The Physics of Surfing

Lying on the board

Force of buoyancyForce of gravity

Center of mass

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Catching the Wave

Paddle and move forward until you’re at the wave’s speed.

Push up on the center of mass

Standing upStill consider buoyancy and

gravity and the center of mass.

Balance!Shifting weight will create a

torque and change the position of the buoyant force = r x F

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Riding the Wave

New force: hydrodynamicNet force no longer zero

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Riding the wave

Once you’ve caught the wave, use the conservation of energy to liven up the rideKEbottom = KEtop+PEtop

1/2mvs2=mgh+1/2mvw

2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwVnq_t-Wc4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nS_aR8XX_U&feature=player_embedded

Turning

Shift weight to the back side, board will react and roll slightly under your weight

Newton’s third lawForce of water on board’s

rear side will turn the boardBend and straighten legs to

go faster

Physics of the board

ShortboardShort, thinSmaller moment of inertiaFaster

LongboardLong, thickerGreater moment of inertiaSlower

Physics of the board

FinsWax