Post on 10-Aug-2019
Cuisine: Legacy, Transformation and Transmission
“Singapore’s Food Heritage:Eat it, Share it, Save it?”
Presented by:Daniel CHIA
Slow Food (Singapore)
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Nanyang Technological UniversitySchool of Art, Design and Media
26th January 2016
Today’s Presentation
1. A Very Brief Introduction to Slow Food (Singapore)
2. Singapore: A Historical & Cultural Overview
3. Singapore’s Food Heritage.
4. Singapore’s Food Trends through the lens of Bordieu’s Food Space.
5. Challenges in maintaining Food Heritage.
6. Our work: Eat it, Share it, Save it?
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Introduction to Slow Food (Singapore)
• Established as a Non-Profit Community Organisation and wasauthorised by the Singapore Registry of Societies on 30th October2013.
• The local chapter of the international Slow Food movementfounded in Italy, in 1989.
• One of the main objectives for Slow Food (Singapore) is tosafeguard Singapore’s Food Cultural Heritage through thepromotion and preservation of traditional knowledge by:
• organising meals, tastings, forums, talks, seminars, lectures,shows, recreational and study trips and other like events, so asto help educate its members and the public;
• preparing, publishing and disseminating such books, periodicals,pamphlets, photos, articles and drawings as well as producesuch films, videos and recordings in whatever form, electronic orotherwise, as may be necessary or relevant to educate itsmembers and the public;
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Singapore: a historical & cultural overview
• A centre along southeast Asian trade routes since at least the 1st century
• Populated since the early common era by peoples from the Malay peninsula, and migrants from south and southeast Asia
• Claimed by Sir Stamford Raffles as a British outpost in 1819
• Gained self-governance in 1959 and national independence in 1965
• Just over 5.5 million people live on just over 700 square kilometres
• Very little agriculture: vast majority of food produce is imported
• Four official languages: English, Mandarin, Malay and Tamil
• Multicultural harmony a crucial part of national identity
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Singapore: a historical & cultural overview
• Food culture & history braided with Chinese, Malay, Indian, southeast Asian & Western influences: immigration & an evolving expat population continue to add new & different voices to the mix
• Unique regional cuisines, natural fusions arising from historical intermarriages: Peranakan - Chinese, Malay, Indonesian, Indian & some colonial influences Eurasian - Portuguese, Dutch, Malay, Indian & Chinese influences
• Formerly teeming with itinerant street hawkers, which were moved into roofed hawker centres from the 1970s onwards
• Hawker centres a central part of gastronomy in public life: each one spans multiple cuisines, ethnicities & kinds of dishes
• Well-established, dynamic hospitality & restaurant industry which attracts many international chefs & cuisines: Singaporean chefs are frequent medallists in international culinary competitions
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Copyright © 2015 Christopher Tan. All rights reserved.
Singapore’s Food Heritage
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Food Traditions
Family Food Customs, Practices & Recipes
Community Food Traditions & Festivals
Unique Dishes & Adaptations
Copyright © 2015 Christopher Tan.
All rights reserved.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Singapore’s Food Heritage
Foods Media
Private Recipe Journals
Heritage Food Blogs
Cookbooks & Food History Books
Food Magazines
Food Television
Copyright © 2015 Christopher Tan.
All rights reserved.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Singapore’s Food Heritage
Copyright © 2015 Christopher Tan. All rights reserved.
Foods Businesses
Farms & Food Producers
Restaurants Hawker Stalls
Bakeries & Confectioneries
Food Brands & Food Stores
Food Manufacturers & Processors
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Singapore’s Food Heritage
Copyright © 2015 Christopher Tan. All rights reserved.
Foods Spaces
Hawker Centres & Food Courts
Wet Markets
Supermarkets & Hypermarkets
Community Centres
Kopi Tiam (Local Coffee Shops)
Shopping Malls
Provision Shops
Gourmet Grocery & Specialty Stores
Cooking Schools
Community Spaces – Tents on Fields
Pasar Malam (Night Markets)
Singapore’s Food Heritage
Food Traditions
Family Food Customs, Practices & Recipes
Community Food Traditions & Festivals
Unique Dishes & Adaptations
Foods Media
Private Recipe Journals
Heritage Food Blogs
Cookbooks & Food History Books
Food Magazines
Food Television
Foods Businesses
Farms & Food Producers
Restaurants Hawker Stalls
Bakeries & Confectioneries
Food Brands & Food Stores
Food Manufacturers & Processors
Foods Spaces
Hawker Centres & Food Courts
Wet Markets
Supermarkets & Hypermarkets
Community Centres
Kopi Tiam (Local Coffee Shops)
Shopping Malls
Provision Shops
Gourmet Grocery & Specialty Stores
Cooking Schools
Community Spaces – Tents on Fields
Pasar Malam (Night Markets)
Foods Events
Trade Fairs & Food Expositions
Farmers’ Markets
Cooking Competitions
Culinary Awards Presentations
Food Festivals
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Bordieu’s Food Space Singapore Context 1960s to 1980s
ECONOMIC CAPITAL -
ECONOMIC CAPITAL +
CULTURAL CAPITAL -
CULTURAL CAPITAL +
MOTHER’S COOKING
ELIZABETHAN GRILL
TROIKA RESTAURANT
CHESA
HUGO’S
ANGLO-HAINANESE
GRILL ROOMSNEIGHBOURHOOD KOPI TIAM
TRADITIONAL BAKERIES
STREET SIDE HAWKERS
“HOME BAKERS”
HAN’S
SILVER SPOON
COLBAR EATING HOUSE
COLD STORAGE MILK BARS
WESTERN STYLE BAKERIES
Sweet
White
Salty
Fried
Upmarket
Refined
Western Flavours
Colonial
Local Flavours
Homecooked
Rice/Porridge
Mostly Vegetables
Starch on Starch
Meat on Special Occasions
Dim Sum
Wedding Banquets
Live Seafood
Sharks Fins
Kopi Tiam Kopi
Traditional Piah
Kueh Kueh
Rum Balls
Swiss Rolls
Milk Shakes
Banana Splits
Club Sandwich
Mushroom Soup
Continental Cuisine
Roast Beef on Wagon
Flamed Dishes
Crepes Suzette
Cheese Trolley
Liqueur Trolley
Hot Plate Steaks
CATHAY RESTAURANT
DRAGON PHOENIX
SIN LEONG
LAI WAH
RED STAR
LOCAL SEAFOOD EATERIES
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Bordieu’s Food Space Singapore Context 1980s to 1990s
ECONOMIC CAPITAL -
ECONOMIC CAPITAL +
CULTURAL CAPITAL -
CULTURAL CAPITAL +
MOTHER’S COOKING
HOTEL CANTONESE RESTAURANTS
HOTEL JAPANESE RESTAURANTS
HOTEL GRILLROOMS
TRADITIONAL BAKERIES
WESTERN STYLE BAKERIES
NEIGHBOURHOOD KOPI TIAM
HAWKER CENTRES
PONDEROSA
SIZZLER
DENNY’S
CHAIN JAPANESE
EATERIES
DELIFRANCE
SUBWAY
SWENSENS
DUNKIN DONUTS
FAST FOOD BURGERS
FAST FOOD FRIED CHICKEN
Sweet
White
Salty
Fried
Upmarket
Refined
HK & Japan Trends
Western FlavoursLocal Fusion
Local Flavours
Rice with dishes
Dim Sum
Sharks Fins
Hot Plate Steaks
Hawker Food in
Aircon Comfort
Ribeye Steaks
Salad Buffets
Multi-grain Loaves
Baguette Sandwiches
Croissant
Fresh Brewed Coffee
Jam Donuts
Hamburgers
HK CHEFS
Live Seafood
HOTEL WEDDINGS
Peking Duck
Nouvelle Cuisine
Roast Prime Rib
Visiting Celebrity Chefs
ANGLO-HAINANESE GRILL ROOMS
TRADITIONAL RESTAURANTS
LOCAL SEAFOOD EATERIES
FOOD COURTS
Hawker Fare in Aircon
Traditional White Loaf
Rum Balls
Swiss Rolls
Kopi Tiam Kopi
Traditional Piah
Kueh Kueh
HOTEL COFFEE HOUSE
THEMED BUFFETS
LES AMIS (1995)
THE ITALIAN WAVE
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
ECONOMIC CAPITAL -
ECONOMIC CAPITAL +
CULTURAL CAPITAL -
CULTURAL CAPITAL +
FAST FOOD
FOOD COURTS
HAWKER CENTRES
NEIGHBOURHOOD KOPI TIAM
HOME COOKING
SAN PELLIGRINO TOP 50 LIST
MICHELIN STARS
OMAKASE SUSHI RESTAURANTS
CELEBRITY RESTAURANTS
BESPOKE COCKTAIL BARS
WHISKY & CIGAR BARSTRADITIONAL RESTAURANTS
CONVEYER BELT SUSHI
CHAIN COFFEE JOINTS
CHAIN ASIAN EATERIES
HOME ENTERTAINING
FOOD TRUCKS
RAMEN JOINTS
HIPSTER CAFES
GOURMET BURGER BARS
PRIVATE DINING CLUBS
GOURMET COFFEE JOINTS
ARTISANAL ICE-CREAMERIES
OTHER EXOTIC ETHNIC RESTAURANTS
Sweet
White
Salty
Fried
Refined
Healthy
Umami
Herbs
Sous-vide
Heirloom
Artisanal
Familiar Favourites
Convenience Foods
HOTEL GRILL ROOMS
STEAK HOUSES
HOTEL CHINESE RESTAURANTS
SUNDAY BRUNCH BUFFETS
HOTEL BUFFETS
Food Court Western
Kopi Tiam Kopi
Economy Rice
Nasi Bryani
Kaya Toast
Kueh Kueh
Roti Prata
Tiger Beer
Zi Char
Dim Sum
Chinese Tea
Live Seafood
Sharks Fins
Peking Duck
Hot Plate Steaks
Ramen
Truffle Fries
Small Plates
Craft Beers
Single Origin Coffee
Wagyu Burgers
Eggs Benedict
D.I.Y.
ORGANIC
Nose to Tail
Foraged Herbs
GLUTEN FREE
Heirloom Varieties
Heritage Breed Meats
Modernist Cuisines
SUSTAINABLE
Bordieu’s Food Space Singapore Context 2015/2016
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Challenges
To gastronomic identity & home cooking
• Fast-evolving food culture & trends
• Dining out is convenient & popular
• Home cooking less common as a family and bonding
activity than in previous eras
• Multicultural food heritage & culture not easy to explain
and interpret to the wider world
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Challenges
To hawker food & culture
• Rising stall rental costs
• Staff & heir shortages
• Hawker profession seen as menial, laborious, low-profit
• Challenging for young hawkers to amass capital &
recognition
• Public expectations of unsustainably low prices
• Younger generations more interested in foreign food
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Challenges
To traditional food businesses & stores
• Supermarkets displacing wet markets
• Local producers of artisanal traditional foods few & far
between
• Traditional foods less understood or appreciated
• Traditional ingredients & equipment increasingly difficult
to source
• Staff & heir shortages
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Copyright © 2015 Christopher Tan. All rights reserved.
Our Work: Eat it!
Members’ Events
•Slow Food Day 2014
• Potluck Dinner of Heritage Dishes.
•1st Anniversary Dinner 2014
• Spring Court Restaurant in Chinatown.
•Terra Madre Day 2014 – Heritage Heroes Trail
• Visited 2 of our Heritage Heroes, Poh Guan Cake House and Thye Moh Chan.
•“Slow Hei” and Lunar New Year Dinner 2015
• At Dragon Phoenix Restaurant operated by Masterchef Hooi Kok Wai
• Held a traditional toss of “The Original Yu Sheng” and a sumptuous dinner
•Slow Food Day 2015 – Dim Sum Brunch
• Red Star Restaurant.
•2nd Annual General Meeting & Dinner
• Dinner was held at Manhill Restaurant.
•Hungry Ghost Festival Auction Dinner
• Held under a large marquee at Lorong 7 Toa Payoh.
•2nd Anniversary Dinner
• Hua Yu Wee Restaurant, the last remaining seafood restaurant on what used to be a stretch of seafood restaurants situated by the seaside.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Our Work: Share it!
Research & Advocacy
Heritage Hero Awards Programme
• To increase awareness and appreciation ofthe various local and traditional kueh typesfound in Singapore.
• To encourage the cooking of the variouslocal and traditional kueh, so that recipesand skills are transmitted for futuregenerations.
• Our inaugural programme in 2014 receivedgood media coverage which led us to beinvolved in many other activities.
• The programme was repeated in 2015 andwill be expanded to cover Heritagerestaurants in 2016.
Heritage Hero
Decal & Certificate
issued to awarded
Outlets
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Our Work: Share it!
Research & Advocacy
Singapore Food Memories Programme 2014
• Slow Food (Singapore) planned an Essay Writing Competition open to students fromsecondary schools and institutes of higher learning.
• Essays were to be based on food memories of contestants’ relatives who lived inSingapore and centered on the foods that were prepared, cooked and eaten duringfestivals celebrated in Singapore from the period of 1945 to 1995.
• The aim was to collect the essays as a form of Oral History, which could then be usedfor record and for academic purposes.
• It was planned that an anthology of selected essays will be printed and titled;“Singapore Food Memories – An Anthology of Essays on Celebrating Festivals andFeasts in Singapore from 1945 to 1995”.
• However, no entries were received, so the program was shelved.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Our Work: Share it!
Partnerships
Balastier Makan Heritage Race 2015
• In partnership with Web In Travel (WIT), Ramada Singapore at Zhongshan Park, Society of Tour Guides Singapore, Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall and other stakeholders, Slow Food (Singapore) was the co-organiser of the “Balestier Makan Heritage Race”, an “Amazing Race” type event centred on Food Heritage in the Balestier District.
• Held on Saturday, 4th July 2015.
• There were 141 participants and the event raised $13,600 for the Lee Ah Mooi Old Age Home.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Copyright © 2015 Daniel Chia. All rights reserved.
Our Work: Share it!
Partnerships
Kueh Appreciation Day 2015
• Slow Food (Singapore) organised its inaugural “KuehAppreciation Day” on Sunday, 26th July 2015 at the ToTTStore on Dunearn Road.
• The event showcased hand-made local kueh from the variouscultures in Singapore and included 3 kueh-makingdemonstration classes.
• This was a partner event of the Singapore Food Festival2015 organised by the Singapore Tourism Board.
• The event was covered by more than 30 local and regionalmedia outlets, and was attended by more than 400 people,with 180 attending the classes.
• We are currently working with the Singapore Tourism Boardto discuss Kueh Appreciation Day as a key event for theSingapore Food Festival in 2016 and beyond.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Our Work: Share it!
Lectures & Workshops
Yale-NUS College – Week 7 Program
• On 28th September 2014, Slow Food (Singapore)organised for the Yale-NUS College Week 7Project on Singapore Foodways, a visit toHeritage Hero HarriAnn’s Delights.
• The participating freshmen were introduced tothe history and culture of Nyonya Kueh. As partof their visit, they were treated to ademonstration on kueh making and were giventhe opportunity to make their own Ondeh Ondeh.
• Later the same day, Slow Food conducteda livelyand interactive workshop to discuss “PreservingSingapore’ Food Cultural Heritage in the 21stCentury”.
• 24 undergraduate freshmen and 3 facultymembers attended the visit and workshop.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference Copyright © 2015 Christopher Tan. All rights reserved.
Our Work: Share it!
Lectures & Workshops
Temasek Polytechnic Special Interest Tourism – Guest Lecture
• On 1st December 2014, our presidentconducted a lecture on Food HeritageTourism to 160 students from the 3rd yearof the Hospitality & Tourism Managementcourse at Temasek Polytechnic.
At the Museum!
• On 31st January 2015, Slow Food(Singapore) presented at the NationalMuseum of Singapore, as part of their “ALighter Side of History” series, a talk titled,“Preserving Singapore’s Food Heritage in the21st Century” and a demonstration of atraditional “lo hei” by Master Chef Hooi KokWai of Dragon Phoenix Restaurant, one ofthe creators of Singapore’s Yu Sheng.
• 160 people attended the event.3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Copyright © 2015 Christopher Tan. All rights reserved.
Our Work: Share it!
In The Public Arena
Food & Hotel Asia 2014
• Convivium Leader Daniel CHIA was invited by the ItalianTrade Commissioner to make a presentation and tocontribute to the FHA 2014 Italian Pavilion Booklet.
• The presentation was a seminar on Italian Cheeses, whichincluded an introduction to the work done by Slow FoodInternational to preserve and promote Italian FoodProducts and Culture through the Presidia products, andto introduce Slow Food (Singapore), its aims andprograms for Singapore.
Singapore Writer’s Festival 2014
• On 2nd November 2014, Convivium Leader Daniel CHIAwas the Moderator for the Panel Discussion on “The futureof our culinary scene” at the Singapore Writers Festival2014 organised by the National Arts Council.
• A fruitful discussion about current issues and future trendswere discussed by the panel, which included food criticWong Ah Yoke, food blogger Daniel Ang, andchef/restauranteur Bjorn Shen.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Copyright © 2015 Christopher Tan. All rights reserved.
Our Work: Share it!
In The Public Arena
NEA Clean & Green Hackathon 2014
• On 15th November 2014, Convivium Leader Daniel CHIA was a Mentor for teams taking part in the segment on “Smart Hawker Centres” during the Clean & Green Singapore Hackathon 2014 organised by the National Environment Agency (NEA).
Singapore Management University
• In May 2015, Convivium Leader Daniel CHIAwas a collaborator at the Co-creationWorkshop “Let’s Reduce Plate Waste inSingapore - Towards a Zero Food WasteNation” organised by SingaporeManagement University’s Masters in Tri-Sector Collaboration programme.
• The co-creation workshop was attended by,60 people, from various sectors includinggovernment bodies, NGOs, and the privatesector.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Copyright © 2015 Daniel Chia. All rights reserved.
Our Work: Share it!
In The Public Arena
Maritime Stewardship Council Asia Pacific Sustainable Seafood Business Forum 2015
• On 5th June 2015, Convivium LeaderDaniel CHIA attended the Forum andwas interviewed for comments aboutMSC’s initiatives.
• Parts of the interview were laterbroadcast as a news item.
National Youth Council
• In 25th June 2015, Convivium LeaderDaniel CHIA was a Panellist for theNational Youth Council’s “YouthSpeakPanel on Food Security & Food Waste”.
• Attendance at the panel discussion was60 people.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Our Work: Share it!
Featured In Publication
“Social Studies 2016 Express and Normal (Academic) Stream Coursebook”
• Published by the Curriculum Planning andDevelopment Division of Singapore’sMinistry of Education, this is the newSocial Studies Coursebook for upper (year9 and 10) secondary school students inSingapore.
• The international Slow Food movement,Slow Food in Singapore, and its HeritageHeroes Program was highlighted asshowcasing Singapore’s traditional foodculture and celebrating hand-madeheritage treats.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Solutions, goals & prospects: Save it?
• Encourage people to cook more at home, through events, competitions & media
• Encourage families to record, save, practise & share their handed-down recipes & traditions
• Teach younger generations about their family & ethnic food heritage
• Food-focused heritage fairs, exhibitions, walking trails, events
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
• Raise perceptions of hawker & traditional foods, at a public & institutional level
• Enlighten consumers that (high quality + cheap) food is often an unrealistic expectation
• Educate consumers about the true differences between artisanal handmade products & commercial products
• Recognise individual cooks & hawkers – not just food brands and companies – as heritage champions
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Solutions, goals & prospects: Save it?
• Refine regulations to help, not hinder, hawkers & heritage food producers
• Use online / social media to promote & explain heritage foods & businesses
• Help heritage food businesses to capitalise on trends & tech without compromising their core character
• Forge alliances & training schemes to allow hawkers & heritage food producers to share & pass on knowledge
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Solutions, goals & prospects: Save it?
• Eat it!• Make traditional foods a relevant part of our lives and
our children’s lives, starting from a young age.• If they don’t know the food, they won’t want to save it!
• Share it!• Encourage families to record, save, practise & share
their handed-down recipes & traditions.• Use online / social media to promote & explain heritage
foods & businesses.• Make traditional foods fashionable again!
• Save it!• If Singapore’s Food Heritage remains a relevant and
valuable part of our lives, transmission will continue…
Eat it, Share it, Save it?
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Copyright © 2015 Christopher Tan. All rights reserved.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Copyright © 2015 Christopher Tan. All rights reserved.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
Copyright © 2015 Christopher Tan. All rights reserved.
Acknowledgements
1. Christopher TAN• Cookbook Author, Photographer, Columnist, Chef Instructor
• Slow Food (Singapore) Founding Executive Committee Member and Chairman of Heritage Hero Awards Program.
• For allowing me to adapt and use this presentation which he originally prepared for the Slow Food Asia Pacific Festival 2015 in Seoul, Korea.
2. Conference Organisers - NHB & NTU • For inviting Slow Food (Singapore) to present at this conference.
3. Temasek Polytechnic• For giving me time off to attend and present at this conference.
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
3rd Singapore Heritage Science Conference
A formal photo portrait of my paternal grandmother with her nanny, circa 1920s.