Scalp Care, Shampooing, & Conditioning

Chapter 15

• Identify the two most basic requirements for scalp care.

• Demonstrate a scalp massage during a shampoo service.

• Examine the differences and similarities of treating scalp and hair that are dry, oily, and/or affected by dandruff.

• Describe how hair brushing contributes to a healthy scalp.

Learning Objectives

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• Evaluate the uses and benefits of the various types of shampoo.

• Evaluate the uses and benefits of the various types of conditioners.

• Demonstrate the appropriate draping for a basic shampooing and conditioning, and draping for a chemical service.

• Identify the three-part procedure of a hair care service and explain why it is useful.

Learning Objectives (continued)

The shampoo service:• Encompasses three different processes: scalp

care and massage, shampooing, and conditioning.• Can and should be a soothing, pleasurable

experience that sets the mood for the entire visit.• Is an opportunity to provide the client with quality

relaxation time that is free from the stresses of the day.

• Is nurturing and, when done well, add great benefits to the hair for styling.

Introduction

Safely and Effectively use Massage in Scalp Care

• The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are cleanliness and stimulation.

• The massage is a method of manipulating the scalp by rubbing, tapping, kneading, or stroking it with the hands.

• Before performing a shampoo service that includes a scalp massage, complete a client intake or health screening form.

• During the consultation, discuss any contraindications for scalp massage with your client.

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• Before shampoo: If scalp condition is present.• Should be given with a continuous, even motion.• During shampoo: Once conditioner has been

applied for relaxation.• Relaxation vs. treatment: Depends on products

used.• Scalp Massage Procedure

Safely and Effectively use Massage in Scalp Care (continued)

Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment

• Purpose – to maintain scalp and hair in a clean and healthy condition.

• Perform treatment only after full hair and scalp examination.

Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment

• Used if natural oil is deficient.

• Use treatment products that contain moisturizing and emollient ingredients.

• Avoid strong soaps, greasy preparations, lotions with high alcohol content.

• Use a scalp steamer.

Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment

• Caused by overactive sebaceous glands.

• The purpose of treatment is to reduce any hardened sebum that has been collected in the pores of the scalp.

Antidandruff Treatment

• Caused by a fungus called malassezia.

• The purpose of treatment is to suppress the growth of malassezia and loosen scalp scales.

Learn the Benefits of Proper Hair Brushing

Correct brushing:• Stimulates the blood circulation of the scalp• Helps remove dust, dirt, and hair-spray buildup• Gives added shine

Hair Brushing Exceptions

• Avoid if scalp is irritated. • Prior to chemical service. • Prior to or after haircolor procedures.• Prior to or after bleach lightening or

highlighting services.

Hairbrushes

• Natural bristles – most highly recommended to clean and add luster to the hair.

• Nylon bristles – shiny, smooth, and more suitable for hairstyling.

• Hair Brushing Procedure

Provide a Proper and Effective Shampoo Service

• The purpose of the shampoo service is to cleanse the hair and scalp prior to receiving a service providing a great canvas for styling and ongoing hair care.

Scalp Analysis

• Dry, dehydrated hair

• Thinning of the hair

• Excessive hair in sink

• Dry, tight scalp

• Oily scalp

• Abnormal flaking on scalp

• Open wounds or scalp irritations

• Scalp disorders or disease

• Tick or lice infestation

• Basic Shampoo and Conditioning Procedure

Selecting the Proper Shampoo

• As a professional, you must become skilled at selecting shampoos that support the health of the hair, whether the hair is natural, color-treated, fine and limp, or coarse and wiry.

Shampoo Selection Considerations

• Hair type – dry; oily; normal; chemically treated

• Hair condition – overprocessed; chemically treated; damaged by harsh products, improper care, or exposure to elements

• Home maintenance

The pH Scale

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The Chemistry of Water

• Purification– Sedimentation– Filtration– Chlorine added– Boiling– Distillation

• Soft water

• Hard water

• Water temperature

The Chemistry of Shampoo

Water• Deionized water• Surfactant molecule (surface active agent)

– Hydrophilic end– Lipophilic end

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Oil

Grease

Dirt

1 2

3 4

The Chemistry of Shampoo (continued)

Types of Shampoos

• pH-balanced

• Conditioning

• Medicated

• Clarifying

• Balancing

• Strengthening

• Dry or powder

• Sulfate-free

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Types of Shampoos (continued)

• Thinning hair• Neutralizing• Color-enhancing• Keratin protein added• Hairpieces and wigs

Shampooing Clients with Special Needs

• Clients with disabilities or those who are wheelchair-bound will usually tell you how they prefer to be shampooed.

• The same goes for clients with other special needs. Always ask about their preferences and make their comfort and safety a priority.

Recommend and Use Conditioners

• Deposit protein or moisturizer

• Restore strength and give body

• Protect against breakage

• Types

– Cleansing– Rinse-out– Treatment or repair– Leave-in

Formulation

• Silicone and moisture-binding humectants• Protein conditioners

Other Conditioning Agents

• Spray-on thermal protectors

• Scalp conditioners

• Medicated scalp lotions

• Scalp astringent lotions

Deep-Conditioning Treatment

• Also known as mask or conditioning pack.

• Mixtures of concentrated protein in a heavy cream base of a moisturizer.

• Penetrate the cuticle layer.

• Used when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein is required.

Use Professional Draping

• Client must be properly draped for each service.

Shampoo (wet) draping

• Two terry towels used, one under cape and one over

• Replaced with neck strip and cape

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Use Professional Draping (continued)

Chemical-service draping

• Two terry towels used, one under cape and one over, which remain during service.

Benefits of the Three-Part Procedure

• Pre-service – preparation

• Service – practical service on client

• Post-service – caring for client after service and clean-up

Summary and Review

• Cleanliness is the key to attractive hair.

• As a cosmetology professional, you will need to be able to analyze hair type and hair products to determine the best shampoo, conditioner, and/or treatment for your client.

• Always follow the manufacturer’s directions when using any product, including shampoos.

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Summary and Review (continued)

• Remember to always make the most effective use of the opportunity provided when shampooing a client. It’s an opportunity for you to put clients at ease and make them feel comfortable about the service they are about to receive.

1. What are the two most important requirements for a healthy scalp?

2. How should scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or have dandruff be treated?

Chapter Review Questions

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3. What are the benefits of scalp massage?

4. Why is hair brushing important for maintaining a healthy scalp and hair?

5. What shampoo is recommended most to address dandruff? To address product buildup? On hair that is damaged?

Chapter Review Questions (continued)

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6. What is the action of conditioner on hair?

7. List and describe two types of professional draping? At what point in the service do you remove or replace the towels and cape used for each?

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Chapter Review Questions (continued)

8. Describe the benefits of using the Three-Part Procedure and list the parts.

Chapter Review Questions (continued)