SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA BEACH PROCESSES STUDYSOUTHERN CALIFORNIA BEACH PROCESSES STUDY

SCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANOGRAPHYSCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANOGRAPHY

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN DIEGOUNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN DIEGO

Beaches are Economic Drivers for Tourism

$millions/year in Southern California alone

LEUCADIA, CA – FEB 2002

Coastal erosion threatens public and private safety and property.

In-Situ ATV & JetSki Surveys: San Onofre and Torrey Pines

LIDAR

CDIP Wave Buoys

Insitu Survey

Instrumentation

Insitu Surveys:

Above Waterline (Exposed Beach) to Offshore (8m depth)

Torrey Pines

San Onofre

Optech LIDAR Instruments

(Light Detection and Ranging)

Altitude: 3000 ft

Swath Width: 600 ft

NorthwestSwell

Both San Onofre and Torrey Pines are exposed to North swell.

SouthSwell

Torrey Pines is sheltered from the South by Pt. La Jolla

San Onofre is exposed to South swell

What role does the wave climate play?

[m]

SAN ONOFRELow SeasonalVariation

TORREY PINES High Seasonal Variation

Exposed to southern swell - causing rapid beach recovery after storms

Partially sheltered from south swell – requires much longer time to recover

http://cdip.ucsd.edu/SCBPS

Point & Click Public Website

Ocean Observing CollaborationSeismic Reflection/MultiBeam/LIDAR/CHARTS

Coastal Observing Systems/ SIO Spatial Referencing Center