Post on 10-Jan-2016
description
How do cultural practices
impact wine aroma and flavor?
How do cultural practices
impact wine aroma and flavor?
Nick DokoozlianE&J Gallo Winery
Nick DokoozlianE&J Gallo Winery
How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard? How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard?
Outline
•Measuring quality and flavor development•Practices influencing flavor development
•Harvest date•Crop load •Late season water status•Trellis •Clonal selection
•Summary
Outline
•Measuring quality and flavor development•Practices influencing flavor development
•Harvest date•Crop load •Late season water status•Trellis •Clonal selection
•Summary
Measuring grape quality Measuring grape quality
Color Mouthfeel Aroma Taste
Flavor = aroma x taste
How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard? How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard?
HarvestDate
Average Brix at harvest(all red varieties in California)
Year1990 1992 1994 1996 1998 2000 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010
Sou
ble
solid
s (B
rix)
21
22
23
24
25
Mean soluble solids of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes
at harvest in California
?
Cabernet Sauvignon
Soluble solids (oBrix)
Fla
vor
inte
nsity
via
sen
sory
0
1
2
3
4
5
VegetativeCharacteristics
FruitCharacteristics
Berry maturity metricsBerry maturity metrics
Berry Sensory
Berry Sensory
Berry sensory trends •Trained tasters can consistently distinguish several different flavor or aroma buckets during ripening
•Significant sensory trendsare apparent during the later stages of ripening (>20 oBrix)
Berry sensory trends •Trained tasters can consistently distinguish several different flavor or aroma buckets during ripening
•Significant sensory trendsare apparent during the later stages of ripening (>20 oBrix)
Sensory “flavor buckets” in grape berries near harvest
Category Sensory buckets
Responsible compounds
Negative
Positive
Veggie
Green fruit Fresh fruit Cooked or jammy fruit
Methoxypyrazine C6 compounds
Glycosylated bound precursors, acid esters and thiols
Ex: norisoprenoids
?
Cabernet Sauvignon
Soluble solids (oBrix)
Fla
vor
inte
nsity
via
sen
sory
0
1
2
3
4
5
VegetativeCharacteristics
FruitCharacteristics
?
Cabernet Sauvignon
Soluble solids (oBrix)
Fla
vor
inte
nsity
via
sen
sory
0
1
2
3
4
5
VegetativeCharacteristics
FruitCharacteristics
?
Cabernet Sauvignon
Soluble solids (oBrix)
Fla
vor
inte
nsity
via
sen
sory
0
1
2
3
4
5
VegetativeCharacteristics
FruitCharacteristics
Sugar-based harvest
?
Cabernet Sauvignon
Soluble solids (oBrix)
Fla
vor
inte
nsity
via
sen
sory
0
1
2
3
4
5
VegetativeCharacteristics
FruitCharacteristics
Sugar-based harvest
Sensory-basedharvest
Soluble solids (oBrix)
22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29
Aro
ma
inte
nsity
via
sen
sory
0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
3.0
Vegetativearoma in wine
Jammy fruitin grapes
Vegetativearoma in grapes
Jammy fruitin wine
Berry to Wine Sensory Berry to Wine Sensory
Linking berry and wine sensory Berry sensory is subjective and not high- throughput
Can we use chemistry to describe our major aromas buckets?
•Vegetable •Green fruit•Fresh fruit•Jammy fruit
Are chemical finger prints for each bucket possible ?
Berry sensory is subjective and not high- throughput
Can we use chemistry to describe our major aromas buckets?
•Vegetable •Green fruit•Fresh fruit•Jammy fruit
Are chemical finger prints for each bucket possible ?
Grape aromas & aroma precursorsGrape aromas & aroma precursors
Methoxypyrazine • Veggie aroma
Free volatile aromas• Alcohols, aldehydes, terpenoids, norisoprenoids
Glucose glycosides • Flavor precursors bound to sugars
Fatty acid esters• Acid esters (fresh fruity notes in all cultivars)
Thiols
• Sulfur based precursors in grapes ( ex. cysteine) - tropical notes in Sauvignon blanc, other cultivars
Sensory “flavor buckets” in grape berries near harvest
Category Sensory buckets
Responsible compounds
Negative
Positive
Veggie
Green fruit Fresh fruit Cooked or jammy fruit
Methoxypyrazine C6 compounds
Glycosylated bound precursors, acid esters and thiols
Ex: norisoprenoids
Jammy fruit aromasJammy fruit aromas
CompoundCompound AromaAroma
Benzyl alcohol (ppb)
Phenethyl alcohol (ppb)
Geraniol (ppb)
B-ionone (ppb)
Terpinene (ppb)
Linalool (ppb)
Eucalyptol (ppb)
B-damasecenone (ppb)
Benzyl alcohol (ppb)
Phenethyl alcohol (ppb)
Geraniol (ppb)
B-ionone (ppb)
Terpinene (ppb)
Linalool (ppb)
Eucalyptol (ppb)
B-damasecenone (ppb)
Red berry
Roses
Citric
Prune
Citrus
Flowery, lavender
Eucalyptus
Rose wood
Red berry
Roses
Citric
Prune
Citrus
Flowery, lavender
Eucalyptus
Rose wood
The Odor Activity Value (OAV)
OAV=
Concentration of target
compound in grape
Known sensory detection
threshold in water
OAV=
Example:
= 40 100 ppt
4000 ppt
Cabernet Sauvignon S - D03
Soluble solids (oBrix)
18 20 22 24 26
Aro
ma
com
poun
d in
dex
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
Sen
sory
rat
ing
(1-5
)
1.5
2.0
2.5
3.0
3.5
4.0
Veggie
Chemistry
Sensory
Cabernet Sauvignon Veggie
Cabernet Sauvignon Veggie
Aro
ma
act
ivity
va
lue
Chemistry
Cabernet Sauvignon S - D03
Soluble solids (oBrix)
18 20 22 24 26
Aro
ma
co
mp
ou
nd
ind
ex
30
40
50
60
70
80
Se
nso
ry r
atin
g (
1-5
)
-1
0
1
2
3Green fruit
Chemistry
Sensory
Cabernet Sauvignon Green fruit
Cabernet Sauvignon Green fruit
Aro
ma
act
ivity
va
lue
Cabernet Sauvignon Jammy fruit
Cabernet Sauvignon Jammy fruit
Cabernet Sauvignon S - D03
Soluble solids (oBrix)
18 20 22 24 26
Aro
ma
com
poun
d in
dex
20
30
40
50
60
70
Sen
sory
rat
ing
(1-5
)
-1
0
1
2
3
4
5
Jammy fruit
Chemistry
Sensory
Aro
ma
act
ivity
va
lue
How do we synchronize berry sugar and flavor accumulation ?
Managing wine flavor & alcohol in the vineyard
Managing wine flavor & alcohol in the vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
Soluble solids (oBrix)
Fla
vor
inte
nsity
via
sen
sory
0
1
2
3
4
5
VegetativeCharacteristics
FruitCharacteristics
Changes in berry sensory over time
Changes in berry sensory over time
2004Cabernet Sauvignon
Soluble solids (oBrix)
Fla
vo
r in
ten
sit
y v
ia s
en
so
ry
0
1
2
3
4
VegetativeCharacteristics
FruitCharacteristics
2004
Rapid sugar accumulation due to low crop loadDelayed flavor development due to environment, ripening rate
Cabernet Sauvignon
Soluble solids (oBrix)
Fla
vo
r in
ten
sit
y v
ia s
en
so
ry
0
1
2
3
4
VegetativeCharacteristics
FruitCharacteristics
Changes in berry sensory over time
Changes in berry sensory over time
2005Slow sugar accumulation due to large crop load
How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard? How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard?
Crop Load or
Vine Balance
Canopy size Fruit yield
Crop Load Yield to pruning weight ratio
integrates vine capacity and yield
Accounts for differences in vineyard design, plant density, vine vigor and site capacity
Vine yieldVine yield
Pruning weightPruning weight Expected ripening rate Expected ripening rate
< 4< 4
5 – 85 – 8
> 10> 10
Too little crop = rapid Too little crop = rapid
Balanced = optimumBalanced = optimum
Too much crop = slowToo much crop = slow
Vine balance and ripening rateVine balance and ripening rate
Time
1 8 15 22 29 6 13 20 27 3 10
Sol
uble
sol
ids
(Brix
)
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
30
32
September October November
Under-cropped vinesYield = 4 tons per hectare
Yield pruning weight ratio = 3
Balance - cropped vinesYield = 15 tons per hectare
Yield pruning weight ratio = 8
Over - cropped vinesYield = 30 tons per hectare
Yield pruning weight ratio = 14
Cabernet Sauvignon
Time
1 8 15 22 29 6 13 20 27 3 10
Sol
uble
sol
ids
(Brix
)
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
30
32
September October November
Under-cropped vinesYield = 4 tons per hectare
Yield pruning weight ratio = 3
Balance - cropped vinesYield = 15 tons per hectare
Yield pruning weight ratio = 8
Over - cropped vinesYield = 30 tons per hectare
Yield pruning weight ratio = 14
Cabernet Sauvignon
Soluble solids (Brix)
20 22 24 26 28
-da
mas
ceno
neO
dor
Act
ivity
Val
ue
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
Balanced Cropped = 8:1
UnderCropped = 3:1
Over Cropped = 14:1
Soluble solids (Brix)
20 22 24 26 28
-da
mas
ceno
neO
dor
Act
ivity
Val
ue
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
TTThreshold
Rat
io o
f dar
k fr
uit t
o gr
een
arom
as
Balanced-cropped8:1
Over-cropped14:1
Under-cropped3:1
Yield:Pruning Weight Ratio
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
Met
hoxy
pyra
zine
Odo
r A
ctiv
ity V
alue
0
5
10
15
20
-da
mas
ceno
neO
dor
Act
ivity
Val
ue
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
900
Undercropped
Overcropped
Su
gar
acc
um
ula
tio
n r
ate
(oB
rix)
Berry ripening (time)Veraison Harvest
High LA:FW(Under cropped)
Low LA:FA(Over cropped)
sugar
time
How important is
to:
How does ripening rate affect berry aroma at maturity ?
How does ripening rate affect berry aroma at maturity ?
•Fruit aroma accumulation? •Green aroma degradation?
Flavor accumulationRate?
How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard? How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard?
Late Season Water Stress
Merlot 5B - Ripperdan
Date
8/22 8/29 9/5 9/12 9/19 9/26 10/3 10/10 10/17 10/24 10/31
Ber
ry w
eigh
t (g
)
1.3
1.4
1.5
1.6
ControlRamp-up
Ramp-up
Begin ramp-up Control
Ramp-up irrigation = 100% ETcControl irrigation = 70% ETc
Begin treatmentat 21 Brix
Vine response to irrigation levels during the final stages of ripening
Cabernet Sauvignon - Lodi
Treatment
Soluble solids at harvest (Brix)
Berry Color
(mg/g)
IBMP (ppt)
Bound aroma
precursors(ppt)
Standard 26.7a 1.2 a 2.1 a 50,560 b
Ramp-up 24.5 b 1.1 a 1.4 a 59,860 a
From: Prichard et al 2005
How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard? How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard?
Trellis Design
and Canopy
Efficiency
45% Exposed LA
35% Exposed LA
75% Exposed LA
65% Exposed LA
Leaf Area / Crop Weight Ratio (m2/kg)
0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9
To
tal S
olu
ble
So
lids
(oB
rix)
18
19
20
21
22
23
VerticalGDCLyre
CHENIN BLANC TRELLIS TRIAL, DAVIS, CA
From Kliewer and Dokoozlian - 2000
IndicesIndices MeasureMeasure
Production efficiencyProduction efficiency
Canopy efficiencyCanopy efficiency
Fruit microclimate Fruit microclimate
Fruit yieldFruit yield
Pruning weightPruning weight
Exposed leaf areaExposed leaf area
Total leaf areaTotal leaf area
Exposed clustersExposed clusters
Total clustersTotal clusters
Back to basics - performance metrics
How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard? How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard?
Clonal Selection
Merlot Clones – 2009 Vintage
All clones adjusted to similar crop loads (~7:1)
following berry set
Summary Summary
• Maturity measures are changing from sugar-based metrics to flavor-based metrics Berry sensory and analytical tools can monitor
berry flavor profiles
• Vine balance (ratio of yield to pruning weight) is critical to fruit ripening rate and flavor development Synchronizing sugar and flavor accumulation
• Greater focus on the impact of other vineyard practices on flavor development is needed
• Maturity measures are changing from sugar-based metrics to flavor-based metrics Berry sensory and analytical tools can monitor
berry flavor profiles
• Vine balance (ratio of yield to pruning weight) is critical to fruit ripening rate and flavor development Synchronizing sugar and flavor accumulation
• Greater focus on the impact of other vineyard practices on flavor development is needed
Acknowledgements Acknowledgements
• David Vasquez, Luis Sanchez, Marin Mendez, Jim O’Donnell and Nona Ebisuda
• Mike Cleary, Beth Wilson and Lee Raley
• Laure David, Jim Kolsky and Lyndsay Noble
• Cyd Yonker and Tom Pugh
• Alan Reynolds and Jim Collins
• David Vasquez, Luis Sanchez, Marin Mendez, Jim O’Donnell and Nona Ebisuda
• Mike Cleary, Beth Wilson and Lee Raley
• Laure David, Jim Kolsky and Lyndsay Noble
• Cyd Yonker and Tom Pugh
• Alan Reynolds and Jim Collins