Post on 03-Feb-2016
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Introduction to Rope Rescue
Julius Horvath26 April 2002
horvathjt@juno.com
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Training Objectives
Familiarize AVFRD Personnel to Technical Rope Rescue
Capabilities & LimitationsEquipment
Software – Ropes, Webbing & KnotsHardware
Support Roles & Responsibilities
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Training Agenda
Overview of Technical RescueEquipment Basics: Uses, Capabilities & Limitations
Software: Ropes & WebbingKnots
HardwareRescue Engine 6 EquipmentYour Roles & Responsibilities as Support Personnel
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Training Notes
Variety of methods may be employed in Technical Rope Rescue
Must be familiar with local standardsGet everyone to train together (coordinated)
Will focus on NFPA Standards but will also present NATRS & UIAA Standards
The only RIGHT Way is the SAFE Way
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Technical Rescue is inherently dangerous and requires many hours of training and practice before it is attempted by anyone. This course is designed to familiarize personnel with how they can effectively work in a supporting role during a technical or semi-technical rescue operation. It is not designed to prepare the student for performing rescue operations without the supervision of a Rope Rescue Technician. Students of this course should obtain additional training including extensive practice in High Angle Rope Rescue.
Technical Rescue
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Technical Rescue DefinitionsTechnical Rescue – Rescue performed in a High Angleenvironment requiring rope and related equipment (Vertical Rescue)
High Angle – When the angle of the terrain becomes so steep that the weight of the litter is supported primarily by the rope rather then the tender
Semi-Technical Rescue – Low Angle Rescue where litter team supports majority of load with their legs & rope system used to facilitate movement & fall protectionNFPA #1995 Standard - Fire Service Life Safety: Ropes, Harnesses & Hardware (equipment and minimum qualifications)Rescue Quality (R/Q) – equipment designed & manufactured for life safety and support meeting NFPA minimum standardsRescue Load – Defined by NATRS as 200kg (440#) load for the purposes of comparative testing representing weight of stretcher, subject, rescuer and gear
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Technical Rescue DefinitionsBelay Rope – the line/rope designated to provide fall protectionDynamic – high stretch rope
Rope designed to absorb energy of a fall High Stretch 20-40% (UIAA rated for number of falls)Sudden increase in load on system (e.g., fall arrested by belay)
Static – low stretch rope< 20% elongation at breaking load< 2% elongation with 200# load; 2-3% with 300# load
NATRS – North American Technical Rescue Symposium sponsored jointly by NASAR & MRA
NASAR – North American Search & RescueMRA – Mountain Rescue AssociationUIAA – Union of International Alpine Associations
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NFPA Loads & Safety Factors
Static Loads1 Person Load – 300 lbs. (Personal use)2 Person Load – 600 lbs. (General use)
Safety FactorsLife Safety Margin = 15:1
1 Person Rope T/S ≥ 4,500 lbs (3/8” or 9.5 mm diam)2 Person Rope T/S ≥ 9,000 lbs (1/2” or 12.7 mm diam)3 Person Rope T/S ≥ 13,500 lbs (5/8” or 15.8 mm diam)
Harnesses = 10:1
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Static Load CalculationsQuick Rule of Thumb Calculations
NATRS1 Person Load = 100 kg = 220#
1 kN on System2 Person Load = 200 kg = 440#
2 kN on System
NFPA2 Person Load = 600# = 273 kg
≈ 3 kN on System (actual 2.7 kN )1,000 lbs ≈ 4.5kN
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Software
RopesKnots
WebbingSlings
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Rescue Ropes & Webbing Materials
Nylon – primary fiber used for rescue & sport climbing
Pros: high strength, abrasion resistance, shock absorption, and reasonable cost.Cons: up to 15% strength loss plus significant weight gain when nylon fibers absorb water
Polyester – similar to nylon w/ some differences:Pros: strong, good abrasion resistance, minimal water absorption, high resistance to UV degradation from sunlightCons: low stretch, poor shock loading absorption
Polypropylene – used for water rescue throwlinesPros: floats on water; good resistance to chemicalsCons: low strength & durability; low resistance to sunlight
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Rope Fiber Comparison Chart
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Rope Construction, Use & CareConstruction
Laid – Generally three-strand construction; no longer used for rescueKernmantle – ropes with core (kern) and sheath (mantle); most common construction in rescue
Core is primary load bearing part of rope (70%-90% load)Sheath holds core bundles together & protects rope
Use & CareDo not step on ropesKeep them clean; free from oil, grease & chemicalsProtect from UV (sunlight)Protect from sharp objectsKeep a rope usage logInspect regularly
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Rope CategoriesCategory I – Safe for emergency operations
Unused< 5 years oldInspected at least quarterly & documentedConforms to NFPA #1995
Category II – Safe for emergency operations if:< 10 years oldInspected & documented at least quarterlyNever been shock loadedNever been exposed to heat > 200 deg or to chemicals
Category III – Non-Life Support RopeAny rope > 10 years old regardless of conditionFails any of the provisions of Category IIThis rope must be destroyed or black tagged
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Knot Terminology
Bight – formed when the rope is doubled back, but does notcrossLoop – formed when the rope doubles back and crosses itselfWorking End – end of rope used to tie knot; inactive endStanding End – part of rope attached to something, usually an anchorKnot – generic term for any knot that is not a hitch or bendBend – knot that connects ends of 2 ropes togetherHitch – knot that attaches rope to another object (including another rope if host rope is not part of the knot)
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Rule of KnotsA Knot is not a Knot until it is Tied Off
All rescue systems are backed up meaning that all knots used in those systems are also backed up. Always Use safety knots. (Exceptions: mid-rope knots & Double Fisherman’s used for Prusik Hitch)
A neat Knot is a Happy KnotNeatness counts when tying knotsDressing the knot makes it stronger and easier to check
(A Knot can reduce rope strength by up to 50%)
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Knot Breaking Strength
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Overhand Knot
This simple knot and its cousin the barrel knot can be used to back up another knot. All knots should be backed up.
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Square Knot
UsesSeat Harness
CautionsWrong = Granny Knot
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BowlineUses
This knot is used to make a fixed (non-slip) loop in the end of a line Can be used for leg-loops in seat harness
ProsMay be tied one handed
ConsUp to 33% Strength Loss
CautionsTail should be inside the loopShould be backed up
The "rabbit" comes out of the hole, around the tree, and back down the
hole.
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Figure-8 Knot
Basic “must know” knot for rescue workGood “stopper” knot
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Figure-8 Bend/Follow Through
BendPreferred for connecting 2 ropesSecure, self-tighteningEasier to untie after loading
Follow Through LoopGood for tying around anchors or seat harness
Very Strong when properly dressed It is important to always contour
the knots appropriately. All knots must also be backed up either with an overhand or half barrel knot.
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Figure-8 Loop orFigure-8 on a Bight
UsesTie loop at end of ropeLoop in middle of rope
ProsMuch stronger & more secure than BowlineEasy to untie
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Butterfly Knot
Used to tie loop in middle of rope where ends carry load
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Double Fisherman’s Knot
Used to make Prusik loopsVery secure with minimum sizeSelf lockingOne of few knots not requiring back up (but must be set tight)
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Prusik HitchFriction Knot used as soft rope grab
Climbing rope (ascender)Movable anchor point for personal belayRope grab in haul systemHandle giving better grip on rope Used with Double or Triple wraps
8mm diam Prusik cord on ½” Rescue Rope6 & 7mm Prusiks good for personal use
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Girth HitchQuick way to tie web loop around anchor pointCon:
20-25% strength lossPro:
Grips anchor point to keep web from sliding
Cautions:Must make sure load is transferred tangentially to anchor point. DO NOT allow it to cross back on itself.
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Clove Hitch
Good gripping knotWrapping a litterTying PT into litterImprovised low angle harness to head of plastic litter railSecuring Firefighter tools and laddersMust back up with safety knot if loaded
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Munter HitchUsed with carabiner for single person belays
Good for emergency rappels
Effective in both directionsWorks best with pear shaped carabiner & soft ropeUsed in Load Release HitchCaution: 1 person can not control a rescue load
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One Way Knot
Ties two ropes together allowing it to pass through a pulley in one direction
Knot will pass through pulley in only one direction due to short tails on the same side
Caution: still need a knot passing pulley to make this work
Not as strong as barrel knot
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Water Knot
Ties webbing together or single piece into a loop
Used for anchor slings & seat harnesses
Cautions: must set knot by pulling hard
Always use safety knots
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Sheet Bend
Used to tie two ropes of different thickness together Good for hauling equipment bagsPro: easy to untieCon: not rescue capableCautions: do not use as Lifeline
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HardwareCarabiners
Locking & non-lockingManual & auto-locking
ShapesOvalPearDOffset or Modified D
Materials: Aluminum or SteelStrongest when loaded on major (long) axisAlways lock carabiner
Lock toward gravity to reduce probability of opening
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Hardware (cont)
DescendersFigure 8 DescenderBrake Bars
PulleysRescue & Personal usePrusik MindingKnot PassingSelf-tending
Anchor Plates
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Hardware (cont)Rope Grabs & Ascenders
Knots: Prusik Hitch (Soft Ascender)Ability to absorb higher shock loadsFail by slipping (non-catastrophic)No moving parts to fail or jamWorks in either direction
Mechanical AscendersGibbsRescuecenderHandled Ascenders (e.g., Jumar)
Equipment BagsHelmets & Safety Gear
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Basic Gear
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Lowering System
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Raising System
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Litter Packaging
Protect PatientAllow PT AccessSecure PT to LitterSecure Litter to YokeSecure Yoke to LifelineRescuer/Tender always secured to systemNumber of Litter Tenders depend on type of rescue
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Support RolesKnow all rescue equipment by name, sight and locationBe able & willing to retrieve equipment
Begin basic setup (e.g., tie knots) as directed by Rescue Technician
Be able to recognize unsafe situations Know when you are in over your headKnow when someone w/o the requisite training is attempting to take charge that may jeopardize your life or someone else’s
Draw attention to itGet additional help & resources (better to wait)
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Support Roles (cont)
Be able to perform a rapid inspection of all equipment planned for use in rescue operation (e.g., inspect rope in bag)Help with quarterly equipment inspectionsTake advanced rope rescue courses
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Wrap-up
Rescue StandardsLoadsTypes of equipment
Ropes & WebbingKnots
Hardware OverviewTour of RE6 equipment locations
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References1. High Angle Rescue Techniques; Vines & Hudson; 1992 National
Association for Search & Rescue2. On Rope; Padgett & Smith; 1987 National Speleological Society3. CMC Rope Rescue Manual, 3rd Edition; 1992 CMC Rescue Inc.4. Heavy & Tactical Rescue: Rope Rescue I; 1992 Virginia Department of
Fire Programs5. Knots on the Web; Peter Suber;
http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/knotlink.htm6. Appalachian Search & Rescue Conference; Blue Ridge Mountain Search
& Rescue website; http://brmrg.med.virginia.edu/index.html7. Field Team Leader Course: Technical Rescue; Harrison & Horvath; 1992
Appalachian Search & Rescue Conference, Shenandoah Mountain Rescue Group