Post on 04-Jan-2016
description
Something Fishy this Way Comes: The How and Why
of Garum
Lori Kissell
Garum
• What is it?• How is it made?• Where/how is it traded?• How is it used?• Modern equivalents/descendants?
Garum – what is it?
• OLD: garum, -i (n) a highly esteemed fish sauce, prepared originally from the garos (unknown fish) but later chiefly from the scomber or mackerel
Garum – what is it?
• OLD: liquamen, -inis (n) [liquo + -men] a liquid fluid; (Spec., prob.) fish-sauce (garum)
• OLD: muria, -ae (f) also muries, -ei [dub] – brine used for pickling
Garum – what is it?
• OLD: muriaticus, -a, -um – soaked in brine, pickled, (Neut. Pl as sb) pickled fish
Garum – what is it?
• Cited by everyone!• Varro• Horace• Celsius• Seneca• Petronius• Pliny the Elder• Sextus Pompeius Festus
• Martial• Ulpius• Columella• Cato• Persius• Quintilian• Fabius Pictor• CIL 15.4709 & 4.2592
Garum – how is it made?
• Traditional: fish + sunshine + time = garum
• Whole fish or offal only
• Fatty fish (oily) preferred
• Outdoors, then store in cool, dry place
Garum – how is it made?
• Non-traditional: boil it first
• To strain or not strain?
• Store in fridge
Garum – how is it made?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPX8dpKG48M in which a German foodie tries his hand at garum
garum.umwblogs.org is a student project conducted over three months which documents with reports and pictures the beginnings of the liquefaction process
Garum – how is it made?
• Recipes vary – all include fish and salt, but additional flavorings vary widely
• Herbs, vinegar, honey, fish used all change the flavor
• Favorite fish? Mackerel, sardines, anchovies, tunny, tuna or various combinations
• Herbs? Parsley, garlic, pepper or local variations
Garum – how is it made?
• Leave in sun one to three months, strain, store• Edible, but pungent, in one year• Five years – not so bad• Ten years – really nice!
Garum –where/ how is it traded?
• Must have: Source of Fish• Mediterranean not rich in fish• Must have: Good water supply• Famous locations – Pompeii, Carthage,
Lusitania, Baetican Spain, Clazomenae, Leptis Magna, Atlantic coasts of Morocco and Brittany, Black Sea region
Garum – where/how is it traded?
• Transported in amphorae
• Distinctive styles can source the garum
• Barrels used, but little evidence remains
Dressel 1to 6: wine amphorasDressel 1: Roman wine amphora, 129 B.C. to 13 A.D.Dressel 2: Roman wine amphora, 16 B.C. to 29 A.D.Dressel 3: Roman wine amphora, 28 to 146 A.D.Dressel 4: Roman wine amphora, 4 B.C. to 24 A.D.Dressel 5: Roman wine amphora, 12 B.C.. - holotypeDressel 6: Roman wine amphora, 36 A.D.- holotypeDressel 7,8,9,10,11: betic amphoras for salted fish (Hispanic)Dressel 8: 1st front century J.C.Dressel 12: betic amphora for salted fish (Andalusia)Dressel 13,14,15: betic amphoras for salted fishDressel 20: oil amphora, betic, 2nd-3rd century A.D.Dressel 26,27: 3rd century A.D. and later
Garum – where/how is it traded?
• Used locally, and traded throughout empire
• Specialized in garum trade, or shipped with other goods (wine, oil, grain)
Garum –where/ how is it traded?
• Aulus Umbricius Scaurus, father and son, Pompeii
• Major commodity in Pompeii, only one dedicated shop found (so far.)
Garum – how is it used?
• Ubiquitous• Condiment
Garum – how is it used?
• Ingredient
Garum – how is it used?
• Cosmetics – remove unwanted hair and freckles
Garum – how is it used?
• Medicine – dog bites, dysentery, ulcers, chronic diarrhea and constipation!
Garum – modern?
• Umami
Garum – modern?• Asian/Pacific fish sauces• e.g. Nuoc Mam, Nam Pla
Garum – modern?
• Worcestershire sauce• Lea & Perrins includes anchovy base!