 1 Quick Facts LANGUAGE Italian TIME 3½ hours behind IST CURRENCY Euro (€) MOBILE PHONES International roaming tariffs are steep, so it’s best to purchase a local SIM card; available at newsstands and tobacconists. INTERNET ACCESS Wi-fi is not widespread and often requires payment. You cannot use an internet cafe without an ID card/passport. TOURIST INFORMATION The Italian National Tourist Office (ENIT; www.enit.it) has a branch in Mumbai (%022 6772 8186–90; Indo-Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry, No 805, 8th Floor, 349 Business Point, Western Express Highway, Andheri East) Need to Know When to Go Italian weather is mostly pleasant. It rarely gets cold in the south of Italy, though the north can get bitterly cold in the winter. • July–August: Peak summer months equal peak tourist season. Bright mornings, warm afternoons and breezy evenings are matched by long queues and hikes in room tariffs. • April–June & September–October: The right time to bag good deals on hotels, especially in the south. Spring is best for festivals, flowers and local produce, while autumn is best for warm weather and the grape harvest. • November–March: Although prices skyrocket for Christmas, New Year and Easter, this period is the quietest in terms of tourist arrivals. Prices are generally at their lowest. Note that high season extends from late December to March in the Alps and Dolomites. First Time in Italy • Passport: Your passport should be valid for at least six months after your date of entry. • Visa: Apply for a visa three to four weeks in advance. You need to submit a processing fee, along with two photographs, bank statements for three years, tax returns for the last three years, a leave letter from your company (if applicable) and a covering letter. See p282 for more details. HEALTH & SAFETY • You can expect high standards of hygiene everywhere, including at roadside eateries. And it’s absolutely safe to drink water straight from the tap. • Petty theft is not uncommon, so be careful with your belongings, especially at crowded tourist attractions. ADVANCE PLANNING Three months before • Book your air ticket. • Plan your itinerary and budget. • Book accommodation. One month before • Apply for your visa if you haven’t done it already. • Scan local websites for special events or festivals during your stay, and book tickets where possible. One week before • If taking prescription medicines, ask your physician for a signed and dated letter describing your condition and medication. • Scan or photocopy all important documents (passport, driving licence, etc), reconfirm hotel bookings and make key restaurant reservations. • Pack, buy foreign exchange, print your tickets. WHAT TO PACK • Smart casual clothes – T-shirts, shorts and dusty sandals don’t cut it in fashionable bars and restaurants. Sturdy shoes for walking are a must. • Sunscreen and sunglasses. • Licence and car documents for driving holidays. • Prescription medicines and first-aid basics. • A comprehensive travel insurance policy. • Consider packing a few desi snacks. Many smaller towns do not have Indian restaurants. A bottle of chilli sauce is a good idea if you must have heat in your food. For detailed information, see Travellers' Helpdesk on p280 The Leaning Tower attracts busloads of tourists daily Dos and Don’ts Say 'buongiorno' (good day) or 'buonasera' (good evening) to shopkeepers and service staff. Kiss both cheeks and say 'come stai' (how are you) to friends. Only use first names if asked to do so. Say 'mi scusi' (excuse me) to attract attention; and use 'permesso' (permission) when you want to pass someone in a crowded space. When dining out summon the waiter to your table by saying 'per favore' (please). Leave a 10% tip for good service at restaurants. Don't wear revealing clothes when visiting religious sites; cover your torso, shoulders and upper legs when you visit. Don't leave personal possessions unattended in crowded public areas. Don't visit a well-reviewed restaurant or shop without checking opening hours; many establishments close for at least a part of August. Don't turn up at an Italian home without a small gift of sweets (dolci) or wine (vino). FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.
Transcript of 1 2 FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER Need to Know Dos and Don’ts · a range of veg and non-veg guises....
21
Quick FactsLANGUAGEItalian
TIME3½ hours behind IST
CURRENCYEuro (€)
MOBILE PHONESInternational roaming tariffs are steep, so it’s best to purchase a local SIM card; available at newsstands and tobacconists.
INTERNET ACCESSWi-fi is not widespread and often requires payment. You cannot use an internet cafe without an ID card/passport.
TOURIST INFORMATIONThe Italian National Tourist Office (ENIT; www.enit.it) has a branch in Mumbai (%022 6772 8186–90; Indo-Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry, No 805, 8th Floor, 349 Business Point, Western Express Highway, Andheri East)
Need to Know
When to GoItalian weather is mostly pleasant. It rarely gets cold in the south of Italy, though the north can get bitterly cold in the winter.
• July–August: Peak summer months equal peak tourist season. Bright mornings, warm afternoons and breezy evenings are matched by long queues and hikes in room tariffs.
• April–June & September–October: The right time to bag good deals on hotels, especially in the south. Spring is best for festivals, flowers and local produce, while autumn is best for warm weather and the grape harvest.
• November–March: Although prices skyrocket for Christmas, New Year and Easter, this period is the quietest in terms of tourist arrivals. Prices are generally at their lowest. Note that high season extends from late December to March in the Alps and Dolomites.
First Time in Italy• Passport: Your passport should be valid for at least six months after your date of entry.
• Visa: Apply for a visa three to four weeks in advance. You need to submit a processing fee, along with two photographs, bank statements for three years, tax returns for the last three years, a leave letter from your company (if applicable) and a covering letter. See p282 for more details.
HEALTH & SAFETY• You can expect high standards of hygiene everywhere, including at roadside eateries. And it’s absolutely safe to drink water straight from the tap.
• Petty theft is not uncommon, so be careful with your belongings, especially at crowded tourist attractions.
ADVANCE PLANNINGThree months before • Book your air ticket.• Plan your itinerary and budget.• Book accommodation.
One month before • Apply for your visa if you haven’t done it already.• Scan local websites for special events or festivals during your stay, and book tickets where possible.
One week before • If taking prescription medicines, ask your physician for a signed and dated letter describing your condition and medication. • Scan or photocopy all important documents (passport, driving licence, etc), reconfirm hotel bookings and make key restaurant reservations.• Pack, buy foreign exchange, print your tickets.
WHAT TO PACK• Smart casual clothes – T-shirts, shorts and dusty sandals don’t cut it in fashionable bars and restaurants. Sturdy shoes for walking are a must. • Sunscreen and sunglasses.• Licence and car documents for driving holidays.• Prescription medicines and first-aid basics.• A comprehensive travel insurance policy.• Consider packing a few desi snacks. Many smaller towns do not have Indian restaurants. A bottle of chilli sauce is a good idea if you must have heat in your food.
For detailed information, see Travellers' Helpdesk on p280
The Leaning Tower attracts busloads of tourists daily
Dos and Don’tsSay 'buongiorno' (good
day) or 'buonasera' (good evening) to shopkeepers and service staff.
Kiss both cheeks and say 'come stai' (how are you) to friends.
Only use first names if asked to do so.
Say 'mi scusi' (excuse me) to attract attention; and use 'permesso' (permission) when you want to pass someone in a crowded space.
When dining out summon the waiter to your table by saying 'per favore' (please).
Leave a 10% tip for good service at restaurants.
Don't wear revealing clothes when visiting religious sites; cover your torso, shoulders and upper legs when you visit.
Don't leave personal possessions unattended in crowded public areas.
Don't visit a well-reviewed restaurant or shop without checking opening hours; many establishments close for at least a part of August.
Don't turn up at an Italian home without a small gift of sweets (dolci) or wine (vino).
FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER
Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.
43
Where to EatRistorante (restaurant): Crisp linen, formal service and refined dishes make restaurants the obvious choice for special occasions. Many top-ranked restaurants open only for dinner, with a set-price degustazione meal that leaves the major menu decisions to your chef and frees you up to concentrate on the four to six tasting courses. Gourmands would do well to splash out on a lavish dinner at one of Italy’s fine-dining hotspots, such as Rome’s Open Colonna (p98) or Milan’s Cracco-Peck (p119).Trattoria: A family-owned version of a restaurant, with cheaper prices, more relaxed service, and classic regional specialities. Avoid places offering ‘tourist menus’. Osteria: Historically a tavern focused on wine, the modern version is usually an intimate, relaxed trattoria or wine bar offering a handful of dishes from a verbal menu. Enoteca: Perfect for a little vino downtime, wine bars often serve snacks as well.
Pizzeria: A top place for a cheap meal, cold beer and a buzzing vibe. They often have plenty of veggie options. The best pizzerias are often crowded: be patient. Tavola Calda: Literally a ‘hot table’, these cafeteria-style options peddle cheap pre-made food like self-service pasta, roast meats, pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) and supplì (fried
Value for Money: Cheap treatsDon’t judge by the heading – these treats are not just pocket-friendly but also the best options when you want a bite on the move:
•Pizza al taglio: ‘Pizza by the slice’ is the perfect piazza-side nibble. Feel free to munch as you walk around.
•Panini: Deliciousbreadrollsareavailablestuffedwithvegornon-vegfillings.•Gelato: The best Italian gelato uses seasonal ingredients and natural colours.
•Arancini: Deep-friedriceballsstuffedwithragù(meatsauce),tomatoandvegetables; a Sicily speciality.
risotto balls with a mozzarella centre).
The Italian MenuYou can stick to one or two courses if you like, but when you're in Italy, it's worth it to abandon your diet and indulge in a full feast. • Antipasti (appetiser): Antipasti are a good way to sample a number of different dishes. Tantalising offerings may include the house bruschetta (grilled bread with a variety of toppings) or regional treats like mozzarella di bufala (buffalo mozzarella). Even if it’s not on the menu, it’s always worth requesting an antipasto misto (mixed), a platter of morsels including anything from olive fritte (fried olives) to prosciutto e melone (cured ham and cantaloupe). At this stage, bread may also be deposited on the table as part of your €1 to €3 pane e coperto (‘bread and cover’ or table service). • Primo (first course): Starch is the star in Italian first courses, from pasta and gnocchi, to risotto and polenta, all available in a range of veg and non-veg guises. You may be surprised how generous the portions are – a mezzo piatto (half-portion)
Italy’s best Indian restaurants•Il Guru (p80), Rome: This elaborately decorated establishment servestastyvegetarianmeals(plusadecentnon-vegselection).
•Jaipur (p80), Rome: One of the city's mostauthenticeateries,rightfromthedécor to the tandoori dishes.
•Indian Fast Food (p98), Rome: Good valueformoney,Bollywoodtunesinthe background.
•Ganesh Ji (p158), Venice: Tuck into a veg or non-veg set lunch menu at this eatery overlooking the canal.
•Rangoli (p119), Milan: The so-called ‘ayurveda’ menu is essentially normal vegfood,butthepaneertikkasandnaans are authentic and tasty.
•Haveli (p187), Florence: Wash your biriyani or paneer pakoras down with cold lassi or a masala chai.
Top Tip: Is it really veg?Even if a dish sounds vegetarian intheory,beforeyouorderyoumay want to ask about the stock usedinthatrisottoorpasta,ortheingredients in that suspiciously rich tomatosauce–theremaybebeef,ham or ground anchovies involved.
Artisanal cheeses for sale in Rome
FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER
Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.
Italy is a small country, but the sheer number and variety of its attractions can make it a challenge to plan your visit. This section takes you through the must-visit regions, with planned trips, or itineraries.
P64
P212
P106 P140
P174
P238
Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.
FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER 65
Italy at a Glance
MILAN, THE LAKES & PIEDMONTShop in Milan, chill out at Lake Como and discover Slow Food in Turin.
SICILY & SOUTHERN ITALY From cable-car rides to smoking Mt Etna to cave hotels, Italy's south is set to stun.
VENICE, VENETO & BOLOGNA Bubbly wine and gondola rides in Venice, romance and music in Verona and food galore in Bologna.
FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA Get wowed by art in Florence, marvel at Pisa's Leaning Tower.
ROME & THE VATICAN Glorious architecture, great masterpieces and a heady modern buzz.
NAPLES, POMPEII &THE AMALFI COAST Experience vibrant city life in Naples, see time frozen in Pompeii, have a romantic getaway in chic Capri.
VERONA
TURIN
CAPRI
PALERMO
PISA
PERUGIA
Venice, Veneto & Bologna
Gondolas navigate a narrow canal in Venice
Top 5 Highlights• Basilica di San Marco (p146)Glitteringmosaicsandmasterpieces.
• Palazzo Ducale (p147)WitnessthesplendouroftheVenetianempire.
• The Grand Canal (p149)Takethegondolarideofyourdreams.
• Roman Arena (p164)Verona’sepicamphitheatre.
• Quadrilatero (p170)Bologna’shistoriccentreandfoodhub.
Why Go?ThehypeabouttheregionofVenetoiswrong–it’sanunderstatement.YourfirststopmustbethedazzlinglagooncityofVenice,risinglikeafairytalelandfromthewaterwithitspinkpalacesandgoldendomes.Surroundedbywinecountry,Verona,thesettingforRomeo and Juliet,isjustashorttrainrideaway.BolognaintheneighbouringEmiliaRomagnaregionisadelightforfoodieswholovetheirprosciuttoandparmesan.
Getting There & AwayAir: Localandinternational(mostlyEuropean)flightstoandfromVenice's Marco Polo Airport(VCE;%0412609260;www.veniceairport.it),Verona'sVerona-Villafranca Airport(VRN;%0458095666;www.aeroportoverona.it)andBologna'sGuglielmo Marconi Airport(BLQ;www.bologna-airport.it).
Train: NationalandregionaltrainsserveVenice,includingdirectintercityconnectionstoMilan(€15–32,2½to3½hours),Florence(€24–43,2–3hrs)andRome(€45–75,3½–6hrs);VeronahastrainstoVenice,PaduaandVicenza;BolognaisconnectedtoVenice,RomeandMilan.
7 8FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER
Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.
109
Keep at least two days for enchanting Venice. One of the world’s greatest cultural cities, it is unique for its piazzas, palaces and waterways and for the picturesque islands that surround it like a string of pearls. Take photographs in Piazza San Marco (St Mark’s Square), described by Napoleon as ‘the most elegant dining room in Europe’; cruise along the Grand Canal or hold hands on Rialto bridge. Spend a day in gracious Verona close by, site of the stately Roman Forum and many a museum and piazza. Eat your way across Bologna’s Quadrilatero with delis filled with the highest quality parmesan, parma ham and other regional delights. If you have the time, fit in a detour to Padua (p152) from Venice, or even a ski trip to the Dolomites (p166).
Venice, Veneto & Bologna
GETTING AROUND THE REGION
•Train: Excellentconnectionsbetweenmajorcitiesandtowns.•Bus:Handyforinlandtownsnotservicedbytrains.
•Bicycle:Idealforsmallertownsandalpinetrails.
•Walk:PerfectforexploringVeniceandsmallercities,townsandalpinetrails.
•Vaporetto:Publicwater-busplyingVenice’sGrandCanalandconnectingcentralVenicewithfar-flunglagoonislandsandMarcoPoloAirport.
•Gondola:Flat-bottomboatsrowedwithasingleoararen’tjustquaint:they’rekeytosightseeinginVenice,wherethefrontsofbuildingstraditionallyfacethecanal,notinland.
•Traghetto:PublicgondolaserviceforcrossingVenice’sGrandCanalbetweenbridges.
Itineraries1 Venice (2 days)
2 Verona (1 day)
3 Bologna (1 day)
The Grand Canal in Venice is lined with stately buildings
Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.
FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER
