Post on 29-Jul-2016
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How to Sew Using Patterns After learning to sew, it's a natural step to learning to sew with
a pattern. Being able to sew using a pattern will provide you
with many options for creating garments, costumes, soft
furnishings, toys, and other items that can be sewn. This
article explains how to sew using patterns.
Choosing Your Size
1 Select the right size for the person who will wear the
garment. If it's for you, have a friend measure you first.Do
keep in mind that the units you choose for measurement
should not change as it may cause confusion while stitching.
Remember, it will not necessarily be the same size as the
ready-to-wear clothing you already own, as pattern sizing can
vary considerably from what you're used to wearing. Look on
the back of the pattern envelope and determine your size by
the "finished" measurements it provides.
Most pattern companies follow an international code for
sizes.[1]
2 Watch out for multi-sized patterns. Some patterns are
multi-sized. This means that they will be suitable for a wide
range of sizes, although they'll usually still provide an
indication of the size range. You'll need to look on the pattern
itself for the markings of where to cut for each size.
3 Leave space for alterations. All patterns contain an
allowance for fit, known as "fit or wearing ease", or "designer
ease", assuming they are designed for fabrics that require this
allowance.[2] The allowance is not included for garments
designed for knit fabrics, since these fabrics have natural
stretch. Read the instructions on your pattern to find the
allowance or look on the pattern itself for "finished"
measurements, or something similar.
Compare the difference between the finished measurements
and your body measurements in order to find the allowance.
If you don't want the allowance that is included, or if you want
to make it smaller or larger, you'll need to look out for this.
This allowance will determine what the final size is for the
garment, and indicates whether the garment will fit loosely or
closely. Some companies have a standard allowance that
corresponds to the descriptions (loose-fitting, fitted, etc.).[3]
For beginners it is probably better to ignore all of this, as you
may not be ready to alter patterns. If you're unsure, leave in
the allowance and take the final garment to a tailor.
Reading the Pattern
1 Read the directions. Every pattern comes with step-by-step
instructions on a separate sheet (user guide), as well as the
pattern template sheet (pattern tissue). You should always
read the instructions in the user guide before starting the
sewing project so that you're aware of what's expected.
The advice will include how to cut out the template sheet
(pattern tissue), how to construct the garment or item, the
best way to select sizing, etc.
2
Check for seam allowances. Check the pattern instructions
to find out if the pattern is with or without seam allowances. If
it does not include seam allowances, you'll need to cut the
fabric with the seam allowances later. It is more normal for
seam allowances not to be included.
3 Notice the grain lines. This is a long straight line with arrow
heads at one or both ends. This arrow tells you which
direction the paper pattern pieces should sit over the grain of
the weave (which direction the grain of the fabric needs to
go). For stretch fabrics, they might indicate the direction with
most stretch.
The grain line of the fabric is the same as the direction of the
selvage edges (the white edge where the pattern ends).
Simply locate the selvage edge to determine the grain line or
direction of the fabric.
4 Look for the notches. These are the triangular marks on the
cutting lines. Use them for matching panels precisely, such as
an arm in an armhole. You can get single, double, and triple
notches. Pros will make tiny cuts into the seam allowance
where these notches are but beginners should cut mirrored
triangles beyond the cut line, in order to line up the pattern
pieces.
Usually a single notch indicates the front of a garment while a
double notch indicates the back. This is not universal,
however.[4]
5 Find the dots. These little circles can show where darts, zips,
pockets, or gathering are to be added, though they usually
indicate where you need to place tacks in order to line up two
layers of fabric. Refer to your pattern instructions if you are
unsure.
If the pattern does not explain and you see two matching dots
on opposite pieces of the pattern, then it is reasonable to
assume that these two match up.
Zipper lines are almost always indicated with a zig-zag line
6 Look for button markings. Button placement is usually show
with an X, while button holes are marked with a bracket line
(like the number lines you drew in your math classes),
marking the actual size of the button hole.
7 Look for lengthening and shortening lines. These are
parallel lines, usually placed very close together, that show
where you can increase or reduce the size of the pattern to
improve fit. Always read your pattern instructions to
understand how to deal with these, as it usually varies
between patterns.
8 Use the cutting lines. This line is the thick, solid on the
outside of a pattern. You should cut along this line.
Sometimes it will not be solid and you will see a large number
of lines. These indicate that a number of different sizes can be
cut, by follow a specific pattern line. Sometimes the size is
listed on or near the line, sometimes it is listed in the
instructions.
9 Check for sewing lines. Sometimes this broken or dotted
line is included to indicate where the sewing occurs. It's often
left out because there is a standard understanding that the
sewing occurs 5/8" or 15mm inside the cutting line, so if you
don't see it, don't panic.
10 Sew in darts. If you see a large triangle or diamond shape in
your pattern, this is usually to indicate a dart. Darts shape a
single piece of fabric to make it fit around a curved form.
11 Watch out for fold lines. These lines, usually clearly labeled
on indicated with a special line or bracket, indicate where a
piece of fabric should be folded, not cut. Be careful not to cut
along this line.[5]
Using the Pattern
1 Cut out the pattern pieces. Find each pattern piece that you
will need to use and cut it out. You will cut the fabric using the
solid line on the pattern pieces as a guide.
Use a pair of scissors specifically earmarked for cutting out
paper sewing patterns. Keep another pair of 8" (20.3cm) long
scissors specifically earmarked for cutting out fabric. Sewing
patterns tend to dull scissors and sharp scissors are needed
to easily cut fabric.
If you slip and make a cut where you shouldn't have, simply
tape it back into place as best you can. The important thing is
that the shape is retained and that you can still read the
markings.
You can transfer the final cut-out pattern onto card-stock or
cardboard if you want a stiffer pattern to use.
2 Lay out the patterns according to the user guide. The user
guide will contain a fabric layout guide for each of the items in
the pattern pack.
The layouts can vary according to which fabric widths you've
chosen and whether the fabric is "with nap" or not.[6] The term
"nap" refers to the up-and-down nature of a print (namely,
could the design be cut upside down by accident?).
Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric following the user guide.
Usually you will pin the pieces together using 5/8" (15mm)
seam allowance. However, make sure you double-check the
seam allowance in the pattern because not all patterns use
5/8" (15mm). You can also use pattern weights so you won't
damage fine or delicate fabric with the needles.
You will now have half of the garment. Have a friend check
the fit and help you make any needed alterations in size or
length.
3 Mark and cut the pattern. Mark the pattern using tailor's
chalk or a tracing wheel and tracing paper. You can also
make tape labels for the back of each pattern piece so you
won't get confused when you start to sew and don't know
what you are looking at.
Other Considerations
1 Choose a simple pattern for a first-time sewing
project. The less complicated, the easier it is to learn how to
use the pattern. Always read the description on the pattern
packaging when deciding whether or not the pattern interests
you; it will contain guidance on the item, including suggestions
for wearing or use. In addition to the overall description, the
details about the garment or item are often on the back of the
pattern envelope and will help guide you on fit and style.
2 Check to make sure you like the item. On the pattern you
buy you should find an image of the completed item. Most
patterns will include a photograph of the completed garment
or item on the front of the pattern, with illustrations on the
back. If there are variations such as different sleeve lengths,
different styles, different collars, etc., the images will usually
show these. When trying to get an idea of how a finished
garment will look, refer to the photographs over drawings, as
they're more realistic.
3 Check the pattern's difficulty level. On the package, there
should be some indicator of difficulty level. Some pattern
companies give an indication of the suitability from beginner
to advanced. Trust this estimation and don't bite off more than
you can chew.
4 Avoid lined garments. Don't try anything that needs to be
lined with another fabric; that's too advanced for the beginner.
Start with simple pieces like A-line skirts or basic tops, and
work on things like this until you are very comfortable with
your skills.
5 Choose the required fabric and supplies. On the back of
the pattern, you'll be instructed as to which fabric will suit the
sewing project. You will note that some patterns suggest a
range of fabric types, as well as warnings for fabrics that are
not suitable. This gives you leeway to purchase fabric that you
like, or that's within budget, etc., as well as forewarning you
that you will may have a bad experience if you try to use
fabric not suited for the pattern in question!
The amount of fabric will also be noted; this is important as it
gives you an indication of the cost if you need to buy it, or can
help you to decide whether you've enough fabric at home
already.
6 Make sure to get all sewing notions. These are the extras
required to complete the pattern, such as zips, buttons,
embellishments, etc. The size, length, and number of such
notions is usually made clear.
7 Be smart about fabric usage. Once you're more comfortable
using patterns, you'll want to find smarter ways to lay out your
pattern and cut the fabric. You can save a lot of money this
way, as patterns can often be more than a little generous.
Don't worry about this in the beginning though, as you will not
have the skills to judge where to cut right away.
Getting Extra Help
1 Learn to use a sewing machine. A sewing machine will be
much easier and can be crucial for sewing some patterns.
2 Learn to hand-stitch. Hand sewing is also a good skill to
have and can make some patterns or parts of patterns easier
to sew, if you can build the skill.
3 Sew button holes. Learning to sew button holes can be a
very useful sewing skill.
4 Make a nice seam. Making a professional looking seam is
also an important sewing skill.
5 Alter your clothes. Learning how to alter patters and existing
clothes will also be necessary to learn over time.
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