0801 Final dissertation S1439922 JUI YI KUNG

Slow fashion movement for the market and

understanding consumer perceptions

JUI YI KUNG

S1439922

An extended essay submitted in partial fulfillment of

the requirements of MSc Luxury Brand Management

January 2016

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ABSTRACT

This study undertakes exploratory research in order to analyze the perceptions

consumers have on slow fashion products, their motivations and behaviors

regarding ethical purchasing and slow fashion, as well as analyze the challenges

slow fashion faces in entering into the fashion industry. The exploratory

research is carried out by means of semi-‐structured interviews and a case study

will be performed on the Company H&M. The aim of the research is to develop a

new theoretical framework based on the research findings which in order to

understand slow fashions position in the fashion industry. The research findings

detailed that the overall consumer perception of slow fashion was that it was

often perceived as being more expensive and of varying to lower quality as it was

ethically made. Consumers express desire to engage in ethical purchasing

however their lack of slow fashion product knowledge inhibited their ethical

purchasing behavior. It was further discovered that product placement, pricing

as well as the physical and social surroundings impacted the consumer behavior

towards ethical purchasing and slow fashion.

This Dissertation is my own original work and has not been submitted elsewhere in fulfilment of the requirements of this or any other award

(13060 word count)

Signature: _________JuiYi Kung______________

Date: __________8th Jan 2016_____________

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

ABSTRACT ............................................................................................................... i

Chapter 1 – INTRODUCTION ................................................................................. 1

1.1. Study background ................................................................................................ 1

1.1 Aim ......................................................................................................................... 3

1.2 Objectives .............................................................................................................. 3

CHAPTER 2 -‐-‐-‐ LITERATURE REVIEW ................................................................. 4

2.1 Theories in the context of fashion ...................................................................... 5

2.2 Fast Fashion V.S Slow Fashion ............................................................................ 8

2.3 Slow fashion movement .................................................................................... 11

2.4 Two elements of slow fashion .......................................................................... 14

2.4.1 Ethics .................................................................................................................................. 14

2.4.2 Sustainability ................................................................................................................... 15

2.5 Slow fashion product attributes. ...................................................................... 18

2.6 The impact of slow fashion ............................................................................... 20

2.7 The consumer’s motivation of slow fashion ................................................... 21

Table 2.7.1: The difference between slow and fast fashion consumers (Modified

Jung, 2014) ...................................................................................................................................... 23

2.8 Summery .............................................................................................................. 23

(Image 2.5.1) Source: The Canada Fair Trade Network .................................................... 24

CHAPTER 3 -‐-‐ RESEARCH METHODOLOGY ........................................................ 25

3.1 Aim and objective ............................................................................................... 26

Table 3.1.1: The key research of this study is restated ..................................................... 26

3.2 Research philosophy .......................................................................................... 26

3.3 Research approach ............................................................................................. 28

3.3.1 Inductive ............................................................................................................................ 29

3.4 Research methodolog ........................................................................................ 29

3.4.1 Qualitative method ............................................................................................................ 30

3.4.2 Case study ........................................................................................................................... 31

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3.5 Data collection and analysis ............................................................................. 32

3.5.1 Data collection ................................................................................................................. 32

3.5.1.1 Primary data collection – Semi-‐structured interviews ................................... 32

3.5.1.2 Secondary data collection – Documentary .......................................................... 34

3.5.2 Data analysis .................................................................................................................... 34

3.6 Ethical considerations ....................................................................................... 35

3.7 Limitations .......................................................................................................... 36

3.8 Summery .............................................................................................................. 37

CHAPTER 4 -‐-‐ DATA ANALYSIS AND FINDINGS ................................................. 39

4.1 Data collection methods .................................................................................... 39

4.2 Consumer variables recognized at the personal and situational levels

toward slow fashion and ethical purchasing. ........................................................... 41

4.2.1 Characteristic variables ................................................................................................ 41

4.2.2 Ethical perception/consciousness ............................................................................ 42

4.2.3 Quality perception/consciousness ............................................................................ 42

4.2.4 Value/price perception ................................................................................................. 43

4.2.5 Social surroundings ....................................................................................................... 45

4.2.6 Physical surroundings ................................................................................................... 45

4.2.7 Ethical cognitive effort .................................................................................................. 46

4.3 Case study – H&M ............................................................................................... 47

(Image 4.3.1) ................................................................................................................................... 51

(Image 4.3.2) ................................................................................................................................... 51

(Image 4.3.3) ................................................................................................................................... 52

(Image 4.3.4) ................................................................................................................................... 52

CHAPTER 5 -‐-‐ RESEARCH DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION .............................. 53

5.1 Research discussion ........................................................................................... 53

5.2 Research objectives, discussion and conclusion ............................................ 56

5.2.1 Understanding the consumer’s thoughts on slow fashion ................................. 56

5.2.2 Identifying consumer behaviors and motivations toward slow fashion ....... 57

5.2.3 Exploring the challenges slow fashion faces in entering into the fashion

industry ............................................................................................................................................ 57

5.3 Slow fashions theoretical framework – conclusion ....................................... 58

5.4 Managerial implications .................................................................................... 60

5.5 Limitations and recommendations for future research ............................... 61

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REFERENCE ............................................................................................................ 63

Appendix 1. Ethical Form .................................................................................... 75

Appendix 2. The question of Semi-‐structured interviews .............................. 81

LIST OF TABLE

Table 2.7.1: The difference between slow and fast fashion consumers (Modified

Jung, 2014) ...................................................................................................................................... 23

Table 3.1.1: The key research of this study is restated ..................................................... 26

LIST OF IMAGE

(Image 2.5.1) ................................................................................................................................... 24

(Image 4.3.1) ................................................................................................................................... 51

(Image 4.3.2) ................................................................................................................................... 51

(Image 4.3.3) ................................................................................................................................... 52

(Image 4.3.4) ................................................................................................................................... 52

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Chapter 1 – INTRODUCTION

1.1. Study background

Fast fashion is currently the dominant force in the fashion, textile and apparel

industries, whereby production is aimed at churning out products quickly to

meet rapidly changing trends. Yet, due to recent environmental and economical

worldwide crisis, more and more pressure is being placed on textile and apparel

industries to turn to ethical and sustainable processes. A new movement has

started to grow within the textile and clothing fashion industry known as the

‘slow fashion’ movement. This movement focusses on the aspects of quality,

ethics and sustainability of the products throughout production and their

product life cycle. Slow fashion and the movement is slowly becoming more

relevant and finding placement in stores as clothes deemed as ‘disposable’ are

becoming less popular along with the decline in available disposable incomes.

In recent times, more and more pressure has been placed on the environment

through the consumption of natural resources. This problem can be funneled

down to the current level of mass production that industries are now achieving.

Similarly, due to the requirements mass production needs to be efficient in the

textile and apparel industries, ethical shortcuts are now also known issues that

are being faced in the textile and apparel industries.

In order to combat the pressure these industries are putting on the environment

and the ethical misconducts therein, more and more companies are adopting

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ethical and sustainable processes. The general public as consumers now have

greater access to publicly available information, thus, consumers today are now

equipped with a greater understanding of ethical conduct/behaviors and the

consequences thereof (Pookulangara, 2013), and thus, more pressure is applied

to the fast fashion companies to conform to practices where ethical consumerism

can take place.

It is therefore through following ethical consumerism that sustainability and

recycling are becoming responsibilities of the fashion industry (Ringstrom,

2015).

In 1986, the first concept or origin of slow fashion had been founded by Carlo

Petrini in Italy. The main purpose of the concept is to draw attention to the

values of ‘slow’ and the quality of life for people (Fletcher, 2007). The term ‘slow

fashion’ was created by Fletcher (2007).

Slow fashions aim is to be a sustainable process that includes the planning of

design, the selection of fabric, the purchasing of production and also further

including education for the consumers (Fletcher, 2010). Slow fashion and the

slow fashion movement emphasizes on the aspects of ethics and sustainability

during production and throughout the products lifecycle. With slow fashions

increased focus on quality over quantity, it is slowly becoming a replacement for

some fast fashion products whilst also lowering the impact on the environments

resources.

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These days there is an increase in the awareness of consumer behavior which

marketers are paying closer attention to. Shopping activities can be studied in

order to identify changes in consumer behavior in today’s continuously

developing environment within today’s competitive marketplace (Rintama ki et.

al., 2006). Thus, a changing pattern of consumption may trigger development in

different shopping behaviors relative to the consumer (Backstro m, 2011).

It is therefore important to understand a consumers shopping motivations in

order to gain understanding on slow fashions position in the fashion industry

and the challenges slow fashion might face in entering into the fashion industry.

1.1 Aim

The aim of this study is to develop a new theoretical framework that sheds

light on consumer merchandises’ adoption of slow fashion based on the

understanding, perception, and awareness of slow fashion.

1.2 Objectives

1. To gain an understanding of the consumer’s perception on slow fashion.

2. To identify consumer behaviors and motivations toward slow fashion.

3. To explore the consumer concerns slow fashion faces in entering into the

fashion industry.

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CHAPTER 2 -‐-‐-‐ LITERATURE REVIEW

Chapter one has provided an overview on the research. From this introduction it

is crucial to understand that the literature review can be connected with the aim

and object of this study.

There are seven sections within this chapter. First this review will start with an

overview on the main theories that drive consumption behaviors in the context

of fashion. The following part of the chapter will elaborate on the concepts of

slow fashion in comparison with fast fashion. Moreover, it will highlight the main

factors that led to the rise of slow fashion. Following that section, the chapter will

focus on the two elements of slow fashion which are ethics and sustainability.

Thus, in the section that follows, the product attributes of slow fashion will be

further discussed. Furthermore, in order to supplement the application of the

new actuarial methods, the sixth section will contain an overview of the impact

of slow fashion. Lastly, the final section of this chapter will elaborate consumers’

motivations for slow fashion.

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2.1 Theories in the context of fashion

In academic literature, fashion can be defined by several definitions, which are,

fashion behavior, a function of social and period, and a process of contemporary

trendsetters (Lewis, Kerr and Burgess, 2013). Furthermore, some researchers

stated that fashion could be a target for consumers seeking attention through

consumption (Woodside and Ko, 2013; Hornig, Fischer and Schollmeyer, 2013)

The term ‘fashion’ can be difficult to define as it has varied meanings for different

people. Although, the fashion theory has been incorporated from many different

disciplines, such as anthropology, social sciences and history of the arts. Thus, for

research purposes, this studies primary emphasis will focus on consumer

behavior.

According to Simmel (1957), Fashion trends are usually lead by the ethic group

with the highest social status. This usually lead to the influencing of subordinate

groups who aimed to imitate the style or status of the upper class to enhance

their social status. This effect of fashion was called the trickle-‐down theory.

However, there are two researchers who argued against this effect of the

trickle-‐down theory (King, 1969 and Blumer, 1969). They argued that fashion

should be available for any social status and that the media helps new styles to

be implemented as trends to each level of society at the same time.

Blumer (1969) also considered that clothing does not take its prestige from the

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elite, but instead, its ‘potential fashionableness’ is determined by factors that are

out of the elite’s control.

Consumers choices and decisions could be driven by ethnic groups with the aim

of gaining social acceptance rather than only high social status (Kaiser,

Nagasawa and Hutton, 1995). Similarly, Sproles (1974) indicated that fashion

could be defined as a process by consumer’s collective selection, though the

fashion behavior could be causation for consumer choice decisions. Sproles

(1981) proposed the fashion could be created by different cultures, lifestyles or

any kind of artistic excellence. Sproles also developed a conceptual framework,

“Fashion Theory”, based on setting basic constructs and structured concepts in a

contemporary theory of fashion, stating it as creative concept, a tangible or

intangible diffusion in contemporary style and influence of society.

Furthermore, Davis (1992) proposed the “Fashion Systems Model” in order to

analyze consumers’ choices and to evaluate their needs. Through the fashion

systems model, consumers can influence social economy or new lifestyle

movements. He also noted that fashion might be encouraged by contemporary

trendsetters. One trend that can be said to have been established by

contemporary trendsetters was the new movement called “slow fashion”, which

will be discussed later in this study. Conspicuous consumption is a way of

showing off ones’ social status. This applies most when the items are on visible

display to the public and can be recognized as being too expensive for someone

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that is in the same class as the wearer. This kind of consumption is usually

associated with the rich but can also be applied to any economic class.

Thus, through the conspicuous consumption, the consumer can camouflage

themselves to gain higher or special status of fashion (Crane, 1999). As

mentioned before, the primary state of conspicuous consumption is the focus on

personal traits which is used to present evidence of ones’ wealth. (O’Cass and

McEwen, 2004). Further, even as fashion behavior is a major function of social

status, Sproles (1985) deemed that fashion could be an expression of ego,

personality attitudes, or even a demonstration of personal creativity. However,

consumers are constantly expanding demand for fashion products, which led

them to start to search for fast and cheap fashion (Zarley Watson and Yan, 2013),

calling this trend, fast fashion. Polhemus and Procter (1978) stated that it would

be a new fashion trend for consumers to change their buying behavior, and

therefore, Morgan and Birtwistle (2009) stated that fast fashion is successfully

entering the consumer groups due to lower prices and rapid mass market

production especially for the younger group. Nonetheless, faced with problems

arising from mass production, some of the consumers are aware that the need

for clothing recycling can slow down the excessive waste of resources generated

by manufacturing (Joy et al., 2012). Hence, the “ethical consumerism” is

becoming a new movement in recent years (Clarke, 2008; Strong, 1996) The

studies show that there are more and more green’ products that consumers are

willing to purchase for this new movement known as “slow fashion” (Jin Gam et

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al., 2009 and Kahn, 2009). Slow fashion often ties in with ethical consumerism

which is the conscious consumption or purchasing of products and services that

are manufactured in a manner that lowers environmental and social damage

whilst purposefully staying away from products and services that are known to

cause damage to the environment or have a negative impact on society.

It is therefore through following ethical consumerism that sustainability and

recycling are becoming responsibilities of the fashion industry (Ringstrom,

2015). The next section will demonstrate and compare the concepts of fast and

slow fashion.

2.2 Fast Fashion V.S Slow Fashion

As previously mentioned, there are two fashion trends that have developed over

the past decade, fast fashion and slow fashion. This section will explain the

difference between fast and slow fashion.

The concept of fast fashion is a unique business model in the fashion industry. A

retailer, who takes on a fast fashion business model, usually has a fast

responding supply chain that is able to provide quick supply to consumer

demands and emerging fashion trends by delivering fashion items to retailers

with a lead time of around a few weeks (levy and Weitz, 2004). Due to

globalization and technology development the fast fashion in the retail industry

is able to get a large number of products at lower costs with continuous supply

to consumers. This enables consumers to get the newest styles with the lowest

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price. Over the past five years, the fast fashion market has seen growth of over

45 percent because low pricing has changed the way consumers perceived the

value of textile or clothing, thus resulting in a “rapid discard culture” (Fletcher,

2010). According to Cline (2012), every year 13 million tons of textiles or

apparels are wasted, when only 15 percent will be donated and 20 percent to be

resold.

Fast fashions primary aim is to reduce the production cycle and use the shortest

time to getting a new fashion product out to satisfy their consumers’ needs

(Barnes and Lea-‐Greenwood, 2006). Some fast fashion retailers (such as Zara,

Forever 21 and H&M etc.) produce products that are imitations of some of the

high-‐end styles but market them at lower prices to the consumers (Barnes and

Lea-‐Greenwood, 2006; Barnes and Lea-‐Greenwood, 2010 and Sheridan, Moore

and Nobbs, 2006). Hence, Following the growing market of fast fashion, the

manufacturers are simply wasting resources due to lower prices and the

products becoming easily accessible. Many scholars point out that fast fashion

consumers are not concerned about the recycling and quality of the apparel

products (Bianchi and Birtwistle, 2010 and 2011; Laitala, 2014; Joung and

Park-‐Poaps, 201; Lang, Armstrong and Brannon, 2013) For this reason, the items

of fast fashion are usually quickly discarded without any form of recycling taking

place. This is because the consumers purchase more than they need (Chang and

Jai, 2015; Joung, 2014; Kim, Jung Choo and Yoon, 2013). Studies indicate that

many consumers do not know how to recycle their fast fashion products, even

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though it is usually an environmental issue that makes consumers show concern

(Goworek et al., 2012). Kim and Damhorst (1998) stated that there are more and

more consumers willing to pay more, and stand with a positive attitude towards

the environment while siding with ‘green’ products. Thus with the change in

consumer behavior, retail industry consumption patterns also face a tipping

point for a new type of consumer.

On the other hand, slow fashion does not operate under the same fashion

business strategy as fast fashion does, yet it doesn’t also mean “slow fashion” or

even efficiency and trendiness. It is in fact based on quality (Pookulangara and

Shepherd, 2013). In 1986, the first concept or origin of slow fashion had been

founded by Carlo Petrini in Italy. The main purpose of the concept is to draw

attention to the values of ‘slow’ and the quality of life for people (Fletcher, 2007).

The term ‘slow fashion’ was created by Fletcher (2007) “Slow fashion is about

designing, producing, consuming and living better. Slow fashion is not time-‐based

but quality-‐based. Slow is not the opposite of fast but a different approach in which

designers, buyers, retailers and consumers are more aware of the impacts of

products on workers, communities and ecosystems”. More, Clark (2008) stated

that slow fashions aim is not meant to slow the supply chain of apparel or textile,

but rather, to help create a completely sustainable process for the fashion

industry.

It is to be a sustainable process that includes the planning of design, the selection

of fabric, the purchasing of production and also further including education for

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the consumers (Fletcher, 2010). Accordingly, the major pillar of slow fashion is

replacing quantity with quality, through the slower production to validate the

value of the sustainable. As stated by Zarley Watson and Yan (2013), the slow

fashion consumer who selects to purchase a high quality sustainable product,

shows the attachment/importance thereof. The same consumer would rather

pass along, donate, resell or reuse those clothes. Slow fashion is not a blindly

followed fashion trend, but a change in mentality. When consumers purchase

slow fashion apparel, it is often with the thought of the sustainability of the

product (Pookulangara and Shepherd, 2013). Hence, there is a new movement

known as the “slow fashion movement”, linked to a generation that has an

awareness of the sustainability and responsibilities in the fashion industry

(Henninger, 2015; Pookulangara and Shephard, 2013; Turker and Altuntas,

2014).

2.3 Slow fashion movement

From the previous section, we can see that slow fashion is becoming a new

fashion trend in the apparel and textile industry to this present day. Some

scholars indicate that the positive thinking of slow fashion consumer behavior

could aid the growth of sustainability positioning strategies (Chang and Jai, 2015;

Goworek et al., 2012; McNeill and Moore, 2015). Slow fashion is not a fashion

trend only for a season but a concept to break consumerist, thus, the term “slow

fashion movement” was created by Kate Fletcher, the author of the book

“Sustainable fashion and textiles, Design Journeys” (2008). She mentioned that

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the slow fashion movement is an innovative idea based on sustainable values to

design textiles and wears. Moreover, Fletcher stated that slow fashion is a

subsystem that should be considered within the framework of economic and

social systems, whilst, slow fashion could also be a choice, lifestyle, cultural

diversity or identity (Fletcher, 2010). Therefore, the slow fashion movement is a

condition about the “ethical”, “sustainable” and “green/eco”. The movements

major aim is from “quantity to quality”, but also to advocate the use of

alternative materials for the fashion products with awareness and responsibility.

A slow fashion supply chain should ideally be run with the ‘slow fashion values’.

Zarley Watson and Yan (2013) indicated that slow fashion isn’t just a different

way to describe ethical fashion and is not the direct opposite of fast fashion

either, but is rather a change in direction for the textile and apparel industries to

work in a more thoughtful manner, from retailer to consumer, to be functional at

all levels within the apparel and textile industries.

The slow fashion movement is a decision and thinking according to the larger

environmental and social systems, and through collective behavior, it is possible

to influence the people and ecosystems. From this perspective, the slow fashion

movement could also encourage small-‐scale production, independent designers,

traditional craftsmanship or local fabrics and markets (Fletcher, 2010).

The slow movement is a foundation that is laid from different fashion values. It

could include ethical, sustainable development and environmental care practices

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into slow fashion products. Again, through emphasis on the quality and

craftsmanship of production, slow fashion can educate consumers to change

their shopping habits. There are more and more new slow fashion consumers

starting to take care in noticing the quality of apparel and how they are made

(Gargi and Ha-‐Brookshire, 2011). Therefore, production transparency is a key

element for slow fashion (Williams, Baldwin and Fletcher, 2009).

A corporation has responsibilities as an organization for its decisions and

activities regarding the impact it has on society, the environment as well as the

organizations own well-‐being or prosperity, known as Corporate Social

Responsibility (CSR). Thus, CSR goes hand in hand with accountability

throughout the fashion industry which has brought forth an increase in the

requirement for supply chain transparency (Perry and Towers, 2009).

Moreover, based on the CSR perspective, slow fashion will need to focus on two

elements which are “ethics” and “sustainability”. According to Fletcher (2007)

slow fashion is to build mutually beneficial relationships between consumers,

laborers, suppliers and even the ecological environment.

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2.4 Two elements of slow fashion

Slow fashion is not only just a concept, but a revolution process in the present

day (Audretsch et al., 2012; Fletcher, 2008; Godart, 2015). Slow fashions aim is

to provide great values for society and the environment through slow products.

There are two indispensable elements, “ethics” and “sustainability”. Those two

elements carry both requirements and opportunities in the fashion industry

(Willliams, Baldwin and Fletcher, 2009). Many researchers have stated that as a

sustainable firm, it is impossible to be sustainable without being ethical

(Svensson, Wood and Callaghan, 2010). Thus, for slow fashion, ethics and

sustainability are inseparable, both of which will be explained further.

2.4.1 Ethics

When ethics is mentioned, it is the thinking/beliefs that deal with aspects

relating to the actions that humans take and the way we conduct ourselves in

regards to what is right and what is wrong in performing those actions. Ethics

also take into account how good or how bad the motives behind the actions are.

Dowd and Burke (2013) stated that the consumers could feel a greater sense of

self-‐identification through ethical consumerism. Moreover, when consumers

purchase ethical/green products, it can also influence a firm’s operational

decisions, thus, the thought of ethics and/or morals could become a decision

making process (Sarah, Kristof and Patrick, 2003). It is because of this that

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consumers are increasingly willing to display their concern for social morality

through consumption behavior (Muncy and Vitell, 1992).

As a supply chain process, being ethical requires transparency as a key

component. There is a report that shows that the second highest polluting

industry is fashion, second only to the oil industry (Ditty, 2015; Bertilsson, 2015).

Cheap ‘fast fashion’s’ production mess causes environmental pollution,

additionally, many sweatshop scandals breaking out display indifference to

human (labor) rights (Kane, 2015). This indicates that being fully transparent is

still a challenge for many firms. 61 percent of companies do not know where

their products/apparels are made (Fashionrevolution.org, 2015). However,

through openness of communication, accountability and full honesty of the

supply chain process, slow fashion firms can achieve high ethical values.

2.4.2 Sustainability

Sustainability is the capability to continue at a set level or a defined behavior

indefinitely. However, sustainability can also be covered by main elements which

are, environmental sustainability, economic sustainability and social

sustainability. In 1987, the World Commission on Environment and

Development (WCED) released a report called ‘Our Common Future’ also known

as the Brundtland Report. In this report, the WCED clearly explained the concept

of “sustainable development”. “Humanity has the ability to make development

sustainable to ensure that it meets the needs of the present without

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compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” (WECD,

1987, P.16-‐17). Even though the report emphasized on “sustainable

development”, and not “sustainability”, sustainable development means

“development” or “growth” that can be continuous. For example, using

sustainable fabric to replace the disposable material to reduce waste in the

production process. More, producers and consumers could make use of the slow

fashion products which last longer (Gardetti and Torres, 2015; Godart and Seong,

2015).

Likewise, “no growth” or “restricted growth” would not be acceptable for

wealthier developing countries (McManus, 1996). Therefore, based on this

principal, the sustainable development theory could also be applied to slow

fashion. Although, this concept supports the economy, improving the efficiency

and society, it advocates the attached importance to the environment and nature.

However, even though the concept of sustainability seems like it could be

acceptable, it’s more challenging to apply. There are three mainstream

dimensions of sustainability trends, which as mentioned before are,

environmental, social, and economic (Adams, 2006). These three dimensions can

be defined as follows; Environmental sustainability is the ability to harvest

resources at a level/rate whereby the renewable resources can be maintained

indefinitely. This same level of sustainability also applies to pollution creation, as

well as non-‐renewable resource depletion, whereby they can also be sustained

17

indefinitely. Economic sustainability is the means whereby a set level of

economic production can be upheld indefinitely. In the same manner, social

sustainability is the well-‐being of a social system at a defined level that is

maintained indefinitely.

Environmental sustainability is the ability to harvest resources at a level/rate

whereby the renewable resources can be maintained indefinitely. This same

level of sustainability also applies to pollution creation, as well as non-‐renewable

resource depletion, whereby they can also be sustained indefinitely.

Moreover, based on the same concept, the theory “Triple Bottom Line” (TBL or

3BL) is a framework about the pillars of sustainability, which are Profit, People

and Planet (Elkington, 1998). For those 3P, TBL could also state the three

different capitals which are social, environmental and traditional financial

capital theory. Although, according to a MIT study “Sustainability nears a tipping

point” (Audretsch et al., 2012) stated TBL could improve corporate sustainability,

competitive advantages and improved innovation. Therefore, as a sustainable

corporation should set up a clear target and also plan a concrete strategy to

benefits the sustainability of a firm (Hammer, Babcock and Moosbrugger, 2015;

Scott, 2012).

According to Elkington (1998), being a sustainable industry should balance those

three facts. For example, Goodland (1995, p.3) mentioned that the sustainability

of the economy is same as “maintenance of capital”. Through this capital

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maintenance, financial feasibility is possible as well as the ability to influence the

stakeholders to organize the economic conditions (Ramjohn, 2008). Secondly,

the sustainability of societies aim is to create welfare for people through cultural

identity, diversity and equity. More, environmental sustainability uses the

products with renewable substitutes that help to reduce waste (Goodland, 1995;

Ramjohn, 2008).

Therefore, it is important for retailers to take on a main focus on consumers for

sustainability, whereby companies show a complete use of sustainability that is

wholly combined into company offers and policies. (Sheth, Sethia and Srinivas,

2010). Moreover, even though the price of a slow fashion product can be quite

high, it can reflect its costs in its social and environmental value. The sustainable

slow fashion items are not only about reusability or resale, but also about the

relationship between consumers, workers and suppliers. By raising the slow

fashion products qualities to reduce overconsumption, slow fashion can help to

build a sustainable future.

2.5 Slow fashion product attributes.

In a way, slow fashion products may make people think that it is a kind of

anti-‐fashion. Yet, according to Bourland (2011), the product attributes of slow

fashion includes fair trade, sustainable, ethical, quality, or handmade products all

with organic fabrics. Although, slow fashion products can be worn/used for more

than one season, it should not look unfashionable. Moreover, it may confuse

19

consumers if the products they wear are worn for multiple seasons, though it

could be one type of slow fashion. However, the slow fashion product attributes

should be considered with the way workers make the products as well as the

materials suppliers used.

Research points out that slow fashion product are becoming mainstream within

the fashion retail industry (Pookulangara and Shephard, 2013). Due to economic

depression, consumers are increasingly selective in their consumption, and

rather choose to purchase the actual necessities for daily life (Bourland, 2011;

Jung, 2014)

However, the attributes of slow fashion products are not only about the organic

or handmade, but the deeper meaning being fair trade which will lead slow

fashion to become more ethical and sustainable. The Canadian Fair Trade

Network (2015) created a campaign, “The Label Doesn't Tell the Whole Story”.

For this movement, the major aim is to bring the ethical awareness up to

rethinking the problem of textile production and manufacturing in the retail

industry, especially when the sweatshop scandals continue to occur. For example,

the image (See Image 2.5.1) below, shows that illegal child labor occurs under

improper and unfair working conditions which the consumers do not know of.

Therefore, slow fashion ideals and products could help educate consumers to

purchase products in intelligent ways and also create ethical and sustainable

consumer behaviors.

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2.6 The impact of slow fashion

Nowadays, there are still challenges for the slow fashion movement. The

consumers still feel quite contradictory when choosing sustainable or ethical

products (Joy et al., 2012; Chang and Jai, 2015; Lang, Armstrong and Brannon,

2013; McNeill and Moore, 2015). Although fast fashion has advantage in price

and supply speed, the products’ quality is usually quite low, thus, it results in a

continuously growing amount of raw fabric waste. According to the studies from

Li et al. (2014) sustainability governance is an important role for the fast fashion

supply chain, in such as H&M adopting mechanism integrating both internal and

external to achieve the sustainable supply chain in fast fashion. Additionally, Li et

al. (2014) also established seven experiences for the sustainable attributes of

fashion products, TCQSERP, which are time, cost, quality, service, environment,

resource and people, as a behavior that should govern and lead a sustainable

supply chain.

Moreover, according to Karl-‐Johan Persson, H&M CEO, “Adding sustainability

value to our products is one of the keys to strengthen our customer offering.”

(H&M'S Conscious actions sustainability reports, 2012, P.3). Thus, through

sustainable governance management, one can also create a new opportunity for

the long-‐term business strategy. It can also influence others indirectly.

Therefore, from the literature above, slow fashion’s impact could be a broad

interpretation for corporate social responsibility (CSR), ecological protection and

21

fair trade. It is more like a lifestyle when consumers choose to purchase the

products of slow fashion. On the other side, the narrow interpretation of the

impact of slow fashion is that it could be explained as a governance function of

human rights, environment care, ethics and sustainability. The study by Deng

(2015) shows that slow/fast fashion firms should also take the responsibility for

the social aspect to remind consumers of ethical purchasing awareness and the

inertia of the purchasing behavior.

2.7 The consumer’s motivation of slow fashion

As a consumer, purchases are usually made with a form of motivation behind

them. By dissecting the process behind the motivation we can better understand

the consumers’ needs and thoughts (Dowd and Burke, 2013).

The fast fashion consumers do not give much thought when purchasing goods as

the price is usually low or convenient. The mass production of fast fashion also

shortens production time, so consumers can easily follow the fast fashion trends

blindly (Armstrong and Brannon, 2013; McNeill and Moore, 2015).

On the other hand, slow fashion changes consumers’ habits and also satisfies

consumers’ social and fashion needs (Li et al. 2014). This helps slow fashion

consumers, to better understand where the products come from and how the

apparels could help the consumers make the right consumer decisions. More, the

slow fashion consumers are seeking high quality and sustainable commodities,

which through the purchase of slow fashion merchandise can also motivate the

22

moral attitude and ethical self-‐identity (Dowd and Burke, 2013). Although, on

the opposite side, slow fashion also means lower production speeds, higher

prices and products being produced in smaller quantities but at higher quality

(Fletcher, 2010).

Furthermore, Table 2.7.1 shows the three major differences between slow

fashion consumers and fast fashion consumers. From slow fashions point of view,

the consumer values the products’ versatility, nice fit, high quality and also that it

would not fade out with each season (Modified Jung, 2014) For style, slow

fashion consumers prefer the classic and timeless. More, the slow fashion

consumers are willing to pay more for the products, since there are higher prices

due to the lower production output. On the other hand, the fast fashion

consumers’ choice depends on the buyer’s affordability and quantity because the

fast fashion consumers prefer replaceable clothes with every fashion season.

Hence, the consumers are looking for low quality and shorter lifespan wear in

order to facilitate following the fashion trends to feel unique and also be

provided with a variety of fashionable clothing. Nevertheless, when the style is

out of the fashion trend, the consumers will likely discard or throw out the

apparels for their next new fashion items.

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Table 2.7.1: The difference between slow and fast fashion consumers (Modified Jung, 2014)

2.8 Summery

Clothing worn for fashion throughout the ages has held influence, and influenced

social standing in various ways and has always been an important factor in social

standing throughout history. As fashion in clothing has become more and more

prominent in our daily lives and still impacts our social standings to a degree, the

production of clothing items on mass scale has in recent years become the norm

in our society in order to meet the consumer demands, as the perceived value of

textile and clothing has changed, resulting in a rapid discard culture (Fletcher,

2010). Due to the increase in fast fashion production on a mass scale, the amount

of fashion waste has increased greatly in recent years as fast fashion is now

24

produced in excess.

Thus a counterbalance in fashion industry had begun to emerge with the name of

slow fashion. Slow fashion started to emerge with a focus on bringing ethical and

sustainable products to consumers as a way to combat the waste of non-‐recycled

fast fashion. A slow fashion movement started that aimed to bring sustainable

values to fashion and focused on quality over quantity (Fletcher, 2007).

Companies through transparency in their supply chain have begun to adopt slow

fashion values in order to reduce waste and achieve a good level of corporate

social responsibility as consumers now pay closer attention to the qualities of

their purchases and how they are made (Gargi and Ha-‐Brookshire, 2011).

(Image 2.5.1) Source: The Canada Fair Trade Network

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CHAPTER 3 -‐-‐ RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

In this chapter, we follow the research methods used in order to gain

understanding and summarize the gathered data through analysis performed.

We begin the research method with section 3.1 whereby the process begins with

the expansion on the aims and objectives of the research and further delving into

the philosophies behind the research in section 3.2. Section 3.3 defines the

approach taken in gathering the necessary research data and the reasoning

thereof. Section 3.4 further explains the research methodology, instruments used

and their outcomes. Section 3.5 will address the methods undertaken to analyze

the data that was gathered. To conclude chapter 3, the ethical considerations and

limitations of this study will be discussed

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3.1 Aim and objective

Table 3.1.1: The key research of this study is restated

Content

Aim The aim of this study is to develop a new theoretical framework that sheds light on consumer merchandises’ adoption of slow

fashion based on the understanding, perception, and awareness of slow fashion.

Objective 1 To understand the consumer’s thoughts on slow fashion.

Objective 2 To identify consumer behaviors and motivations toward slow

fashion.

Objective 3 To explore the consumer concerns, slow fashion faces in entering

into the fashion industry.

3.2 Research philosophy

Saunders at el. (2012) stated that the aim of research philosophy is offering

assumptions and a way of research. Through the research philosophy the

researcher can ensure that its context is consistent rather than contradictory

(Tashakkori and Teddlie, 1998).

Although, for the philosophy of research, Saunders at el. (2012) stated that there

are few characteristics, which are ontology, epistemology and axiology.

Ontology is focused on multiple realities and subjectivity of realities to

understand the phenomenon from multiple perspectives by capturing subjective

views and experiences. Epistemology focuses on close connections with

participants and phenomenon. Axiology’s action is discussing the background,

27

beliefs and biases to understand the influence for the research process

(Saunders at el., 2012)

Positivism and realism are also widely used philosophies as positivism deals

with the uncovering of a single or specific truth regarding how things are, or

based on what the focus is, such as singling out casual relationships as a known

probability which can be applied in making predictions. Realism deals with

objects that exist regardless or independently of our knowledge, thoughts and

beliefs and can be interpreted through social conditioning.

Saunders at el. (2012) suggests that pragmatism could help the researcher’s

ideas to be clearer as well as help to explain in a way that is more relative to

reality. Moreover, based on pragmatism, Saunders et al. (2012) stated that

ontology is a concept of the nature of reality. Again, Ontology has been defined

by Baikie (1993) as “the science or study of being” And covers aspects that relate

to reality. Baikie (1993) also said that “Ontology is a system of belief that reflects

an interpretation of an individual about what constitutes a fact” Thus, Ontology

can be described as having two aspects, which are, objectivism and subjectivism.

Objectivism represents the point of view whereby social entities are present in

the real world outside of, and independent of social affecters. The second

aspect of ontology is subjectivism whereby social occurrences/phenomena are

caused by the views held and actions taken that are affected by social

affecters/actors. Therefore, we can categorize aspects of our research based on

whether viewpoints are taken as objective or subjective.

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Another philosophy used is interpretivism which deems that it is required for

the researcher to be able to understand human differences and how they play a

part in our social actions. Thus, as a large majority of the research will be

conducted with people, it is important to understand that as humans, we have

our own outlooks on the world around us, and in our own ways, make sense of

the world around us. With symbolic interactionism, human beings are in a

constant process of analysis and interpretation of our social surroundings. This

is done in such a way in that the actions of those whom we interact with are

constantly being interpreted, which leads to changes and adjustments in our

own actions and meanings as human beings.

In conducting the research, we will undertake an empathetic stance and

understanding on the research subjects’ viewpoints to clearly interpret

information gathered. Using these research philosophies, we can better measure

the content of research gathered and relationships regarding slow and fast

fashion.

3.3 Research approach

As the research philosophy has been classified as using ontology and

interpretivism, we can advance to the second layer of Saunder’s research onion

(2012). This section defines the research approach that will be used to ensure

that the data gathered is applicable and functional in accordance to the

researchers’ expectations.

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3.3.1 Inductive

Detailed in Saunders research onion, the two research approaches are inductive

and deductive. An inductive approach “essentially reverses the process found in

deductive research” (Lancaster, 2005, p.25). Specifically, in an inductive

approach, theories are absent at the start of the research and theories will begin

to develop and evolve as an outcome/result of the research. Lancaster stated

that “Inductive reasoning is based on learning from experience. Patterns,

resemblances and regularities in experience (premise) are observed in order to

reach conclusions or to generate theory” (2005, p25).

In an inductive approach, theories are absent at the start of the research and

theories will begin to develop and evolve as an outcome/result of the research.

Inductive reasoning is based on learning from experience.

Thus, as valuable research data is collected by the researcher, observations and

patterns can be made to develop into a new theory for the research outcome.

It is clear that the inductive approach matches the research method and will be

used in this study to build up a new theoretical framework on slow fashion in the

fashion industry.

3.4 Research methodolog

A research methodology can be defined as a means to gain knowledge through

studying methods in order to provide a plan for research. (Chinnathambi,

Philominathan and Rajasekar, 2013, p.5). In order to conduct our research, a

30

research method is required. This section will introduce the chosen research

method and strategies used that will allow the research and data gathered to

reach its expected outcome.

3.4.1 Qualitative method

There are two definitive research methods one would encounter when looking

into research methods (Saunders at el. 2012). Those two research methods are

qualitative and quantative research methods. When using a qualitative research

approach, it is possible to tell if a variable is relevant or not regarding the

issue/problem or situation, based on the understanding that it developed whilst

performing qualitative research.

When comparison is made on quantative research as “counting”, qualitative

research can be viewed as showing which variables are to be counted (Saunders

at el., 2012).

A qualitative research approach will also often commence with an inductive

approach as is used in this research.

qualitative research is also credited to be more subjective in relation to the

researcher’s views instead of generalization. As the area of focus of the research

pertains to the attributes of people, organizations and data based on opinions,

the qualitative research strategy will allow the research to reach its research

objective.

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3.4.2 Case study

Another research strategy that will be used in this study will be a case study.

According to Denscombe (2004, p.32) “Case studies focus on one, or a few

instances, of a particular phenomenon with a view to providing an in-‐depth

account of events, relationships, experiences or processes occurring in that

particular instance”. The fashion and apparel company H&M have in recent years

made changes to the way they run their supply chain. These changes have

enabled H&M to become more ethical and sustainable. For this reason, H&M will

be the target of my research for the case study.

According to its design, case study research method can be divided into three

categories: explanatory, descriptive and exploratory (Yin 2003). As we are using

a qualitative method in our research, and the aim is to answer the questions of

the ‘how’ and ‘why’ based on our research aim and objectives, we can determine

that the case study will fall under the explanatory category. One of the

advantages of using a case study is that the method includes the collection and

analysis of data within the context of the study. Qualitative data can be

integrated in data analysis and complexities of real life situations can be

captured for increased depth.

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3.5 Data collection and analysis

3.5.1 Data collection

As a data collection could be separate by two categories, which are primary and

secondary (Saunders at el., 2012). For the primary data collection, an advantage

of primary research is that researcher could use specific purposes to analyze the

data to further answer the main objective of this original research. Otherwise, in

order to help this study to reach completion, the secondary data collection will

use other selected information from previous research or journals to compare

with (Saunders at el., 2012). Hence, in order to respond deeply with this

exploratory research, the primary data collection adopt semi-‐structured

interview, further the textual and industry analysis will use for secondary data

collection.

3.5.1.1 Primary data collection – Semi-‐structured interviews

According to Cassell and Symon (2004) stated that the interview is way to

produce qualitative research, although there are three types of interview, which

are structured, semi-‐structured and unstructured interview. In this study, the

semi-‐structured interview will be adopted for primary data collection. The

semi-‐structured interview helps researcher to define the topic to be explored

from key questions and also allows the interviewers to provide more of an idea

or detail (Somekh and Lewin, 2005; King and Horrocks, 2010). Otherwise, the

other advantage of semi-‐structured interview is that it can provide reliable,

33

comparable qualitative data. It could also be adopted for an exploratory study

(Clifford and Valentine, 2003; Kvale and Brinkmann, 2009; Sanders et al. 2012).

The primary data will be based on two types of consumers, slow and fast fashion

consumers, to explore slow fashion’s challenges consumer behavior and

motivation in the fashion industry. Furthermore, a case study will be performed

on one or a few fast/slow fashion companies to analyze the new trend of the

fashion industry. As an interview is qualitative research, to achieve quality

insight in this research, all the interviewers should have comprehensive

knowledge about the slow and fast fashion industry and fully understand their

own consumer motivation. Hence, all interviewees will be asked the same

questions and will get the questions of the semi-‐structured interview a week

prior. More, during the interview, the researcher will be allowed to record the

conversation to later be transcribed and summarize the content of the interview.

(See Appendix 1)

For the semi-‐structured interview, there are three objects for the interviewees,

which are (1) to define the slow fashion (2) to identify consumer behaviors and

motivations toward slow fashion (3) to explore the challenges slow fashion faces

in entering into the fashion industry. More, this research will adopt face to face

interviews and take approximately one hour on average.

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3.5.1.2 Secondary data collection – Documentary

The secondary data method assists researchers to gain a better understanding of

data for the study. There are three types or ways for the secondary data

collection, which are: documentary, survey and multiple source (Sanders et al.

2012). Therefore, in this study, the secondary data adopted the primary raw data

to compare with compiled data from documentary research. However, the

secondary data collection should consider its reliability and validity

(Trzesniewski, Donnellan and Lucas, 2011; Goodwin, 2012). The secondary data

in this research obtained its information from the slow/fast fashion firm’s annual

report, internal documents and website. Furthermore, the framework was

completed from the interviews as part of the primary data collection, thus, the

secondary data was combined with the primary raw data in this research.

3.5.2 Data analysis

Data analysis for this study will be performed on both primary and secondary

data collection methods used. The primary data collection method will be

performed in the style of semi-‐structured interviews as mentioned above. The

data produced by this method will be in the form of audio recordings and will

later be transcribed into textual form. Once the primary data is collected and

transcribed, the data will be categorized against the research objectives.

The secondary data collection method will be in the form of content analysis of a

case study. Both data sources will be in the form of qualitative data. Saunders et

35

al. (2012) proposed that it is possible for researchers to notice/identify issues

and apparent themes from data that they have collected.

Thus, once the data and materials are gathered and categorized for both the

primary and secondary data collection methods, the data can be analyzed further

in comparative means against the initial research findings, questions, aims and

objectives to form patterns and theories.

3.6 Ethical considerations

When researchers perform studies on things such as human behavior, medical

advances or technological devices, while at the same time measuring or taking

into account the human response and feelings regarding the potential research

outcomes, it can be defined as ethical consideration in research (Dana Lynn

Driscoll, 2012).

According to Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill (2012), “Ethical principles can be

discussed in two prominent parts, regarding: the rights of participants, and issues

relating to data collection and analysis.”

When researchers perform studies on things such as human behavior, medical

advances or technological devices, while at the same time measuring or taking

into account the human response and feelings regarding the potential research

outcomes, it can be defined as ethical consideration in research (Dana Lynn

Driscoll, 2012).

During the conduct of this research, ethical considerations were managed and

upheld throughout the processes of the research according to GCU’s code of

36

ethics and guidelines. Following this strict code of conduct ensures that there are

no harmful effects caused by this study to any individuals or to the reputation of

the university and the organization. All content and research data will be safely

stored, and remain unedited, upholding the integrity of the research. Informed

consent will be acquired from all interview participants and affirmation will be

provided verbally to the research respondents that any information they provide

would be handled with respect, confidentiality and anonymity. All participants in

the study are ensured that their participation in the study is entirely voluntarily

and that termination of their involvement can be actioned at any point of their

choosing.

3.7 Limitations

In this section we determined and highlighted the factors that led to, or caused

limitation to the study. Christensen and Engdahl (2001) stated, that in order for

a qualitative study to be credible and valid, any data that is presented should be

presented openly and should be analyzed and collected systematically.

In this study, a semi-‐structured interview process is used. The limitation of this

method is that reliability of the data can be of concern as the interview approach

is not standardized, thus, it is possible for other researchers to obtain different

research results (Easterby-‐Smith et al., 2008).

Another limitation noted on the interview process regards data biases. This can

take place as interviewee and response bias. In order to insert a degree of

37

control over this limitation, a varied selection of interview candidates will be

gathered to provide a range of data. Finally, A case study will be undertaken

whereby the access to official company data, reports and records may be limited.

3.8 Summery

The aim and objective of this study is to successfully develop a new theoretical

framework on slow fashions position in the fashion industry based on the

understanding, perception, and public awareness of slow fashion through the

collection of the data and research performed for this study. With focus on this

objective we identified suitable research methodologies and philosophies to best

fit the research approach and data collection methods used in the study. As the

target for the study is partly based on the interpretation of an individual’s views

of the facts of slow fashion and ethical purchasing in today’s society (conducted

by way of semi-‐structured interviews), we highlighted ontology, which has two

aspects, objectivism and subjectivism. Another philosophy that was used is

interpretivism. Using these philosophies, we began an inductive approach with

no starting point in developing the theory we aimed to develop for meeting our

objective. Using a qualitative method, we are able to decide which factors to

measure in our research and which variables to count.

By also focusing part of the research on a case study of large reputable

companies (H&M) that have made recent changes to be more sustainable, and by

investigating their motives for change, we can compare our interpreted research

38

from the collected data of the semi-‐structured interviews performed with that of

the explanatory data of the case study to form the basis of our new theory.

39

CHAPTER 4 -‐-‐ DATA ANALYSIS AND FINDINGS

This chapter describes the full analysis and findings from the data collection

from the research methods used as described in chapter 3.

Furthermore, the data and findings of the interviews are discussed and

interpreted subjectively to form conclusions for the framework outcome.

Finally, the research findings and conclusions reached from the interviews and

case study, are analyzed and compiled to form the slow fashion framework.

4.1 Data collection methods

In order to gather the required data for analysis, semi-‐structured interviews

were carried out with eighteen interviewees. The interviews were conducted

with a range of people who spanned across the fast fashion, slow fashion

industry as well as members of the general public. The respondents from the

slow fashion industry were from a slow fashion boutique as well as from a slow

fashion pop-‐up shop marketplace, where the owners and a few store assistants

agreed to be interviewed, whereas the fast fashion consumers who were

interviewed worked for the retail store Zara. Furthermore, members of the

general public were interviewed in locations that both supported slow fashion

and fast fashion environments/surroundings such as in the Westfield shopping

center and the slow fashion pop-‐up shop marketplace. All the questions were

answered fully, the data was not tampered with, consent forms were signed by

the respondents, and according to the respondents, all questions were answered

40

to the best of their knowledge and all the gathered interview data was valid. The

interview questions were written up independently after the research objectives

were examined and further research was conducted to determine which aspects

of fast and slow fashion to focus on. A small informal focus group was held to

further discuss the questions and improve upon them. The interview questions

were then categorized to have the questions answered against the three main

research objectives for ease of analysis. The research objectives themselves

aimed to obtain the information that uncovered the consumer’s thoughts and

understanding on slow fashion as well as what would be found as the consumer’s

motivators and behavioral affecters towards slow fashion. Lastly, the concerns

the consumers felt slow fashion faced in entering into the fashion industry was

set as the final objective. The research objectives can be seen in chapter 3.

Furthermore, a case study was performed on the company H&M (Hennes and

Mauritz AB) in order to determine what changes were made recently in their

move toward and their introduction of slow fashion within H&M as well as the

reasons why. A textual analysis was performed on the company’s official

documentation as well as 3rd party documentation on H&M.

Conclusions and findings derived from the case study analysis were compared

and compiled with the conclusions and findings of the semi-‐structured

interviews to form our slow fashion framework.

41

4.2 Consumer variables recognized at the personal and situational levels toward slow fashion and ethical purchasing.

4.2.1 Characteristic variables

The interviews were conducted amongst a varied selection of interviewees, from

placements both in the slow fashion industry as well as in the fast fashion

industry. Additionally, interviewees whom were not actively involved, or in

either of the industries were also selected from two separate locations at

random. The ages of the interviewees ranged between 21 and 57 years old.

During the interview process, the interviewees were often aware of the

connection regarding what was morally correct and ethical purchasing and

continually said that they would engage in the act of ethical purchasing as much

as possible. However, whilst the interviews progressed, it was found that

contradiction had begun to appear between what the interviewees had said and

what their behavior ended up as.

One of the respondents said, “I support ethical products and when I am in a store I

make the comparisons”. Later the same respondent replied to a separate question

on identifying slow fashion products saying, “I’m not sure I know enough to say

which product is ethically produced”.

Even though the interviewees often said that they felt a responsibility to take

action, it was often followed up with excuses as to why the purchasing of ethical

products was difficult.

42

As an example, some of the interviewees found it difficult to tell the difference

between the slow and fast fashion products whereas other interviewees stated

that they did not know enough about slow fashion or ethical purchasing to do so

themselves but rather that they supported it on an emotional level.

Thus, even though information on slow fashion is available in public domain,

consumers do not actively seek out the information (Jones et al., 2007).

4.2.2 Ethical perception/consciousness

During the interviews, it was stated by some of the interviewees that for ethical

reasons, they no longer purchased fast fashion, however, others held the view

that even if they engaged in the purchasing of slow fashion products, that many

other consumers would continue to buy fast fashion products regardless. Those

who stated that they only bought slow fashion or ethical products believed that

their behavior would make a difference whereas those purchasing fast fashion

saw their behavior as having no influence or impact on market trends even if

they did change their consumption pattern.

4.2.3 Quality perception/consciousness

One characteristic that was picked up during the interview process was that a

fair number of the interviewees showed interest in slow fashion and ethical

products however did not purchase them because of a poor preconceptions of

the quality.

43

Some of the interviewees shared the belief that companies who attempted to be

‘green’ or eco-‐friendly and adhered to corporate social responsibility (CSR) were

in fact making sacrifices with product quality in doing so. On the other hand, the

interviewees who often purchased slow fashion products stated that the quality

of the slow fashion products were almost always of higher quality than that of

the fast fashion found in regular stores. Active slow fashion purchasers clearly

discern the quality differences between the fast and slow fashion products and

supported companies that adhered to CSR.

The interviewees who thought slow fashion or ethical products to be of lower

quality were unable to discern the difference between slow and fast fashion

products when later asked to identify slow fashion products from a selection of

slow and fast fashion items.

4.2.4 Value/price perception

During the interview process, when addressing the prices, it was a general

consensus that the price of a product was very important. The majority of the

interviewees shared the view that when purchasing products like fashion that

they were more lenient on purchasing products that weren’t always the cheapest

rather than how they approached buying everyday goods such as groceries. The

interviewees expressed that they would be happy to see prices in slow fashion

similar to what would be found with fast fashion products and that they would

engage in ethical purchasing if the prices were lower. One of the interviewees

44

said, “I always shop around for the best prices… purchasing clothing items is no

exception unless I am spoiling myself!... if there are two similar products side by

side and one was ethically made but at a higher price, I would probably buy the

cheaper one. Give me the slow fashion item at the same price and I would gladly

buy the slow fashion product with a clear conscience”.

Whilst another stated, “I would like to buy more ethically produced products, but I

can’t always pay the higher prices they come with”.

The interviewees also said that they would pay higher prices for particular items

depending on the items branding and claimed that this concept would also be

true if they could identify popular brands amongst slow fashion items. When

asked, it was clear that all but a few of the respondents looked at the price of a

product before checking its quality and some did not make a comparison

between quality of material and the prices of the products at all but rather came

to the conclusion that the quality of the items were based on the items initial

price and branding, where higher prices were perceived to be of higher quality.

The respondents made it clear that the pricing of a product can influence their

buying behavior and was indeed a powerful factor in the marketing strategies for

them. High prices coupled with ethical purchasing was perceived as the price

you had to pay for ethical products such as slow fashion, whereas high priced

fast fashion was perceived to carry other benefits in relation to its pricing.

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4.2.5 Social surroundings

Another factor found that was found to impact the perceptions of the

interviewees were their social surroundings and physical surroundings. The

interviewees said that they were very much influenced by their social

surroundings and that they often made purchase decisions based on social

influence of either their friends, the latest fashion trends, or from friends that are

with them when they make the purchases. Some of the interviewees said that

they supported ethical purchasing however at times when they are surrounded

by their friends, that they succumb to pressures of buying what they suggested

or bought products that were seen as mainstream. Thus it is clear that social

surroundings play a large part in influencing purchase decisions.

4.2.6 Physical surroundings

The interviewees also made it clear that physical surroundings played a major

factor in their purchasing of ethical and slow products. Factors such a distance,

and convenience came up as some of the interviewees said they would not go

long distance, or travel out of their way to purchase ethical or slow products.

Other physical surroundings include marketing environments and product

placements also affected the interviewees purchase decisions as they said that it

was difficult to identify slow fashion products if there was a large selection on

the shelves. Thus it is clear that physical surroundings also play a large part in

influencing purchase decisions.

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4.2.7 Ethical cognitive effort

In the interviews, we asked the interviewees to identify particular items, brands

or companies that were ethical. This exercise was carried out to see if the

respondents could, with their own knowledge, identify ethical marketing

activities or whether a company is or has been engaged in ethical activities.

Only a quarter of the interviewees were able to identify the ethical/socially

responsible companies and less than ten percent of the interviewees were able

to say which companies were the worst when it came to being ethically and

socially responsible.

Again, many of the interviewees expressed that they indeed wanted to purchase

ethical goods but commented that it was not always easy for them to tell which

products were ethical and which weren’t. They said that branding of products is

not always clear and that the same applied to slow fashion products. A symbol

almost all of the interviewees could identify was the fair trade symbol found on

many products in the supermarkets.

Apart from the fair trade symbol, the majority of the interviewees shared that

they did not have enough knowledge of slow fashion and ethical products in

order to easily identify them.

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4.3 Case study – H&M

The researcher has based this case study on the fast fashion company H&M

(Hennes and Mauritz AB), , due to H&M being one of the leading fast fashion

firms. Through comparison with fast fashion (H&M) and slow fashion, it is

possible to analyze slow fashion’s importance in the fashion market.

In 2013, there was a fatal garment factory accident in which a factory collapsed.

This incident became a well-‐known tragedy in the fast fashion industry (BBC

News, 2013). Even though, the leading fast fashion firm, H&M, is the biggest

purchaser in Bangladesh. After this painful history lesson, the awareness of the

needs pertaining to slow fashion had started as a movement which made an

impact within H&M (Joy et al., 2012). The slow fashion movement calls for

accountability through all steps in the clothes making process, thus, many

fashion retailers started to focus on their supply chain and clothes making

processes. There is a group that Initiated the global movement of slow fashion,

called ‘Fashion Revolution’. Their aim was to create an accountable fashion

industry with safer, fairer and transparent processes (Fashionrevolution.org,

2015).

However, interestingly, H&M who is the largest fast fashion retailers in the

textile industry released a sustainability report in 2013. In this report, the CEO of

H&M, Karl-‐Johan Persson wrote, “At H&M, we have set ourselves the challenge of

48

ultimately making fashion sustainable and sustainability fashionable. I’m very

excited to see the progress we have made so far and how this will help us to

make you an even better offer -‐ and create a more sustainable fashion future”

(Conscious Actions Highlights, 2013, p.3).

Furthermore, in the conscious actions sustainability report in 2014, H&M stated

that they are going to fully use organic cotton for their products in 2020 and also

use 100% certified wool from 2017 (See image 4.3.1 and 4.3.2). More, through

this report, H&M show that they increased their use of recycled materials by five

percent since 2012 to 2014 (See image 4.3.3). In regards to the impact on the

climate, H&M promises to massively reduce climate impacts by only using

renewable electricity in 2015 (See image 4.3.4) (Sustainability.hm.com, 2014).

Yet, even though H&M is trying to create a sustainable fashion future, there are

still many researchers who questioned whether the concept of fast fashion could

be sustainable. In regards to fast fashion, as previously discussed in chapter 2

fast fashion’s attributes are low cost, low quality, mass production and a short

lifespan. Therefore, to answer the question of fast fashions sustainability, Wang

et al. (2012) stated that “The phrase “fast fashion” refers to low-‐cost clothing

collections that mimic current luxury fashion trends. Fast fashion helps sate

deeply held desires among young consumers in the industrialized world of

luxury fashion, even as it embodies unsustainability.

49

Trends run their course with lightning speed, with today’s latest styles swiftly

trumping yesterday’s, which have already been consigned to the trash bin”. In

Godelnik’s article, “Can fast fashion really be sustainable” (2014) the researcher

noticed that one of fashion brands, Zara, had called it “Mcfashion” because of the

speed of production and the poor quality. The throw away culture of fast fashion

is already an ongoing practice amongst the younger generation and recycling

and repurposing of unused fashion items rarely takes place.

The biggest retailer in the world, H&M launched a ‘collect clothing’ global system

from 2014 (Sustainability.hm.com, 2014). The aim of this global system is so that

it could reduce the pollution from old clothes and also use recycled fabric or

organic cotton to produce more items. However, from the previous chapters we

can see that fast fashion is unsustainable, therefore, H&M changed their

company philosophy to show the importance of sustainability and ethics in the

fashion industry. Although the concept of fast fashion and slow fashion are

mutually contradictory, regardless of production speed or the materials used

because fast fashion is also disposable fashion. For example, in the book

“Over-‐dressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion”, Cline (2012)

mentioned that, on average, people buy eight pairs of shoes and sixty-‐eighty

items of clothes every year in America and processes five tons of used textile in

New York each day. Therefore, when H&M presented the view of fast fashion as

sustainable, it was seen as a tough issue.

50

However, according to Restorick’s (2015) interview Karl-‐Johan Persson, the

leader of H&M, mentioned that if fast fashion responds to sustainable and ethical

questions, the sustainability of fast fashion should grow with 100% of their

energy coming from renewable resources and that with new technologies, would

be able to create a close loop economy which doesn’t cause or create damage to

the environment. More, the challenge for fast fashion is that consumers have

started to place less value on the clothing they buy because of those ambitions,

which in turn results in increased waste in future.

Therefore, through the fully closed loop recycling, the economy can make

consumers take more responsibility for their clothes and also urge them to wear

or share secondhand or recycle clothes. For example, from the research, 87

percent of consumers would like to know the firm’s social and environmental

commitment before their purchase (Cone Communications Echo Global CSR

Study, 2013), and another research shows 50 percent of consumers willing to

contribute to the community even though they need to pay more for items and

services from supply chain (Nielsen, 2013).

51

(Image 4.3.1)

(Image 4.3.2)

52

(Image 4.3.3)

(Image 4.3.4)

53

CHAPTER 5 -‐-‐ RESEARCH DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

The research discussion and conclusion in this chapter will review the findings of

this study against the aims and objectives set out in this study. This section will

highlight the key results and discuss their significance. It will also further

recognize the limitations of the research and any implications of the findings.

5.1 Research discussion

An increasing amount of pressure is being put on industries to move to a

sustainable future (Connelly et al., 2010). This being said, the fashion industry

is no exception. Fast fashion as it currently is, is no longer seen as sustainable

and changes are, and have been made to address the requirement for

sustainability and ethical purchasing in the fashion industry (Joy et al., 2012).

One such change is the emergence of ‘slow fashion’ within the fashion industry

as a new emerging trend as consumers are spending more time considering what

they buy (Wood, 2009). Thus, the consumers are now making investments in

their fashion purchases where they expect an item to look good for years as well

as having a clear conscience in knowing the product was an ethical purchase

(slow fashion).

It is therefore increasingly important for retailers to integrate sustainability with

a focus on the consumer in order to raise awareness for slow fashion in their

product offers as consumer knowledge is lacking on slow fashion product details

whilst the motivation for ethical purchasing is found to be present.

54

During the interview process, it was found that most consumers were not able to

distinguish slow fashion products from fast fashion products due to a lack of

knowledge on slow fashion inhibiting their ability to make more informed

purchase decisions. Sproles et. al., said that in order for consumers to make

precise/efficient decisions that they must be fully informed (Sproles et al. 1978).

This is especially true as sustainable fashion such as slow fashion requires

knowledge and an understanding of issues that impact ethics and sustainability

along with its availability (Moisander et al., 2010).

the majority of consumers from our study are unable to distinguish slow fashion

products easily

Another resulting find from the interviews was that consumers considered slow

fashion and ethical purchasing to be cost more than that of fast fashion and held

that perception. With the worsening economy, consumers can no longer afford to

go off on large shopping sprees and need to make changes in the way they shop

to ensure they themselves are making more sustainable purchases that better fit

their lifestyles and budgets (Connelly et al., 2010).

Further results from the interview process produced evidence that consumers

would engage in ethical purchasing when there was no added expense or

deemed loss in quality

The slow fashion movement was not only developed to support the ethical

purchasing of slow fashion but was also developed to aid sustainability through

55

the encouragement of recycling and the reusing of garments (Fletcher, 2007).

This act in itself provides opportunity and growth to the apparel industry

through the opportunity of the repurposed garments being used by upcoming

designers or tailors.

Apart from availability and transparency of information, in regards to ethical

products and slow fashion, one would say that slow fashion lacks a definitive

promoting force behind it. H&M (Hennes and Mauritz AB) adopted sustainable

processes to ensure a more sustainable fashion future. As one of the leading fast

fashion retailers, H&M are leading by example in making this change as they

aimed to meet the ethical challenges fast fashion faced. H&H even launched a

‘collect clothing’ system/campaign in order to reduce pollution through the

encouragement of recycling which follows the core elements of the slow fashion

movement in order to reach sustainability. Although H&M posted improved

figures in their move to sustainability, those changes did not appear to reach or

be recognized by the interview participants even though a study performed by

H&M stated that 87 percent of consumers would like to know the firm’s social

and environmental commitment before making purchases.

Slow fashion itself and the act of moving toward sustainability and ethical

products don’t promote slow fashion or carry the information of the movement

well.

56

5.2 Research objectives, discussion and conclusion

The aim of this study was to successfully develop a new theoretical framework

on Slow fashions position in the fashion industry based on the understanding,

perception, and public awareness of slow fashion through the collection of data

and research performed. In order to reach the aim, three objectives were to be

met which were:

5.2.1 Understanding the consumer’s thoughts on slow fashion

Throughout this study, one clear thought that was recorded was that slow

fashion and the slow fashion movement was seen to be an ideal situation and

was something to strive toward. The difference was noted between the implied

intentions and the actions that were carried out whereby consumers whom said

they supported slow fashion did not take action to support their statements.

Slow fashion and ethical products were also thought of as being of lower quality

where sacrifices were thought to have been made in reaching the standards of an

ethical product. The consumers who participated in this study also shared their

perception on the pricing of slow fashion and ethical products where they

believed ethical products to be priced higher than that of fast fashion or

non-‐ethically produced products. In the end, this study highlighted that the

consumer’s thoughts on slow fashion and ethical purchasing were almost always

positive as a lifestyle or ideal, however when faced with taking action themselves,

the consumer’s thoughts moved to their perceived negative aspects of slow

fashion and ethical purchasing due to a lack of their knowledge which would

guide them in making ethical purchase decisions.

57

5.2.2 Identifying consumer behaviors and motivations toward slow fashion

The research gathered in this study has Identified the consumer behavior and

motivations toward slow fashion as situational. Consumers shared that if ethical

products were placed alongside non-‐ethical products, that the consumer would

make a comparison between the quality and price, often choosing the non-‐ethical

product if the price difference was too much. The purchasing of slow fashion was

only done when it seemed convenient and the price factor was a major factor on

whether the ethical products were considered for purchase. The consumer’s

motivations sided with slow fashion as the intention shared was always to

support ethical purchasing of slow fashion, however the behavior of the

consumer was with the comparison of products, and if a slow fashion product

did not stand out as much, or did not match a similar price point to that of fast

fashions pricing, it was usually not considered a viable purchase.

The motivation to purchase slow fashion products stemmed from the will to

improve on their lifestyles and to support ethical purchasing and sustainability

however the behavior of the participants often did not match their motivation

for positive change.

5.2.3 Exploring the challenges slow fashion faces in entering into the

fashion industry

This study explored the challenges that slow fashion faces in entering into the

fashion industry. Slow fashion and the slow fashion movement is not a new

concept but is becoming more prevalent in today’s fashion industry due to the

58

increased demand for businesses to become sustainable (Ringstrom, 2015).

Research performed in this study concluded that consumers are not informed

well enough regarding slow fashion and ethical products to make knowledgeable

ethical purchase decisions. Although information on slow fashion is available in

public domain, consumers do not actively seek out the information (Jones et al.,

2007). Thus slow fashion and ethical products are faced with the challenge of

raising awareness and presenting factual information regarding the ethical

products in a manner in which consumers can easily and quickly digest the

information to make fair comparison on purchases. Slow fashion and the slow

fashion movement carry the positivity of good ethics and sustainability however

the motivation of consumers to take part in ethical purchasing decreased when

social circles and society encouraged the purchasing of other non-‐ethical

products. Therefor one of the challenges slow fashion faces is in developing a

strong marketing strategy and promotional force that will guide consumers from

a societal viewpoint.

5.3 Slow fashions theoretical framework – conclusion

Slow fashion in the fashion industry can still be considered as in a state of

introduction (Joy et al., 2012). It is not quite fully accepted and is still being

slowly adopted. Slow fashion and the slow fashion movement, when adopted by

businesses in the textile and apparel industries, often found the concept to act as

a way of improving the businesses value chain behavior which often came

through the requirement to meet production/supply chain transparency.

59

Consumers are now equipped with a greater understanding of ethical

conduct/behaviors and the consequences thereof. Consumers outwardly express

their desire to be ethical and engage in ethical purchasing and the purchasing of

slow fashion but fail to do so because a lack of knowledge on slow fashion

product particulars is present even where information is accessible in public

domain (Jones et al., 2007). Slow fashion is about the quality of the product, not

the time it takes to produce. It is about the choice, cultural diversity, information

and identity and has the requirement of fast inspiration and imaginative change.

It’s about symbolic expression, durability and engagement for the long-‐term.

Slow fashion is about the quality of the product (Fletcher, 2007). The success of

slow fashion will mostly hang on how a company actively markets the slow

fashion products and in the way in which the designers are connected to the end

product with the way in with the marketing tells the designers story (Tran,

2008). This said, consumers are lacking in the practical knowledge on how to

identify slow fashion and ethical products. It is up to the companies to market

slow fashion in a way that reflects its quality and tells the story of the designer as

the consumers are lacking in awareness of slow fashions qualities.

Slow fashion is on the rise and is becoming more and more prevalent in stores,

yet the foundation of knowledge beyond general ethical awareness and

consequences is lacking on the consumer side.

Consumers continues to struggle in discerning the difference between fast and

slow fashion items. Companies should endeavor to improve marketing strategies

for slow fashion and ethical products in order to raise awareness for slow

60

fashion and ethical products to show consumers that slow fashion and ethical

products can be competitive.

5.4 Managerial implications

These days, consumers expect convenience and instant gratification. Therefor

the information on products should be readily available so that the consumers

can make informed purchase decisions (Gargi and Ha-‐Brookshire, 2011).

As the majority of consumers from our study are unable to distinguish slow

fashion products easily, retailers should attempt to bridge the knowledge gap in

their marketing strategies whereby the retailers provide information to the

customers should promotional strategies that are informative and educate the

consumers whilst also enhancing brand equity.

As results from this study produced evidence that consumers would engage in

ethical purchasing if it were at no additional expense, it is therefore suggested

that retailers use strategies that have the lowest effect on price difference in

order to urge consumers to make the ethical purchases.

Slow fashion itself and the act of moving toward sustainability and ethical

products don’t promote slow fashion or carry the information of the movement

well, it is proposed that additional promotional backing is required to raise

awareness of slow fashion. Celebrities have the tendency to draw attention for

61

environmental, human and animal rights, and these days often carry the power

as celebrity activists to endorse groups and influence a vast majority of

consumers (Winge, 2008). Retailers can help slow fashion gain popularity and

become more established through the effective use of celebrity endorsements as

celebrities are often used to promote products and increase consumer demand.

5.5 Limitations and recommendations for future research

The research gathered for this study and its findings are not a definitive result

for slow fashion and ethical purchasing and cannot fully represent the

populations views as the research that is gathered from only a few number of

interviewees multiple websites cannot encompass the populations views on slow

fashion.

A proposition for carrying out future study on this topic would be to increase the

sample size of the data gathered by increasing the range of study participants by

including participants of varied age groups, and participants from various ethnic

groups. In doing so, this study could get a better measure of slow fashions ability

to remain a part of the apparel industry as well as measure slow fashions impact

on the textile and apparel industry.

This study made user of semi-‐structured interviews which could be viewed as a

method with limitations, thus it would be advised as a means to increase this

studies validity and reliability to have the gathered data processed and discussed

in focus groups and further, have the data from the focus groups validated

through the use of a survey which should be compiled based on that data. The

62

survey should then be distributed to consumers. Additionally, this study also

made user of a case study on the company H&M. The research performed in this

case was limited to the availability of online literature and reports and could not

access company data that was not released to the public with a complete

breakdown of company statistics. It is therefore recommended for future

research that case studies be carried out on multiple companies who have both

adopted ethical and sustainable processes in line with the slow fashion

movement and companies that do not. Thus, data can be compared regarding

outcomes from both sustainable and unsustainable stand points whilst also

increasing validity of the comparative research over a range of companies.

63

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Appendix 1. Ethical Form

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Appendix 2. The question of Semi-‐structured interviews

Objective 1: To understand the consumer’s thoughts on slow fashion.

Q1: How do you identify slow fashion? Q2: In your opinion, what kind of products can be called/classed as slow fashion?

Why? Q3: What kind of the elements/factors could be slow fashion? Why?

Q4: Nowadays, slow fashion is seen as gradually becoming a new fashion trend/ movement. Facing this change, what kinds of things can improve slow fashion to

gain competitive advantage? Why? Q5: Take a look at the following product examples (show products) – can you

identify which of these are manufactured as slow fashion and which are fast fashion products?

Q6: Do you think your purchasing of slow fashion or ethical products helps the environment?

Q7: What do you think of the quality of ethically made products such as slow fashion?

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Object 2: To identify consumer behaviors and motivations toward slow fashion.

Q8: What were the last few fashion products you purchased and from where?

Q9: From the last fashion purchases you mentioned, are you able to recall or identify in which countries they were manufactured?

Q10: What factors will make you to purchase a slow fashion product? Why? Q11: For slow fashion, what kind of connections do you make between slow

fashion and morality/ethical purchasing? Q12: Are you able to identify any symbols on products you have purchased

recently that shows that a product was produced ethically? Q13: Do your social surroundings influence you to purchase slow fashion

products? Q14: Do your physical surroundings influence you to purchase ethical or slow

fashion products? Q15: Does the quality and price impact your decision to purchase slow fashion

products? Why? Q16: Would you consider making ethical purchases or slow fashion purchases if

they were by brands you frequently bought or recognized?

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Object 3 To explore the challenges slow fashion faces in entering into the fashion

industry. Q17: Nowadays, fast fashion is still the main trend for the fashion market. How

necessary do you think slow fashion in this market? Why? Q18: What do you think about companies or businesses that introduce slow

fashion and ethical products in their stores? Q19: Compared to the fast fashion, what do you think of the advantages and

disadvantages for slow fashion? Q20: For supply chain, slow fashion can’t achieve the mass production that fast

fashion can. Facing this disadvantage, do you think slow fashion will still keep consumer’s interest/patronage? How?

Q21: Demna Gvasalia (Balenciaga’s new designer) mentioned “I’m not really sure if the market actually demands all those clothes... (there) is a lot of money wasted

as well, on development, on selling things we don’t really need.” Do you think the slow fashion will become a new luxury trend? Why

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