28 Serging Skills Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co.,...

28Serging Skills

Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.

Objective

Summarize how the serger functions.

How the Serger Functions

• Sergers provide a factory-like finish to home-sewn garments

• Also called overlock or overedge machines

• In one step, sergers – join two layers of fabric to form a seam – trim extra seam allowance– and overcast fabric edges

continued

• Sergers cannot be used for all sewing tasks

• Most sergers only stitch on fabric edges and not inside areas

continued

• Newer machines have stitches similar to regular sewing machine stitches but cannot embroider, make buttonholes, or insert zippers

• Most home sewers use the serger to supplement—not replace—a conventional sewing machine

continued

• Advantages of using a serger– Works well on fabrics from lightweight

chiffon to heavyweight denim, as well as knit and woven fabrics

– Make doing hems and ruffles quick and easy– Give a professional seam finish to garments

such as unlined jackets, curtains, place mats, and other items

continued

• A serger uses two, three, four, or five cones of thread depending on the model

• It uses one, two, or even three needles

• Instead of bobbins, it has upper and lower loopers that form the stitch

continued

• A serger loops thread around the needle thread, encasing the fabric edge (a sewing machine creates stitches by interlocking bobbin and needle threads)

• Looper threads do not penetrate the fabric

• The needles and loopers form stitches over the fabric edge as it passes through

• During stitching, knife blades trim the seam allowances

continued

• A serger performs many functions at the same time to create the stitches– As you feed fabric into the machine, it

reaches the feed dogs first– As fabric moves along, the knives trim

the edge– Then loopers and needles form the stitches

on the fabric– Fabric then feeds off the stitch finger behind

the needlecontinued

• A serger runs much faster than a conventional sewing machine

• Using a serger can reduce the sewing time of a project by as much as half

Why does using a serger reduce the time needed to sew a garment?

Think About It

Objective

Identify serger machine parts and basic serger stitches.

Serger Machine Parts

• Although there are a variety of types and models of sergers, they have many similarities

• The instruction manual for a serger identifies the parts of the machine and the function of each

Basic Serger Stitches

• Serger stitches vary with machine make and model

• Aside from common stitches, sergers can produce decorative stitches for an interesting look and extra emphasis

Overedge Stitch

• Overedge stitch is used solely as an edge finish on garments

• Uses one needle and one looper

• Can prevent raveling in sheer and lightweight fabrics

• Least bulky stitch

Flatlock Stitch

• Flatlock stitch uses one needle and one looper to join a seam; a three-thread stitch uses two loopers

• Used in sportswear or lingerie elastic application

• Seam is visible from right side of garment

Rolled Edge Stitch

• Rolled edge stitch creates a rolled hem; seaming for sheers, laces, or silk

• Use to stitch narrow rolled hems to finish scarves, ruffles, etc.

• Use three-thread machines for light- to medium-weight

Overlock Stitch

• Overlock stitch is a three-, four-, or five-thread stitch

• Core serger stitch

• Stitches, trims, and overedges a seam in one operation

• Suitable for a wide variety of weights and types of fabric

Cover Stitch

• Cover stitch is a stretchable stitch mainly used for hemming knits

• One looper thread interlocks all the needle threads

• Does not use cutting blade

Chain Stitch

• Chain stitch does not overlock fabric edge

• Functions as a standard straight stitch when cutting knives are disengaged

• Top side looks like a straight stitch; underside resembles a chain

Objective

Summarize how to select thread and accessories for the serger.

Selecting Thread and Accessories

• Special serger threads are available on cones or tubes

• Advantages of serger threads include– fineness for delicate finishing and less bulk– strength– cross-winding for smooth top feeding

during high-speed sewing– larger quantities– economy

continued

• The cone adapter is used when the thread is on a cone

continued

• Place a spool cap (or unreeling disk) over the spool to provide even feeding of thread

continued

• Some slippery or specialty threads require the use of a thread net that helps prevent thread tangling

Objective

Demonstrate how to thread and operate the serger, adjusting thread

tensions and stitches as needed.

Threading the Serger

• Follow the directions in the owner’s manual provided with your serger

• Many machines are marked with a color-coded threading guide

• Thread the loopers and needles in the correct order; otherwise, the threads may break or stitches may not form properly

continued

Threading the Serger

• Always thread the loopers before the needles—the upper looper first

• Each time you change thread, you can tie threads from the new spools to the old threads to save time

Operating the Serger

continued

1. Set all tension dials to 5 (or as directed by the instruction manual)

2. Make sure the upper knife is lowered and in the cutting position

3. Lower the presser foot

4. Holding the thread chain or tails lightly behind the presser foot, serge a 2- to 3-inch thread chain; this is called chaining off

5. Place the fabric in front of the presser foot where the longer feed dogs will pull the fabric forward; do not push or pull the fabric

continued

6. At the end of the seam, continue sewing to form a 3-inch thread chain; do not raise the presser foot

continued© BERNINA of America, Inc.

7. Holding the fabric in one hand, pull the thread chain over the thread cutter on the presser foot shank

Adjusting Thread Tension

• Thread tensions may need to be adjusted for changes in fabrics, threads, stitch type

• A serger has a tension regulator for each thread

• To make tension adjustments, turn the dial by only half or one number; test sew and check the results

Adjusting Stitch Length and Width

• When fabrics, threads, or stitches are changed, the stitch length and width may need to be adjusted

• Use shorter, narrower stitches for lightweight fabrics

• Use longer, wider stitches for heavyweight fabrics

continued

• Length of the stitch is distance in millimeters (mm) between needle penetrations

• Width of the stitch is distance in millimeters between the needle thread and the trimmed edge of the fabric

continued

Stitch length

Stitch width

• To change the length of the stitch, use the stitch length adjustment dial

• To change the width of the stitch, some sergers have an adjustable dial; other sergers may require a change in the needle plate

Objective

Demonstrate proper use of a serger to construct a garment.

• A serger can be used three ways

Using a Serger in Clothing Construction

One-Step Method

• Seams are stitched, trimmed, and overcast all at one time by the serger

• Needle stitches on the seam line

• Knives automatically trim the correct amount

Edge Finish Method

• Garment’s raw seam edges are finished with the serger

• Garment is then stitched together with a sewing machine

continued

Edge Finish Method

• Recommended when fit is uncertain and for tailored garments sewn from wools, linens, and silk

• Using the continuous overcasting technique can save time

Narrow Double-Stitched Seam Method

• Creates a narrow double-stitched seam

• Ideal for light- to medium-weight woven fabrics or knit fabrics

• Use to reinforce areas of stress in a garment

continued

Narrow Double-Stitched Seam Method

1. Standard 5/8-inch seam is stitched using a sewing machine (two lines of stitching are shown to the right)

2. Seam allowances are serged together (with needle 1/8 inch from the first line of stitching) © Frank Zosky, Photographer

Mock Flat-Felled Seam

• Mock flat-felled seam uses both the conventional sewing machine and the serger

• Useful with denim and other heavyweight woven fabrics

continued

1. Stitch a standard seam with right sides together using the sewing machine

2. Using a serger, overlock the seam allowances together, trimming slightly

3. Press seam allowances toward one side

continued

4. Using a sewing machine, topstitch from the right side next to the seam line

5. Topstitch again 1/4 inch away from the first topstitching line through all layers

Think About It

Which two methods of using a serger in clothing construction require the use of a sewing machine as well?

Selecting a Pattern

• Many commercial patterns are designed specifically for serger sewing, but the serger can be used to sew a garment from any pattern to some degree

• Since sergers trim seam allowances as they sew, they are often used to sew loose, unfitted, knitted garments that do not require precise fitting

Transferring Pattern Markings

• Mark garment pattern pieces with a water-soluble or air-erasable marking pen or tailor’s chalk

• Don’t use notches because stitching with a serger removes them

Fit Before You Sew

• Be sure to fit before you sew

• Once a seam is stitched, the seam allowance is trimmed away

Construction Order

• Best way to assemble a serged garment is to use the flat method of construction

• With this method, you sew flat pieces rather than pieces in the round

• For example, you finish necklines, armholes, sleeves, and hems before serging underarm and side seams

List the steps you would take in constructing a T-shirt using this method.

Think About It

Objective

Demonstrate how to serge various types of seams.

Serging Seams

• Sewing seams with a serger is fast and easy

• The type of seam you choose depends on the garment design, type of fabric, and durability desired

• You need to know how to serge curves and corners and how to begin and end a seam

Overlock Seam

• Basic overlock seam is made using three or four threads

• Suitable for woven fabrics; ideal for knits because seams stretch

• Seam allowance is cut off as you sew so be sure of the fit before stitching

• To make this seam, place right sides of the fabric together and serge on the 5/8-inch seam line

Serged and Topstitched Seam

• Also called an exposed seam; stitches show on garment’s right side

• (See right) A four-thread overlock stitch gave the decorative edge; a sewing machine stitched pocket to the garment

Lapped Seam

• This seam gives a decorative effect on the outside of the garment; ideal for reversible garments or thick, loosely woven fabrics

1. Serge to the seam line on one side of the seam; on the other side, skim the edge of the seam with serging, leaving the seam allowance

continued

Lapped Seam

2. Lap trimmed seam edge over the other, aligning the 5/8-inch seam lines; use fusible web or fabric glue to hold layers in place

3. Using a conventional sewing machine, topstitch the seam together

• This seam offers a decorative effect and is used on knit sportswear

• Use for many fabric weights, but not with fabrics that ravel

• To make this seam, adjust your serger for flatlocking according to the serger manual

Flatlocked Seam

Serging Curves and Corners

• To accurately serge inside or outside curves, watch the knife rather than the needle

• When serging in a circle, serge around the circle and overlap the stitching for one inch, then serge off the fabric’s edge

Serging Corners

• For outside corners1. Stitch along one side of the fabric and off

the edge, leaving a chain

2. Stitch the next side, crossing and securing the first line of stitching

continued

Serging Corners

• For inside corners1. Mark the stitching line and cutting line

2. Clip corner to within 1/8 inch of stitching line

3. With the serger, stitch to the corner, stopping when the blade reaches corner cut marking

4. Pull the fabric toward you so the edge is straight, but a pleat forms to the left; continue stitching

Securing Seam Ends

• Serger stitches unravel if not secured

• If seams are crossed by other stitching, ends are secured, otherwise you need to secure the ends

• Ways to secure seam ends– Knot the thread chain– Bury the chain– Secure the threads while stitching– Use liquid seam sealant

continued

Securing Seam Ends

• To “bury the chain” 1. after stitching, pull chain

to smooth it out

2. thread it through a large-eyed needle or loop turner and run it under 1 to 2 inches of overlocked stitches

3. trim excess thread

Stabilizing Seams

• Garment seams stitched with a serger may require stabilizing

• Shoulder and neckline seams, front areas, and crotch seams are often stabilized

• One method is to use a row of straight stitching along the seam line

• Another method is to serge over twill tape, seam tape, or ribbon

• Serger stitches can be easily ripped out

• Use a seam ripper or sharp scissors

Removing Seams

Methods for Removing Seams

• Two-thread overlock—slide a seam ripper or scissors under stitches; pull out cut threads

• Three-thread overlock—cut loops every three or four stitches; pull the needle thread and the stitches will come undone

• Two-thread double chain stitch—cut needle thread at end of seam; pull looper thread and the stitches will come undone

Objective

Perform routine care of the serger.

Serger Care

• The serger will operate effectively with proper maintenance

• Regularly clean the machine and oil with sewing machine oil as specified by the manufacturer

• Use a soft brush to remove the lint from the knife area

continued

Serger Care

• Replace needles if stitches are not forming properly

• Replace blades when fabric is not cut smoothly

Review

1. Name the three operations sergers can perform in one step.

continued

join two layers of fabric to form a seam, trim away extra seam allowance width, and overcast (finish) the fabric edges

2. _____ in sergers replace the _____ in regular sewing machines that form the stitches.Loopers; bobbin

Review

3. Which serger stitch is used to create a very narrow hem?

continued

rolled edge stitch

4. Which serger stitch is considered the core stitch because it can stitch, trim, and overedge a seam in one operation?overlock stitch

Review

5. Name three advantages in using special serger thread when using a serger.(Name three) fineness for delicate finishing and less bulk, strength, cross-winding for smooth top feeding during high-speed sewing, larger quantities, economy

continued

Review

6. What is chaining off and when is it done?serging a 2- to 3-inch thread chain while holding the thread chain or tails lightly behind the presser foot; done before placing fabric in front of presser foot

7. Name the three methods of using a serger in clothing construction. one-step method, edge finish method, narrow double-stitched seam method

continued

Review

8. Why is it important to check the fit before you sew when using a serger?once a seam is stitched, the allowance is trimmed away, making it impossible to alter seams

continued

Review

9. Describe the flat method of construction and give an example.sew flat pieces rather than pieces in the round; example—finish necklines, armholes, sleeves, hems before serging underarm and side seams

continued

Review

10. Name four ways to secure seam ends.knot the thread chain, bury the chain, secure the threads while stitching, use liquid seam sealant

11. Name two ways to stabilize a serged seam.use a row of straight stitching along the seam line; serge over twill tape, seam tape, or ribbon

28 Serging Skills Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co.,...

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