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Surf it All!
Guidelines
About Surfing
Copyright www.how2osurf.com 2011
TITLE
LEGAL NOTICE © 2011– How2oSurf.com. All rights reserved.
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Table of contents
Chapter 1
How to surf? 4
Positioning 8
Padding 8
Turtle Roll 9
Sitting 12
Duck Dive 12
Pop up 14
Catching/Riding the wave 15
Chapter 2
Your Surfboard and Fins 16
Tips on making choice of your board 17
Tips on how choose of surfboard fins 20
The Shaper 21
Chapter 3:
Talk like a surfer 23-30
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Chapter 4:
The Unwritten Law of Surfing 31
Rules/Law of Surfing 32
Don't Drop in 32
Right of way 32
Share the wave 32
Don't be a snake 33
Chapter 5:
Healthy surfing 34
Why do you surf? 35
How does surfing change my life? 36
Surfing can cure depression 36
Surfing is addictive? 37
Exercise & lose weight surfing 38
o Weight lifting 38
o High cardio work out 39
o Yoga 40
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o Live a healthy habit 42
o Can a large person surf? 43
o Can a fat person surf? 43
Chapter 6:
Safety Health Tips 44
Sunblock for surfer 45
Prevent Hair Damage from Sea and Sun 46
How to treat Sea Urchin Sting? 47
Maintain surfing physique 48
Chapter 7:
Surfing Trip 49
Pack for surfing trip 50
Why Travel for a Surf vacation? 51
Know about the Locals 51
Big wave surfing 52
Where is the best spot to learn to surf? 53
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Chapter 1
How to
Surf?
For the first few days try to learn how to swim, make sure you
are well equipped to prevent you from drowning. See to it
that you acquire life jacket and other equipment. Catch the
small and breaking waves that are close to the shore. You
should look for small breaking waves that you can handle,
don’t be eager to catch the big ones yet.
Ensure that you are holding your surfboard in a position
where a wave cannot knock it and hit your face or other body
parts; prevent yourself from injury. Hold the board out at
arm’s length with a hand on each rail. Keep your head up and
leap over the oncoming white water as you walk your way out.
Take a look around to make sure you are not about to bump
into somebody else’s way, or that you are not directly on
someone’s back who may lose hold of their board. It can be
horribly terrifying seeing an approaching wave and a massive
long board coming towards you.
Be very vigilant, active and careful at all time, and everything
should be fine.
Keep going out until you reach a desirable depth. Keep an eye
out for waves that are breaking towards you remember to
jump.
We are now in a point to position yourself on the board. Enjoy
every moment because there is no turning back as waves will
be coming to you. Don’t be afraid with the big waves as it is
just part of becoming a surfer. Bring your buddy with you, you
can take picture or video if you want to capture the moment
with your first surfing days.
Take a deep breath and be calm. You are now at a
comfortable depth where the whitewater is rolling towards
the beach and almost welcomes you. Position your board at
your side. Keep an eye on the waves that are coming towards
you, choose one that is big enough to pick you up and take
ride you through. Try to do this over and over until you
succeed. If you are using the beginner's board, long and
heavy, the wave should not have to be that big, and you'll
hardly exert an effort to paddle. On a very light shortboard,
you may have to work a little harder and struggle handling a
bit.
Some experienced surfer look back at their first wave and feel
like listening on music while riding the wave, smooth and easy
as they say.
When the wave is about to reach you, push the surfboard
towards the beach and, at the same time, pull yourself on to
the board so that you're lying flat on top of it. When you are
lying balanced on top of your surfboard, paddle with both
arms as the wave approaches from behind. Keep paddling as
the wave starts to pick you up. You should feel the board rise
in the water as the wave picks you up, and you'll feel an
increase in your speed as the wave starts to take you. With a
bit of luck you'll have caught your first wave. Some
experienced surfer describes their first wave as magical. So
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you’ll have to catch the moment because first wave will be the
first.
Before you engage on the wave learn these first.
Positioning
Take a note after you surfing lesson so you can get back from
it and do this again until succession. When you’re on top of
the board, you may be too far forward the nose dips in the
water and you begin to nose dive. The water hits you in the
face and you’ll drink plenty of sea water. Try lying a little
further back on your board the tail dips in the water, you
tumble and get thrown and you’ll drink sea water as well. As
the wave starts to take you, arch your back a little to put more
weight on your legs. Try not to catch a wave that is in the
process of breaking just yet. This will pitch you forward. The
wave passes you by or you can't catch the wave. You may be
too far back on the board. Try shifting your body up and down
the board to ensure the nose is not underwater; the nose
should just be picking up the surface.
Paddle faster and keep paddling until the wave passed. At
first, it's a good idea to practice catching waves without
attempting to get up. This will give you the feel of catching a
wave and help with the timing that is required to pop up. You
may also want to try positioning yourself in calmer water to
make it perfect. So now you can catch the whitewater waves
in to the beach but first you have to learn how to paddle
perfectly first before you want to stand on the surfboard
when you are heading into the beach after all. As you progress
further with the positioning, you will be out in deeper water
and will have to control your surfboard while you are out
there, and to learn how to get through larger breaking waves.
Paddling
It's important that you take a note and list key points you
want to learn later on. See and examine these key notes you
may encounter when you are out on the sea. If you can't
paddle fast enough to get out beyond the breaking waves to
line up, you can’t catch a wave decent enough to make a ride.
If you paddle slowly you'll never catch a wave and you can end
up stuck in the breaking waves that can be harmful, you’ll
probably drink a lot of water when you’re in the middle of
breaking water. If you paddle long enough to get out of the
breaking water, you will tire yourself and potentially
dangerous so you may want to consider surf buddy when you
think you are not fit enough. Take note that paddling requires
fit body; paddling will burn out your shoulder and should ache
after the end of your training.
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When you are on the board take this steps in positioning
yourself when you are paddling. Don’t bother waves banging
to your face; it is part of the learning process and part of
surfing generally. Learn this lessons how to paddle and how
not to paddle. Paddling is easy when you are using the long
board; long board is stable and can do a straight line or when
you are aiming straight forward.
It is very important that you have learned positioning yourself
in the board without paddling yet so that you can get the
feeling of being comfortable with your board so that paddling
will be easy. Position your body where the nose is just inches
up the water and the tail does not fall under water. Tuck your
feet keep your body centered. Align your body parallel to the
board to avoid falling over. Stretch your hands out and start to
paddle.
Keep trying until you are moving fast enough before testing on
white water waves. Remember that it will take a lot of
practice and time in perfecting proper positioning with your
board. You can also consider practicing on calm water and
take your time to paddle. Paddling takes lot of energy so make
sure you are fit, after a while and after sore shoulder you will
get the hang and you can paddle fast enough to catch huge
waves. But before you can surf, take a lesson on turtle dive
and sitting on your board.
Turtle Roll
Turtle Roll: the method of dismounting yourself out of your
board when you’re lying flat paddling your way out the
breaking waves, it is an important method for those with
beginner board or long boards where duck-diving is difficult.
Basically, when a wave hits you and you are not ready or not
balanced, you hold on to the sidings of your board and flip
over sideways with your board and make sure the nose is not
tilted up to make sure the wave will not lift up the board and
throw you out of your board. Hug the board with hands locked
up. The wave will just go right over you. Once the wave is calm
enough, just flip back over and shift your body over the side
and end up at the paddling position again.
See these illustrations for orientation:
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Step 1: Be ready for the roll and straighten your body with the
board. Grab the sides of your surf board.
Step 2: Roll over to the side before wave impacts.
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Step 3: Grab or hug your board so that you will not be thrown
away.
Step 4: After the wave passed, point the board towards the
line and paddle.
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Sitting
Notice that pro surfer sits on their board after breaking the
white water. They do this to relieve stress on their front body
and to take a view on the upcoming wave. This should be a
key feature in catching the big wave if you’re good enough of
picking wave perfect for you. You can also take a rest with this
position especially when you are tired after long paddle. This
is also considered as a position where you are ready to mount.
After paddling, begin to balance yourself, place both of your
hands on the side of the board or the railings, then get ready
to push your body up. Push yourself up gently while sliding
both your feet at the side and keeping your balance.
If you will not do this perfectly usually at your first few tries,
you will see that the board will shoot up as if a “tomahawk”, if
you are far back and nose dive if you are far front. Don’t be far
in each side as you will fall over in this case, be ready to dive.
Spread your legs sideways to balance yourself and keep your
body in the center of the board. Take some time to practice
this part but it shouldn’t be hard enough once you’re keeping
your balance. After a little practice you'll soon be capable at
getting into the sitting position. By the time you perfected this
all this part you will be stirring in and out the water fast and
you should be ready for mounting yourself for your first wave.
Duck Dive
Duck diving is a dismount where a surfer is paddling in knelling
position and dives under the wave prior to it hits him or her
together with waves are huge. Duck diving is the method that
a surfer nose-dives under an oncoming wave as he or she
paddles out of the breaking wave. Ducking under the wave
ensures that all the progress made by paddling out is not lost
by being washed backwards by the wave. The bigger the wave
the more it will be clashing to you, the more important it
becomes to be skilled at duck diving. This method should also
be perfected especially when you are in the bigger waves. The
bigger the wave the more risk of getting tired.
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See illustrations on how to duck dive:
Try to do this action on your pool if not on a shallow beach
first before trying on the waves. You can drink bucket full of
sea water if you are not ready to face the waves.
1) Push your whole body up to a crawl position.
2) Nose dive as deep as you can, grab the sides with both
hands.
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3) Pull up, repeat this again if wave is coming towards
you.
Prepare yourself when the wave is coming to you. Put your
hand at the rails of your board and exert pressure. Place your
knees in the center of the board and nose dive in one constant
motion; dive as deep as you can to avoid being carried by the
wave. Under water, paddle as fast as you can. Underwater,
hug to the board with your knees and hands, and roll over
with your back and the board upside. Keep Hugging the board
while you are upside down and make sure the nose is down
into the water so the wave can't wash you out. Be sure
nobody is up on the surface when you roll back upright and
continue paddling with all your strength when the wave has
washed past you.
Pop up
The pop up is the move that will take you from the sitting
position to paddling smoothly to the upright position on your
feet. Essentially you have tried your first pop up tryout from
the safety of the water.
This method is really essential in the development of your
surfing lesson; stand up and slide your proper feet as swiftly
and smoothly as possible, that is what it is all about. Make
sure that you are quickly up and have the correct positioning
stance. If you are not comfortable practicing in on the
crowded beach, try to do it in your home. This method is
prepared at the moment when you have done enough
paddling to catch the first wave you're waiting for. The pop up
is basically positioning yourself from the sitting position to
paddling to standing with balance and other called it with
grace. Instead of placing your legs and body straight, you need
to bring your legs up and under your body, planting your feet
in the correct position, placing your left leg first if doing a left-
hander wave if you are regular footed and planting your right
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foot first if you are goofy footed. The same rule applies with
the right hander wave.
Catching/Riding the wave
Lying on your board with the paddling position; put your
hands on the rails or at the side of the board. Paddle your way
to catch the wave. When you have sufficient speed to catch
the wave, hold the rail, pull your legs up under you, twist your
body and board around to the correct angle, for the beginner
just do a straight forward approach. Slide the correct foot up
to the nose of the board, position your back foot and lower leg
with pressure resting at the rear of the board. If the front foot
is firmly planted in the correct position, make the squat
position.
Positioning is exceptionally significant when it comes to
surfing. If your feet are not positioned properly, automatically
you'll fall off or you’ll be unable to maneuver to the correct
angle. If you're not in the proper position with paddling or
lining up for the waves, then you'll find yourself taking a
beating each time you surf. If you are not properly positioned
when riding on the wave, then you'll be unable to keep up the
thrust necessary to ride the wave.
(Illustration shows surfers paddle out to the lineup.)
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Chapter 2
Your Surfboard
& Fins
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After you have the theory on how to surf. Let us now choose
what board fits you.
Tips on making choice of your board
Before we move on how you will pick your board we shall
know what kind of board you will be using and what board will
fit your weight.
See these illustrations:
If you are just beginning to learn how to surf then pick the Soft
board as it will be fit for beginners. Why? Because short board
needs a lot of strength to paddle whom beginners don't have
unless fit enough to paddle to the lineup. It will only hamper
paddling for beginners and will result to frustration and
fatigue.
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For beginner class if you haven't entered surfing school or if
you have this is the proper board you will practice on. The soft
board or the “foamies” is very easy to carry because of its
composition so therefore light. With its design the board
makes it very easy to paddle because of lightweight composite
and easy to pop up because it is stable enough to stand up,
most ideal for beginners.
Short Boards
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Long Board or
Funboard
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Tips on how choose of surfboard fins
The choice will be yours to decide but if you are just a
beginner, try to make use of cheaper ones as you may have to
change more often as a result of shifting to a different fin for
better wave performance or damaged fins considering that
beginners tend to break fins quite often.
Fins design is great help for professional surfing contest.
Attaching fin will definitely improve maneuverability but they
must be accustomed to the fin they are using. The thruster or
tri-fin is the commonly used for surfing tournaments. The
single fin is mainly used for longboard surfing.
Here are some fins available on the market:
FCS (fins)
FCS are the leaders in the industry of surf fins. They come to
stock on most new boards, and there is a very large variety of
aftermarket fins to select from.
Future Fins
Future fins are probably the second most popular fin system.
Similar to the FCS fins; Future fins have a wide selection of
aftermarket setups.
Red X
Red X fins are known for their customizability. While not as
common as FCS or Future fins, Red X fins are becoming more
popular every day. The Red X fins is also known to have a very
strong base that can slide along the board.
Lock Box
Lock Box fins is not as common among the average surfboard.
They are usually installed in custom boards. They have
common features to the Red X brand in that they slide up and
down the board.
O’Fish’l
O'Fish'l fins are also known for their customizability. Unlike
other fins this system can interchange different fins quickly
without need for tools.
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Pro Teck
Pro Teck fins are known as "Beginner fins" because of their
concern with safety. The Hawaii-based company produces
flexible fins that cannot cut a person.
The Shaper
A shaper is a person who builds and fashions surfboards
manually.
In the beginning constructed from wood, nearly all modern
surfboards are manufactured from pre-formed polyurethane
blanks or perhaps Styrofoam right after fine shaped by shaper
using variety of tools which ranges from surforms, rasps,
sanding machines and planers.
Once the appearance is sculpted from the foam core, the
shaper can finalize the build by layering fiberglass sheets
covering the deck and bottom by laminating all these with a
thermosetting resin like polyester.
The majority of shapers these days design surfboards by using
distinct computer software which are later supplied to a
computer cutting facility which will mill the raw foam blank
around 90% of the completed shape allowing the shaper to
fine tune the blank to the final form prior to glassing .
This process enables the shaper to create a very accurate and
reproducible design that could be conveniently fine-tuned and
modified.
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Wooden surfboards are making a comeback being an
environmentally friendly alternative that require ultra-light
boatbuilding capabilities.
Numerous skilled shapers actually contract out the highly
specialized lamination to professional "glassers", an individual
who laminates fiberglass to a foam core of the surfboard by
using thermosetting resins such as polyester or epoxy. By the
end of this process fins and assorted plugs usually are installed
following this process and therefore the final product is
quality sanded and often glossed with buffing substance and
special glossing resin. Whilst shaping, the shaper usually
considers the technical specs of the client surfer, and molds
their board to accommodate the user's personal surfing style
and wave of choice.
The shaper is a lot of help especially if you are into
competition. They are expert that will cater your
specification. You can befriend with them and you can almost
have a pit stop every time you need tweaks to your board.
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Chapter 3
Talk Like a Surfer
A_
ASP – (Association of Professional Surfing)
Areal – a maneuver in which both surfer and board launches
into the air to the top of a wave and landing on the
same wave. The surfer sometimes grabs the rail of the
surfboard for stability and to control the surfboard
A-frame – a shape of the wave where it forms a letter A and
the wave breaks nicely
Axed – when a surfer wipes out and hit heavily with the lip of
the wave
B_
Back door – a surfer starts from behind the peak or a section
on a hollow wave, and surf through the barrel or tube
of the wave to the other side of the peak
Backing off – when the wave passes from shallow water to the
deeper water and the wave breaks slowly
Backside – when a surfer’s back is facing the face of the wave
also known as backhand or the behind
Backwash – when a wave hits the shore and backfires. The
backwash creates spectacular explosion when it
collides with the incoming wave. Usually happens
when there is a sea wall
Bail/Bail out – to abandon the surfboard before getting wiped
out
Barrel – a wave’s curl or face where the surfer rides on and
which the water forms like a barrel, also called as tube.
Break – or a wave which is also categorized into 3: Beach
Break where the wave break into sandy seabed
typical for beginners, Point Break where the wave
break into a rocky point which is dangerous and Reef
Break where the wave break into a rocky or coral reef
bed.
Board – surf board
Types of board:
Short Board – or Thruster which size varies from 5’8” to 6’10”,
the nose is pointed and the tail is blunt. Due to its
shortness you can easily perform carves and
maneuvers.
Long Board – size varies from 7’2” to 9’ and has a rounded
nose and tail
The Fish – is almost the same as short board but the tail is cut
like the mouth of a fish, the length is 4’8” to 6’ and has
more width that makes it more rounded shape
The Gun – is shaped like a short board but length like a long
board shaped like a.
Biscuit Board – 6’ under, short and rounded.
Etc.
Board shorts – a short worn while surfing, usually light and
quick drying also worn on warm waters.
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C_
Carve – when you make a turn on a wave, also called carve
because it left an impression like carving on the wave.
Caught inside – a circumstance in which a surfer is trapped
between the shoreline and breaking waves. This
usually means the surfer will have to wait for a lull
between the larger breaking waves for a chance to slip
into clear water.
Channel – shape of the bottom of the board where grooves
are cut lengthwise along the surfboard, usually
through the tail half.
Chinese Wax Job – when applying wax underneath the board
Choppy – bouncy wave condition due to high wind velocity
hitting the water.
Clean – good surfing conditions with decent wave, a smooth
or glassy ocean surface and very little onshore wind.
Offshore winds blowing into the faces of the waves can
create clean waves.
Clidro – when a surfer moves up and down on the face of the
wave while surfing down the line
Climbing and dropping – moving up and down the face of a
wave as you surf down the line, very good technique
for gaining speed with each turn.
Close Out – where a wave breaks together with its length all
at once
Clucked – being afraid of waves
Comb/Wax comb – a tool to remove or scrape the wax from
the board
Consistent – a surf condition when waves are coming in very
repeatedly and in predictable quantities.
Corduroy – swell lines that look like corduroy.
Cowabunga – the ninja turtles often say this word. Slang is
from 1960's surf culture surfer’s cry as they climb a
12 foot wall of water and "take the drop."
Cross Step / Stepping – surfer’s technique when riding a
longboard where they move up and down the
surfboard.
Cutback – making a cutback is reversing the direction that you
are surfing in one smooth fluid move.
D_
Deck – top side of the board where you stand on.
Ding – damage on the board
Double up – when two waves combine, often creating a more
powerful wave with twice the amount of energy and
often creates a tube.
Drag – the resistance of water as it passes through the board.
Drive – the effect of wave’s pressure pushing your board
forward, which creates acceleration down the line on a
wave.
Drop – the initial part of a ride when a surfer slides or drop
down the face of the wave. It's also referred to as
"taking the drop."
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Drop In – is against the rule of surfing. A drop-in is where a
surfer catches a wave without having priority to his co-
surfer. When a surfer catches a wave but somebody
catches it first, sort of stealing the wave.
Duck Diving – is diving under or plunging an oncoming wave in
a paddling position.
E_
Eat It – wiping out on a wave.
Eddy – is a circular movement of water, air, or wind that
develops on the side of the main body of movement.
Eddies will develop in areas adjacent to where the
main body of movement is interrupted by projecting
obstructions like points of land or islands. Southern
California is a classic area for a near-shore south wind
eddy system when strong northwesterly winds blow in
the outer waters. Point Conception, the offshore
islands, and low-pressure inland all contribute to the
development of the eddy circulation.
Epic – top class surf or extremely good waves; description of
an awesome wave or surf session
F_
Face - The steep part front of a wave and where most wave
riding occurs.
Fakie – when a surfer rides backwards on the surfboard, tail
first.
FCS – (fin control system) this is a type of fin that is fully
detachable from the surfboard. It's ideal if you break a
fin (you don't have to get a new on glassed back on), or
if you are travelling.
Fin – a control mechanism attached to the tail and bottom
part of surf board which is used for mobility and
stability also called a skeg.
Firing – where the surf is really good and the waves are
breaking nicely.
Flat - The steepening shoreward front of a wave, where most
wave riding occurs.
Floaters – a maneuver which the surfer rides over and along
the top of a breaking wave, sliding across broken foam
or a pitching lip, then drops back down into the main
part of the wave.
Foam/Foamies – a liquid material used to mold the surf board
after it hardens or the white water bubbles left over
from a breaking wave.
Frube – unlucky surfer who does not catch a wave for the
whole surfing session in the water
G_
Glasser – person who is employed to laminate surfboards
using fiberglass resin
Glassy – this is ultra-clean surf without a ripple that often
looks like glass.
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Goofy / Goofy Foot – surfing stance with your right foot
forward
Gidget – this is the nickname for a small female surfer
(derived from “girl midget”)
Green Room – part inside the tube or barrel
Gremmie / Grommet / Grom – nick name for novice or a
young in-experienced surfer.
Grubbing – falling off your board while surfing
Gun – see board
H_
Hang Eleven – when a male surfer rides on the board surfing
naked
Hang Ten – an execution on a longboard where a surfer plants
both of his feet on the nose of the board also a brand
of surfing magazine.
Hard core – extremely dedicated surfing fanatic or committed
to the surfing lifestyle.
Ho-dad – anyone who annoys board riders while they surf or a
non-surfing beach bum
I_
Impact Zone – the part of the shore where the waves are
breaking
In the Soup – term used when a surfer is on the foam after the
wave breaks
Indo – short for Indonesia
J_
Junkyard Dog – awkward surfer with poor style or a surfer
who only surfs crappy waves
K_
Keg – see barrel
Knee boarding – another kind of wave riding with your knees
using a special knee board.
Kook – a novice, beginner or someone who is not very good at
surfing
L_
Layback – is a surfing maneuver where the surfer literally lays
his/her back on the wave. It's one of surfing's more
extreme tricks.
Leash – is the cord that is attached from the board to your leg.
Line Up – is the place just outside the breaking waves where
surfers wait for their waves
Locked In – when a wave crashes and the surfer is carried in it
Lull – is when the wave goes flat and consistent breaking of
the wave.
M_
Men In Grey Suits – slang for shark
Mullering – high level of wipe out
N_
New School – the term given to trick surfing — airs, shove-its,
etc
Noodled / Noodle Arms – exhausted or tired arms
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Nose – front part of the board, 12 inch from the tip
P_
Paddlepuss – someone who stays and plays in the whitewater
close to the beach
Party Wave – usually a long wave surfed by several people at
once
Peak – a part of the wave where water is most high or the tip
of the wave also when a wave swells at its highest.
Perl / Pearl – this is a common term describing when a person
buries the nose of their surfboard in the wave and goes
"over the falls”.
Pipeline – is a surf reef break located in Hawaii, off Ehukai
Beach Park in Pupukea on O'ahu's North Shore. The
spot is notorious and famous for its huge waves
breaking in shallow water just above its sharp and
cavernous reef, forming large, hollow and thick curls of
water that surfers can ride inside
Pumping – it is when the waves are decent and strong; used
also to describe surfer when generating speed
Q_
Quiksilver – one of the largest and famous surfing apparel
manufacturer in the surfing world and normal people
alike.
R_
Rail – the siding of your surfboard where you grab for areal
maneuver etc.
Rail Bang – the instance where you fall off and take the
surfboard between the legs and it hurts
Raked Over – to be hammered by incoming waves while
paddling out
Regular / Regular Footed – surfing with your left foot forward
the opposite of Goofy Footed
Rip / Riptide – a strong current moving opposite to the
upcoming wave. Rip currents are water channels that
flow away from shore. Since these currents lurk in
seemingly calm waters, tired or inexperienced
swimmers or surfers can be swept away. A riptide
usually has a width of forty or fifty feet. By paddling
parallel to the shore, a surfer can escape the rip
current.
Rock Dance – when a surfer maneuvers into and out of the
rocks
S_
SAS – Surfers Against Sewage.
Shaper – the one who sculpt, curves, plain and sand your
board. Surfboard worker aside from designer and
glasser
Shove-it – shove-it is a maneuver where the rider shoves the
surfboard round underneath the feet, 180 or 360
degrees. It's a good trick if you can do it.
Shubie – surfing enthusiast who buys surfing products and
don’t even surf
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Sick – a surfer who does an impressive move or a very
impressing maneuver
Skeg – native name for fins
Slash – a maneuver where a surfer turns rapidly on top of the
wave to throw a spray of water.
Snake / Snaking – a greedy surfer who steals a wave
Sponger – bodyboarder
Stick – slang for surf board
Stoked – being happy or very happy
Swallow Tail – is also a surfboard tail design that looks like a
stinger
Swell – as a surfing term, it is where from the sea, the water
start to take a shape of a lump before it takes became
a wave. It is generated when wind blows consistently
over a large area of open water, called the wind's
fetch. The size of a swell is determined by the strength
of the wind and the length of its fetch and duration.
Switch Stance – when a surfer’s stance switches from regular
to goofy foot or otherwise
T_
Tail – simply described as is the lower part of the board.
Tail Designs: Squash Tail, Squash Tail, Thumb Tail,
Rounded Pintail, Pintail, Baby Swallowtail, Baby
Swallowtail, Bat Tail and Wing
Tail Slide – is a move where the tail of the board slides across
the lip of the wave.
Thruster – popular name for a tri-fin short board or three fin
surf board
Tube – or barrel
Turtle Roll – is a technique to avoid wipe out on a long board.
The surfer rolls on the side to avoid the wave from
hitting him/her
Twinzer – a popular name for a four fin board
U_
Underwater – under the water
W_
Wax –it is used to provide traction of your feet to avoid
slipping
Washing Machine – is getting caught and spun around by the
wave
Wedge – a wave condition in which two waves converge
together and merge in from the sides to create a more
powerful A-frame type of wave. A wedge can be
created by a reflected wave bouncing off an obstacle
like a rock, or wall and then merging with the original
part of the wave that came straight in. A wedge can
also be created by a portion of the wave refracting or
wrapping in from deeper water like a channel or
underwater canyon to merge with the original part of
the wave coming straight in. Wedges create good
shaped waves with rights and lefts, along with more
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powerful waves than normal, which naturally attract
good surfers.
Wetsuit – it is a suit that surfer wears on a cold seas to
prevent heat from escaping the body
Wipe-out – falling of your board
X_
Xtreme – extreme surfing
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Chapter 4
The Unwritten
Law of Surfing
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Rules/Law of Surfing
Every sport activity must have its own rules especially in the
crowded sport or recreation. Rules keep participants focused
on what they are doing and prevent any accidents from
occurring as well as keep friendly atmosphere in the
environment. Surfing must have its own basic rules that
should be planted in every surfer’s mind. Surfing is a highly
hazardous sport not just because of the water but because of
the jam-packed participants that may be unfamiliar with the
rules. Some of these rules may not be thought by some surfing
schools but it’s important that common surfer must have the
common sense of these basic rules on surfing.
Don’t Drop In
I reiterate that dropping-in is where a surfer catches a wave
without having priority to his co-surfer. When a surfer catches
a wave but somebody catches it first, sort of stealing the
wave. It is a sin on surfing to drop in from your fellow surfer
not only you can cause trouble with your co-surfer but you
could cause accident toward him/her. When accidents do
occur, rescue may not be that easy most especially if there is
no rescuer available.
Right of way
The surfer who paddles out to the line-up first should have the
right of way. You can own the wave unless the first surfer on
the line-up gives you a go signal.
Share the Wave
Sharing the wave provides healthy environment with your co-
surfer.
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Don’t be a “Snake”
As we all know greed is a deadly sin and it could be deadly as
well on surfing. Snaking can cause accident when that surfer
you snaked upon does not know. You may collide to him and
then one of you or both possibly will caught-inside the wave
which is a deadly consequence and what might he do to you
as revenge.
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Chapter 5
Healthy Surfing
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Why do you surf?
There are no shortages of reasons why we surf. Others serious
surfer junkie does it as sport some as recreation on weekends
and other just want to try the sport.
The confessions of a Hard Core surfer:
Number one on the list is that they say “surfing is a lot of fun”,
definitely surfing is tons of fun. (1) When it gets into your
system you can barely notice time passed. That shows how
fun surfing is. (2) There is no better feeling than surfing. It is a
wonderful union of near silence and total solitude with
incredible excitement, all at one time. It is so much fun. (3)
Riding the wave gives so much thrill, being in the water is the
best place to be “at peace” and the sunset is breathtaking. I
couldn’t be more thankful than being alive. (4) The wave is a
powerful force to be wrecked with but when I surf, I can tame
the wave which gives me so much power than the wave. (5)
Riding the wave boosts adrenaline to your system which gives
you excitement and you can’t help but smile. (6) Surfing is like
the closest thing to flying. (7) It relieves my stress and it clears
my mind. It takes you into another dimension. (8) Its
rewarding when you catch the perfect wave after waiting so
much time. The patience pays off. (9) Apart from having fun, it
gave me a healthy body. (10) It gives me determination, when
I wipe-out, I get up and catch that perfect wave again. It is also
the best time to practice my skill. I realized that I can integrate
surfing with my life, having determination in life. (11) With
this fun, I realized how little in life I actually needed to be
happy.
So the surfers themselves said it all. Surfing is so much fun
with a huge after effect of happiness and excitement.
(See?)
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How does surfing change my life?
The first impression that we hear about surfers are thrill
seekers and even don’t take life seriously for having fun all day
but we don’t really know what is on the back of their minds
unless we hear from them.
Here were what they spoken:
(1)From a low level person who don’t understand life and low
social aptitude, I regain my composure and relieved my
depression so now I just another guy in the face of the world.
(2)I just found out that I am a sporty type and an outgoing
person. I moved out from the city to live near the sea. I
learned to surf, never thought that I will be fit and happy for
years.
(3)Before I was a laid back type of a person, I lived in a slow
going life, after work I go to home and no outdoors. Now I
enjoyed the outdoors and especially the sea. I never went
back doing those days of being a couch potato. On weekends,
I enjoy surfing with my dudes.
(4)Surfing had been my religion but after crazy wipe outs it
made me closer to GOD, I think he always guide me through
the waves. I never thought I could love life more and love
other people’s life as well.
(5)I’ve moved near the beach, I learned to surf since then I
enjoyed life in general, I’m healthy and fit as can be.
Most of these surfers in particular clearly changed their life in
many ways; being healthy, lost depression, enjoyed life and
pure fun from having no fun at all.
Surfing can cure depression
Surfing or any other sport activity has proven to relieve
depression. In order to keep your physical and psychological
health is in-fact extremely imperative that on a regular basis
you exercise a sport activity. Currently there are a lot from
that you could very well select without doubt there will
certainly not be an issue in choosing one. Anytime selecting a
sport is without a doubt very critical to discover one that is
well suited for you and your physical condition.
Around the planet folks are generally exercising all kind of
sports that have tremendous impact on your own physical as
well as emotional situation. Being physically and mentally fit
isn’t that hard and expensive to invest. All you need is a board,
wave and the sunshine.
Having friends also keeps individual from depression. You can
meet lot of friends on the line-up as well or your lover.
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Surfing is addictive?
Yes in some cases, some serious surfer feels tired or bored if a
week passed and still didn’t surf. Majority of psychologist said
it is more on the adrenaline addiction “feel good drug”.
Adrenaline junkie is a term used to describe somebody who
appears to be addicted to epinephrine (endogenous) and such
a person is sometimes described as getting a "high" from life.
The term adrenaline junkie was popularly used in the 1991
movie Point Break to describe individuals who enjoyed
dangerous activities for the adrenaline "rush". Adrenaline
junkies appear to favor stressful activities for the release of
epinephrine as a stress response. Doing this may result in
physical harm because of the potential danger. Whether or
not the positive response is caused specifically by epinephrine
is difficult to determine, as endorphins are also released
during the fight-or-flight response to such activities.
To be informed what an adrenaline addiction is, you have to
know what the symptoms are. Addiction leads to craving but
unlike artificial drugs, adrenaline is natural to our body and
therefore the symptoms are not obvious. Adrenaline junkie
don’t realize that the effects of adrenaline isn’t found doing an
activity, it’s found before doing something, as that’s when the
adrenaline starts to build up, doing the activity dissipates the
chemical. Hence the nerves disappearing as soon as example
someone steps onstage or begins a performance or
competition. When adrenaline is often ejected by your body
for example every day, the body actually memorizes the
feeling and can cause to the release a lot earlier than required.
A normal build up, can occur anywhere between 0-15mins
before an activity. This will be uncontrollable at first and may
take many months of frequency before the signs are obvious.
Eventually though, you can get to the stage where you can
trigger the affect by thinking about the activity in any
situation. Now I know this isn’t showing the effects of an
addiction, its merely showing how the cause can lead to the
effect and the recognition of how it can be summoned with
thought.
As more adrenaline is rushed to your body, that individual can
no longer accurately measure risk of his activity. A person is
more likely to take a chance and gamble on a situation. This
can favor surfers into contest as they can pull of tricks without
hesitation. The payoff is greater reward but more afterwards
leading to a further risk required next time for the same rush
as accident may occur due to lack of judgment.
Prolonged doses of adrenaline, without dissipation, can lead
to serious long term effects like anxiety attacks.
You can consult a physician or you can control the amount of
surfing you’ve practiced. Apparently this implies to avid
surfers only with the habit of going to surf almost every day.
The adrenaline causes you to feel good and make you
confident more often. That is why it keeps you from
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depression. So adrenaline may not be a bad drug after all
unlike artificial drug that causes apparent damage to health
and mentality.
Exercise & lose weight surfing
Surfing bums do get very healthy and fit body. Envy? Fit
persons always get a lot of attention and they do have a great
deal of confidence. Don’t worry, there are hundreds of things
you can perform depending on your health situation and your
routine even if you are far away from your surf session. Being
healthy and fit is the closest thing from drinking the fountain
of youth. Tons of weight loss programs were scattered on the
net by way of tapes, nutrition books etc, yes it can help you to
be fit and these techniques have leaked so let us explain this
here together with the activities surf bums are doing while
surfing or not.
Weight lifting
Some say lifting weights won’t get you thinner, don’t get me
wrong but there are training routines you can follow to lose
that extra pounds. Lifting weights have a setback though; it
needed to be coupled with diet meals. This can also help you
paddle an extra mile whilst the later didn’t. These are the few
of what weight lifting grant you; as I said, it can help you
paddle more unlike before because of the core strength and
muscle endurance it provides, helps you avoid injuries like
broken bones because it will strengthen your muscle/muscle
mass, for girls it prevents or lessen the risk of osteoporosis or
lose of bone mass when growing old, it aides faster
metabolism therefore it helps you burn your excess fat to
convert it to muscle tissue and burns your meal faster, it
improves your coordination and balance and increase your
confidence and self esteem.
Refer to your gym instructions before you do it on your own.
Unrehearsed lifting can promote to injuries and uneven
muscles build up.
Surfer revelation:
“There isn’t two ways to lose weight, there is only one; burn
off more calories than you eat it is as simple as that. Running
is fine but you can run all day and still not lose weight if you
eat loads (come and look at the fatties on running machines
down my gym if you don’t believe me). Also don’t stay away
from complex carbs; you want those in your diet.
Really the best way is to work out how many calories you use
in a day and plan out your diet around that, a high protein diet
would be what I recommend and plan it around 5-6 small
meals a day instead of 3 big ones
btw, I know a bit about this, I lost over 50lbs in under a year
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without losing a single pound of lean mass just by doing
weights, surfing and planning my diet.”
High Cardio work out
Surfing is a high cardio work out but if you are aiming to burn
flab of fat, you can try some of other work out routines and
you need to burn enough calories to make a significant
impact. In order to lose a pound in one week, you need to
create a 3,500-calorie deficit; in other words, you need to
burn off 3,500 more calories than you eat. A 30-minute power
walk on flat ground burns about 120 calories. So, to burn out 1
pound of fat by walking, you'd have to adjust it for more than
2 hours a day.
High cardio work out does not need two hours of work each
day and does healthy eating habits. So try to quit on that
heavy meals regimen to reach your goal of being a surfing
bum. The best way to lose fat is to create a calorie deficit by
burning calories through exercise and cutting calories you eat.
For instance, in a whole week, you may cut 250 calories per
day by eating low calorie diet or light food in other word limit
your eating habit but don't skip meals otherwise you'll starve
and in return you'll eat more for the next meal. Meanwhile,
you could burn an extra 250 calories a day by taking a one-
hour walk or a half-hour jog.
Cardio exercise is the main factor of a weight-loss plan. You
also need to revamp your eating habits and embark on a
weight-training program. Also, keep in mind that losing weight
is not as easy as it sounds on TV diet commercials. It takes a
lot more commitment than just drinking that delicious shake
for breakfast. And it takes time. Realize, too, that your gene
plays a large role in weight loss. It's easier for some people to
lose weight than it is for others.
“There are two easy things to losing weight:
1 - heavy cardiovascular workouts (running, swimming,
surfing, biking)
2 - eat healthy (self explanatory, stay away from complex
carbs, sugars, calories, etc.)
Run as often as you can. I don’t know your level of running,
but if you can discipline yourself you should be doing
anywhere from 3 to 5 miles a day at a decent pace. Try to put
in a 20 mile week if possible, remember that it won’t be easy
to lose 30 lbs.
Swimming is great to fat burn, too, but you have to do it in a
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larger quantity than running. You'll have to do at least 3000m
a day to see any results from swimming but it’s still great
exercise and it increase strength really well.
It just comes down to self-discipline. If you can have a good
workout routine and a good diet, then in no time you'll be
where you want to be but it won’t be fun. I’m sure you will be
bored to go running 5 miles a day, or swimming for 2 hours
straight. Just do it for the surf. That’s all we've got in the end,
anyways.”
The average calorie burned in an hour while surfing is 110.
Yoga
Yoga is as they say in direct opposite of weight lifting,
although the common denominator is your healthy well being
but the style is totally different. Quite a lot of surfers believe
that weight lifting will only make your body bulky and difficult
to move so therefore it will hamper your dexterity. While yoga
make your body flexible and in great balance but while
extreme surfing demands more strength, you can also lift
weights but either way you can chose or fuse them to make
you a better surfer. Now we’ll talk on how yoga can lose your
weight and fit and increase your performance.
Surfing is always recommended to be paired with a form of
exercise to avoid muscle cramps and injuries or something
that gives emphasis on stretching such as yoga. Yoga can work
your body parts which are not typically worked out on surfing.
With this, you are assured that you've got a complete activity
for your entire body.
It can revitalize your self-awareness making your body and
mind co-exist in perfect equilibrium. Yoga sharpens your
concentration, helping you to obtain perfect stability.
Because yoga is a form of stretching exercise, it will
significantly improve the flexibility of every part of your
body. Being flexible is vital to consistency of the board
while surfing a wave. Flexibility achieved by applying yoga
to surfing also helps you move with more freedom,
balance and comfort. So therefore it is a lot of help in your
surfing.
Patience is a virtue, especially on surfing. Certainly surfing
takes time to perfect and you will need to have a great
deal of patience in order to leverage your surfing skills.
With a little more practice, you will get more
understanding of reaching your body's equilibrium
however this may require time. Some may learn to surf in
just a couple of days yet some may require several weeks
or months with a very long learning process. Using the aid
of yoga, meditation and breathing techniques will help you
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become a more patient surfer. The widened patience that
you gain from exercising yoga can even be beneficial while
waiting quality waves while on the line-up.
“Yoga is great for improving:
over all fitness and cardio
patience
dexterity and suppleness
focus and concentration
all of which are needed for surfing.
It's not all about contorting yourself into odd postures and
meditating. There are many different forms of yoga, and if you
look into it you will find one that is right for you. Hatha yoga
forms tend to be gentler and less dynamic, which is a good
intro for beginners.”
Right Nourishment
It is perhaps the most hurtful of all in healthy surfing plan.
Food is very difficult to get rid in excess. Just by looking at
tasty foods, you can’t help but be tempted. You do need more
food to replace that calorie lost during surfing but eat a
healthy food. Eating less food while surfing can harm you, our
body is like a car, it also needs fuel but in order for us to gain
that extra mile, we need to eat good nutrition.
Eat an organic food which is now wide spread in the market,
health and free of chemicals. Lessen your eating of packaged
or processed foods; some of the ingredients were harmful
chemicals to preserve the food but not your body. Avoid too
much sugar.
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Eat a balanced carb and protein diet not a low carb diet. Your
body need to replenish the energy lost during surfing by
eating carb rich food and protein for muscle tissue
regeneration also it is needed for the brain to function well for
better decision making not risk making.
Rich protein foods are meats; chicken, fish, dairy goods;
cheese, milk and beans. Rich in carbohydrates are rice,
oatmeal, taro, potato, corn fruits and vegetables.
Drink a lot of water, water evaporates quickly out your body
through perspiration due to heavy cardio surfing plus sea
water only stimulates quick lose of water to your body. Drink 8
glasses a day or more if you sweat a lot. Water helps
metabolize the food that you eat so that your body will
function well. Rehydrate to avoid heat stroke.
Live a healthy habit
If you want to be fit with consistency rather than just having
your weight bouncing up and down as you diet, give up, and
back on a diet.
Change your life plan.
Diets and weights are all very well, but most people lose
motivation or put it back on once they've hit their target
weight.
The motivation for going to the gym, swimming lengths, eating
properly is more or less, roughly, give or take zero if not done
regularly.
Cycle for instance 30 miles a day. Surf instead of sitting on the
couch in front of the TV, walk instead of riding a car. Do
something fun instead of going to the pub.
What I mean is, as well as the diet etc, once the weight is
off, keep it off and stay fit by maintaining the habit.
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Can a large person surf?
Some may find it awkward and you may find it hard to do trick
if you aren’t that mobile. But with a little enthusiasm and
eagerness you can learn to surf and maybe this will add you
additional dexterity. Try to see a board from the illustration
that will carry your height and choose the one with extra
thickness (3 inch) so that you will float and paddle.
Before you buy a board, just rent first to keep you from buying
more surfboard before you trim to your regular weight.
Can a fat person surf?
Yes you can if you have the desire. It is a very fantastic site
when big surfers learn to surf. You will empress the crowd and
with a little side effect that will make you pleased. Surfing can
nip away those extra inches from your body.
Try to practice first or learn lessons with few crowds and make
yourself a pro. Crowd maybe annoying sometimes and you
could lose your enthusiasm and you may never learn to surf.
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Chapter 6
Safety Health Tips
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Sunblock for Surfers
You can’t enjoy too much fun in the sun without sun block.
Over exposure to the sun with its harmful ultra violet (UV)
rays is the main cause of skin cancer. UV rays can trigger skin
cancer by emulating changes in the cells of the skin. Also it will
cause your skin with nasty sunburns and other indirect effects
that could later on develop like cataracts.
Consider these healthy tips that may help you prevent UV rays
from penetrating your body.
1) The best sun block of all is the natural protection with
the shade like hut, T-shirt, hats and natural body
protection like vitamin D. If you are only sightseeing
and not planning to surf for the day.
2) Try to wear long sleeve shirts to cover body and arms.
3) Wear sunglasses if you may because harmful UV rays
will be dissipated with anti UV sunglasses.
4) Try to surf when the sun is off its peak early in the
morning and late in the afternoon or as much as
possible avoid surfing from 10:00 am to 4:00 in the
afternoon.
5) Sun can still penetrate through the clouds, so use sun
block when eager to surf.
Sun block choosing tips:
1) Sun block contains substance that aides to prevent
harmful UV rays that can harm your skin. At least 3
substances were normally found on sun blocks these
are: Zinc, Titanium dioxide, Avobenzone or Mexoryl SX,
if found more than this, try to avoid buying unless you
needed to supplement other deficiency of your body
like vitamin D and with anti-oxidant to lessen wrinkles.
2) Choose sun block that is water resistant that won’t
deter fast or sticks with your skin longer. All that sea
water and perspiration will wash away those cheap sun
blocks.
3) Opt only cream based sun-block and stay away from
powder or spray based. Powder and spray based sun-
block contains small particles that may be harmful
when inhaled.
4) Good news is that the sun provides vitamin D if sun is
at its low peak.
5) Bad news is that too much vitamin A may only speed
up growth of tumor on your skin “as study shows”.
6) Pick sun-block with SPF 15-30 only as you desire.
Higher SPF only tempts you to stay on the sun longer.
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Prevent Hair Damage from Sea and Sun
Yes sea water and sun can damage your hair. Why? Because
hair contains 10% moisture and other compounds found on
our body. Sea and sun dries that moisture and leaves our hair
dry and brittle. This only helps to the demographics who want
to look good with their healthy hair especially the dudettes
and other fussy dudes out there. Surfing is fun but only in the
water, what if you are trying to impress a guy or a gal but in a
bad hair day. You can try this few techniques from the expert
on how to care for your hair from the sun.
1) Before you go out surfing, dampen your hair with
saturated water, it will avert sea water from soaking in.
2) Use mild shampoo or never shampoo at all when
surfing; it causes the natural oils to wash away from
your hair, a vital ingredient that protects your hair
naturally.
3) Apply sunscreen to protect your hair from drying up
moistures.
4) Or you can use conditioner for more moisture and
protection to your hair
5) After surfing, use detox shampoo to remove sea water.
6) If possible, invest on weekly deep condition.
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How to treat Sea Urchin Sting?
There are hundreds of known species of sea urchins and few
of those can deliver some nasty sting. Sea urchins are found
anywhere in the globe. It has spiny stingers and other species
is known to have venom. Its spines alone hurt badly when
stepped upon or touched plus venom adds extra tingle when
triggered. Due to numerous species of sea urchin, we cannot
determine how to treat injuries with standard.
These are the few known example on how to treat sea urchin
sting. Choose on what you prefer.
When you stepped on a sea urchin, this will really hurt
extremely more over when you step on big ones.
Seek medical attention if near the hospital.
Some marine biologist say to pee on the spines and with
effect. Ammonia from urine helps neutralize the venom but it
won’t dissolve the spines. Spines will just dissolve on their
own. Don’t try to dig deep to get them out.
Soak towel on vinegar and put it on wound when you don’t
want to pee on the wounds.
Some doctors say that urine will only infect the wound.
Soak your feet on hot water to ease minimal pain.
The best way to avoid sea urchin injuries are wearing shoes
and be vigilant to avoid side reefs because that’s where they
are hiding.
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Maintain surfing physique
If you’re dormant on surfing for a month and gained lot of
fats, surfing may not be easy for you. Paddling will become bit
of a drag. All those shoulder muscles has slept and needs to be
awaken.
Before you think of having a rest on surfing in just a while or a
month, find ways to maintain your physique by exercising or
other activities that can maintain your strength and cardio.
So that when you miss surfing, getting back should be hassle
free and no more sore muscles.
Try some of these exercises for your shoulder muscle maintain
or gain strength for paddling.
You use your chest and shoulders quite a bit while surfing,
especially when paddling and when popping up to ride a wave.
The bench press is probably the most popular upper body
exercise, but other useful ones are lat pull downs, tri-cep pull
downs, curls, even simple pushups and other shoulder
rotation exercises.
Maintain your dexterity and mobility by stretching to make
you more flexible and mobile, which allows you to accomplish
more on your board. You can do simple stretching exercises
almost anywhere, and yoga is an option for a more structured
activity. Pretty much every muscle can benefit from
stretching, including hamstrings, calves, pectorals, and the
lower back stretching, including hamstrings, calves, pectorals,
and the lower back.
Keep your leg’s strength for extra balance and to handle
maneuvers when you get back to surfing. Properly working
out your legs also will help you avoid injury to your ankles and
knees. Examples of leg and lower body surfing exercises are
squats, lunges, hip abductions and adductions, and calf raises.
Once you’ve surfed, you’ll always surf. But before you go back
surfing after long vacation, take extra precaution because your
body is not as better as before but if you are exercising, risk of
having an injury is slim. Surfing is exciting and fun sport that
can make you happy with just a little amount of money.
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Chapter 7
Surfing Trip
Pack for surfing trip
Panning for a surf vacation? It is better to be prepared
whenever you are in a surf trip on the road and on the beach.
A well planned trip is very rewarding when you are enjoying
your time spent at the surf camp but you must pack things you
desired to be satisfied and what things you needed the most
with surfing before you get there. You can follow this
reference if you like on what to carry for packing your things
up.
Bring two or more surfboard with you, your favorite and your
back up. You can never be sure when your surfboard breaks
“hopefully not”. But if you have the economic advantage at
your side then its ok to bring one, you can always buy another
board but if no surf shop available near, so then you’ll be
forced to bring a back up. Surfing is never a surfing without a
board.
Don’t forget the surfing requisites, the leashes, lot of wax, fins
with extra set, fin key and wax comb.
Bring also a repair kit for your board or ding kit before it crack
even more or hurt you for the worst.
Then pack with you your body essentials like sunblock,
wetsuits, boardshorts and insect repellants.
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Why Travel for a Surf vacation?
Surf travel is one of the great passions to some and they have
done many surf trips to exotic locations as well. Some have
done extensive travel outside of surfing, but surf trip has
always been the favorite way to see the world. On a surf trip,
you typically end up at some exotic location like South
America, South Africa, Hawaii and South East Asia etc.
Typically this exotic location you end up in is somewhere
many only see in postcards of some perfect island paradise.
Also, surfing a few hours in the morning and evening leaves
you plenty of time for relaxation and to get out and see the
sites and meet the locals.
Included in the list for travel is to take their first surf trip with
the purpose of learning to surf by finding a good surf camp. A
sample "where to surf" guide as I've said with this book will
reveal hundreds of surf camps around the world. There are
many surf camps in places like Costa Rica, Mexico, Indonesia,
Australia and Hawaii that specialize in teaching people how to
surf. These surf camps are often a week long and are staffed
with skilled surf instructors. By the time you leave, you will be
an intermediate class surfer that can pop up on a wave and
ride. Very satisfying vacation indeed. Other surf camps are
intended for professional surfers and offer tours to surf spots
you never knew existed. Some of these camps are setup to
cater to women surfers as well with weeklong women only
sessions.
Try and visit other country to travel at least a few times a year
on a surf trip and enjoy the beauty of places with adventure. It
is always great to see new locations and experience new
culture.
Know about the Locals
Like in a society, or even with your other buddy, surfing has its
dark side. Surfers that surf the same spots a lot start to feel
like that spot is theirs or like being a territorial animal. They
like to take a sense of ownership of the spot. Some locals feel
like they should get all, or most of the waves out there. New
people who show up are considered intruders. Localism may
show itself as; someone yelling towards you, dropping-in on
you, flattening your tires, waxing your windshield, or even
throwing your shoes and or back pack in the water, along with
many dirty tactics. Here are some things you can do to be
accepted with the locals. Respect the locals, if you are a
beginner you probably should not surf the same surf spots as
them. You will most likely just get in their way, and give
yourself and the locals a bad experience. Be patient enough to
gain your respect from them. When you are ready to surf with
them, just try to be nice and give them smile. You will find that
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most of the locals are regular guys and gals who when treated
nicely, and with respect will respond in the same way. Avoid
being a show off. Don't contest with the bigger waves and
don't show that you are far more superior. It's is very difficult
to be friends with the locals especially if they don't know your
dialect, language gap is always the barrier to get acquaintance
with other locals. Always lower your tone when you speak to
avoid misunderstanding. Once you've gain their respect, they
can never be that bad at all. You can even have a plus if they
tour you around and show their hospitality.
Big wave surfing
Big Wave Surfing is a discipline within surfing in which
experienced surfers paddle into or are towed onto waves
which are at least 20 feet high almost like a tsunami, on a gun
surfboard that has less drag and fast moving. Sizes of the
board needed to successfully surf these waves vary by the size
of the wave along with the skills the surfer uses to reach the
wave. A larger, longer board allows a rider to paddle fast
enough to catch the wave and has the advantage of being
more stable, but it also restricts maneuverability and surfing
speed. In early 90's, tow in surfing was introduced. This type
of surfing involves being towed in to massive waves by Jet Ski,
allowing for the speed needed to successfully ride. Tow in
Surfing greatly influenced board size, allowing surfers to trade
in their unwieldy 12 ft. boards for the sake of light, 7 ft boards
that allowed for more speed and easier maneuverability in
waves over 30 ft. By the end of the 1990s, tow in surfing
allowed surfers to ride waves exceeding 50 ft. Tow in surfing
also is a great help during wipe out and rescue where jet skis
run across big waves before it breaks at them.
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Where is the best spot to learn to surf?
The expert says that the best part of the world to surf is in
Australia and Bali Indonesia. These islands are outfitted with
surf schools for beginners and some of the barrels as well for
the expert class.
You can also check the internet for more detailed guidelines of
where you will plan to surf and vacation.
http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/and here are some places
where you can surf in your continent to your locality and
check on that site if there are available resorts that can cater
your needs or whether you’re planning to visit these places
and in the same time learn how to surf.
• Australia
• Azores
• Bali
• Barbados
• Brazil
• Fuerteventura
• G-Land
• Galapagos
• Hawaii
• Hinako
• California
• Costa Rica
• Dominican Republic
• Ecuador
• El Salvador
• England
• Florida
• France
• Ireland
• Java
• Lanzarote
• Madeira
• Maldives
• Mentawai
• Mexico
• Morocco
• New Zealand
• Panama
• Papua New Guinea
• Peru
• Philippines
• Portugal
• Tahiti
• Tonga
• Puerto Rico
• Samoa
• Senegal
• South Africa
• Spain
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• Sri Lanka
• Sumatra
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Thanks to the reader, all this is possible because you want to know about surfing. Thanks to the surfing world and the one who gave
us this wonderful curls. This book is made possible because you want it. All of these are answers to your questions. It does have a
disclaimer though. Some of the information may not be that accurate and outdated but I have tried to update it. All in all, this book
serves as a guide to all your surfing needs.