DS Caribbean 3

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D E S T I N A T I O N S P E C I A L I S T

Caribbean i ncluding the A t lant i c

Part 3Southern Caribbean

Trinidad and Tobago, The ABC Islands: Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao

Western Caribbean and the Coast of Latin AmericaCuba, Mexico, Central America, and South America

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Southern Caribbean 1

Trinidad and Tobago 3

The ABC Islands: 15

Aruba 19

Bonaire 27

C uraçao 35

Western Caribbean and theCoast of Latin America 43

C uba 45

Mexico (Yucatán) 49

C ancún 49

C ozumel 51

C entral America 55

Belize 55

H onduras—The Bay I slands 60

Panama—The San B las Islands 62

South America 65

C olombia 65

C artagena 65

San Andrés I sland 66

Venezuela 67

C aracas 67

Margarita Island 68

G uyana 70

Suriname 73

Index 77

Contents

Contents of Part 1

Introduction 1

The Atlantic 63

Bermuda 65Bahamas 77Turks and

C aicos I slands 95

N orth ern Ca rib be an 1 03

C ayman Islands 105Jamaica 115H aiti 129Dominican Republic 139Puerto Rico 151U . S. Virg in I sland s 167British Virgin Islands 179

Contents of Part 2

Eastern Caribbean—

Th e Le e wa rd I sla nd s 1

Anguilla 3

St-Martin/Sint Maarten 11St-Barthélemy

(St. Barts) 21Saba 29St . Eust at ius (St at ia) 37St. Kitts and Nevis 45Ant ig ua and B arb ud a 57Montserrat 67

Eastern Caribbean—The

Windward Islands 73

G uadeloupe 75

D ominica 87Martinique 99St. Lucia 109Barbados 121St. Vincent and the

G renadines 131G renada 141

The following list includes the major destinations and islands in theTable of Contents, their capitals, and major cities and towns. It

can serve as one way to review when you are done with the text. Toreview, simply see if you can identify where each place name is andwhat you know about it.

Abacos, The Part 1, 83Andros I sland Part 1, 86

Anegada Part 1, 182

Anguilla Part 2, 3

Antigua Part 2, 57

Aruba Part 3, 19

Bahamas, The Part 1, 77

Barbados Part 2, 121

Barbuda Part 2, 57

Bay I slands, The Part 3, 60

Belize Part 3, 55Bequia Part 2, 135

Bermuda Part 1, 65

Berry Islands Part 1, 87

Bimini Islands Part 1, 86

Bonaire Part 3, 27

British Virgin I slands Part 1, 179

C aicos Islands Part 1, 95

C ancún Part 3, 49

C anouan Part 2, 135

C aracas Part 3, 67

C arriacou Part 2, 145

C artagena Part 3, 65

C at Island Part 1, 87

C ayman Islands Part 1, 105

C ozumel Part 3, 51

C uba Part 3, 45

A lphabet i cal

D est i nat i ons

C uraçao Part 3, 35

D ominica Part 2, 87

D ominican Republic (D ominicana) Part 1, 139

Elbow C ay Part 1, 84

Eleuthera Part 1, 84Exumas, The Part 1, 85

Freeport Part 1, 80

G eorgetown, G uyana Part 3, 70

G rand Bahama Island Part 1, 80

G reen Turtle C ay Part 1, 84

G renada Part 2, 141

G renadines Part 2, 131

G uadeloupe Part 2, 75

G uyana Part 3, 70

H aiti Part 1, 129

H amilton Part 1, 69

H avana Part 3, 46

H arbour I sland Part 1, 85

Inagua Part 1, 87

Jamaica Part 1, 115

Jost Van D yke Part 1, 182

Kingston Part 1, 121

La G uaira Part 3, 67

Long I sland Part 1, 87

Margarita Island Part 3, 68

Marie-G alante Part 2, 80

Martiniq ue Part 2, 99

Mayreau Part 2, 136

Montego Bay Part 1, 118

Montserrat Part 2, 67

Mustique Part 2, 135Nassau Part 1, 81

Negril Part 1, 117

Nevis Part 2, 45

New Providence I sland Part 1, 81

O cho Rios Part 1, 119

Palm Island Part 2, 136

Paradise Island Part 1, 81

Paramaribo Part 3, 74

Peter Island Part 1, 182

Petit St. Vincent Part 2, 136

Puerto Plata Part 1, 144Puerto Rico Part 1, 151

Roatán Part 3, 60

Saba Part 2, 29

St-Barthélemy (St. Barts) Part 2, 21

St. C roix Part 1, 171

St. Eustatius (Statia) Part 2, 37

St. John Part 1, 170

St. Kitts Part 2, 45

St. Lucia Part 2, 109St-Martin/Sint Maarten Part 2, 11

St. Thomas Part 1, 169

St. Vincent and the G renadines Part 2, 131

San Andrés I sland Part 3, 66

San Blas I slands, The Part 3, 62

San Juan Part 1, 154

San Salvador Part 1, 87

Santo D omingo Part 1, 141

Statia (See St. Eustatius) Part 2, 37

Suriname Part 3, 73Tobago Part 3, 3

Tortola Part 1, 180

Treasure C ay Part 1, 83

Trinidad Part 3, 3

Turks Islands Part 1, 95

U nion Island Part 2, 136

U .S. Virgin Islands Part 1, 167

Vieques Part 1, 158

Virgin G orda Part 1, 181

Walker’s C ay Part 1, 84

C a r i b b e a n S e a

PuertoRico

Montserrat

Venezuela

Margarita Island

Trinidad

DominicanRepublic

Tobago

Grenada

St. Vincent andthe Grenadines

St. Lucia

Martinique

Guadeloupe

Barbuda

St. Kitts

Antigua

Dominica

Curaçao

Bonaire

U.S. VirginIslands

British VirginIslands

Anguilla

St-Barthélemy

St-Martin/

Sint Maarten

St. Eustatius

S O U T H A M E R I C A

viii•Destination Specialist Caribbean © The Travel Institute

SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN

Souther n Car i bbean

The five destinations in this section are just off the coast of South America.They are also considered part of the Lesser Antilles. The ABC Islands(Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao) begin with a profile and an historical andcultural background of all three islands. Each island is then considered

separately. These islands are

■ Trinidad and Tobago

■ The ABC Islands• Aruba• Bonaire• C uraçao

Port of Spain

TRINIDAD

TOBAGO

San Francique

La Brea

San Fernando

Princes Town

Blanchisseuse

ArimaSangreGrande

Guayaguayare

Redhead

Scarborough

Rio Claro

Gulf of Paria

NORT H ERN

R ANGE

CaroniBirdSanctuary

Chaguaramas Peninsula

Little Tobago

(Ingram’s Island)

Pitch Lake

CENTRAL

C A R I B B E A N S E A

A T L A N T I C

O C E A N

••

• •

••

Asa Wright

Nature Center

Plymouth

Buccoo Reef

Turtle Beach

Kilometers

2 •Destination Specialist Caribbean

Trinidad

Tobago

Capital

City or town

Attraction

Trinidad and Tobago (tu h BAY go ) (T&T) are the southernmostislands in the Caribbean chain. Although they form one country,

each has its own separate and distinct attractions. Trinidad, lying onlyseven miles off the coast of Venezuela, actually owes its geologic her-itage to South America. A mere 10,000 years ago it was part of themainland, until high sea levels separated it.

Forty percent of Trinidad’s population is of Asian Indian descent,wh ich adds a different aspect to the island. H ow ever, Trinidad’ s spirit isdefinitely West Indian in nature, and its culture has had an impactthroughout the C aribbean.

Trinidad is known for its cultural diversity, the musical forms it hasoriginated, and its world-famous Carnival. Its capital, Port of Spain, isan exciting and bustling port city. The island does have beaches, on thenorth and east coasts, but most travelers come for the natural beauty ofits bird sanctuaries, g ardens, and inland mount ains. Tobago , lying 23miles off the northeast coast of Trinidad, is the calmer of the two

islands. Its beautiful, secluded beaches are a tropical paradise.

Historical BackgroundThe two islands that make up Trinidad and Tobago have been unitedadministratively since 1889 and became a joint B ritish C rown co lony in1899, but their histories are quite different. Trinidad’s history involvedthree European nations in an orderly progression. C olumbus first locat-ed the island in 1498, and Spanish settlers populated it a century later.During much of the 18th century, French settlers came to the island,

both from France and from other Caribbean islands that were beingattacked and invaded by one power after another. By the time theBritish came to force, the island had become quite French, thoughunder the weak control of Spain. It was during this French influencethat Carnival began.

In 1797 a B ritish sea expedition sailed into Port of Spain harbor. After

Southern Caribbean: Trinidad and Tobago •3

Tr ini dad and

Tobago Fast FactsLand Area

Trinidad: 1,864 square miles

Tobago: 116 square miles

Population

1.3 million (45,000 of whom are onTobago)

Capitals

Trinidad: Port of Spain

Tobago: Scarborough

Languages

English

Time Zone

UTC -4 or AST (EST + 1). They do not

observe daylight-saving time.

Drive on

Currency

Trinidad and Tobago dollar

Electr ic i ty

110-220 volts, 60 cycles AC; voltage

varies with location.

a series of battles, the outnumbered Spanish surrendered, but notbefore sinking all of their ships. Spain officially admitted defeat andrelinquished any claim to the island five years later. The name of thecapital is one of Spain’s largest legacies.

Plantations dependent on slave labor were created as on most otherislands. The agricultural economy began to decline after emancipationin 1834. Ten years later, however, Trinidadian farmers beganbringing in tens of thousands of Asian Indians and smaller numbers ofC hinese as indentured servants. These workers traded little hope fo r abetter life in their old country for a hard life almost akin to slavery intheir new land. Nonetheless, when their period of servitude was done,most decided to stay. Today their descendants account for almost halfthe population.

Tobago, on the other hand, changed hands many times. Spanish,Dutch, French, English, and pirate forces all took their turns, some-times more than o nce. Even the U nited States go t into t he act, sendingan expeditionary force to capture the island soon after it declaredindependence in 1962 when it became an independent member o f theBritish Commonwealth. The number of forts on the island almostmatches the number of beaches.

In 1899, Trinidad and Tobago were united politically. In 1976 T&Tbecame a republic, staying within the Commonwealth but no longerrecognizing the Queen of England as titular head of state.

Arrival and Location BriefingDirect flights operate daily into Port of Spain from New York andMiami. Almost every major island in the Caribbean has direct flights orgood connections to Trinidad. People going to Tobago will usuallyconnect in Port of Spain, although now there are a few direct flightsfrom t he U nited States. Shuttle flight s run frequently between Trinidadand Tobago, and there is ferry service between the islands.

Trinidad’s airport is 16 miles from Port of Spain, and it can take 30 to60 minutes to reach downtown. Most major hotels are in Port of Spain

and the surrounding area, with a few along the north coast. Manytourists take day excursions from the capital to various parts of theisland. H ow ever, visitors interested strictly in nature travel can findlodg es and guesthouses in mount ainous settings and rain forestsoutside the city.

The great majority of Tobago’s hotels are at its western tip or along thenorthwestern coast. Neither area is far from quaint old Scarborough,

the capital. H ow ever, mo st hotels are even closer to t he airport, sothose flying in can be at their hotel in minutes. A handful of otherhotels are on the scenic eastern end of the island. Beaches in almost allof these areas are idyllic.

Local TransportationPublic transportation on Trinidad is very good and affords a number ofchoices. Public buses, maxi-taxis (minibuses on set routes), and routetaxis all serve the metropolitan Port of Spain area. Buses go out to therest of the island. Public transportation can even be an inexpensivealternative for transfers between the airport and the capital.

Most travelers prefer to take a tour or rent a car for trips outside of thecity. Roads are very good, one reason being that asphalt from Trinidad isused to make roads all over the world, as well as locally. D riving w ithin

the capital, however, is hectic, and most travelers will want to avoid it.

O n Tobago , public transport ation is less frequent, so a car rental ishelpful to see large parts of the island. H ow ever, roads are not q uite asgood as on Trinidad.

Around the Islands: Attractions

Trinidad

Port of Spain is an exciting and bustling city on the wide Gulf ofParia. B ehind it beg in the sloping hills of Trinidad’ s mountains, whicheventually reach 3,000 feet in altitude. The major parts of the city canbe seen on foot. Visitors will not want to missthe capital’s two most famous sights: Queen’sPark Savannah and the Magnificent Seven.

The Savannah covers 200 acres of parklandand sports fields, and embodies the spirit ofthe city.

On one side of the Savannah is the city’s

other gem, the Magnificent Seven. Theseseven 19th-century architectural wonders inthe tropics include buildings patterned afterBalmoral Castle in Scot land, a Venetianpalace, a B aroq ue colonial-period house, aG erman Renaissance castle, a Mo orishresidence, and a gingerbread house.

C o u r t e s y o f G o o d T i m e s P r o d u c t i o n s f o r T r i n i d a d a n d T o b a g o T o u r i s m O ne of the M agnif icent S ev en M ansions

Those planning to go to Trinidad’s nature areas will want to orientthemselves ahead of time by visiting the Emperor Valley Zoo and theBotanical Gardens just north of the Savannah. Walkways throughtropical gardens and displays of native birds and animals offer a taste ofwhat they will see in the country’ s interior. Woodford Square(a park)

and Red House(the Parliament) are other sights to be taken in whilewalking through the city.

H otels with in the city cater as much to the business traveler as to theleisure one. The Trinidad H ilton markets itself as the upside-downhotel: it sits on a hill overlooking the city, with the reception area at thetop of the hill and the hotel descending downward from it. Other hotelsand guesthouses are situated in serene sett ings just out side t he city.

Of the island’s many naturalsights, one of the standouts isthe Asa Wright Nature Centre

and Lodgein the ArimaValley of the Northern Rangemount ains east of the capital.The center is a former planta-tion house in a rain forestand makes an ideal base forhikers, bird watchers, andnature lovers.

At the nature center,orange orchids and yellow tube

flowers attract more than 100 species of birds,including hummingb irds, multicolored species, and the fascinatingnocturnal oilbird, which lives in caves. Indians once ate the flesh ofthese birds and boiled down the carcass to an oil they could use forfire. D ay visitors can take tours through the valley and fo rests with localguides. The opportunity to live among the birds and flowers is an evenmore special experience. The nature center’s lodge has only 24 rooms,which are bo oked heavily by bird-wat ching g roups. R eserving far inadvance is highly recommended.

To the south of Port of Spain, on the way to San Fernando, Trinidad’s

second-largest town, is Caroni Bird Sanctuary. Located in a mangroveswamp, Caroni is home to the scarlet ibis, Trinidad’s national bird. Thebirds stage one of nature’s greatest shows at sundown, when theyswoop in by the hundreds to roost for the evening and seem to set thetreetops aflame. G uided bo at trips are available.

Visitors can explore many other fascinating natural areas on the island.

From C aroni it is a

short trip to Pitch Lake

atLa Brea, near San

Fernando. This is a lake

w here everyone can

w alk on w ater. Actually,

it is not really a body of

w ater. Rather, it is 9 0

acres of oil- and m ud-

created liquid asphalt.

Visitors are able to

w alk on the surface of

this asphalt lake.

Though m any people

try it, do not recom -

m end that your clients

do this on their ow n—

they should follow the

guide. O therw ise, one

w rong step into a hole

can sw allow them up,

never to be seen again.

The acres of lava-likeasphalt w ere form ed

over m illions of years,

perhaps from a m ud

volcano, and are one of

nature’s fascinating

oddities.

Asa W r i g h t N at u r e C e n t r e

C o u r t e s y o f G o o d T i m e s P r o d u c t i o n s f o r T r i n i d a d a n d T o b a g o T o u r i s m

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ Did you know?

The Chaguaramas Peninsula, northwest of the capital, is a populararea for enjoyment. H iking trails in the No rthern Rang e can beaccessed from villages along the north coast. The more isolatedsouthwestern peninsula and southeastern area of the island have few tourists; adventurous visitors might enjoy wandering in this secluded

part of Trinidad.

Tobago

Tobago is lined with beaches and is a tropical paradise of mountainsand rain forests. Like its big brother, it is a nature sanctuary, but it alsofits the vacationer’s idyllic image of wind-blown palm trees by sandybeaches on a d esert isle. In fact, Tobago is often called the “ RobinsonC rusoe island” ; it is said to have been, in part, t he model for D anielD efoe’s novel and has been the site for films such as Swi ss

Fami ly Robinson.

Tobago offers guests everything from secluded coves to classicCaribbean beaches to black-sand shores. The charm ofScarborough, its capital, comes from the feeling that littlehas changed in the last two centuries. Tourists can visit Fort

King George, which stands 400 feet above the tow n andoffers a clear view of Trinidad’s north coast. They can readthe plaque describing some of the 31 times the islandchanged hands.

Both Scarborough and Plymouth, Tobago ’s second -largest city, are on the western part o f the island, alongthe south and north coasts respectively. Buccoo Reef,

Tobago’s natural aquarium, and Turtle Beach will delight thebeachcombing naturalist.

The island of Little Tobago, also known as Ingram’s Island, lies offthe island’s eastern end. This is great scuba-diving and bird-watchingterritory. Little Tobago is one of the Caribbean’s most importantseabird sanctuaries. The red-billed tropicbirds are a spectacular sightfrom October to June.

What’s Special about Trinidadand Tobago?The desert-isle beaches of Tobago, the Carnival festivities inTrinidad, and the bird life and natural beauty of both islands are keyattributes that stand out in T&T. Trinidad’s singular culture,

F o r t K i n g G e o r g e

C o u r t e s y o f G o o d T i m e s P r o d u c t i o n s f o r T r i n i d a d a n d T o b a g o T o u r i s m

cosmopolitan population and heritage, and musical root s are differentfrom any other island.

Like its neighbors the ABC Islands to the west, T&T’s proximity to theVenezuelan coast has meant econo mic advantages from o il and o therindustries. In addition, various commercial enterprises such as naturalgas have attracted fo reign investment and made T&T one of t he moreprosperous countries in the Caribbean. Trinidad is a hybrid ofcommercial development on the one hand and rain forests and natureareas on the other. For many years tourism played a secondary role toother economic sectors.

The primary reason to visit Tobago is its beaches and natural beauty.H ow ever, despite the fact that Trinidad is roughly 16 times larger inland area than Tobago and has 28 times the population, Tobago cur-rently has more hotel rooms than Trinidad.

Ecotravel is one niche market that will bring many visitors to Trinidad. Inaddition to the nature areas mentioned above, there are numerous otherbird sanctuaries and wild fowl trusts seeking to preserve different species.One look at pictures of the multicolored panoply of species that live onthe island will mot ivate any b ird lover to visit. Many o f Trinidad’ s outly-ing areas are ready for the meandering adventurer. Residents, who seefew outsiders, are exceedingly welcoming. The island is looking into fur-ther development of a system of national parks, new ecolodges and tours,and careful management of current environmental resources.

The other facets that make Trinidad special are its culture and special

events, which are described later.

Island CultureEvery island in the C aribbean is an amalgam of cultures, sometimesmore so than tourists realize. Many African cultures were forciblythrown together on these islands, along with the various Europeangroups who reigned, and influxes from China and the Middle East.Nowhere is the rich combination of cultures more apparent, though,than on Trinidad. More than 40 percent of Trinidadians are of Asian

Indian descent, just less than 40 percent are of African descent, 18percent are of mixed ancestry, and fractions of a percent are ofEuropean, Chinese, or Middle Eastern descent. Tobago’s population,on the other hand, is mostly of African ancestry.

Numerous denominations of C hristian churches share the religiousspot light with H indu temples and a few Muslim mo sques. E nglish is

the dominant language, but Spanish and French can also be heard incertain areas.

Trinidadian culture particularly thrives on music. The island’s rhythmspervade all of the Caribbean, much of North America, and indeed therest of the world. Calypso began in Trinidad more than 200 years ago;it is a mix of ethnic elements, the strongest being African song and sto-rytelling. Calypso’s satire influences social and political thought asmuch as its music and lyrics delight listeners.

Steel-drum (or steel-pan) music is another pervasive musical form. Itbegan in Trinidad but is now heard on every Caribbean island. Thesteel drum is one of the few musical instruments invented in the20th century. In the first half of the 20th century, drums of all kindswere used. The glut of oil drums left on the island after World WarII inspired musicians to see if they could tune the lids of thesedrums to use for music. They found they could fashion every noteon the scale in almost every range, and thus a new genre of instru-ments was born. The haunting melodies of the steel band are heardeverywhere in the Caribbean, and major competitions are held annu-ally on Trinidad.

O ther musical forms had t heir origins or fo und new expression o nthe island. Chutney, an Asian Indian variation of calypso, is popular.Parang , a Spanish-based rhythm broug ht over from Venezuela, isusually played at Christmas. Modern rock and rap have been meldedwith indigenous sounds to create new strains in this music-lovingnation. Trinidad is also credited with inventing the limbo; and of

course no Caribbean party that includes tourists can be withoutthis dance.

T&T boasts traditional C aribbean fare, with the add ition o f AsianIndian rotis and curries, Venezuelan pastel les, and more than the usualchoice of Middle Eastern and Chinese offerings. Angostura bitters, anisland product known throughout the world, is found in many drinks.

T&T citizens have also figured prominently in literary circles. Amongits many authors is the famous historian and former prime minister ofthe count ry, D r. E ric Williams. H ow ever, the most w ell know n by far is

the novelist-philosopher-travel writer V. S. Naipal; travel professionalsand travelers will find his books of interest. Some of his novels, such asThe H ouse for M r. Bi swas, describe past life in Trinidad, but his travelwriting and o ther wo rks cover locales all over the w orld.

Celebrations and Special EventsT&T has numerous special events throughout the year, especially musicfestivals featuring calypso and steel-drum competitions. Tobago hasyachting regat tas and even a g oat - and crab-racing fête after Easter.

It is Trinidad’s Carnival, or Masas it is called locally, that is the mostmemorable. A tradition that began in the late 1700s with the Frenchand Spanish Catholics, Carnival was embraced by other Europeans, freeblacks, and successive waves of newcomers to the island. For a numberof decades, Carnival was suppressed under British rule and looked uponas a dark undertaking. But Mas won out to become one of the greatfestivals of the world, its only rivals being Carnival in Rio and Veniceand Mardi Gras in New Orleans. Many feel that the creativity of thecostumes, the variety of musical competitions, and the ease with whichvisitors can participate make Mas the greatest Carnival of them all.

Steel-drum music is one of the essential elements of Carnival. Musicalevents and competitions begin soon after the New Year. H ow ever, thetwo most spectacular celebrations take place on the Monday andTuesday before Ash Wednesday. At 2 A.M. on Monday, “ early mas,”also known as j ’ouver t (pronounced “ jouvay” ), begins when the firstrevelers go out into the streets.

During the days leading up to Carnival and in the last two days,revelers will want to visit the following:

1. Panyards, w here the larger steel bands rehearse. D rinks and snacks

are available.

2. C alypso tents, featuring night ly show s with up to 20 singers.

3. Mas camps, the headq uarters of parading bands. Locals and visitorsalike are invited to sign up as part of their favorite band. The campswill show visitors what costumes are available (the Tourist Office cantell you how a client can sign up before arrival).

4. Numerous other musical fêtes.

Among the many major events during the last few days are Kings andQueens of Bands, Calypso Preliminaries and Finals, the Parade ofBands, and the Panorama Finals, a competition among more than 100steel bands. Carnival Tuesday ends with the Las Lap, the wind-down ofCarnival. Anyone who attends this event is bound to be filled with thespirit and culture of the country.

Carnival is a once-in-

a-lifetim e event and

should be planned for

accordingly w ith M as

(M asquerade).C ostum e-outfitters in

Port of Spain can put

together som ething

suitable ahead of tim e.

H ow ever, it w ill not rival

the costum es in the

parades—costum es that

go far beyond w ords

such as “elaborate,”

“ostentatious,”and

“w ildly creative.”The

only w ay to see foryourself is to look at

brochure pictures or a

video on Trinidad’s

C arnival.

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ Did you know?

Dining and EntertainmentIn keeping with T&T’s cultural amalgam, the island’s gastronomy alsoshows great variety. That variety is seen not in the numbers of tourist-oriented restaurants but in the mixture of tastes—Creole, I ndian,C hinese, French, M iddle Eastern—that can be found all over Trinidad.

At the same time, the island is a “ fast-food” heaven—not of hamburgerchains but of snack stands and stalls. H ungry visitors will find Indianand Chinese delicacies; Middle Eastern fried dough; and potatoes,lentils, and vegetables that can be dipped into chutney, marmalades,and spicy sauces. Because Trinidad’s tourist-to-local ratio is much lowerthan on other islands, restaurants have to satisfy regulars, af fecting bo thprice and quality positively.

At this point, it won’t be any surprise to say that T&T’s nightlife isexcellent. The musical styles mentioned above are found in nightspots,

local clubs, pubs, and hotel venues year-round. Musical contests andcompetitions are held during Carnival and at other times. Mas CampPub has been one of Port of Spain’s most comfortable nightspotsfor years.

On Tobago, nightlife centers more around the hotels, but spontaneousblock parties and local bars are lively too. The same is true withdining—vacationers often eat at hot el restaurants, b ut t here is also ago od selection o f independent restaurants.

Cruise CallT&T is not yet one of the major cruise destinations in the Caribbean.This is partly because of geographical considerations—the island is thefarthest south on the crescent of Windward Islands. In 1998 a new cruise port and facilities were completed; that same year cruise arrivalsincreased by 20 percent, a situation that is expected to continue.Longer cruises and more deluxe ships often call at Trinidad, whileTobago gets small ships and windjammers.

Selling Trinidad and TobagoTobago is for b eachcombers and nature lovers. Even though Tobag owould appeal to many American beach-vacationers, it has beenneglected for logistical reasons—tourists often opt for islands they canreach more quickly rather than fly down to Trinidad and then connectto Tobago. The fact that in the 1960s and 1970s Trinidad put itseconomic resources into sectors other than tourism (very successfully at

times) did not help Tobago’s tourist numbers. Today, a coupleof new direct flights from the East Coast can take visitors to thisbeautiful island very conveniently. All that remains is that they learnabout Tobago .

Trinidad, on the other hand, is a classic niche market destination. Likefew other places in the Caribbean, Trinidad will satisfy those who enjoyculture, nature, o r C arnival. H ow ever, remember that large parts ofTrinidad (some of which visitors will pass through) are industrial andcommercial and not very pretty.

A ten-day dream trip to T&T would begin the Thursday beforeCarnival, with two or three days of visits to the rain forests and naturereserves, Sunday through Wednesday at Carnival, and three days torelax on Tobago. You could also plan trips for other times of the year,with careful substitution o f entertainment and other musical events forCarnival (there is really no substitute for Carnival, but T&T’s musicand culture will still enthrall).

Island SecretBesides the multicolored birds in rain forests, T&T boasts numerousother fauna, such as manatees, caimans (similar to alligators), howlerand weeping capuchin monkeys, four-eyed fish, and golden tree frogs.Perhaps the most spectacular creatures are the 1,000-pound, six-foot-long leatherback turtles that come to both islands to lay their eggs.Their nesting season lasts from March t hrough September, tho ugh

April to July is optimum.

D uring any o ne season these gent le giants may nest up to six times, atintervals of 9 to 11 days, laying more than 700 eggs. The hatchlingstake anywhere from 55 to 70 days to develop, at which point they rushto the water. To view the nesting, visitors must obtain a $5 permit attwo major areas along the northeast coast of Trinidad; they then pay asmall fee to guides who escort them and ensure that there is minimaldisturbance and disruption to the turtles. Beaches in Tobago are notpatrolled, but hotel guards watch for the turtles so that visitors can bealerted and kept at a safe distance.

Key Points about Trinidad and Tobago• P o rt of Spain

• C arnival

• C alypso and steel-drum (pan) music

• Excellent nature areas

• Scarborough and Plymouth

• Beaches of Tobago

For More InformationTourism and Ind ustrial D evelopment C ompany o f Trinidad andTobago Limited (TID C O ) in Trinidad10–14 Philipps Street, Tourism D ivision, 3rd Floo r

Port of Spain, TrinidadPhone: 800-595-4TNT (800-595-4868) or 868-623-1932Fax: 868-623-3848E-mail: tourism-info@tidco.co .ttWeb site: www.visittnt.com

My Contact Information

ARUBACURAÇAO

BONAIRE

Oranjestad

Willemstad

Kralendijk

Kilometers

Aruba, Curaçao, Bonaire

Capital

City or town

Attraction

THE ABC ISLANDS

The Dutch islands of Aruba (uh ROO bah ), Bonaire (BOH nair ),and Curaçao (koo rah SAH oh ) (ABC) lie just 30 to 50 miles off

Venezuela’s northern coast, quite separated from the o ther islanddestinations we have explored. They are also a distance from otherDutch islands of St. Maarten, Saba, and St. Eustatius. The ABC Islandsbear inspection both as a group and as separate destinations; each isdistinctly different.

Aruba is the ultimate beach destination, an island that competeshead-to-head with J amaica, the Bahamas, the U .S. Virgin I slands, andother sun-and-fun spots hundreds of miles closer to North America butnot that much more accessible. It has its own seven-mile beach, 11casinos, and plenty of resort-style nightlife.

Bonaire receives less than one-tenth the number of American touristsAruba does, even though it is larger. H ow ever, about half of the visitorscome to the island for the diving, which ranks among the best in theCaribbean. Although Bonaire is beginning to see development in the

form of villas and condominiums, it is still quiet and peaceful, withsmall, beautiful beaches, nature reserves, and underwater wonderlands.

Curaçao has its share of beaches—38 of them, in fact—thoughsome are man-made and none co mpares with the mag nificentbeaches in Aruba. And it too has many dazzling d ive locations,but they do no t q uite equal those of Bo naire. I t is Curaçao’shistory, culture, architecture, and people that make it the hubof these three islands. Willemstad, the capital, is perhaps themost interesting city for sightseeing in t he C aribbean.

Winds blow over these low-lying islands, which are not ableto trap cloud moisture as do the lush mountainousWindward Islands. Consequently, most of the landscape ofthe ABC Islands is a fascinating, desert-like world of boul-ders, caves, cacti, and sand dunes reminiscent of theAmerican Southwest. And then there are the distinctive divi-divitrees. The stunted, windblown shapes of these trees, with their

Southern Caribbean: The ABC Islands •15

The ABC

I slands

A w i n d sw e p t d i v i - d i v i t r e e

C o u r t e s y o f Ar u b a T o u r i s m Au t h o r i t y

branches all aimed in one horizontal direction, give a hint of the strongnature of the trade winds on these islands. These winds help moderatethe strong southern sun and keep humidity levels dow n, b ut t heirstrength and constancy can also make the beaches less enjoyable duringthe winter months. H ow ever, the ABC Islands are well out of the

hurricane belt and have not seen a hurricane in recent memory.

Historical BackgroundThe ABC Islands were first explored and colonized by the Spanish,who made them part o f their empire. H ow ever, Spain left o nly a smallforce to protect the islands, and in 1634 the D utch captured them withlittle trouble. France and England repeatedly attempted to invade theislands, with only minor success for short periods of time. (The lastBritish invasion took place on New Year’s Eve of 1807, when theycaught everyone partying and were able to gain control for eight

years.) In the early 1800s, the islands finally came under the control ofthe N etherlands.

Because of their location just off the coast of South America, the islandswere important trade centers. They first blossomed with the wealthbrought in by pirates who plundered the coastal waters of the southernC aribbean. C uraçao’s port became and has remained a center of interna-tional trade. The most important commercial organization w as theD utch West I ndies Trading C ompany, w hich also t raded in slaves. TheD utch became leaders in the international slave trade, no t so much forthemselves but as middlemen, shipping slaves thro ugho ut the Americas.

The islands’ population is multicultural, thanks to the many émigrésthey have welcomed to their shores. Jews, especially, found refuge hereduring the Inquisition in Spain and following persecution in Portugaland other countries.

In 1824 gold was discovered in Aruba, and the mines were worked foralmost a century. The establishment of oil refineries in Aruba andCuraçao in the early 1900s helped bring a new prosperity unknown inmuch of the Caribbean. Money, construction, and people flowed intothe islands for 70 years, until recession and the oil glut of the latter part

of the 20th century cut production and employment severely. Theislands still remain strong in all types of t rade, but they now look morestrongly to tourism and other sources for revenue.

Bonaire and Curaçao remain an integral part of the NetherlandsAntilles, along w ith the three D utch islands to the nort h. I n 1986Aruba voted for more autonomy and became a separate entity within

the Kingdom of t he Netherlands. O fficially, t he arrangement is calledStat us A par te.

Island CultureThe ABC Islands are one of the leading melting pot areas in theC aribbean. D utch architecture, mixed with Spanish and West I ndiesheritage, creates the charm found in all three island capitals and in thecount ryside. The islands’ African, Ind onesian, Jewish, D utch, andother European cultures are also heavily influenced by the huge Latincontinent just off their southern shores. Music is infused with salsaand meringue, beats we have barely mentioned since leaving theSpanish islands of t he G reater Antilles.

The islands’ cultural blend is evident in the variety of cuisines available(see the “ D ining and Entertainment” sections for each island) and in

their languages. In contrast to many Caribbean islands, the local cuisineis nearly the same as that offered to visitors.

The Netherlands has kept strong control of island affairs; the result isthat the D utch language is more dominant than o n ot her D utch islandsfarther north. Most multicultural residents of Curaçao are fluent inDutch, Papiamentu (the local mixed dialect), English, and Spanish.Papiamentu (often spelled Papiamento) is more of a blend and yetmore of a distinct language than any dialect in the Caribbean. It is atrue mix of D utch, E nglish, Spanish, P ort uguese, and Africanlanguages, with influences from Amerindian dialects as well. Apparently,

Papiamentu began amo ng European slave merchants and Africans onthe coast of Africa, was brought to the New World, and was thenadopted by P ortuguese Jews who w anted to communicate with theirservants. P apiamentu’s roo ts are strongest in C uraçao, but it is spokenin Aruba and Bo naire with slight ly different accents.

Curaçao liqueur is known the world over. It comes in a number ofdifferent tastes and colors, with orange Curaçao being the classic.Amstel beer is also distilled here with the pure water from one of theworld’s largest desalinization plants. The beer is shipped all over theC aribbean. Aruba’ s desalinization plant supplies the water that go es

into Grolsch beer and other local brews.

Oranjestad

De Palm Island

ArikokNational Park

Haystack Hill

NaturalBridge

PalmBeach

EagleBeach

San Nicolas

Spanish Lagoon

Kilometers•

Capital

City or town

Attraction

D ry, hot, sunny beaches of sand extend along seven miles of beachon the island’s southwestern coast. G ambling casinos are in almost

every resort. Aruba offers plenty of water sports and beach activitiesduring the day and beach barbecues, limbo parties, and steel-drummusic at night. Aruba is honeymoons and island tunes, but it has astark interior landscape reminiscent of an Arizona desert. Lying just offthe northern coast of South America, Aruba compares well with theleading beach-vacation islands in the Caribbean.

Arrival and Location BriefingMany scheduled nonstop flights arrive from Miami, New York, andother cities; weekly charters also service Aruba. This accessibility and itsstate-of-the-art tourist facilities are major reasons that it can competefavorably with resort islands much closer to t he U nited States.

Almost all the hotels are along Seven Mile Beach, on the west side ofthe island, not far from Oranjestad. Location choice is not critical,unless it is to get a mid-beach position in order to be convenient to thelargest number o f restaurants and entertainment spots at o ther hot els.

The airport is just eight minutes east of Oranjestad. Visitors can see theeastern side of the island and the interior on tours or by renting a carfor a day.

Local TransportationMost clients will be arriving on packages and charters with transfersincluded. Car rentals for an entire stay hardly seem necessary.Vacationers will spend most of their time along the seven-mile strip andcan either take a tour or rent a car by the day for trips on the island.

Buses run frequently from the hot els to the capital, including a specialShopping Tour Bus.

Around the Island: AttractionsShopping is the big attraction in Oranjestad (o RAH N dja staht ),Aruba’s capital. The city has a decidedly Caribbean flavor, but its

Aruba Fast FactsLand Area

69 square miles

Population

94,000

Capital

Oranjestad

LanguagesDutch, Papiamentu, English, Spanish

Time Zone

UTC -4 or AST (EST + 1). It does not

Drive on

Currency

Aruba florin

Electr ic i ty

110 volts, 60 cycles AC, in hotels same

as U.S.

architecture is part Spanish, part D utch.New shopping co mplexes, airy open gal-leries, and old markets offer local crafts,Aruban art, and imported goods. Visitorswill admire the t all, multicolored houses

and carved w ood en doors of the mainstreet. They will also want to take aphoto of the colorful boats at pic-turesque Schooner Harbour.

Nearby Harbourtown Market is afestive shopping, dining, and entertain-ment mall. One block farther are thetropical gardens of b eautifulWilhelmina Park, built for theD utch queen who ruled from 1890

to 1948. Those so inclined can visitAruba’s Historical Museum in Fort Zoutman, the fas-

cinating Numismatic Museum, or the Aruba Archeology Museum.

H ow ever, it is out in the cunucu (or countryside) that the wild,untamed beauty of the island is to be found. Just east of the airport,tourists can climb the 580 steps to the top of Haystack Hill for a view of the capital. In the arid interior are impressive boulders the size ofbuildings, some o f w hich have Amerindian draw ings on them. Theorigins of these several-thousand-ton rocks are puzzling to scientists.Arikok National Park encompasses much o f this natural habitat forplants and animals, including species found only on Aruba. To the eastare Indian caves that can be explored and the 100-foot-long Natural

Bridge, carved into the coastal rocks by eons of pounding surf.

O n the way from O ranjestad to San Nicolas, the island’s oldest village,visitors pass by the ruins of an old gold mine and Spanish Lagoon,

where pirates hid their ships.

Most vacationers will spend a day or so visiting the sights mentionedabove and will visit the capital a couple of times. Otherwise, the focus ison Seven Mile Beachon the west coast where 25 hotels are lined upone after another. I t is divided into tw o main sections, one at Palm

Beach and the other at Eagle Beach. Of the many beaches, these twoare closest to most hotels. Ten hotels are high-rises, the largest of whichhas 600 rooms. Others are generally smaller low-rises, although the LaCabana All-Suite Resort and Casino, with 800 suites, is the largest onthe island. The Aruba Sonesta Beach Resort is located in the capital.Marriott, Wyndham, Radisson, H oliday Inn, and H yatt Regency areamong the well-known names of the many hotels lining the beach.

C o u r t e s y o f A r u b a T o u

r i s m A u t h o r i t y

O ra n j e s ta d, ca p i ta l o

f A r u ba

What’s Special about Aruba?Aruba’s legendary beaches fulfill the Caribbean ideal of white sand andturquoise water. It is possible to hike for two hours along Seven MileBeach without ever leaving the sand. Covered bars and ice creamstands at every resort offer plenty of opportunities for refreshment. Atnight, visitors can stroll Seven Mile Beach and go hotel-hopping fordinner, dancing, gambling, and late-night shows. This long strandwith its 25 hotels is one of the Caribbean’s most famous resort areas.But there are numerous other, quieter beach choices for those whowant to get away from their fellow tourists and explore the rest of thelong southern coast.

The rugged interior in some ways resembles the American Southwest;thus it provides an unusual contrast to the pristine beaches of the coast.Its desert-like landscape features boulders, cacti, and dry scrub brush.The windswept divi-divi trees are a symbol of the island that will

remain in vacationers’ minds forever. Moderating trade winds make thesun feel less hot. Aruba has a far southern latitude, so visitors should bevery careful to avoid the midday sun.

Celebrations and Special EventsCarnival is the big special event in Aruba; it is held from January tothe beginning of the Lenten season. Competitions for singersand musicians culminate in the masq uerade along O ranjestad’ swaterfront.

Queen’s Day is celebrated on April 30 with sporting events.The Windsurfing Festival is held in June. Aruba’s constantwinds make this event a challenge for the windsurfers whocome from all over the Americas.

Anyone can take part in the Bonbini Festival, held everyTuesday at Fort Zoutman. The party offers arts and crafts,local food and beverages, folkloric music and dance, and itdraws many visitors. A similar event is One Cool Summer.

It takes place every Wednesday evening (from May through

Octob er) on the festival grounds between the H yatt andAllegro Resorts. Local restaurants offer samples of their cuisine, islandcrafts are displayed, and live music is played.

C ar n i v al

C o u r t e

T o u r i s

o r i t y

Dining and EntertainmentThe island’s large tourism infrastructure includes a multitude of diningoptions, many of t hem in the resorts. There are lots of I talian restau-rants, seafood and steak places, and other establishment that will suitthe Americanized palate.

If tourists eat only in the hotels, they will be missing out on a wealth ofexperiences, both culinary and atmospheric. Festive decor, antique fur-nishings, 19th-century houses, and interiors reminiscent of farmhousesand sunken ships are just some of t he backdrops. D utch specialties canbe found in the independent establishments and D utch cafés. Arubancuisine has its own special dishes, including kesha yena (a whole Edamcheese filled with meat or fish and baked) and pan bati (a deliciousbeaten bread resembling a pancake).

Chinese, French, and Japanese restaurants, two Argentinean steak hous-

es, a G erman “ villa,” an Ind onesian restaurant serving r i jstt afel, and adozen international-style establishments give visitors a tasty selection.One of the island’s best restaurants is run by a renowned Belgian chef.All major fast-food franchises are also represented. For clients who wantto sample excellent cuisine outside of their hotels and to know theircosts in advance, a commissionable dine-around plan can be arrangedthrough the Aruba Gastronomic Association.

For many resort -partiers, theme night s at the various hotel bars, night -clubs, and restaurants are the highlights of entertainment. Each hotelpicks a different day of the week to have its party; with 28 hotels on

the island, there are an average of four parties a night from which tochoose. O fferings include tropical nights, beach barbecues, interna-tional entertainers, fashion shows, local dance groups, limbo and firedances, and steel bands. P artiers can also enjoy t he weekly Bo nbiniFestival and O ne C oo l Summer events (see “ C elebrations and SpecialEvents” earlier).

With 11 casinos (including t he H yatt R egency Aruba R esort andCasino and the Moorish Alhambra Casino in the Alhambra Bazaar),Aruba is popular for gambling.

Cruise CallAruba’s cruise dock is a 5- to 10-minute walk from downtownOranjestad’s shops and cafés. From there, visitors must decide whetherto head east to explore the island’s unique desert-like interior, ruggednorthern coast, and rocks and caves; or to head west to the beach-resort -casino strip for wat er sports and relaxation. I f clients want t o

A unique Bonbini “Bar

Hopper” Tour visits

Aruba’s favorite local

gathering places on

Tuesdays and

Thursdays aboard a

w ooden 1947 Ford bus.

This colorful, hand-

painted vehicle offersopen-air transportation.

O ther tours, such as the

Kukoo Kunuku and a

bus that has passen-

gers greet one another

w ith noisem akers, keep

the party going on other

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ Did you know?

explore, they can rent a car and head east or hire a taxi by the hour. Ifthey prefer to go west to the beaches and resorts, a taxi ride will getthem there in minutes.

Selling ArubaMost North American clients who go to Aruba have already visitedother places in the Caribbean; however, first-timers will also findAruba an appealing destination. Visitors can take nonsto p scheduledflights and charters from a number of eastern and midwestern cities,and H ouston; t he trip takes about four hours from N ew York and tw oand a half hours from Miami. Transfers to hotels are swift, and clientscan be out on the beach by the afternoon.

These facts help make Aruba a perfect choice for honeymooners as wellas those seeking somewhere a little different from the closer islands, but

who breathe more easily knowing there are familiar major ho tel andfast-food chains around. Of course, any beach-resorter who has visitedone of the other Caribbean islands is also a prime candidate for Aruba.

There are many opportunities for great diving and other sports, makingAruba a great candidate for couples with varied interests.

Island SecretBesides water sports, Aruba features a number of other action-packedactivities. Off-road tours in four-wheel-drive vehicles and all-terrain

Aruba’s

Natura l

Bridge

C o u r t e s y

A r u b a

T o u r i s m

A u t h o r i t y

vehicles (ATVs) are a way to see the interior of the island, where dirtroads take over. G roup to urs, d uring which each person has his or herown ATV, visit the splashing Natural Pool and the 100-foot-longNatural Bridge. On a kayak adventure, first-time kayakers can visitcoastal mangroves and the Spanish Lagoon, then lunch on De Palm

Island; this private island, just five minutes away by ferry, has acomplete entertainment facility. Four different ranches offer horseback-riding through Aruba’s “ wild west” —comprised of sand dunes, thecunucu, and Arikok National Park.

Key Points about Aruba• Seven Mile Beach (Palm and Eagle Beaches)

• Top resorts, restaurants, nightlife and casinos, w ater sports

• Rugged interior reminiscent of the U .S. Southwest

For More Information

Aruba Tourism Autho rity1000 H arbor B oulevardWeehawken, NJ 07087Phone: 800-TO -ARU BA (800-862-7822) or 201-330-0800Fax: 201-330-8757E-mail: ata.aruba@toaruba.comWeb site: www.aruba.com

Aruba Tourism Authority has its ow n Aruba C ertified E xpert Pro gram(ACE), which includes study material covering all aspects of the island.The program receives four C EU credits from The Travel Institute, andthe associated familiarizat ion trip receives three C EU credits.

BONAIRE

KralendijkKleinBonaire

Pink Beach SaltPans

FlamingoSanctuary

Rincon

WashingtonSlagbaai

National Park

Willemstoren

Barcadera

PlayaNeme

Trans-WorldRadio Sorobon

LacBay

Mount Brandaris

SeroeLargu

Kilometers

Bonaire

Capital

City or town

Attraction

Asking where the good dive sites are in Bonaire is like asking whichdishes are good at a five-star restaurant. Fifty percent of the visitors to

Bonaire come for the diving, quite a high number when you consider thatpeople also come for the beautiful, uncrowded beaches, for the D utch-Caribbean atmosphere of the quietest of the ABC Islands, or simply toaccompany a partner who dives. Bonaire vies for top honors with only oneor two other Caribbean locations, such as the Cayman Islands, for thequality of its diving.

Bo naire is the most easterly of the ABC Islands. It s coral reefs and

underwater life are its most famous attributes, but the island’s undevel-oped interior, flamingo habitats, and rich w ildlife also att ract an increas-ing number of nature lovers. Both the coastal waters and the inlandenvironment remain relatively pristine—rules are enforced to keep themthat way.

Arrival and Location BriefingA few nonstop flights a week arrive from Miami and Montego Bay.Check also for direct flights from Newark. Otherwise, both of Bonaire’s

neighbo rs, C uraçao and Aruba, have frequent nonstop flights from theU nited States (many flights stop in bo th Aruba and C uraçao; becauseCuraçao is closer to Bonaire, it is the better choice). From either ofthese islands, visitors can take short-hop connections to Bonaire.

The airport is close to Kralendijk, and transfers to most hotels are quickand reasonably priced. H otels are located around the capital, as areheadquarters for most d ive operations. Therefore, location is not t hatcritical because hotels, dive sites, the airport, and the capital are all inthe same general area on the w estern part of the island.

Local TransportationThose spending most of their time diving should consider a rental carfor easy access to Bonaire’s many dive sites. For others who want to seethe bird life, meander along the coast, or explore the National Park, acar is ideal. H alf-day and full-day tours also visit all of these areas. Busroutes cover an area ranging from the airport, through Kralendijk, and

Southern Caribbean: Bonaire •27

Bonaire Fast FactsLand Area

112 square miles

Population

15,000

Capital

Kralendijk

Time Zone

Drive on

Currency

Netherlands Antilles florin or guilder

Electr ic i ty

127 or 220 volts, 50 cycles AC. Hotels

have U.S. voltage or adapters.

up to the town of Rincon, and meet the needs of relaxed visitors ordivers on their “ day off.”

Around the Island: AttractionsIn the case of Bonaire Marine Park, “ around the island” means justthat because the park encircles the entire coastline of the island and thesmaller island of Klein Bonaire. See “ What ’s Special about B onaire?”for further information on the park.

Bonaire’s capital, Kralendijk (KRAW lehn dike ), is a small, tidy cityonly five minutes from the airport. Stucco buildings are painted yellow,blue, or lime green, creating a pretty pastel scene. A main street ofshops, boutiques, and restaurants leads to a narrow waterfront and theFish Market, an elegant w hite structure built like a G reek temple.H ere visitors can see some of Bonaire’s strang e and brilliant ly colored

fish close up.

Kralendijk is small, but it is the hub of the island’s activities. Many ofthe great dive sites lie to the west in the gentle indentation that is barelya bay. From here, one can go south toward Pink Beach, the Salt Pans,

and the Flamingo Sanctuary, or north toward Washington SlagbaaiNational Park, the town of Rincon, and mo re flamingos.

Just south of Kralendijk is one of the island’s most recognizable, ifincongruous, landmarks, the 500-foot antenna tower of Trans-World

Radio. Transmitting at 810,000 watts, Trans-World is one of the

Western H emisphere’s most powerful medium-wave radio stat ions. I tbroad casts C hristian radio to the Americas and as far as Eastern Europeand the Middle East.

Three miles south are the Cargill Salt Pans, a 19th-century industrytha t has been revived. H uge, snow-like hills of salt pro vide eerie scenes,especially when juxtaposed with the slave huts dating from the 18thcentury. The huts have been restored to show the difficult lives of thosewho worked the flats 200 years ago.

At the south shore is Willemstoren, Bonaire’s first lighthouse, which

was built in 1837 and is still in use. Along the eastern side of thesouth coast, waves crash mightily against the rocks, and unusual piecesof driftwood are found on the beach. The road goes through desertterrain with organ-pipe cactus, and the spiny stumps of saltwater man-grove trees rise like goblins from the marsh. Bonaire is one of the few places in the w orld where pink flamingos nest. The FlamingoSanctuary is home to 15,000 of them; from January to June, thebirds tend their young.

A tour through the northern two-thirds of the island takes visitors intothe heart of natural wo nders. A stone staircase, know n as 1,000 Steps

(it’s actually 67), is carved right out of a cliff and leads to a great placefor snorkeling or diving. Another set of steps farther on leads downinto Barcaderacave, with its eerie tunnel and stalactites.

A road from Kralendijk north into the interior leads to Rincon, theoriginal Spanish settlement and the cultural heart o f B onaire. Thetown’s history is both interesting and depressing, as it was a townwhere slave families once lived. A road leads to Seroe Largu, the high-est spot in the middle of the island, with views of Rincon and therugged eastern coast.

Washington Slagbaai National Park, a model of conservation, coversa good part of the northern section of Bonaire. Its 13,500 acres wereonce plantation land. Today this tropical desert terrain is a wildernesssanctuary whose 22 miles of dirt roads are well marked but are bestdriven by four-wheel drive. Flamingos, exotic parakeets, and 130 otherspecies of colorful birds inhabit the park, as do wild goats, straydonkeys, lizards, and iguanas. Two special observation towers aidbird-watching.

The largest hotel on the island is the P laza Resort, part of a D utchchain that books a high percentage of Europeans. Only one other hotelhas more than 100 rooms; four hotels have more than 50 rooms; andeight hotels are in the 10- to 49-room range. Almost all are near thecapital, with two on the east coast at Lac Bay. Most hotels have divepackages; others will be glad to arrange them.

What’s Special aboutBonaire?Lengthy brochures and books are devoted toBonaire’s underwater reef communities, whichare renowned for a number of reasons. Theincredible dive sites are close to shore, andthe current is usually mild. The island of

Bonaire is actually the peak of a submergedmountain, the sides of which are deep, slop-ing reefs. Many of the reefs have very sud-den drops, and visibility runs to 100 feetand more. Because rainfall is very light inthis dry part of the Caribbean, there is littlerunoff to cloud the water’s clarity.

C o u r t e s y o f T o u r i s m C o r p o r a t i o n B o n a i r e

S no r k eling in B o nair e

Bonaire Marine Park, encompassing the entire coastline, has been pro-tecting the riches of the reef since 1979. In November 1999, itachieved national park status. Regulations are strict. Touching, steppingon, and collecting coral or shells are firmly forbidden, as is spearfishing.Boats may not drop anchor anywhere in the park. Instead, boats may

tie up at 44 specified mooring sites.

The variety of coral is staggering: knobb y brain and giant brain coral,elkhorn and staghorn, mountainous star, gorgonian, and black coral areall part of the reef. Snorkelers as well as deeper divers will enjoy theabundance of colorful fish.

For those who do not dive or who want a bit of variety in their watersport s, Bonaire of fers plenty o f snorkeling, sailing, windsurfing,kayaking, and deep-sea fishing. Nor should visitors overlook Bonaire’sbeaches. Beaches with sands of many colors (such as Pink Beach onthe southwest coast), black beaches formed by black coral and its shells,beaches partially in caves, and Sorobon on the southeast coast (for au

naturel sunbathing) are some of the choices.

Bonaire’s terrestrial ecosystem is also special, even though it receivesless attention than the aquatic world. Caves, cliffs, and desert land-scapes await exploration. Extensive bird life flutters about. Rental cars,taxis, or four-wheel drives can take visitors to these areas. For the fit,mountain-biking is an environmentally friendly way to enjoy theisland’s natural resources; one can horseback-ride and hike trails in thenational park, such as the one to MountBrandaris (the highest pointon Bo naire). B onaire is an o bvious choice for nat ure lovers.

Celebrations and Special EventsBonaire’s Carnival is one of its most famed and anticipated events, justas it is on its sister isles. Although some might think that Bonaire is justa diving paradise, its sporting diversity is apparent in the OctoberSailing Regatta, the second of the island’s two big events. This racebrings in yachts and sailors from all over the Americas.

Fishing, windsurfing, and diving tournaments as well as other sailing

events help fill the island’s schedule of water challenges. Bonaire’sannual Dive Festival in June is the highlight of the diving year. Theunique Rincon Day (April 30) celebrates the traditions and culture ofthe island’s oldest village.

In 1984 a rust-

bottom ed cargo ship

w as confiscated for its

contraband of 25,000

pounds of m arijuana.

The 80-footHilma Hooker sank unclaim ed

one calm day in 9 0 feet

of water and is now

one of the m ost popular

dive sites.

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲

Dining and EntertainmentCompared to Aruba and Curaçao, Bonaire does not have as wide aselection o f dining choices. H ow ever, restaurants here are a pleasantsurprise with excellent preparation and presentation. Mexican and Asiandishes are popular, but fresh-caught fish is always a best bet. Importedsteaks and other meat s are readily available, and D utch cheeses areplentiful. Indonesian r i jstt afel should not be missed, especially if clientsare not stopping on Aruba or Curaçao and have never tried it. Asklocals for restaurant recommendations. Sate (marinated meat with cur-ried peanut sauce) is another Indonesian delicacy served in Bonaire.

Some o f B onaire’s nightlife focuses on diving. A few bars and resort shave dive-related slide shows and videos on different evenings. Someardent d ivers even go night diving, after having dived during the day.This day-and-night exertion sends many holiday-makers to bed early,but those looking for nightspots will find a few long-standing

discothèq ues and popular bars. M ost resorts are near the capital, buttwo are located across the island on Lac Bay: Lac Bay Resort andSorobon. Cai on Lac Bay hosts a weekly party every Sunday. Two casi-nos are available: one in Plaza Resort Bonaire (now the largest hotel onthe island) and the other at the Divi Flamingo Beach Resort.

Cruise CallSmall cruise lines call at Bonaire. Specialty yachts and charters, whichfocus on diving and adventure sports, port here regularly.

Selling BonaireTwo of the largest markets for Caribbean vacations are beach-resortersand act ive spor ts-adventurers. D iving is a huge part of the latter nichemarket. Agents choosing to specialize in the dive market should famil-iarize themselves with B onaire, to gain credibility if no thing else. P lentyof o ther islands (indeed, prob ably a majority of them) have the creden-tials to attract the dive crowd, but most aficionados would rank theCayman Islands and Bonaire right at the top.

Travel agents who lack knowledge about the dive market sometimeslose divers to out -of-tow n specialists or wholesalers. This is especiallytrue of agents located in U .S. cities that d o no t have a lot of nonstopservice to the C aribbean. H ow ever, avid divers will endure longer traveltimes, make connections, and spend more money, when necessary, inorder to pursue their passion. O nce you have learned something aboutthe dive market, you should acquaint yourself with the connections and

An unusual pre-

C hristm as event

unique to the island isthe Bari Fe stival,

w hich com m em orates

and recounts the

year’s events. This

D ecem ber festival

features the “Tam bu,”a

dance accom panied by

songs in a question-

and-answ er style that

satirize local events.

C hurch choirs and

other organizations

perform m usic as w ell.

The event’s purpose is

enjoym ent, but it also

has a unifying effect

on the w hole com m u-

nity of B onaire.

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲

service to Bonaire from your area. Be sure to use dive packages, whichare offered by almost all hotels, rather than individual components.

Island SecretO n D ecember 30, 1999, the ownership of the uninhabited island o fKlein Bonairewas transferred to Bonaire and its people. The island,which lies just one-half mile offshore from the capital and the island’smajor hotels, is a nesting place for sea turtles and birds. H ow ever,because of its prime location, the former owners had been planning todevelop the island for hotels or residences. An island preservationfoundat ion, t he World Wildlife Fund, and the B onaire go vernmentraised most of the $4.6 million needed to conserve it in its naturalbeauty for generations to come. At some time in the future, it willbecome a national park. Klein Bonaire is easy to reach from the capital;its best beach, the former No Name Beach, has been renamed Playa

Neme, in honor of the former ow ners.

Key Points about Bonaire• O ne of the top dive destinations in the C aribbean

• Bo naire Marine Park encircling the island and a national park (yet tobe established) on Klein Bonaire

• Ecotravelers’ destination on b oth land and sea

For More InformationTourism Corporation Bonaire10 Rockefeller Plaza, Suite 900New York, NY 10020Phone: 800-BO NAIRE (800-266-2473) or 212-956-5912Fax: 212-956-5913E-mail: info@tourismbonaire.comWeb site: ww w.infobonaire.com

Willemstad

Christoffel National ParkWestpoint

Lagoon

Soto•

Punda District

Queen Emma Bridge

Otrobanda District

Kurá Hulanda Museum

Curaçao Sea Aquarium

C u r a ç a o U n d e r w a t e r P a r k

Emmastad

CURAÇAO

Kilometers

9.8•

Capital

City or town

Attraction

Curaçao

F ew sights in the Caribbean are as emblematic of a place as is theD utch architecture along C uraçao’s downt ow n w aterfront. The

island’s D utch atmosphere, dut y-free shopping, and cosmopolitanflavor reflect Old World charm and Caribbean warmth. Curaçao is adiverse island that sun-worshippers, divers, and other sports enthusiastscan share with those who enjoy gambling, shopping, and culture.

Arrival and Location Briefing

Two scheduled nonstop flights arrive daily (one on Saturday) fromMiami. There are also weekly charters from Atlanta (nonstop) andBoston (with one stop in Aruba). Check on charters from other citiesdepending on season. Flights between Curaçao and its sister islands,Bonaire and Aruba, are frequent during the day. Willemstad, Curaçao’scapital, is seven and a half miles from the airport. Most major hotels areon the southern coast of the island, not too far from Willemstad andthe airport. Taxi fares to these hotels are reasonable, especially whensplit among a few people. Make arrangements with the several majorhotels on other parts of the island for airport transfers, unless clientsdecide to rent a car.

Transportation among the ABC Islands is usually by plane, as the dis-tances are a bit too far for ferries.

Local TransportationBuses and minivans shuttle along the southern side of the island inboth directions from Willemstad. They are frequent and efficient.H ow ever, schedules for t rips on public transportat ion to o utlying loca-tions should be checked carefully to make sure there will be a bus back

in the afternoon or evening. A tourist “ trolley” makes the rounds in anhour-and-a-q uarter to ur of the capital’s major sight s.

Those needing late-night taxis from nightspots or taxis at any timefrom outlying areas of the island should arrange them in advance. Taxisdo not cruise much, so it’s better to phone.

Car rentals are a good option here for those staying at outlying hotels

Southern Caribbean: Curaçao •35

Curaçao Fast FactsLand Area

82 square miles

Population

152,700

Capital

Willemstad

Time Zone

Drive on

Currency

Netherlands Antilles florin or guilder

Electr ic i ty

110–130 volts, 50 cycles AC, same as

and desiring to see Willemstad and the rest of the island. For themajority who are staying closer in, car rentals are less necessary. Somehotels offer shuttle service from their beach locations to and fro mdowntown Willemstad.

Around the Island: AttractionsOne gaze at Willemstad (WI H L uhm staht ), often called “ LittleAmsterdam,” transport s the visitor across the seas to the N etherlands.Narrow Dutch buildings with gabled fronts and red-tiled roofs line thewaterfront’s Pundadistrict. But their vibrant colors reveal a Caribbeancharacter as well. Few islands have such a distinct European ambiance,and few sights in the Caribbean are as grand as a cruise ship in the harborwith this fairy-tale facade as a backdrop. Cruise clients will want to pho-tograph both their ship in the harbor and the harbor from their ship.

A sea channel cuts through the heart of the city, dividing the Pundadistrict from Otrobanda, which literally means the “ other side.” Thischannel is crossed by one of the world’s most unusual bridges. TheQueen Emma Bridge, a pedestrian walkway powered by a dieselengine, swings open many times a day to let ships pass into the harbor.Punda, the side for to urists, is crammed with shops and restaurants,while Otrobanda has narrow, winding streets with many private homesnotable for their Dutch design.

A ferry also connects the two sides of the port, as does the magnificentQueen Juliana Bridge, which stands 181 feet above the water. The

bridge provides lovely views of the city’s palette of hues, ever-changingas the sun slants across the sky, and magnificent at night.

Many visitors spend the day walking, shopping, and sightseeingamidst the architecture of Punda’s government buildings,shops, and cafés, but there are other must-sees in Willemstad.The Floating Market bustles early every morning asVenezuelan schooners arrive with fruits andvegetables. Buying is best before 6:30 A.M ., but people-watching is good at any time.

Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue, founded in 1651, isthe oldest one in continuous use in the WesternH emisphere. A museum displays Jewish family antiq uesand artifacts from all over the world. At the foot of theQueen Emma Bridge are the walls of Fort Amsterdam,and across from it is Waterfort, both dating from the1700s. Today Waterfort is a restaurant complex, but orig-

M i k v é I s ra e l - E ma n u e l S

y na g o g u e C o u r t e s y o

f C u r a ç a o T o u r i s t B o a

W hen the Queen

Emm a Bridge w as ini-

tially built in 1888,

there w as a toll for

pedestrians w ho w ished

to use it—a toll

designed to prom ote

social equality. Each

person w ith shoes w ascharged tw o cents.

Pedestrians w ithout

shoes could cross for

free. B ut hum an nature

and D utch pride con-

spired against this lofty

goal. The poorest peo-

ple in tow n w ould bor-

row shoes to prove

their ability to pay, and

the rich w ould take

their shoes off to savethe tw o cents. Later,

the toll w as abandoned.

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲

inal cannons sit atop the battlements. On weekdays, tours are given ofSenior Curaçao’s Liqueur Factory, one of the island’s top sights.

Just east of the capital visitors can view the island’s underwater king-doms at the Curaçao Sea Aquarium in the area of the CuraçaoUnderwater Park. Nearby, snorkelers and divers can experienceAnimal Encountersand Shark Encounters, in which they get toswim in complete safety with all sorts of denizens of the deep. In someinstances, they swim openly with the marine creatures; in others, meshand Plexiglas keep them separated.

The rest of the island is also intriguing. The western side remindsAmerican visitors of the Great Southwest. Cacti and dried shrubberydot the cunucu (countryside). Women pound cornmeal and fishermenhaul nets, while donkeys wander the roads. E state houses of the pros-perous Dutch of centuries ago can be glimpsed from the highway.Landhuis Jan Kok, built in 1650 and thought to be the oldest build-ing on the island, is now a museum. Other plantation houses are opento the public and display the island’s arts and crafts.

At the western tip of the island is Christoffel National Park.

G ardens, a w ildlife preserve, t hree plantation houses, caves, and a semi-arid landscape of cacti and divi-divi trees can be explored on foot or byjeep. A rigorous climb to the top of 1,230-foot Mt. Christoffel affordsthrilling views.

The large resort-casino complexes tend to be in or near Willemstad atbeaches along the southern coast. Construction of new hotels and

reconstruction of older properties have quickened as Curaçao seeks tomake up revenue lost from other industries such as oil. Both Marriottand Sheraton came to the island in 1999, taking over existing ho tels.The island’s first all-inclusive, Sunset Waters Beach Resort Curaçao,opened in July 2000.

H otel Kurá H ulanda, with 120 luxury apartments, opened in the sum-mer of 2000. Each apartment in this customized boutique hotel isunique and is furnished with antiques from the 1800s. A conferencecenter overloo ks the famous Punda w aterfront. (See “ I sland Secret” forinformation on the museum of the same name.) Ground was broken

recently on Riffort Village, a shopping-entertainment co mplex that willbe modeled after the Wharf in Baltimore.

What’s Special about Curaçao?Curaçao is special due to the diversity of its activities and economic sec-tors. Its only rivals in colonial architecture are the large cities of the

G reater Antilles established by the Spanish. The classification o f itsdownt ow n area as a U NE SCO World H eritage Site is proof of itsspecial quality. Views of the capital from a number of vantage pointsare among the most memorable sights in the Caribbean. But Curaçaoalso has beaches, trails to hike, excellent diving, ample nightlife, and

cultural events.

The island’s shopping rivals the famed duty-free markets of St. Thomasand St-Martin. Sophisticated and cosmopolitan, yet still Caribbean,Curaçao is also influenced by its proximity not only to Venezuela, butto all of South America. A large number of its visitors are short-termvisitors from there.

Two classic sailing ships take passengers on day trips along Curaçao’ssouthern coast. A unique windjammer cruise occasionally does two- orfive-day sails thro ugh t he islands of f Venezuela. The Blue Bay G olfC ourse, C uraçao’s first 18-hole course, opened in 2000.

Celebrations and Special EventsCarnival in Curaçao is one of the Caribbean’s best. The celebrationsbegin in early January with jump-ups and revelers masquerading in tra-ditional costumes. L ater events include a H orseback Parade and theTumba Festival with the island’s best composers, singers, and bands.Carnival concludes with the Grand March on the Sunday before Lentand t he Farewell March o n the Tuesday before Lent.

Music lovers will want to note the Salsa Festival that is held in earlyAugust and the Jazz Festival in late May. B oth feature internationallyknown artists.

Dining and EntertainmentWith its cosmopolitan atmosphere, Curaçao has dining options thatequal any in the Caribbean. As on St-Mart in, C uraçao offers D utch-Indonesian fare, especially r ij stt afel. A Surinamese restaurant takesDutch-Indonesian cuisine one step further, adding its own South

American to uch (Suriname, o n the nort hern coast o f South America, isthe former D utch G uiana).

South American, European, Middle Eastern, Indian, and Chinese restau-rants provide a wide choice of dining options. There are also many local,Caribbean, and seafood places, but they do not dominate the way theydo on other islands. Fast-food chains are also represented.

C uraçao’s Mushroom

Foresthas been singled

out by Scuba Diving

m agazine as one of the

top 15 dive sites in the

w orld. C uraçao

is rated highly for off-

shore diving and as a

destination for new

divers. An abundance of

professional dive

operations is available.

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲

C uraçao has top entertainment night spots. The Salinja district has thehottest, featuring the latest in international pop music and Latinrhythms; but there are plenty of beach bars, discothèques, and night-clubs around the city, along the coast, and at hotels. On most nights,visitors can sample from special featured entertainment, such as a party

and fo lklore show at a landhuis (Dutch plantation ho use) and jazzperformances at other venues. Most major hotels also have casinos ontheir premises. There is also a government-regulated red-light district.

Cruise CallBecause of the beauty of its harbor and architecture and its excellentshopping, Willemstad is one of the Caribbean’s favorite ports of call.Ships dock within walking distance of the downtown area at a new cruise-ship pier that opened in 1999. There is a shopping and cafécomplex right at the dock, but the shops in town are much more varied.

Those who enjoy the pleasures and sights of a city and have had theirfill of beach and water activity will find plenty of interest in Willemstad.Those who want both can sightsee in town for a few hours and thentake a taxi to one of the nearby beach resorts for an afternoon of funand relaxation. They can also reach the Seaquarium quite easily by taxi.Those who want to see the rugged western side of the island can dotheir own taxi tour (every driver will know the standard tour) or takeone of the tours offered by the cruise line.

Selling CuraçaoAs a premier cruise stop, Curaçao cannot be beat. Selling it as a one-week destination is more of a challenge. Most travelers who are lookingfor a Caribbean vacation will find that Aruba meets their ideal, ratherthan busy, bustling, and sometimes commercial-looking C uraçao.

H ow ever, C uraçao will appeal to clients who are used to b ig-cityvacations and European travel, are not too fond of lying on the beachand water sports, and yet are looking to escape to the warm sun of theCaribbean. If you choose the right resort, your clients will have the

beach and pool when they want it and will be in close proximity torestaurants, sights, shopping, entertainment, and hot el casinos. Thoug ha bit more distant than most islands, Curaçao is ideal for a long week-end for these same clients, if they are within driving distance of one ofthe major cities with direct air service (definitely Miami and New York,but check Atlanta, Tampa, and other cities at the time your clients wantto travel). It’s easy to combine Curaçao with either Aruba or Bonaire

for clients who do not mind a change of hotel in return for two verydifferent island experiences.

Island SecretThe Kurá Hulanda Museumpresents exhibits devoted to the history ofslavery in the islands. Opened in 1999, it is supposed to be the largestmuseum complex in the Caribbean and is located on the former site ofthe island’s slave yard. The museum features the “ D arw in-LeakeyRoo ms,” which show finds from O lduvai G orge in Tanzania, and the“ Slave Trade and M iddle Passage” exhibit, with a full-size reconstructionof the hold of a slave ship and artifacts from the West African Empires.

The founder of the museum is Jacob D ekker, a D utch Jew whowas left on his own as a young boy and became a millionaireentrepreneur. H e educated himself about the rich culture of Africa and

the history o f slavery and used $6 million o f his own funds to financethe museum.

Key Points about Curaçao• Willemstad

• D utch and international influences

• D iversity of experiences

• C uraçao: for culture enthusiasts and people-lovers

For More InformationCuraçao Tourist Board475 Park Avenue South, Suite 2000New York, NY 10016Phone: 800-C U RACAO (800-328-7222)Also: 800-270-3350 or 212-683-7660Fax: 212-683-9337E-mail: ctdbny@ctdb .com

Web site: ww w.Curacao-tourism.com

x i c o

P u e r t o

R i c o

B e r m u d a

M o n t s e r r a t

T u r k s a n d

C a i c o s I s l a n d s

C u b a

H o n d u r a s

E l S a l v a d o r

P a n a m a

C o l o m b i a

V e n e z u e l a

G u y a n a

B r a z i l

M a r g a r i t a

I s l a n d

T r i n i d a d

S u r i n a m e

F r e n c h

G u i a n a

J a m a

H a i t i

D o m i n i c a n

R e p u b l i c

M e x i c o

C o z u

C a n c ú n

i c a r a g u a

C o s t a

R i c a

T o b a g o

B a r b a d o s

G r e n a d a

S t . V i n c e n t a n d

t h e G r e n a d i n e s

S t . L u c i a

M a r t i n i q u e

G u a d e l o u p e

B a r b u d a

S t . K i t t s A n t i g u a

D o m i n i c a

A r u b a

C u r a ç a o

B o n a i r e

B a h a m a s

. V i r g i n

l a n d s

B r i t i s h V i r g i n

I s l a n d s

N e v i s

A n g u i l l a S

t - B a r t h é l e m y

S t - M a r t i n /

S i n t M a a r t e n

S a b a

S t . E u s t a

t i u s

I S L A N D S W I N D W AR D I S L AN D S

L L E S

Y U C A T Á N

P E N I N S U L A

G u a t e m a l a

B e l i z e

C a y m a n I s l a n d s

C a r t a g e n a

S a n A n d r é s I s l a n d

B a y I s l a n d s

S a n B l a s I s l a n d s

L a G u a i r a C a r a c a s

42 •Destination Specialist Caribbean © The Travel Institute

W E S T E R

N C A R I B B E A N

A N D T H E C O A S T O F L A T I N A M E R I C A

Wester n Car i bbean and the Coast of Lat i n Amer i ca

The following chapters are presented to give as complete a picture as possible

of destinations that have a direct b earing on decisions involving a C aribbeanvacation. Most of the countries here belong properly to a study of LatinAmerica. Yet each country has either a location on the Caribbean, or is tiedto it geo graphically, culturally, and econo mically, as in the cases of G uyanaand Suriname. Each has a reason for consideration for someone’s trip to theregion. When divers decide where to go, they may consider the Bay Islandsof H onduras or the coast of B elize, as well as the many dive destinationscovered earlier in the text. Fun seekers may be attracted to Cancún. AndCaribbean cruises may stop at Venezuela, allowing a trip to its capital,C aracas. Adventurers and eco-to urists may decide on Suriname or G uyana.

These chapters only briefly consider the destinations listed. They will focus onwhere they are located, why American vacationers might choose them, andwhere they fit into the overall Caribbean picture. The Travel Institute’sDesti nati on Special i st Mexi co course covers the Mexican destinations morethoroughly. These countries, roughly from north to south and west to east, are

■ Cuba

■ Mexico: C ancún and C ozumel

■ Central America• Belize• H onduras—The Bay Islands

• Panama—The San Blas Islands

■ South America• C olombia—C artagena and San Andrés Island• Venezuela—Caracas and Margarita Island• G uyana• Suriname

Pinar Del Rio

Artemisa GuinesMatanzas

Cardenas

Cienfuegos

Sagua La Grande

Santa ClaraPlacetas

Ciego De Avila

Morón

Florida Camaguey

Manzanillo Bayamo

Holguin

Santiago De Cuba

Guantánamo

Havana

Isla de la Juventud

Nueva Gerona

Varadero Beach

Kilometers

570•

Capital

City or town

Attraction

C uba (KYOO buh ), of course, is an even more special case than theother destinations explored in this last unit. Furthermore, there is

little doubt that at least some of the information presented in this sectionwill have changed by t he time you read it. B e sure to check the U .S.State D epartment website (ww w.travel.state.g ov) for current information.

At present, the U .S. Stat e D epartment prohibits conventional Americanvacation o r business travelers from g oing t o C uba. H ow ever, there area number of exceptions, and the policy is expected to continue tochange in coming years. To date, the changes in travel policy have been

slight, but there may be significant changes in the future. Technically,as of this writing, t he U .S. regulations state that people under U .S.jurisdiction cannot “ engage in any transactions related to travel to,from, and within” C uba, unless they fall into certain licensed categoriesor get U .S. go vernment permission.

No attempt will be made here to describe Cuba’s vast number ofsight s, its culture, or its tourism potential. I t is the largest and mostpopulous island in the Caribbean and receives almost 2 million visitorsannually, the bulk of whom come from Canada and Europe. Recently,tourism has been booming as the country tries to recoup foreign

exchange used to buy imports.

Before the Cuban revolution in 1959, Cuba was the leading Caribbeandestination for American travelers, albeit in a time when travel to otherislands was only in its early stages. It has a vast tourism infrastructure,including many hotels recently built o r renovated by leadinginternational chains. I n numbers of hotel rooms, it is surpassed only bythe D ominican Republic. O n an island w ith large untapped resources inland, tourism has become the number-one industry.

When the U .S. State D epartment allows U .S. residents and citizens to

travel to Cuba again, the island will, in time, resume its status as one ofthe Caribbean’s biggest draws for American visitors, by virtue of its size,proximity, and diversity. Travel agents will then want to familiarizethemselves with Cuba’s major sights and destinations and the state ofservices of fered. M ost people believe these changes will occur very soon.

Many ho tel companies are building fo r a future when the U nited States

Cuba Fast FactsLand Area

42,000 square miles

Population

11 million

Capital

Havana

LanguagesSpanish

Time Zone

UTC -5 or EST. It does observe daylight-

saving time.

Drive on

Currency

Cuban peso and U.S. dollar

Electr ic i ty

110 volts, 60 cycles AC, same as the

will permanently open the door for travel to the island, as it did tem-porarily in the late 1970s under the C arter administration. At that time,the island’s infrastructure and services were such that it drew mostlythe curious, the politically and culturally interested, and the budgettraveler. Some predict a boom in travel when the door opens again,

perhaps in the very near future.

When the rush begins, you will need to learn about the politically, his-torically, and culturally rich city of Havanaand the long strand ofVaradero Beach to the east o f it. H avana is the largest city in theCaribbean. Varadero contains dozens of high-rise resorts and all-inclu-sives. H avana and Varadero w ill probably be the most popular packagein the beginning. They are close to the U nited States and close to eachother, and they have by far the largest number of hotel rooms; conse-quently, most packages will feature them. Agents can then take the timeto learn about other Cuban destinations as they develop and as travelersbegin to discover the rest o f the island.

For More InformationCuban Tourist Board1200 Bay St., Suite 305Toronto , O ntario, C anada M5R 2A5Phone: 416-362-0700Fax: 416-362-6799E-mail: info@go cuba.caWeb site: www.cubatravel.cu

ww w.gocuba.ca (for C anadians)

The U .S. dollar is the

currency both of choice

and of necessity for

m ost travelers. M ost

paym ents for hotels

and other travel

expenses can be m ade

only in dollars. Pesos

m ay be used for sm aller

transactions, such as

purchases in sm all

stores and fares forpublic transportation.

C redit cards and

traveler’s checks issued

by U .S. banks and

credit card com panies

cannot be used.

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ Did you know?

Cozumel

IslaMujeres

YUCATÁN PENINSULA

MEXICO

PANAMA

GUATEMALA

BELIZE

JAMAICA

EL SALVADOR

HONDURAS

NICARAGUA

UNITED STATES

GULF OF

MEXICO

Mexico City

Mérida

Chichén Itzá

Xel-Ha

Puerto Vallarta

Manzanillo

Acapulco

Ixtapa

Cancún

Palancar Reef

Playa del Carmen

AMERICA

Kilometers

Cancún

Cozumel

536•

Capital

City or town

Attraction

MEXICO

Cancún

Thirty years ago the barrier island that we know today as Cancún(kan KOON ) was inhabited by iguanas, turtles, birds, and the few Mayans who took a different road from their ancestors (most of whomlived inland). Mexico’s far-seeing tourism officials fed informationabout the entire country into computers to come up with the idealspot to develop for a new age of tourism. They found such a spot at

the t ip of the Yucatán P eninsula. They named the area Cancún, andtoday it hosts more than 2 million vacationers a year and is a city of300,000 inhabitants.

Almost since its inception, this planned tourist development has beennot only the most popular vacation destination in Mexico but also inNorth America. Technically, Cancún is an island; however, shortbridges connect it to the Yucatán, so it feels like part of the mainland.C ancún’s tourism infrastructure is larger than any island or count ry inthe Caribbean. It has more than 20,000 hotel rooms.

The Caribbean waters around Cancún are crystalline, and the beacheshave almost pure-white sand. More than 100 hotels line the quarter-mile-wide, 14-mile-long strip, which is joined at one end to Cancún Cityon the mainland. The lagoons that separate Cancún from the mainlandprovide a safe haven for water sports. Cancún also makes a good homebase for visiting Mayan ruins in the interior of the Yucatán Peninsula.

Cancún is undeniably Mexican, but to most visitors it’s a cultureof tequila and cervezas, serapes and sombreros, and fajitas andhamburguesas. The vast acres of sand, the warm Gulf of Mexico, and the24-hour activities, added to the familiar Mexican-American culture, are

what make it one of the world’s favorite destinations.

On the other hand, within a few hours’ drive of Cancún are Mayanruins that are some of the greatest archeological sights in NorthAmerica, Tulum and Chichén Itzá. The engaging Yucatán capital ofMérida is not much farther away but is a bit too far for most day trips.

Mexi co Fast FactsLand Area

Cancún: 14 miles long and .5 mile wide

Cozumel: 31 miles long and 9 miles

wide (as such, it is Mexico’s largest

island)

Population

Cancún: 300,000

Cozumel: 47,800Capital

Mexico City

Languages

Spanish. English is spoken throughout

the tourist areas.

Time Zone

UTC -6 or Central Standard Time (CST)

(EST -1). It does observe daylight-

saving time.

Drive on

Currency

Mexican peso

Electr ic i ty

110 volts, 60 cycles AC, same as U.S.

Around CancúnCancún offers more than 100 hotels and villa complexes, ranging frombudget, concrete-block hotels in Cancún City to the most deluxeestablishments on acres of beach. The 14-mile stretch of beaches andaccommodations is dedicated to vacation pleasure and entertainment.

A few remnants of Mayan ruins lie between hotel sites; they are ofinterest to those who plan to venture no farther than the pool andbeach. For those with broader interests, a number of fascinating daytrips are possible.

One such day trip is to Isla Mujeres (I Z lah moo H AY race ), situatedsix miles off the coast and easily accessible by boat or car ferry. Theisland is five miles long and a half-mile wide. It has flat sandy beacheson the northern end and steep rocky bluffs in the south. Tranquillity isthe theme here, especially off-season and for those who stay overnight,

after the day-trippers have left. Snorkeling, swimming, and beachcomb-ing are the main activities. There are several hotels for those who wantto stay overnight.

The extensive ruins of Tulum (too LOOM ), one of the few Mayan citiesbuilt on a coast, are a one-and-a-half-hour drive south of Cancún. Atrip here is usually accompanied by a stop for snorkeling and swimmingin the idyllic sea lagoon of Xel-Ha (hay LA H ), now a national park.Protected by breakers and land that allow only a few openings from thesea, Xel-H a’s lagoo n has become a natural aquarium.

at Tulum

C o u r t e s y

o f M e x i c o

T o u r i s m

B o a r d

Serious sightseers will want to make the two- to three-hour journeyinland to Chichén Itzá, one of the great archaeological sites in NorthAmerica. This huge Mayan city, w hich was abandoned long beforeCortés arrived, contains the famous El Castillo pyramid, the Caracolobservator y, a M ayan ballpark, temples, and many o ther buildings.

Mérida, the capital of the Yucatán, and other Mayan ruins are in thearea for those who want to explore further and stay overnight.

Cozumel

Vacationers who desire expansive beaches, superb diving conditions,and copious wildlife, in a much less developed atmosphere thanC ancún, might choose Co zumel (KO soo mel ). Located 12 miles offthe coast o f the Yucatán P eninsula, t he island is an important touristattraction; however, it contains only about one-sixth as many hotel

rooms as Cancún.

Cozumel has found a way to balance nature and tourism. Thevast majority of Cozumel’s land area consists of undevelopedbeaches, lagoons, coves, palm groves, swamps, and low hills.H ow ever, C ozumel is a major cruise port. I t lies opposite thetown of Playa del Carmen, about an ho ur south o f C ancún.Playa del Carmen has itself become a low-key resort.

Cozumel has its own airport, and most of the flights areshuttles to and from Cancún. The airport occasionally

receives continuing flights from other Mexican cities orcharters from t he U nited States (which usually stop inC ancún as well). D uring the day, frequent ferries connectC ozumel with P laya del Carmen.

What’s Special about Cancúnand Cozumel?The market for Cancún includes every sector of the conventional sand-sea-sun vacationers who make up the bulk of travelers to theCaribbean. It is a destination that appeals to almost everyone.

O ff the Yucatán coast are some o f the Western H emisphere’s premierdive sites, rivaling those Caribbean destinations such as the CaymanIslands and Bonaire. Every type of dive is offered—from sunken-ship(and plane) dives to photography or deep-wall dives. Palancar Reef,located just a mile offshore from Cozumel, is the most famous of the

C o z u m e l

C o u r t e s y o f M e x i c o T o u r i s m B o a r d

area’s reef systems. D iving is goo d o n trips leaving from C ancún andIsla Mujeres, but dedicated divers are most likely to stay on Cozumel.

All other water sport s are found in C ancún and nearby areas—wind-surfing, deep-sea fishing, snorkeling, sailing—and can be practicedunder optimal conditions, w ith t he best facilities.

The ruins of the great Mayan and o ther pre-C olumbian civilizat ions areanother special attribute of this area. Tulum, Chichén Itzá, and someminor sites are near Cancún (Cozumel also has some sites), but thosewho wish to see or learn about these civilizations in greater depth willneed to stay a few nights out of Cancún. There are many other sites, aswell as others in the jungle yet to be discovered.

Cruise Call

Many cruises anchor off the coast of Playa del Carmen and tenderpassengers to the Yucatán coast for visits to Tulum and Xel-Ha. Theships then proceed to Cozumel. More ambitious archeological tours aresometimes offered to huge Cobá, deep in the interior of the Yucatán,or to Chichén Itzá, which is a long trip. After they finish their tours onthe mainland, passengers take a ferry to Cozumel to meet the ship.They will generally have time to shop and see a bit o f C oz umel beforeembarking. Cruisegoers can also enjoy plenty of snorkeling, scuba-div-ing, and safari-like trips into Cozumel’s interior. Smaller ships occasion-ally call at C ancún.

Key Points• C ancún: largest M exican beach resort and largest single resort area in

the Caribbean

• Isla Mujeres

• Tulum and Xel-H a

• Chichén Itzá and other Mayan ruins

• Co zumel: center for diving

For More InformationMexico Tourism Board21 East 63rd Street, 3rd FloorNew York, NY 10021Phone: 800-44-MEXICO or 212-821-0314Fax: 212-821-0367E-mail: milmgto@interport .netWeb site: www.mexico-travel.com

Gulf of Panama

MEXICO

PANAMA

EL SALVADOR

GUATEMALA

BELIZE

HONDURAS

NICARAGUA

COSTA RICA

JAMAICASan Pedro

Punta Gorda

Altun Ha

YUCATÁN PENINSULA

Crooked TreeWildlife Sanctuary

Dangriga

PlacenciaPeninsula

San Blas IslandsPanamaCanal

Bay Islands

UtilaRoatán

Guanaja

La Ceiba

San Pedro Sula

Belmopan

San Jose

Tegucigalpa

PanamaCity

San Salvador

Guatemala

Managua

Ambergris Caye

Cockscomb Jaguar Preserve

Belize City Caye Caulker

CayoDistrict

P A C I F I C O C E A N

AMERICA

Kilometers

Belize

Honduras

Panama

Bay Islands

San Blas Islands

Capital

City or town

Attraction

CENTRAL AMERICA

Belize

Belize (beh LEEZ ) is a tiny English-speaking country on the east coastof Central America on the Caribbean Sea. It was known as BritishH onduras for more than 100 years and achieved independence in

1981. Although Belize has several upscale modern resorts in AmbergrisC aye and the inland Cayo D istrict, it is geared mo re for sports enthusi-asts, ecotourists, and adventurers.

Belize has a wealth of natural beauty. The 185-mile-long barrier reef lin-ing it s shore is the longest coral reef in the Western H emisphere and isclassified as a U NE SCO World H eritage N atural Site. H undreds ofoffshore islands and cays make it a dream for divers and explorers. Muchof its interior is still tropical rain forest, mangrove swamp, or protectedjungle wilderness concealing jaguars, manatees, monkeys, and more than500 species of birds. Belize’s rivers, wat erfalls, forests, and western

mountains (over 3,000 feet in altitude) await the outdoorsperson.

Located at the bottom of the Yucatán Peninsula, Belize is also Mayancountry. Ruins of ancient cities and ceremonial sites dot the country:some have been uncovered and are maintained and accessible; others wereunearthed in the past but are becoming hidden today by the encroachingjungle; and still others have not been rediscovered yet.

Eng lish is the of ficial language o f B elize. Many people from Belize alsospeak Spanish due to the influence of their much larger neighbors,Mexico and G uatemala, and due to early centuries of Spanish influence.

More than half of Belizeans speak a Creole dialect among themselves, ablend of English, Spanish, Amerindian, and African languages.

Travelers who are follow ing “ La Ruta Maya” (the Mayan Route) some-times visit Belize. They arrive from the Yucatán Peninsula to the northand then head into the jungles of G uatemala to the west. H ow ever,most visitors fly into Belize City on the east coast and use it as a basefor the cays and reefs or to the tropical interior.

Fast FactsLand Area

8,886 square miles

Population

230,000

Capital

Belmopan

Languages

English

Time Zone

UTC -6 or CST (EST -1). It does not

Drive on

Currency

Belizean dollar

Electr ic i ty

Central

America

Belize has few paved roads, and traveling on them is slow. H ow ever,the popular cays are accessible by plane or water taxi.

Local TransportationThe northern highway toward Mexico and the western highway toBelmopan are paved and lead to important sights that give an overview of the country. For trips along these roads, a rental car is an excellent

option. If visitors are planning to venture very far off these main roadsor to explore the south, they will need a four-wheel-drive vehicle.Roads range from sandy and dusty to bumpy and rutted. Most can beeasily navigated during the dry season, but clients should check on localconditions d uring the rainy season.

Air-conditioned buses provide reliable transportation between maincities and towns, but are not conducive to much exploring in between;you will need to make reservations for these buses. Visitors can also flyto tow ns in the south.

Travel to the two major cays (Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker) is byplane or boat; both travel options are reasonable in price. Travel on thecays themselves is often via rented golf carts.

Around Belize: AttractionsBelize Citywas formerly the capital. H ow ever, after hurricanes badly

U nlike m ost of the

C aribbean, visitors to

B elize usually need

m ore than just birthcertificates or natural-

ization papers. A pass-

port is necessary for

U .S. and other citizens.

An exception is m ade

for Am erican and

C anadian citizens if

they inform B elize

Im m igration at least

one w eek in advance,

state the form of identi-

fication they w ill beusing, and indicate the

port of entry. O bviously,

having a valid passport

is the easier option.

A si te

along the

Mayan Route

u r t e s y

o f t h e

B e l i z e

T o u r i s m

B o a r d

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲

battered low-lying Belize City a number of times, the capital wasmoved 60 miles inland to Belmopan. Nonetheless, Belize City, with apopulation of 30,000, remains by far the most important city in thecountry, but it is used as a base to reach other parts of the country,rather than a vacation location.

Nature travelers may want to visit the Belize Zoo, about halfwaybetween Belize City and Belmopan; the Community BaboonSanctuary in the north (actually, it houses howler monkeys,which are called baboons locally); and the Crooked TreeWildlife Sanctuary and other bird reserves in the north. AltunHa, a major Mayan site, lies 31 miles north of the city off thenorthern highway.

Belize’s barrier reef and cays are a major t ourist at traction formany who come to Belize City. Like the reef, the cays runthe length of the coastline, lying 10 to 40 miles offshore.There are three different types of cays: wet cays, which arepartially submerged some of the time; barren coral out-crops; and sand cays, which resemble miniature versions ofSouth Pacific islands, co mplete w ith coco nut palms andwhite-sand beaches.

Ambergris Cayeis the nation’s major t ourist at traction. Twenty-eightmiles long, it lies off Belize’s northern shore and is separated fromMexico by a channel only a few feet wide. The barrier reef lies about aquarter of a mile offshore, in front of most of the island’s 20 or sohotels, which range in size from three suites to 42 apartments. The vil-

lage of San Pedro is the island’s main center, and Mayan ruins arebeing excavated at the southern t ip of the cay.

Caye Caulker, a much smaller cay to the south, also has excellentsnorkeling and diving. Ambergris Caye is quite relaxed, as is most ofBelize, but Caye Caulker is even more so. A few other cays are inhabitedand have a resort or two, but the rest are used for day trips, beachpicnics, snorkeling, diving, marine environmental studies, and fishing.

Western Belize cont ains Belmopan, the capital. A city of 5,000 resi-dents, B elmopan lies 60 miles southwest o f B elize C ity. I t can be used

as a base for further exploration into the interior. Attractions includeMayan ruins; Blue Hole National Park, located in a rain forest andcontaining sinkholes as deep as 25 feet; and numerous lakes, rivers,caves, and animal reserves. Also nearby are Guanacaste Park andMountain Pine Ridge, with its Hidden Valley Falls. H ow ever, travelto these adventurous areas must be planned carefully, usually with thehelp of local guides and operators.

T o u c an

C o u r t e

l i z e

T o u r i s

o a r d

Those wanting even more adventure can travel south. The area is morethan slightly o ff t he beaten track. Tow ns are small, and archeolog icalsites are more difficult to reach. Roads can be challenging during thedry season (D ecember to May) and impassable during t he rainy season(June to November). Places to visit are Dangriga, center of the

G arifuna (Carib-African) culture; Placencia Peninsula, similar to thecays in topography; the Cockscomb Jaguar Preserve; and the Mayanruins near Punta G orda.

What’s Special about Belize?Among No rth American destinations, Belize ranks near the top in tw omajor travel niche markets: ecotourism and diving.

D iving, snorkeling, and fishing in Belize rank among t he best places inthe C aribbean. The number of islets and cays, und erwater walls and

canyons, fish runs and shipwrecks will outlast many vacation weeks ofexplorat ion. The Blue H ole, a huge limestone sinkhole or invertedcave, lies just offshore Ambergris Caye. It was popularized by the lateJacques Cousteau and remains a favorite dive spot. Belize is a divedestination for those who do not need pampering once they are abovethe surface, but who might enjoy kayaking and canoeing up a jungleriver a few days later.

Fishing can be enjoyed near the reef and o ffshore, in the flats betw eenthe cays, between the cays and the shore, and on inland rivers. M ajorevents, including the International Billfish Tournament in February, are

held throughout the year.

Chartering a boat to cruise around the cays is another popular option.Bareboats (without a crew) can only be chartered inside the reef, butlocal skippers can be hired for trips outside the reef.

Belize is a prime destination for ecotourists. It is tops in bird, animal,and marine life. Five hundred jaguars still roam its jungles, along withpumas, ocelots, and other felines, as well as tapirs, howler monkeys, andthe endangered American crocodile. Belize’s natural aviary includesparrots, macaws, toucans, and giant storks. Although the interior is hot

and humid, visitors can take a refreshing dip in a lagoon, river, orwaterfall. On the cays, offshore breezes help alleviate the hot andhumid weather.

C ulture enthusiasts will also find Belize fascinating. Major M ayan sitesmay not be as easily accessible as some in neighboring Mexico andG uatemala, but they are no less appealing. H ow ever, present-day Belize isalso a fascinating amalgam; the country contains pockets of Mayans,

other indigenous Amerindian groups, and mixed African-Amerindian cul-tures, as well as Mennonites, C hinese, and Middle Eastern immigrants.

Key Points• Belize City and Belmopan

• Ambergris C aye and Caye C aulker

• Barrier reef

• D iving and adventure

• Ecotourism and cultural travel

For More Information

Belize Tourism BoardNew Central Bank Building, Level 2Gabourel LaneP.O. Box 325Belize City, BelizePhone: 800-624-0686 or (011) 501-2-31913Fax: (011) 501-2-31943E-mail: info @travelbelize.o rgWeb site: www.travelbelize.org

The Bay Islands of Honduras

Three islands off the nort hern coast o f H onduras—Roatán, G uanaja,and U tila—are the number-one to urist d raw in a count ry that has rela-

tively few incoming travelers. Most people come for the world-classdiving around these islands, an extension of the barrier reef off Belize;but their beaches, mount ains, and jungly forests appeal to those wholike to explore. Fishing is also top-notch here. The market for the BayIslands is generally experienced divers or travelers, rather than noviceones, tho ugh diving certificate courses are offered. Passport s arerequired for American citizens traveling to H onduras.

The main language on the island is a version of English often referred toas “ island-speak,” a product of centuries of B ritish cont rol while Spainowned the mainland. At present, there are direct flights from Miami and

H ouston. Travelers from the U nited States can also connect inTegucigalpa or San Pedro Sula on the H onduran mainland. Local flightsfrom the coastal town of La Ceiba go to each of the three main islands,and ferry service is available from La C eiba to Roat án and U tila.

Around the Bay IslandsThe busiest island is Roatán (r o ah TAN ), which has a variety of diveoperators and accommodat ions in all price categories. I n add ition to itsreputation as a top dive destination, the island has a mountainous

interior and beautiful beaches. Restaurants, supermarkets, and a numberof other services are available. In cont rast, G uanaja and U tila are moreself-cont ained; visitors must arrange meals and most services withtheir hotel.

Before H urricane Mitch struck in 1998, many people considered t hemountains, waterfalls, and steamy forests of smaller Guanaja

(gwah N AH hah ) to be even more beautiful than Roatán. Guanaja hasa number of first-class to deluxe resorts tucked into coves around thejagged coastline. The resorts are all reached by boat. The main townis built on stilts and piers connected to pontoon boats. Guanaja has

no roads; while on the island, visitors must travel on foot, by horse, orby boat.

Utila(oo TEE lah ) is the smallest of the three islands and closest to themainland. It is mostly swampy and flat, has only a few small beaches,and caters to the budget diver. One of its biggest attractions is thatwhale sharks can be ob served thro ugho ut t he year.

Fast FactsLand AreaRoatán: 49 square miles

Guanaja: 21.5 square miles

Utila: 16 square miles

Population

Roatán: 10,250

Guanaja: 5,000

Utila: 2,400

Capital (of Honduras)

Tegucigalpa

Languages

English, Spanish

Time Zone

UTC -6 or CST (EST -1). They do not

Drive on

Currency

Lempira

Electr ic i ty110 volts, 60 cycles AC, same as U.S.

Some hotels may differ; check when

booking.

H urricane Mitch in 1998 was one of the worst natural disasters of the20th century; t he mainland o f H onduras will be rebuilding for years tocome. Ro atán and U tila were not as hard hit as the mainland, and theirtourism infrastructure was able to return to normalcy soon afterward;however, influxes of people from the mainland have impacted the two

islands both socially and economically. The hurricane had a moredevastating effect on G uanaja; Mitch stalled for 39 hours over theisland, stripping it of vegetat ion and damag ing every structure. Withina few months, some of Guanaja’s resorts were reopened, and thevegetat ion is gro wing back slowly.

For More InformationH onduras Institute of Tourism2100 Ponce de León Boulevard, Suite 1175C oral G ables, FL 33134

Phone: 800-410-9608 or 305-461-0600Fax: 305-461-0602E-mail: gohondurastourism@compuserve.comWeb site: w ww.letsgohonduras.com

The San Blas Islands of Panama

The San Blas (sahn BLA H S ) Islands are in the Caribbean off Panama’snortheastern coast and have one of the most unusual indigenous

cultures. H ow ever, we w ill only cover them very briefly. They areusually an adjunct to a Central American vacation, rather than a trip inthemselves, but they are sometimes a port of call for small cruise ships.

The islands’ Kuna Indiansare among the most advanced andsuccessful tribes in the Americas. They are an autonomous group ofpeople who live independently within the Republic of Panama. Theyare self-governing and make their own laws and rules. Visitors areallowed in villages only during certain hours of the day. The Kuna are amatrilineal society. The women make gold jewelry and incrediblybeautiful hand-embroidery, including reverse-appliqué molas, a prize

souvenir of Central America.

Visitors to the San Blas Islands must go through the mainland ofPanama, altho ugh the Kuna I ndians allow smaller cruise ships to call onthe islands. Passports are required of American citizens traveling toPanama. A tourist card should also be obtained prior to departure.

For More InformationPanama Embassy (in the U nited States)

Attn: Tourist Section2862 McG ill Terrace NWWashington, D .C . 20008Phone: 202-483-1407Fax: 202-483-8413E-mail: nvapanaemb@dc.org(Ms. Noris Alderson, Cultural and Tourism attaché)Web site: www.ipat.gov.pa

Fast FactsLand AreaOver 300 islands and islets, of which

about 50 are inhabited

Population

Approximately 50,000

Languages

Kuna and some Spanish

Main Ci ty

El Porvenir

CapitalPanama City

Time Zone

UTC -5 or EST. They do not observe

daylight-saving time.

Drive on

No paved roads or cars

Currency

Balboa (on par with U.S. dollar)

Electr ic i tyCheck locally. Electricity available in

some of the larger towns. Most of the

islands have none.

FRENCH

GUIANA

ECUADOR

P A R A G U A Y

BOLIVIA

COLOMBIA

VENEZUELA

BRAZIL

Curaçao

Bonaire

Tobago

Barbados

St. Vincent

St. Lucia

Martinique

Guadeloupe

Los Roques

National Park

Suriname River

Wia Wia Reserve

Raleigh Falls/ Volsberg Reserve

PACIFIC

ATLANTIC

EQ UATO R

San Andrés Island

Bogotá

Caracas

Georgetown

La Guaira

Margarita Island

PANAMA

JAMAICA

Trinidad

Grenada

Angel Falls

Orinoco River Delta

Canaima

NationalPark

Galibi Beach

Albina

Kaieteur Falls/

Kaieteur National Park

OrinduikFalls

RupununiSavannah

Paramaribo

Brownsberg Nature Reserve

CartagenaPort of Spain

GUYANA

SURINAME

Kilometers

Venezuela

Colombia

582•

Capital

City or town

Attraction

Guyana

Suriname

SOUTH AMERICA

Colombia

Colombia is one of the most beautiful countries of South America; itcontains all the beauty of high-altitude Andean cities, Amazonianjungles, outstanding Spanish-colonial heritage, and the remains of greatIndian civilizations. U nfortunately, C olomb ia was wracked by drugwars and crime during the 1980s and 1990s, a situation that hadimproved somewhat by 2000 after the government fight against thedrug cartels. These problems have affected the travel situation on the

country’s Caribbean coast somewhat less than in the interior.No netheless, the latest U .S. State D epartment’s bulletin (as of March2004) gave a blanket warning to U .S. citizens against travel toColombia. Check their Web site (www.travelstate.gov) for updates. Insome cases, kidnappers and murderers have turned against foreigners.Passport s are required of American citizens traveling to C olomb ia.

CartagenaColombia is the only country in South America that has both a Pacific

and a Caribbean coast. While its Pacific coast is relatively undeveloped,the Caribbean coast has been important ever since the Spanish arrived.When the country’s political situation improves enough for Americansto feel safe, they might want to visit Cartagena (kahr t ah H AY nuh ),the jewel of the entire Latin-American Caribbean coast. H isto rically,the city is a living museum, a Spanish fortress built by the conquis-tadors. It was from here that they shipped gold, emeralds, and othertreasures of South America to Spain. Walls surround the colonial OldC ity, w hich has been classified as a U NE SCO World H eritage Site.

But history is only one part of Cartagena’s appeal. With its long

beaches, modern hotels, and sultry entertainment, it was on the brinkof becoming a mecca for American and Latin American tourists, untilthe count ry’s problems curbed travel. C harters and packages fromMiami and other cities had been starting in earnest in the 1970s butare minimal at the time of writing. For cruise ships that traverse thePanama C anal or do slightly different itineraries in the southernCaribbean, Cartagena is an excellent port of call. No doubt it willreturn to popularity in the future.

South Amer i ca

Fast FactsLand Area

San Andrés Island: 17 square miles

Population

Cartagena: 700,000

San Andrés: population not availableCapital

Bogotá

Languages

Cartagena: Spanish

San Andrés Island: Spanish, English

Time Zone

UTC -5 or EST. It does not observe day-

light-saving time.

Drive on

Currency

Colombian peso

Electr ic i ty

San Andrés IslandSan Andrés(sahn ahn DRACE ) Islandand its surrounding archipel-ago lie in the Caribbean. The islands are part of Colombian territory,though they are actually much closer to Nicaragua and Panama. SanAndrés Island was originally populated by Puritans, English-Jamaicanswho brought their slaves, and pirates who used it as a hideout. TheBritish ceded it to Spain in 1793, and Spain attached it to Colombiain 1822. Though the official language is Spanish, English is stillwidely spoken.

San Andrés Island and its nearby cays have magnificent beaches, a num-ber of small hotels, and a villa complex. The economy of San AndrésIsland depends heavily on tourism, most of which comes fromColombia and other parts of Latin America. It has a few nightspots andtwo casinos. Flights from Miami once went directly to San AndrésIsland, but today connections are through San José, Costa Rica, or

through Colombian cities.

For More InformationViceminister of Tourism of ColombiaCalle 28, No. 13a–15, Piso 17Santafe de Bogotá, ColombiaPhone: (011) 57-91-283-9927 or (011) 57-91-283-9558Fax: (011) 57-91-282-2329E-mail: reservas@sanandres.net (San Andrés Island Tourism)

Web sites: ww w.cartagenadeindias.com (C artag ena, in Spanish)www.sanandres.net (San Andrés Island)

Venezuela

Venezuela is a large countr y on South America’s nort hern C aribbeancoast with 1,600 miles of Caribbean coastline. It has soaring Andean

peaks, dense jungle, the world’s highest waterfall, 43 national parks,and 23 indigenous tribes, b ut most o f its cities, development, andtourist areas are at lower elevations toward the coast. Two Venezuelandestinations have a direct bearing on C aribbean vacations taken byAmericans: Caracas (and its port town of La Guaira) and MargaritaIsland. Passports valid for at least 6 months are required of Americancitizens traveling to Venezuela.

Caracas

La Guaira (lah GWY r ah ), on Venezuela’s northern coast, is a leadingcruise port on southern C aribbean cruises. I ts importance stems fromthe fact that it is only 14 miles (and 3,000 feet in elevation) fromCaracas (kuh RA H kuhs ), the capital of Venezuela. The opportunity tospend a full day in one of South America’s major cities during aCaribbean cruise is extremely attractive to travelers, especially thosewho have not yet visited that continent.

A day’s tour to C aracas from L a G uaira may include visits to historicPlaza Bolívar, which is flanked by the old Cathedral, theArchbishop’s Palace, and the Capitol; San Francisco Church, built

in 1575; and Arte Colonial, a garden-sheltered colonial residence ofthe Marquis del Toro. Among the many other things to see are anorchid farm and the Murano glass factory (begun by the Murano familyof Venice, Italy). Tours include some shopping time at the glass factoryor in downtown Caracas. Also available is a cable car ride to the top ofEl Avila National Park with fantastic views of Caracas and thesurrounding areas.

La G uaira itself is steeped in histor y and has bounced back very wellfrm the disastrous land slides due to the flooding in 1999. Areas havebeen rebuilt, and new ho tels have been constructed. O rdinarily, o nly

those who choose not to take the Caracas tour spend any time there.Those who decide to travel independently by taxi from the port to thecapital should plan to return to the ship hours before departure. Trafficcan be very heavy on the expressway between Caracas and La G uairaduring normal rush hours and holidays. The ship will wait for stalledtour buses but will seldom do so for individuals.

Fast FactsLand AreaMargarita Island: 300 square miles

Population

Caracas: 5,000,000

Margarita Island: 510,000

Capital

Caracas

Languages

Spanish

Time ZoneUTC -4 or AST (EST + 1). It does not

Drive on

Currency

Bolivar

Electr ic i ty

Margarita IslandMargarita Island is halfway betw een La G uaira and Trinidad and 25miles north of the Venezuelan coast. It can be considered part of thecontinuing chain of Lesser Antilles that comes down from the northand curves westw ard all the w ay to the ABC Islands. Venezuela has72 island possessions along its northern co ast, tho ugh most areundeveloped or uninhabited.

H ow ever, few guidebo oks on the C aribbean include Margarita I sland,either because they consider it part of South America or because itsvacation ambiance is geared toward Latin Americans rather than NorthAmericans. It was a resort for Venezuelans long before more moderntourist development took hold. Today, though, Margarita Islandwelcomes a good number of bargain-hunting American and Europeantourists who come on all-inclusive packages.

Margarita Island is almost two separate islands, linked by a long,narrow isthmus. It is a large island, and its 104 miles of shoreline anddozens of fine beaches att ract bo th Venezuelan and foreign visitors. B utit also has mountainous areas, valleys, deserts, and green spaces. Twonational parks preserve this natural landscape. Two Spanish forts addhistoric interest. Though it is already a substantial tourist island, thepace of development is quickening, and new resorts are being built.But M argarita I sland still bo asts fine colonial architecture, smallvillages, and a rural atmosphere in places.

Those visiting Margarita Island can use it as a springboard for day trips

into the interior of Venezuela. D aily charter flight t ours operate overAngel Falls (the highest waterfall in the world) and to CanaimaNational Park, Los Roques National Park (a group of islands off thecoast), and the Orinoco River Delta.

Visitors will find a South American flavor added to Margarita Island’scuisine, t hough West Ind ian, C ontinental, fast-food, and mo st otherchoices are easy to find. A casino and plenty of nightlife are available.You should choose carefully among the dozens of hotel choices, not allof w hich meet American standards. M ore than an adequate number ofrooms across the island are available to visitors. Prices for goods are

partly in line with South American rather than Caribbean levels, so visi-tors will find savings in a number of areas.

Venezuela has doz ens of ot her islands along its C aribbean coast, mo stof which are uninhabited. The most well known are Los RoquesIslands, a national park that is a paradise for nature travelers and divers.

For More InformationINATU R (Venezuela Tourism Board )Torre Oeste, Piso 36Parque Central, Avenida LecunaCaracas, VenezuelaPhone: (011) 58-212-576-4193/5138/8194/ 9032Fax: (011) 58-212-576-1193E-mail: promocionymercadeoinatur@yahoo. comWeb sites: www.embavenez-us.org (embassy of Venezuela)www.ecoalianza.com (nonprofit consortium)www.margarita-island.comww w.venezuelatuya.com (private company)ww w.venezuelanadventures.com (private company and convention andvisitors bureau for Venezuela)

Guyana

Guyana (gy AN uh ) is both West Indian and South American at thesame time. It is close to the Caribbean basin and yet part of the South

American continent, lying on Venezuela’s eastern border. Most ofGuyana’s traditions reflect the history of the Caribbean, yet its sightsand highlights suggest the Amazonian rain forest to the south. TheDutch, French, and British vied for power here for more than acentury, and all of them left a strong influence. B ut G uyana is alsoan ethnically diverse society of Africans, Chinese, Portuguese,Amerindians, and E ast Indian H indus and M uslims.

G uyana’ s interior is suited for true adventurers, naturalists, and thoselooking for a less-traditional destination. G uyana’s wo nders are itsjungles of w ild b eauty, t he rugg ed savannahs of its interior, and

magnificent wat erfalls that rival the world’s mo st famous. Those willingto make the effor t t o explore G uyana will find mountainous scenery,hidden valleys, and wildlife; it is a hidden gem that ecotourists havebarely discovered.

The British gained final control in the early 1800s, naming the landBritish G uiana. Although G uyana achieved independence in 1966,Britain’s legacy lives on. Even today, some of the best cricket players inthe world are from Guyana (they play on the West Indian team, alongwith Jamaicans and Barbadians), unlike the sporting traditions of therest of South America, such as soccer.

Guyana’s capital, Georgetown, is an architectural wonder. It displays itsVictorian and European past in its large wooden churches and otherpublic buildings, while at the same time resembling a river city in theBrazilian jungle. Out side of G eorgetow n and away from the coast,vehicular travel is usually on dirt roads, while numerous boats andcanoes supply transportation to the interior. Travelers in more of ahurry can take plane tours or charter planes to small landing strips inthe interior.

GeorgetownGeorgetown is the chief town and port as well as the capital ofG uyana. The city is loaded with charact er. Even novice travelers can seeits Dutch and British influences, altho ugh usually only seasoned travel-ers visit G eorgetow n. M uch of t he fertile land near the ocean is below sea level; this land w as “ reclaimed” from t he sea by t he building of sea-walls, which still protect the city today. Many houses are built on stilts.

Fast FactsLand Area83,000 square miles

Population

750,000

Capital

Georgetown

Languages

English

Time Zone

UTC -3 or EST + 2. It does not observedaylight-saving time.

Drive on

Currency

Guyana dollar

Electr ic i ty

Ask each hotel what type of electrical

current it has.

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N ote: Am erican citizens

need a passport to

travel to G uyana. All

clients, especially those

going into the interior,should consult w ith

their physicians about

taking preventive

m alaria m edication.

Those who admire architecture will enjoy G eorgeto wn’ s Victorianchurches and public buildings. St. George’s Cathedral is reputed to bethe tallest timber church in the world, while the High Court and City

Hall buildings d isplay various do rmers, steep roo fs, spires, gab les, andwrought-iron crenellations. The Hindu Temple, Queenstown

Mosque, and Parliament Buildingdisplay myriad other styles. Mosttravelers also want to visit the Botanical Gardensand the Zoo, whichgive them a sense of G uyana’s flora and fauna. Travelers staying inG eorgetown should avoid w alking at night and should take taxis instead,for safety reasons.

G eorgetow n can also be used as a base for trips into the interior.

The InteriorWithout question, Guyana’s most famous sight is mighty Kaieteur

(ky CH OOR ) Falls. Many visitors feel that it rivals Iguaçú Falls on theArgentina/Brazil border, thousands of miles to the south. A footballfield wide and more than five times higher than Niagara, Kaieteur ranksamong the greatest waterfalls in the wo rld. H ow ever, it is virtuallyunknown, even among most travel industry professionals.

Full-day tours to Kaieteur are easily arranged from Georgetown. Aflight to a landing field in Kaieteur National P ark allows visitors abouttwo and a half hours to explore the falls and experience the flora andfauna of the park. This is usually followed by a flight to Orinduik

(ORE in duke ) Falls for lunch. While Kaieteur is in the heart of the

tropical forest, Orinduik is at a spot where the rain forest suddenlygives way to wide expanses of rolling savannah. I t co nsists of do zens ofsmall cascades over steps and terraces on a river that forms the borderbetween Guyana and Brazil. There is time to explore Orinduik, thoughother options such as visiting Amerindian villages in the savannah, canbe arranged.

For mo st travelers, a trip to G uyana is an adventure in itself. H ow ever,anyone can manage a stay in Georgetown and the trip to Kaieteur andOrinduik Falls. Those interested in more adventure can easily find it.Only two percent of Guyana is inhabited, and some of the rest of the

land has barely been touched by man. Kaieteur can be reached on afour-day overland journey by truck and canoe, and on foot. Lodgesdeep in the jungle take guests on wildlife treks to see ocelots, tapirs,giant otters, giant anteaters, monkeys, birds, numerous other forms ofwildlife, and more waterfalls. Ranches on the Rupununi Savannah

serve the same function and visits to Amerindian villages can bearranged as well.

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G uyana’s interior is so

beautiful and w as once

so rem ote that it w as an

inspiration for Arthur

C onan D oyle’s Lost

World .

G uyana’s rivers harbor

the arapaim a, the

largest freshw ater fish

in the w orld. Arapaim a

can reach m ore than

300 pounds in w eight.

Flight service from Miami to Georgetown usually connects in Port-of-Spain, Trinidad, though there are also flights from Barbados andoccasionally other islands. The largest hotel in G eorgetown has 136rooms; two or three others are in the 50- to 100-room range, andthere are numerous other smaller ones. Lodges, ranches, and guest-

houses in the interior have from two to ten rooms.

For More InformationG uyana Ministry o f Trade, Tourism, and Industry (public sector)229 South R oadG eorgetown, G uyanaPhone: (011) 592-22-56710Fax: (011) 592-22-54310

Tourism and H ospitality Associat ion of G uyana (private sector)

157 Waterloo StreetG eorgetown, G uyanaPhone: (011) 592-22-50807Fax: (011) 592-22-50817E-mail: tag@solutions2000.netWeb site: www.interknow ledge.com/ guyanawww.exploreguyana.com

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O nce there w ere three

G uianas: B ritish G uiana

(now G uyana); D utch

G uiana (now

Surinam e); and French

G uiana, w hich is still a

French overseas

departm ent. H ow ever,

people still refer to theentire area as “the

G uianas.”“G uiana”is an

Am erindian w ord

m eaning “land of m any

w aters.”

Suriname

The cross-cultural influences in the nations of the Caribbean aremagnified many times in Suriname (SOOR uh nahm ), which is roughly

the size of Wisconsin. H ere, within the space of a few days, to urists canexperience fragments of the culture of C hina, Africa, I ndonesia, India,the Netherlands, Amerindians, and Brazil. Their languages are pre-served. West African tribal practices still exist in almost a primitive state,in a countryside not much different from the African homeland ofescaped slaves of tw o centuries ago. Mo st major religions of t he wo rldare represented. C reole processions, H indu wedding s, and Javanese cer-emonial dances are just a small sampling o f this diversity, while D utchinfluence remains quite strong.

Like its neighbo rs in the G uianas and in the C aribbean, Suriname’s

land w as fought over by Euro pean powers. What eventually becameDutch Guiana (or Dutch Guyana) was first settled by the French, latertaken by the British, and finally controlled by the D utch. Surinameachieved full independence in 1975. I t lies on the Atlant ic with G uyanato t he west, French G uiana (or French Guyana) to t he east, and Braz ilto the south.

Except for Paramaribo and its environs, Suriname is sparsely populated;but it is in these rough rain forests and jungles that the country’s great-est attractions lie. Its well-conserved nature parks and reserves can trulybe called “ hidden gems,” lying unspoiled, yet relatively accessible to

North American nature lovers who have a sense of adventure and arewilling to forgo some of the comforts of home. Much less well knownthan the Amazonian rain forests, Suriname’s rain forests are almostuninhabited and therefore have been immune from a good deal of thehuman encroachment, poaching, and forest clearance prevalent else-where. Even today, many of the national parks can only be seen viaexpeditions and carefully planned trips, usually by those with a scientificpurpose rather than by tourists. There are few accommodations in thisSouth American countryside except for the nature areas run by STINA-SU (the Foundat ion for Nature Preservation in Suriname) and N. V.Mets, a leading tour operator. Otherwise, accommodations may be

poor, and travelers often must bring in needed supplies.

H ow ever, some of the parks are open and accessible to the public, andSTIN ASU coordinates both day and overnight trips. These are alsoavailable through t our operators that w ork with STINASU . The wealthof wildlife and plant life in these areas is astonishing. Scientists estimatethat countless thousands of species exist that have yet to be discoveredand d ocumented.

Fast FactsLand Area63,675 square miles

Population

450,000

Capital

Paramaribo

Languages

Dutch, Surinamerse (Sranan Tongo),

Javanese, Hindi, various tribal

languages; English is widely spoken.

Time Zone

UTC -3 or EST + 2. It does not observe

daylight-saving time.

Drive on

Currency

Suriname guilder

Electr ic i ty

Plug adapters may be needed in someplaces.

Suriname’s climate is warm to hot year-round but is usually moderatedby constant sea breezes. The driest seasons are mid-February to mid-April and mid-August t o early D ecember. O ther times can be quiterainy, but May, June, and July are the best months to see turtle nestings.

ParamariboAlmost 90 percent of the country’s population, or 250,000 people, livesin Paramaribo (pair uh MA I R uh boh ) and its outskirts or alongSuriname’s coast. Mo st travelers will see Fort Zeelandiaand the gov-ernment buildings built in colonial style, such as the PresidentialPalace, the Parliament Building, and Independence Square. A walkthrough Palm Gardens, the city parks, and the streets, with their colo-nial churches and historic wooden architecture, will give visitors a feelfor the city. A drive past the villas along the Suriname River and somepeople-watching or shopping at the Central Market will complete a day

of sightseeing in Paramaribo or “ Parbo ,” its nickname.

The countr y’s ethnic diversity affords a wealth o f eating choices in thecapital, from Javanese nasi goreng and r i jstt afel to Creole, Chinese, EastIndian, Korean, and D utch dishes. From Paramaribo, visitors can takeexcursions to nature reserves and t o villages where African, H industani,and Indonesian customs are still practiced.

Nature Areas

Paramaribo can be used as a base for trips into Suriname’s ecologicallyfascinating interior and coastal areas. D ay tours or long er overnighttrips with visitors sleeping on hammocks in open huts, are available.D ay to urs from the capital include river cruises on the Suriname River,a trip by dugout canoe to a Maroon village, and a day at Colakreek,

where visitors can swim in the refreshing cola-colored waters for whichit is named. Suriname is known for rafting in many places in the interi-or because of its rapids.

Brownsberg Nature Reserveis the most-visited park (although thisdistinction hardly makes it crowded). Brownsberg, which has been

configured for easy access by visitors, is a pleasure for nature lovers.This mountaintop rain forest features spectacular vistas of nature’shandiwo rk. H ere howler monkeys, deer, ag out ies, armadillos, andsometimes jaguars, pumas, and ocelots may be spotted on the slopes.The park has more than 600 species of birds, including macaws and thecolorful w ide-billed to ucan. B rownsberg has some o f the finest trails inall of South America, all laid out by the park service. They can be hiked

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲▲

N ote: Am erican citizens

need both a passport

and a visa to travel to

Surinam e. C ontact the

Surinam e Em bassy in

W ashington or the

C onsulate G eneral in

M iam i. All clients,

especially those going

into the interior, should

consult w ith their

physicians about takingm edication to prevent

m alaria.

In 1667, the B ritish

w ere in control of

Surinam e and the

D utch w ere in control

of M anhattan, N ew

York. The B ritish

exchanged S urinam e

w ith the D utch for

M anhattan.

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▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ Did you know?

independently or on guided walks. Visitors who stay the night in thepark’s cabins must bring in and prepare their own food. All othernecessities for cooking and living are provided. Access to the reserve isby road (about two hours from P aramaribo). O rganized to urs, carrentals, and buses arrive at a nearby town; from there, visitors can make

arrangements to get to the park.

The Wia Wia Reserveis along the coast in an area of mangroveswamps. It offers a look at the nesting grounds for leatherback turtlesand green turtles, as well as numerous species of exotic and huge birdssuch as storks, wild ibis, flamingos, and spoonbills. Access is by acombination of car and boat rides.

A third nature area accessible to the public is the Raleigh Falls/Volsberg Reserve, which features the stunning Raleigh Falls as well asrapids, river islands, orchid gardens, and an abundance of wildlife.G ranite outcro ppings to wer 400 feet over the rain forest in places. Thereserve features marked trails and two lodges offering overnight accom-modat ions (visitors must b ring their own fo od). Lod ges here, and in theother reserves mentioned, have generator electricity for a set number ofhours each night. Raleigh Falls/Volsberg Reserve is accessible by air; orvisitors can take a two-day overland journey by vehicle and canoe.

Two-day tours include stops at various other nature reserves in the eastof the country, plus a trip to Galibi Beach, reached by boat fromAlbina, where giant sea turtles come ashore at night during nestingseason and where there is a Carib village. Four- and five-day tours andone eight-day tour begin with flights on small aircraft that go deeper

into the interior. These tours visit remote Amerindian and Maroonsettlements. Travel also involves dugout canoes, boats over rapids, and,in some cases, strenuous hikes. Accommodations are in bungalows withbeds and mosquito netting; all meals are included. Other naturereserves are mostly for individuals, groups, or expeditions that are self-sufficient, as there are no accommodations or services. Prices for thesetours are moderate.

Scheduled flights from Miami to Paramaribo usually connect throughone of the Dutch islands in the Caribbean, such as Curaçao. Otherflights operate from Trinidad and Barbados. A few upscale hotels, such

as the H ot el Krasnapolsky, are located in the capital and a co uple ofot her cities. The H ot el Torarica in Paramaribo has meeting facilities, apool, and a casino. Outside of the capital, the coastal towns, and thenature reserves mentioned here, there are few lodgings—they are usual-ly in guesthouses, cottages, and bungalows where guests bring theirown food and do their own cooking; in many cases they must bringtheir own hammocks, too.

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In 1998 an area of

6,000 square m iles

w as declared the

Central Surinam e

Nature Reserve. It is

the largest protected

tropical forest area in

the w orld.

For More InformationSuriname Tourism I nformat ion O fficeDr. J. F. Nassylaan 2, Box 656Paramaribo, SurinamePhone: (011) 597-410-357Fax: (011) 597-477-786E-mail: stsur@sr.netWeb site: www.surinfo.org

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▲ Did you know?

Visiting w ildlife in South

Am erica is different

from safaris in the

savannahs of Africa,

w here Land R overs

encircle sleeping lions

or creep up on herds of

elephants. In the South

Am erican jungles, it is

m ore difficult to see

the anim als, and they

tend to be shy.

Patience is needed.

H ow ever, Surinam e,

w ith its w ealth of fauna,

is as richly rew arding

as any South A m erican

country in term s of

nature and ecotourism .

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B irdsong com petitions

m ight be called

Surinam e’s national

hobby. People catch

birds and train them

specially to sing. EverySunday they go to the

park and com pete to

see w hich bird sings

the best and the

longest.

In the index, the first number after an

entry refers to the part of the course and

the second numbers refer to the page

numbers.

I ta li cs i nd icates a hotel or resor t.

Abacos, 1.79, 1.83-84

ABC Islands, 1.9, 3.14-33

accessibility, 1.10

accommodations, 1.17-20

air service, 1.12

Alexander H amilton H ouse, 2.50

A lmond Beach Vi ll age, 2.123

altitude, 1.5

Altun H a, 3.57

amber, 1.148

Ambergris Caye, 3. 57

Andromeda Gardens, 2.124

Andros, 1.79, 1.86

Anegada, 1.182

Anguilla, 1.8, 2.2-9

Anse Chastenet, 2.114

Antigua and Barbuda, 1.8, 2.56-65Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, 2.62

Antilles, 1.3

Appleton Estate Express, 1.119

Aquasol Theme P ark, 1.119

Arbib Nat ure and H eritag e Trail, 2.128

Arecibo Observatory, 1.158

A r iel Sands, 1.69

Arikok Nat ional P ark, 3.20

A ruba Sonesta Beach Resort, 3.20

Aruba, 1.9, 3.18-25

Asa Wri ght N atu re Cent re and L odge,

A tlan ti s, 1.81

Bacardi Rum Distillery, 1.155

Bahamas, 1.3, 1.7, 1.76-93

Barbados, 1.9, 2.120-129

Basseterre, 2. 47

Basse-Terre, 2.79-80

Baths of Virgin G orda, 1.181

Bay I slands of H onduras, 1.9, 3.60-61

Bay Street, 1.82

beaches, 1.5, 1.11

Beef Island, 1.181

Belize City, 3.56-57

Belize, 1.9, 1.51, 3.55-59

Belmopan, 3.57

Bequia, 2.135

Bermuda, 1.3, 1.7, 1.64-75

Berry Islands, 1.87

Bimini, 1.79, 1.86

Bioluminescent Bay, 1.157

Bi ras Cr eek, 1.182

Birdcage, 1.69

Bi tt er End Yacht Club, 1.182

blue glass beads, 2.39

Blue H ole National Park, 3.57

Blue Mo untains, 1.122

Bluebear d’ s Cast le, 1.170

Boca Chica, 1.143

Boiling Lake, 2.90

Bonaire, 1.9, 3.27-33

Bonbini Festival, 3.21

Boscobel Beach, 1.120

Bo tanical G ardens, 2.133-134Breezes, 1.81, 1.119

Bridgetown, 2.123

Brimstone H ill, 2.48

British Virgin I slands, 1.8 , 1.178-185

British West Indies, 1.34

Brownsberg Nature Reserve, 3.74

Buccaneer I nn , 1.172

Buck Island Reef National Monument,

C abarete, 1.144

C able Beach, 1.81Cabrits National Park, 2.91

Calabash Sui tes, 2.144

camping, 1.19, 1.171, 2.81

C ancún, 1.9, 3.49-51

Caneel Bay, 1.171

Canouan, 2.135

Cap Haitian, 1.133

Cap Julu ca, 3.6

I ndex

car rentals, 1.16

Caracas, 1.9-17, 3.67

Carbet Falls, 2.80

Carenage Bay Beach and Golf C lu b,

C arenage, 2.123, 2.143

Carib Indian Territory, 2.87, 2.91Caribbean National Forest, 1.156

Caribbean terms, 1.3

Carnival in Trinidad, 3.7, 3.10

C aroni Bird Sanctuary, 3.6

C arriacou, 2.145

Cartagena, 1.9, 3.65

Casa de Campo, 1.143

Casals Festival, 1.161

casinos, 1.73, 1.80-81, 1.97, 1.100,

1.135, 1.143, 1.159, 1.162, 1.172,

2.17, 2.49, 2.53, 2.63, 2.83, 2.105,

2.138, 3.22, 3.31, 3.37, 3.39, 3.66,

3.68Castries, 2.109, 2.111-112

Cat Island, 1.87

Caye Caulker, 3.57

Cayman Brac, 1.108

Cayman Islands, 1.7, 1.104-113

C entral America, 3.54-63

Chaguaramas Peninsula, 3.7

C harlestow n, 2.50

Charlotte Amalie, 1.169

charters, 1.12-15

Chichén Itzá, 3.51

Christiansted, 1.172

Christoffel National Park, 3.37Ci nnamon Bay Campground, 1.171

Citadelle, 1.131, 1.133

climate an d seasons, 1.2

Cloisters, 1.82

clothing optional beaches, 1.71, 1.117,

1.119, 2.13, 3.30

Cl ub Med, 1.19, 1.81, 1.87, 1.97, 1.133

Coccoloba Valt ur , 2.6

C ockburn Town, 1.96, 1.98

C ockpit C ountry, 1.115, 1.122

Cockscomb Jaguar Preserve, 3.58

Coco Poin t L odge, 2.61

Co drington, 2.60

Colombia, S.A., 3.64-66

Co ndado B each, 1.153

C orossol, 2.23

cottage colonies, 1.70-71

Couples, 1.120

Cozumel, 1.9, 3.51

Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, 3.57

Cruz Bay, 1.170

Crystal Caves, 1.69

C uba, 1.7, 1.9, 3.44-47

C ulebra, 1.156, 1.158

culture, 1.30-40

C uraçao, 1.9, 3.34-41

Dangriga, 3.58

Diamant, 2.102

disabilities travel, 1.52-53

dive destinations, 1.47, 1.98, 1.109,

1.183, 2.32, 2.39, 2.69, 2.81, 2.93,

2.145, 3.7, 3.27, 3.51-52, 3.57, 3.58,

D ivi Flami ngo Beach Resor t, 3.31

Doctor’s Cave Beach, 1.119

Dolphin Experience, 1.82, 1.88

D ominica, 1.5, 1.8, 1.28, 1.51, 2.86-97

Dominican Republic, 1.7, 1.138-149Dorado Beach, 1.157

D unn’s R iver Falls, 1. 119-120

D utch West I ndies, 1.33-34

ecotourism, 1.49-50, 1.115, 1.173,

2.40, 2.87, 2.92, 2.128, 3.8, 3.30,

3.58, 3.71, 3.73

Eden Brown Estate, 2.50

El Convento, 1.160

El M omo, 2.31

El Morro, 1.155

El R ancho, 1.132 El Yunque, 1.156

Elbow Beach Hotel, 1.69

Eleuthera, 1.79, 1.84-85

Emerald Isle, 2.67, 2.75

Eng lish H arbour, 2.58-59

Exumas, 1.79, 1.85-86

Fajardo, 1.156

Family Islands, 1.78

family travel, 1-53

Fern G ully, 1.120

Fern H il l C lub, 2.19

ferries, 1.15, 1.153-154, 2.30, 2.38,

Firefly, 1.120

Flamingo Sanctuary, 3.28

Floating Market, 3.36

Fort Amsterdam, 3.36

Fort Charlotte, 1.82, 2.112, 2.134

For t Young H otel, 2.91

Fort -de-France, 2. 101-102

Four Seasons Resort , 2.51

Frederiksted, 1.172

Freeport/Lucaya, 1.28, 1.78, 1.80-81

French West Indies, 1.32-33

G arden of the G roves, 1.81

gay travel, 1.52

G eorge Town, C aymans, 1.107, 1.111

Georgetown, Guyana, 3.70-71

G ibbs H ill Lighthouse, 1.68

G lass Window, 1.85

Golden Lemon I nn and Vi ll as, 2.47

G oldeneye, 1.120

G oldenrock, 2.37-42

golf, 1.49-50, 1.70, 1.80, 1.109, 1.122,

1.141, 1.143, 1.157, 1.159, 2.51,

2.103, 2.123G osier, 2.78

Governor’s Harbor, 1.85

G rand Anse Beach, 2.144

Grand Case, 2.14

Grand Cayman, 1.107-108

Grand Etang National Park, 2.144

Grand Li do, 1.118

G rand Turk, 1.97

G rande Anse des Salines, M artinique,

G rande Anse, G uadeloupe, 2.80

G rande-Terre, 2.77-78

G reater Ant illes, 1.3Greenwood, 1.118

G renada, 1.9, 2.140-149

Grenada Grand, 2.144

Grott o Bay Beach Hotel, 1.69

G uadeloupe, 1.8, 2.74-85

guaguas, 1.153-154

G uanacaste Park, 3.57

Guanahani , 2.23

Guanaja, 3.60

G ustavia, 2.23

G uyana, 3.70-72

H acienda Buena Vi sta, 1.157

H aiti, 1.7, 1.51, 1.128-137

Half Moon Bay, 2.64

H ami lt on Pri ncess H otel, 1.69

Hamilton, 1.69

H arrison’s Cave, 2.124

Havana, 3.46

H aystack H ill, 3.20

health and safety, 1.22-24

H .E.A .R.T, 1.126

H edoni sm, 1.118-119

H ell, 1.107

H ell’s Gate H ill, 2.31

H eritage Passport, 1.70hiking, 1.51, 1.108, 1.111, 1.145 2.38,

2.40, 2.48, 2.69, 2.81, 2.87, 2.90,

2.103, 2.144

histo ry, 1.27-30

H og I sland, 1.81

H onen Dalim, 2.38

H oratio Nelson M useum, 2.50

H orny Toad, 2.15

H orseshoe Bay B each, 1.68

H ostel ler ie des Tr ois Forces, 2.26

H otel Car l Gustaf , 2.23

H otel K rasnapolsky, 3.75

H otel Tora r i ca, 3.75 hurricane season, 1.4

H yatt Dorado Beach and H yatt Regency

Cerr omar Beach, 1.157

H yatt Regency A ruba, 3.20

H yat t R egency St. Lucia, 2.113

Iles des Saintes, 2.80

immigration and customs, 1.20-22

Inagua Islands, 1.87-88

I nn s of N evis, 2.51

insurance, 1.25-26

International Bazaar, 1.80Introduction, 1.1

Iron Market, 1.132

Isla Cabritos, 1.148

Isla Mujeres, 3.50

Isla Verde, 1.153

Jack Tar Vi ll age, 2.49

Jacmel, 1.131, 1.133

Jalousie H i lt on R esor t, 2.113

Jamaica, 1.7, 1-19, 1.51, 1.114-127

Jamaica Gr ande, 1.120

jet lag, 1.13

Jost Van Dyke, 1.182

Junkanoo, 1.89

K Club, 2.61

Kaieteur Falls, 3.71

Kingston, 1.121-122

Kingstown, 2.133-134

Kralendijk, 3.28

K urá H ulanda, 3.37

La Cabana A ll -Sui te Resor t and Casino,

3.20 La Cohoba, 2.80

La Désirade, 2.80

La Fête des Cuisinières, 2.82

La Romana, 1.143

La Samana, 2.15

La Source, 2.144

Labadie, 1.131, 1.135

Lac Bay Resor t, 3.31

language, 1.34

latitude, 1.4

Le Spor t , 2.113

Le Toiny, 2.23

Leeward Islands, 1.3, 1.8, 3.1Lesser Antilles, 1.3

Leyri tz Plan tati on, 2.105

Little Cayman, 1.109

Li ttl e D ix Bay, 1.182

local transportation, 1.15

Long Island, 1.87

Luq uillo B each, 1.156

Magen’s Bay, 1.170

Magnificent Seven, 3.5

Maho Bay Campground, 1.171

Maho Beach H otel & Casino, 2.15 mail boats, 1.79

Malli ouhana H otel, 2.6

Margarita I sland, 1.9, 3.68

Marie-G alante, 2.80

Marigot, 2.14

Mar r iott Frenchman ’s Reef, 1.170

Marsh H arbour, 1.83

Martinique, 1.8, 2.98-107

Mar y’s Boon, 2.15

Mayagüez, 1.157

Mayreau, 2.136

Mérida, 3.49

Mexico, 3.48-53

Mikvé Israel-Emanua l Synagog ue, 3.36

Mona, 1.164

money matters, 1.24-25

Mont Pelée, 2.103

Montana, 1.133

Mont ego B ay, 1.118-119

Mont serrat, 1.8, 1.51, 2.66-71

Moo rings, 1.181

mopeds, 1.67

Morne de Sauteur, 2.141

Morne D iablotin Nat ional Park, 2.96

Morne Fortune, 2.112

Morne Trois Pitons National Park, 2.90

Mount Liamuiga, 2.48Mount Scenery, 2.31

Musée Gauguin, 2.103

Museum of C ontemporary Puerto R ican

Art, 1.155

Mustique, 2.135

Nassau, 1.76, 1.81-83

Natural Bridge, 3.20

Negril, 1.117-118

Nelson’s Dockyard, 2.59

Netherlands Antilles, 1.33-34

Ocean C lu b, 1.81, 1.97

Ocho Rios, 1.119-120

Old Gin H ouse, 2.42

Olof fson, 1.132

Oranjestad, Aruba, 3.19-20

Oranjestad, St. Eustatius, 2.38

Orient Beach, 2.14

Ott ley’s Plan tat i on, 3.49

Out Islands, 1.78

Palancar Reef, 3.51-52Palm Island, 2.136

Palm I slan d Beach Cl ub, 2.136

Paradise Island, 1.78, 1.81-83

paradores, 1.153, 1.160

Paramaribo, 3.73-74

Parc National, 2.79

Parr ot Cay, 1.100

Pasanggrahan Royal I nn , 2.15

Peter I sland R esor t and Yacht Clu b,

Peter Island, 1.182

Peti t St. Vi ncent Resor t, 2.136

Petite Martinique, 2.145

Petrified Savannah Forest, 2.102

Philipsburg, 2.13

physical features, 1.5-6

Pin e Cay, 1.100

Pinney’s Beach, 2.50

Pirates Week, 1.110

Pitch Lake at La Brea, 3.6

Pitons, 2.109, 2.112-113

Placencia Peninsula, 3. 58

Plantat ion Inn, 1.120

Playa del Carmen, 3.51

Plaza Resor t, 3.29

Plymouth, 2.68-69

Point-à-Pitre, 2.77Pointe du Bout/Trois Îlets, 2.102

Ponce, 1.157

Po rt Antonio, 1.120-121

Po rt o f Spain, 3.5-6

Port Royal, 1.121

Port-au-Prince, 1.131-132

Portsmouth, 2.91

Providenciales, 1.96-97

publiques, 1.131

Puerto Plata, 1.144

Puerto Rico, 1.7, 1.150-165

Punta Cana, 1.143-144

Queen Emma B ridge, 3.36

Queen Juliana Bridge, 3.36

Queen’ s Gar dens, 2.31

Queen’s Park Savannah, 3.5

Queen’s Staircase, 1.82

Quill, The, 2.38

rafting, 1.121, 1.125

Railway Trail, 1.70

Rastafarians, 1.122-123

Rawli ns Plantat ion, 2.49 reggae, 1.122

Rendezvous Month, 1.72

Rendezvous, 2.113

Rex Granadian , 2.144

Rio C amuy Cave Park, 1.158

R i tz Car lt on I sla Verde, 1.153

R it z Car lton Rose H all, 1.119

R i tz Car lt on St. Thomas, 1.170

Roatán, 3.60

Rock C liff, 1.118

Rose H all Plantation, 1.118

Roseau, 2.89

Round H il l, 1.119 Royal Naval D ockyard, 1.68

Saba, 1.5, 1-8, 2.28-35

Saba Marine Park, 2.31, 2.32

Sage Mountain Nat ional Park, 1.181

sailing, 1.48, 1.50, 1-69, 1.176, 1.182,

2.62, 2.138, 2.146

St-Barthélemy (St. Barts), 1.8, 2.20-27

St. Croix, 1.171-172

St. Eustatius (Statia), 1.8, 2.36-43

St. George’s, Bermuda, 1.69

St. George’s, Grenada, 2.143

St. Jean, 2.23

St. Jo hn, 1.170-171St. John’s Cathedral, 2.59

St. Kitts and Nevis, 1.8, 2.44-55

St. Lucia, 1.8, 1.51, 2.108-119

St-Martin/Sint M aarten, 1.8, 2.10-19

St-Pierre, 2.99, 2.103

St. Thomas, 1.167-170

St. Vincent and the G renadines, 1.9,

1.28, 2.130-139

Salt C ay, 1.96, 1.98

Salt Pans, 3.28

Sam Lord’s Castl e, 2.124

San Andrés Island, 3.66

San Blas Islands, 1.9, 3.62San Juan, 1.153-155

San Pedro, 3.57

San Salvador, 1.87

Sandal s, 1.19, 1.81, 1.97, 1.118-119,

2.60, 2.113

Sandy Lane, 2.123

Sans Souci Palace, 1.131, 1.133

Sans Souci, Jamai ca, 1.120

Santo Domingo, 1.141-142

Scarborough, 3.7

scuba, 1.47, 1.109

seasons, 1.2-5

Seven Mile B each, Aruba, 3. 19-20Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman,

Seven Mile Beach, N egril, 1. 117

Shaw P ark Gardens, 1.120

shopping, 1.40-41

snorkeling, 1.46-47

Sonesta Beach, 1.68

Sorobon, 3.31

Sosúa, 1.144

Southampton Pr incess, 1.68

Soufrière Volcano, 2.67, 2.68, 2.79,

2.112, 2.132

Spanish Tow n, 1.181Spanish-speaking C aribbean, 1.33

spas, 1.53

Speightstown, 2.123

Spice Island, 2. 145

Spice I sland Beach Resort , 2.144

sportfishing, 1.49

sports, 1.38, 1.55

spring break, 1.72-73

steel-drum music, 3.9-10

Stingray City, 1.109

Straw Market, 1.82

submarine excursions, 1.109, 1.170

Sunset Wat ers Beach Resort Curaçao, 3.37

Superclubs, 1.19

Suriname, 3.73-76Swept Away, 1.118

tap-tap, 1.131

taxis, 1. 15

telephoning, 1.27

temperatures, 1.2-3

tennis, 1.49-50

The Bottom, 2.30, 2.31

Tibes Indian Ceremonial Center, 1.157

tipping, 1.25

Tongue of the Ocean (TOTO), 1.86

Tort ola, 1 .180-182tour packages, 1.44-46

Treasure Cay, 1.83

Tr ee House, 1.118

Tr i dent Vi ll as, 1.121

Trinidad and Tobago, 1.9, 1.51, 3.2-13

Trini dad H ilton, 3.6

Tropic of Cancer, 1.4

Tr yall, 1.119

Tulum, 3.50

Turks and C aicos, 1.7, 1. 94-101

Turtle Farm, 1.107

UU .S. Virgin Islands, 1.7-8, 1.166-177

U nderw ater Explorers Society

(UN EXSO), 1.88

U NESC O World H eritage Sites, 1.133,

1.142, 1.154, 1.156, 2.48, 2.87, 3.38,

U nion Island, 2.136

U tila, 3.60

Valley of D esolation, 2.90

Varadero Beach, 3.46

Venezuela, 3.67-69Vieques, 1.156, 1.158-159

Vi l la Créole, 1.133

Virgin G orda, 1.180-182

Virgin Islands National Park, 1.170

voodoo, 1.135

Walker’s Cay, 1.84

Wathey Sq uare, 2.13

websites, 1. 54

wedd ings, ho neymoons, ann iversaries,

1.51-52, 1.125

West Indies, 1.3Whi te H ouse, 2.49

Wia Wia Reserve, 3.75

Wil lar d’s, 2.31

Willemstad, 3.36

windsurfing, 1.48, 1.141, 1.144, 2.103,

2.125, 3.21

Windward Islands, 1.3, 1.8, 2.73

Windward side, 2. 31

Wyndham El C onqu istador Resor t, 1.156

Xel-H a, 3.50

Young I slan d, 2.134

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