Pomes, Nuts and Berries, Oh My!September 17, 2013

The Morton ArboretumCommunity Trees ProgramAndrea DierichPresentation was made possible by the Illinois Extension Service

Step 1: Determining if Fruit Trees Are Right for You

Maintenance Level:

- Low (water, weed & mulch)

-Medium (some pruning and pest management)

-High (pruning and dedicated pest management)

Species that Fit Your Style

Low: figs, mulberry, most nut trees, paw-paw, persimmon, serviceberry

Medium: tart cherries, pears, plums

High: apples peaches, some pears

General Information

-Winter is a limiting factor in growing some fruit

-Bare-root or container recommended for planting

-Best planted when small

-Dedicated fall and spring care

Other Considerations & Determining Factors

•Space•Sunlight•Soil•Moisture & Drainage•Pollination•Pests & Diseases

Site Selection-full sun (8-10 hours)

Site Selection

-fertile, well drained soil

Site Selection

-good air drainage

Site Selection

-protection from summer wind

Soil TypeSlightly Acidic - Neutral• Paw-Paws• Serviceberries • Persimmon• Pears• Cherries• Hazelnut

Neutral – Alkaline• Apples• Pecans• Walnut• Chinese Chestnuts

Planting

Time: spring, usually around April

Spacing: varies depending on the species and effect desired

Handling bare-root stock: keep roots damp plant as soon as possible root prune with care

Planting

Proper planting: • dig large enough hole• spread roots, cut off bad ones• plant at proper depth*• keep soil moist• do not fertilize for the first year!

Remove at planting time:

-dead limbs

-weak limbs

-crossing limbs

-water sprouts

-root suckers

Planting

Planting

Trees on seedling rootstock: plant 2 inches deeper than they were planted in the nursery (for stability)

Trees on dwarfing rootstock: graft or bud union should be about 3” above the soil level

Tree Size

Standard (grafted on seedling rootstock) -full size, large trees*Nut trees generally are standard size.*

Semi-Dwarf and Dwarf-variable in size-ask about the mature height

Purchasing Tree Stock

Homework into nurseries and suitable tree species will be required.

- Buy container or bare-root- Ensure immediate planting or care will be

available when stock arrives- If container tree remove top layer of soil

until first root is visible- May species will require at least a second

tree to be purchased…

Fruitfulness/Pollination

Self-pollination vs. Cross Pollination

Fruitfulness/Pollination

Self-fruitful:

• Peach•Tart Cherries • Hazelnuts

Self- unfruitful:• Most apples• Pears• Paw-Paws• Japanese plum• Chinese chestnuts

Fruitfulness/Pollination

Partially Self-fruitful:

• Apricots• European plums• Walnut• Pecan

Young Trees

Help a tree to establish and strengthen before fruit production!

Mulch soilAdequate waterLimb trainPruneFertilize in the late summer (2nd yr)

Care of Young (Non-bearing)Trees

Prevent premature bearing:

-remove all fruit the first 2 seasons

-after that allow light to moderate crops

-do not allow a heavy fruit load on centralleader

Branch spreading in a young tree using toothpicks.

Branch spreading in a older tree using wood stakes.

Well trained trees!

Care of Young (Non-bearing)Trees

Bringing young trees into bearing -reduce N fertilization -tie or spread branches

Pest Control

•Organic deterrent (1 part Tabasco – 5 parts H2O)

•Bordeaux mixture•Stem wrapping + hardwire

Bearing Trees: Spring Care

Fertilize properly: -early spring at bud-swell -start 1’ out from trunk and go to drip-line

Spring pruningAid pollination if needed (paw-paw)Protect buds and immature fruit from fungal and tissue diseases.

Bearing Trees: Fall Care

•Sanitation!!!!!! Remove all debris; including leaf litter, and fruit.

•Water, water, water•Mulch•Identify branches to prune in the late

winter•Wrap bark of young trees

Bearing Trees ‘Winter’ injury

Fluctuating day/night temperatures

frost cracking

Spring frostcover tree to the ground

Bearing Trees: Fruit Thinning

Why do it?

Excess fruit will

-reduce fruit size

-retard development of next year’s buds

-increase risk of branch breakage

Bearing Trees: Fruit ThinningWhen to do it? -Late May, early June

How? -nature (June drop)

-by hand-a little shake

Consider the spacing between fruit as well!

Why Prune?

1. Improve quality and size of fruit

2. Develop a strong tree

3. Facilitate culture and harvest

4. Manage size and shape of the tree

Pruning Fruit Trees: Training Systems

Open Center commonly used for stone fruit trees

Central Leader commonly used for apples, pears, cherries and some plums

Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center

-single trunk, 18-30 inches high

-2, 3 or 4 scaffold branches, all closetogether near top of tree

-crotch angles 40-90 degrees

Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center

Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center

Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center

Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center

Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader

-one main trunk, 5-8 feet tall

-lowest branch 18-22 inches from ground (not on SW side)

-5-12 scaffolds, spaced 4-8 inches apart vertically on trunk; or clustered 18-24 inches apart (upper ones shorter)

-crotch angles 40-90 degrees

Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader

Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader

Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader

Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader

Thank you!Andrea DierichADierich@mortonarb.org