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A peoples relationship to their heritage is the same as the relationship of a child to its
mother. John Henrik Clarke
Some ignoramuses claim that clinging to our past is useless, and giving way to technological
advancements is the only way to go. Id say a true sign of a nations progress is the ability of its
people to preserve their cultural heritagehistorical buildings included. After all, people are
judged not by the monuments they build, but by those they have destroyed.
READ: 22 Things We No Longer See in Manila
Gone are the days when Manila was known as theParis of Asia.Restoring the city to its former
glory sounds unrealistic, but not necessarily impossible. In the meantime, lets bask in the
beauty of Manilas old buildings that have completely vanished over the years.
1. Compaa General de Tabacos de Filipinas.
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La Compaa General de Tabacos de Filipinas 1881-1981. Autor Emili
Giral y Ravents
Compaa General de Tabacos de Filipinas, also known by its nickname Tabacalera, was
established on November 11, 1881a few months after the abolition of the tobacco monopoly in
the country. Headed by its founder, the Marquis of Comillas Antonio Lopez y Lopez, Tabacalera
was able to acquire several Spanish government-owned factories after winning a bid against
British and French firms.
In 1885, Tabacalera established its flagship company, La Flor de la Isabela, at No. 851 Calle
Isaac Peral (now United Nations Avenue). Named after the leaf variety found in the northern
Cagayan Valley, the factory had 42 departments where thousands of employees manufacturedthe companys signature blend of cigars and cigarettes.
Ten years later, Tabacalera opened its Manila office at No. 936 Calle Marques de Comillas (now
Romualdez Street), between Isaac Peral (now United Nations Avenue) and Estero de Balete. At
this point, the company was already known as one of the worlds largest tobacco factories
offering premium cigars.
A classic Manila landmark, the Tabacalera building played a pivotal role in Philippine history. In
fact, a room in the third floor of the old Tabacaleradubbed as Republicawas once frequented
by no less than President Manuel L. Quezon. The company also pioneered paper-making in1918 and donated to the Philippine government, through President Ramon Magsaysay, the rare
six volumes of Fr. Manuel Blancos Flora de Filipinas.
Sadly, the Tabacalera building was destroyed in 1945 during the Battle of Manila. Attempts to
revive its former glory were futile, leading to Tabacaleras businesses being sold off from 1950s
to the 1990s. Today, the Tabacalera Building at Romualdez Street serves as the headquarters of
Puregold, a local supermarket chain.
2. Bureau of Science Building.
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Bureau of Science Building in Manila (1905). Source: Popular Science
Monthly Volume 67.
Designed in 1901 by American architect Edgar Bourne, this Mission-style Neoclassic building was
touted as one of the best equipped laboratory buildings in the world.
During the American Occupation, the building served as a laboratory where minerals,
agricultural products, and fauna of the Philippines would be stored and studied.
Like other unfortunate Manila landmarks, the Bureau of Science Building was also destroyed
during WWII. The building laid in ruins along with several irreplaceable specimens that were
valuable to the scientific community. The location of the building is now occupied by the U.P.
Manila National Institutes of Health.
3. University Club Building/Apartments.
Luneta Hotel (left) and the University Club Building/Apartments (right)
in the 1930s. Source: Manila Nostalgia.
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Situated just beside the majestic Luneta Hotel, the pre-war University Club Buildingalso known
as University Club Apartmentswas a neoclassic structure built some time in the early 1930s.
Operated by the nearby Luneta Hotel, the University Club Building served as a residential
apartment/hotel, offering 44 rooms complete with private baths. It became home to many
American families as well as servicemen.
The building survived the war and later began welcoming tourists as the Shelborne Arms Hotel.It was renamed Orient or New Orient Hotel and continued its operations until the early 1990s
when its was demolished to give way to a skyscraper that is yet to be built.
4. The Jai Alai Building.
Manila Jai Alai Building in 1955.
Designed in the 1930s by American architect Welton Becket, the Manila Jai Alai building was
one of the finest examples of Art Deco architecture in Asia.
It once stood near the old Congress building along Taft Avenue and was highly-praised as one ofthe most beautiful Jai Alai buildings in the world, complete with a streamline modernefacade,
gaming rooms, a roof garden, bars, and an air-conditioned dining room called Sky Room.
Jai Alai games were officially launched in the building on October 17, 1940. This competitive
sport which was played by Manilas elites involves a ball being bounced off a walled space by the
players using hand-held slings called cesta.
Unlike other pre-war landmarks in Manila, the Jai Alai building was able to survive the wrath of
WWII, despite having served as a makeshift hospital of the U.S. Navy and later as headquarters
of the Japanese Kempeitaior military secret police.
After the war, the building was reconstructed and renamed The Roosevelt Club, a Red Cross
service centersaid to be the largest in the worldwhich served thousands of soldiers on a daily
basis.
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The Jai Alai building started to deteriorate in the 80s and was finally demolished in July of 2000
under the orders of then Manila Mayor Lito Atienza who said that the structure was a mere
reminder of gambling.
5. The Episcopal Cathedral of St. Mary and St. John.
The Episcopal Cathedral of St. Mary and St. John
The Episcopal Cathedral of St. Mary and St. John circa 1940s. Photo
Credit: John Tewell via Flickr.
The Episcopalian Church of St. Mary and St. John was the largest Protestant church in pre-war
Manila.
The construction of the cathedral was made possible by a cash gift worth $100,000 given by an
anonymous donor. Another $20,000 was donated by Mr. and Mrs. George C. Thomas of
Philadelphia. The stone and concrete church was erected on a property that was acquired by theBishop in 1903. In addition to the cathedral, a Bishops residence was also built.
The Episcopalian Church was completed in 1907, under the rectorship of the Rev. Murray
Bartlett. Sadly, the church became one of the casualties of WWII. Its location on Isaac Peral is
now occupied by the Manila Pavillion Hotel (formerly the Manila Hilton).
6. Manuel L. Quezons House in Roberts St., Pasay City.
Source: Manila Nostalgia Facebook Group.
The house in Roberts St., Pasay City was the Quezon familys main home, and also the first one
that President Quezon owned. He would later purchase another home in Marikina as a gift to his
wife, Aurora, and then a rest house in Baguio City.
The above-mentioned houses were all occupied by the Japanese who would blow them up when
the American forces arrived. The Quezon house in Gilmore was the only one that survived the
war since it wasnt taken by the Japanese.
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As shown in the photo above, the Roberts St. residence was a two-story house made of hard
wood. It had a strip of lawn behind and a U-shaped driveway in front. It was purchased by
Quezon in 1920 and in this house was born his second daughter, Nini. Prior to that, he and his
wife rented a house in Lamayan in Sta. Ana, Manila.
Although the house was destroyed by the war, its ruinsnow enclosed by high wallsstill remain.
7. Leonard Wood Hotel.
Source: William Gaddis Collection
Named after a famous American Governor General, the Leonard Wood Hotel was once located at
625 Dakota Street (now Adriatico Street) in Manila. It was owned by the Kneedler Realty which
also owned the Bay View Hotel.
Touted as Manilas most comfortable apartment hotel,this pre-war structure had a concrete
main building shaded by palms and tropical trees, well-lighted and ventilated dining area, and
rooms where the bachelor, maid, or man can have all the comforts of a home at a modestcost.
A vintage promotional material of Leonard Wood Hotel was featured in the William Gaddis
Collection. Born in 1920, Gaddis spent two years of his childhood life in China and the Philippines
when his father, an officer in the U.S. Navy, was assigned to command a ship in the Far East.
8. The Alfonso Zobel Mansion.
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Photo Credit: Isidra Reyes/Manila Nostalgia
Located along Dewey Boulevard (now Roxas Boulevard) cor. Calle Padre Faura in Ermita, this
French Renaissance-style mansion was designed by no less than Andrs Luna de San Pedro, son
of the great painter Juan Luna.
The mansion was built by Alfonso Zbel de Ayala Roxas together with his wife, Carmen Pfitz
Herrero. Alfonso is the son of Don Enrique Zbel y de Ayala and the father of Ayala Corporation
chairman emeritus Jaime Zbel de Ayala.
Although the house survived the war in 1945, it was sold by Don Enrique to recover the financial
loss brought by WWII. The post-war mansion was occupied by the French Embassy, then by the
Bank of Asia in the 1960s, and later by several antique shops.
The building was finally destroyed by the wrecking ball in the 1990s, giving way to the 1322
Golden Empire Tower which now stands on the property.
9. Fabrica de Cerveza de San Miguel.
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Source: Landmarks of Manila, 1571-1930
Todays San Miguel Corporation actually started in 1890 as Fabrica de Cerveza de San
Miguel, with Don Enrique Maria Barretto de Ycaza y Esteban as its founder. A single
proprietorship company under a Royal Grant from Spain, it was the first brewery in the country
as well as in Southeast Asia.
Don Enrique converted his home along Calle Aviles in the district of San Miguel into a brewery. It
served as the companys headquarters during the past century. As shown in the photo, the
brewery had a free-standing penthouse, an open shallow caida, and a balcony. It also had two
facilitiesone for the ice production and another for beer production.
In 1893, the company was incorporated with Don Pedro P. Roxas appointed as manager. From
then on, the companys product began to outsell other important beers in the country. The San
Miguel Beer was so loved by its customers that in 1895, it won its first award at the Exposicion
Regional de Filipinas as product of highest quality.
The turn of the twentieth century saw the companys further expansion. It became a corporation
in 1913 and a year later, began exporting its product to countries as far as Guam, Shanghai, and
Hong Kong. In 1930, San Miguel also started producing its own soft drinks products. A few
decades later, the San Miguel Corporation was finally born.
Today, San Miguel Beer remains as the companys flagship product. Their corporate head office,
on the other hand, is now located at 40 San Miguel Avenue, Mandaluyong City.
10. The Insular Life Building at Plaza Moraga.
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Source: Landmarks of Manila, 1571-1930
In 1930, a seven-story skyscraper in Plaza Moraga, Binondo became the third home of Insular
Life, the first Filipino life insurance company in the Philippines. Prior to that, the company was
headquartered in a two-room office at the Lack and Davies Building on Echague Street (now C.
Palanca Sr.), and then in bigger offices at the Kneedler Building in Santa Cruz.
The Insurance Life Building was the tallest structure in pre-war Manila, back when Binondo was
considered as the central business district. The towering building was made even more
memorable by the eagle figure situated on its top.
It stood on a lot previously occupied by a Chinese cemetery, a fact that gave birth to severalghost stories. Despite its creepy past, the prominent structure was awarded for being the best
office and commercial building of that era.
It was also in this building that the company reached several milestones. They established the
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Insular Life Underwriters Associationa first in the countryin 1931 and the following year,
then Governor General Theodore Roosevelt, Jr. praised the company for being agreat
stabilizing influencein the Philippines.
Although the company lost 92% of its bank deposits during the war, it quickly recovered and
even enjoyed steady growth from the 1950s up to the 1970s. The company previously moved in
a 16-story structure in Makati, but is now headquartered at the Insular Life Corporate Center in
Filinvest Corporate City, Alabang, Muntinlupa City.
11. Y.M.C.A. Building.
Source: Beyond Forgetting via Flickr.
During its heyday, the Y.M.C.A. Building in Manila was the place to see and be seen. It was a
social club for the rich where one could either learn how to swim or invite his foreign friends to
stay. However, the purpose of this building was much deeper than that.
The Y.M.C.A. (Young Mens Christian Association) was the brainchild of Dr. John R. Moll who
envisioned it in 1907 as an association that would serve young American and European men. In
the Philippines, the organization started on November 10, 1911 and soon launched a recreation
program for the benefit of the Filipino youth. Some prominent public servants also collaborated
with the organization, including Sen. Gil Puyat and Justice Jose Abad Santos among others.
The Y.M.C.A. Building once stood on a 35, 000 sq. m. land originally bounded by Arroceros, San
Marcelino, and Concepcion Streets in Ermita. Two of the buildings (see photo above) were
destroyed during the war, while those that had been partially razed served as quarters for
wounded soldiers and Death March prisoners. The land is now occupied by SM Manila, just
behind the Manila City Hall.
12. The Crystal Arcade.
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Source: Manila Nostalgia/Lou Gopal
Another architectural masterpiece of Andres Luna de San Pedro, The Crystal Arcade in Escolta
was inaugurated on June 1, 1932. It housed the Manila Stock Exchange as well as the Marina
Raes Candies. People visited this place both for the prestige and its air-conditioning which was
a first in the country.
With its fine art deco lines, the Crystal Arcade was arguably the most modern pre-war building
in the country. In fact, it was the first shopping mall in Manila to feature a walkway leading to
the glass-walled shops on the first floor. The Crystal Arcade was also the place wherethe Bureau of Commerce (and Industry) held in 1932 the first ever exposition of products made
in the Philippines.
Sadly, the building was one of the casualties of WWII. It was reconstructed but it all went
downhill from there. Eventually, the Crystal Arcade was demolished in 1966 and replaced by
Philippine National Bank head office.
13. Hotel de Oriente.
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Hotel de Oriente in 1902. Source: Stanford University Libraries
Hotel de Oriente in Binondo was famous for two reasons: It was considered as the first luxury
hotel in Manila and no less than our national hero, Jose Rizal, stayed in Room 22 at this hotel
when he arrived in the Philippines from Hong Kong on June 26, 1892.
Built in 1889 by Don Manuel Perez Marquet, Hotel de Oriente stood on a lot previously occupied
by Fabrica de Puros. It was designed by a Spanish architect named Juan Jose Huervas y
Arizmendi and had a total of three floors with 83 rooms, complete with ceiling fans and
electricity.
The location of Hotel de Oriente at Plaza Calderon de la Barca (now Plaza Lorenzo Ruiz) was
also strategic as it stood next to La Insular Cigar and Cigarette Factory, several Chinese retail
businesses as well as Intramuros and Escolta.
Before it was destroyed by the war, Hotel de Oriente served as the office of the Philippine
Constabulary. It later became the home of American Circulating Library, Official Gazette, and
the Commercial Museum. The lot where the hotel once stood is now occupied by Metrobank.
14. La Insular Cigar and Cigarette Factory.
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Photo Credit: Juvy Pastores via Flickr
La Insular was one of the companies established after the abolition of the tobacco monopoly in
the Philippines. Located in Binondo right next to Hotel de Oriente, the factory easily stood out
due to its Neo-Mudjar style of architecture.
Just like the neighboring structure, La Insulars factory was also designed by Juan Jose Huervas
y Arizmendi, then municipal architect of Manila. The factory had tall archways and projecting
balconiesadorned with intricate lampposts.
Established in 1883 by Don Joaqun Santamarina and Don Luis Elizalde, La Insular slowlyclimbed to prominence, with most of its products being exported to countries as far as Spain and
England. In fact, one of its loyal customers was no less than King Alfonso XIII of Spain to whom
a La Insular cigar was named after.
Both the factory and Hotel de Oriente were engulfed by fire during the Liberation of Manila in
1944. Its former location is now occupied by Metrobank Binondo.
15. Avenue Theater.
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Via theurbanhistorian.tumblr.com
Built in Art Deco style, the Avenue Theater in Rizal Avenue (Avenida) was once the venue
for vaudeville acts and American movie premieres during the 1930s and 1940s. It was a
masterpiece of Juan Nakpil who became the National Artist for Architecture.
The theater had 1,000 seating capacity and a grand lobby treated with a marble finish flooring.
Aside from the theater, the building also had an office and hotel space. After the war, the
Avenue Theater was renovated and had since become the venue for several live performances.
Unfortunately, the theater closed in 1997 and was eventually demolished in 2006 to make wayfor a parking lot. The site is now occupied by Padis Point.
16. Rizal Theater.
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Photo Credit: Jay Ramos/Jerms Estrada via Flickr
Another structure designed by National Artist Juan Nakpil, the Rizal Theater in Makati was
originally intended as part of the Rizal Memorial Cultural Complex. The latter was set to be
completed on June 19, 1961 but lack of funds got in the way of its construction.
The Rizal Theater was a film and performance venue with its balcony, loge, and orchestra
sections forming one ascending curve. It had Rizals signature on its fly tower and also housed a
restaurant and coffee shop called Leilas.
The theater had become the favorite destination of residents from exclusive subdivisions for
over three decades before it was demolished towards the end of the 20th century. The site is
now occupied by the five-star Makati Shang-ri La Hotel.
17. The original Lyric Theater.
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Source: Lou Gopal/Manila Nostalgia
As shown in this photo, the Lyric Theater of the 1920s had a unique Moorish design, setting it
apart from its rival Capitol Theater which stood two buildings away. With 1,600 seating capacity,
the Lyric Theater was designed by National Artist Pablo Antonio, the same architect behind
Galaxy, Ideal, Life, and Scala theaters.
According to Jos Victor Torres Manila: Studies in Urban Cultures and Traditions, the original
Lyric Theater was purchased by the Tuason family from the Peoples Bank and Trust Company in1939. It was previously owned by Frank Goulette whose death in 1933 led the Eastern Theatrical
Inc. to take over the rights.
The pre-war Lyric Theater was home to many firsts in Philippine cinema. It was the venue for
the premiere of several legendary Filipino films such as Tia Juana, the only movie shown in
Manila in 1943 during Japanese Occupation, and Eduardo de Castros Zamboanga, described
by Hollywood director Frank Capra as the most exciting and beautiful picture of native life I
have ever seen.
It was also in Lyric Theater where Disneys first full-length animated feature,Snow White andthe Seven Dwarfs, premiered on May 1, 1938. The countrys first sound film, Jose
Nepomucenos Punyal na Guinto(Golden Dagger) also premiered at Lyric on March 9, 1933.
Some sources, however, claim that Ang Aswangalso released in Lyric Theaterwas the
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countrys first talkie (it premiered on January 1,1933).
The original Lyric Theater was remodeled twice (1927 and 1937) before it was finally destroyed
during the Liberation of Manila in 1945.
18. The Magallanes Theater.
Source: Philippine , History , and Architecture Facebook Page
Once a popular alternative to the Rizal Theater, this landmark was a venue for movie premieres
and also housed the Pancake House restaurant from the 1970s up to the 1980s.
The theaterdesigned by Carlos Arguelleswas located at the corner of EDSA at the Magallanes
Interchange. It had a modernist blocky-brutalist massing reminiscent of the CCP. In contrast,
the Rizal Theater had an international style massing that was popular during the 50s.
Just like other unfortunate landmarks in Manila, the Magallanes Theater also met the wrecking
ball in the early 1990s.
19. The Insular Ice Plant and Cold Storage.
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Photo Credit: John Tewell via Flickr
In 1902, architect Edgar K. Bourne was tasked by the U.S. government to design one of the first
permanent buildings built by the Americans in their new colony: The Insular Ice Plant and Cold
Storage.
The brick structure was built at the southern foot of the Puente de Colgante. It had a Mission
Revivalist style, complete with ten-story-high smoke stack that became a landmark in Manila at
that time. The construction cost the American government an astounding $1,000,000
or P2,000,000.
The Insular Ice Plant and Cold Storage was built by the U.S. to supply American troops as well
as the general public with ice, distilled water, and cold storage.
Heavily damaged by the war, the building was finally demolished in the late 1970s or early
1980s to make way to the construction of the Light Rail Transit (LRT Line 1).
20. La Germinal Cigar and Cigarette Factory.
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The Harry Withfield Harnish Photo Collection
The Germinal Cigar Factory once stood at Calle Marques de Comillas in San Miguel, Manila, next
to the Ayala Bridge. During its heyday, the company was considered thelargest establishment
of its kind.
According to an article published in the Manila Times, the Germinal Cigar Factory had 35
cigarette machines on its second floor, each of which only required a single employee to
operate. To keep up with the voluminous orders coming from the Philippines as well as Japan,
China, and Australia, the factory had to produce as much as 3,000,000 cigarettes and 200,000
cigars a day.
The company, which was also one of the major sponsors of the first Manila Carnival, had Dr.
Ariston Bautista y Lin as its president. Lin also served as the head of the Philippine Medical
Society as well as executive of several charitable organizations in the county.
Alcazaren, P. (2005). Manila landmarks of the 30s. [online] philSTAR.com. Available at:
http://goo.gl/wBjWgV [Accessed 14 Oct. 2014].
Alcazaren, P. (2011). Maranaw memories. [online] philSTAR.com. Available at: http://goo.gl
/ob4CQ4 [Accessed 16 Oct. 2014].
Arquitectura Manila, (2014).A.M. Shorts: Alfonso Zbel and Carmen Pfitz Residence. [online]
Available at: http://goo.gl/0RRG5U [Accessed 14 Oct. 2014].
Arquitectura Manila, (n.d.). Buildings. [online] Available at: http://goo.gl/szZp4n [Accessed 16
Oct. 2014].
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Bautista, A. (n.d.). History of Philippine Cinema. [online] National Commission for Culture and
the Arts. Available at: http://goo.gl/ytRBLq [Accessed 16 Oct. 2014].
De la Torre, V. (1981). Landmarks of Manila, 1571-1930. 1st ed. Makati: Filipinas Foundation,
Inc.
de Manila, Q. (1961). Nonong Quezons life with father. Philippines Free Press. [online]
Available at: http://goo.gl/1zReeU [Accessed 14 Oct. 2014].
Gopal, L. (2012). The Jai Alai Building, a beautiful example of Art Deco in Asia.. [online] Manila
Nostalgia. Available at: http://goo.gl/kHsMZU [Accessed 14 Oct. 2014].
Handbooks on the Missions of the Episcopal Church. (1923). 1st ed. New York: National Council
of the Protestant Episcopal Church Department of Missions.
Hedman, E. and Sidel, J. (2005). Philippine Politics and Society in the Twentieth Century:
Colonial Legacies, Post-Colonial Trajectories. 1st ed. Routledge.
Ingles, R. (2008). 1908: The Way it Really was : Historical Journal for the UP Centennial,1908-2008. 1st ed. UP Press.
Lo, R. (2014). The many firsts in Phl cinema. [online] philSTAR.com. Available at: http://goo.gl
/bMEVOc [Accessed 16 Oct. 2014].
Sahakian, M. (2014). Keeping Cool in Southeast Asia: Energy Consumption and Urban
Air-Conditioning. 1st ed. Palgrave Macmillan.
Sison, N. (2011). Tabacalera: 130 years of cigars and Philippine history. [online] philSTAR.com.
Available at: http://goo.gl/WjQyTx [Accessed 14 Oct. 2014].
Worcester, D. (1914). The Philippines: Past and Present (Volume 1). 1st ed. New York: The
MacMillan Company.
About the Author:Luisito E. Batongbakal Jr. is the founder and editor-in-chief of
FilipiKnow. For comments on this article, please contact him on Facebook.
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